Please help! I've done something to my paint and I cannot correct it.

Holmes870 · 03-02-2021, 09:30 PM

I need help. I've done something to my paint, and I can't correct it.

On Saturday I removed the factory truck lip with the intention of installing a CF replacement. Of course, a ton of adhesive was left behind. Luckily, I had an eraser wheel, attached to a corded drill and went to town removing the left over adhesive. All left over was removed, however, in one area, it appears the eraser has "stained" my paint!

I've tried everything within arms reach to remove this. Water, alcohol, WD-40, lightly used a magic eraser, paint thinner and quick detailer. Nothing has had any effect.

I brought it to a detailer today, and they tried an unknown cutting compound, and a hand polish. This did nothing. They recommended I try a stage two cut polish on the area, with a 70% chance of it removing. If not, they want to wet sand.

Unfortunately, due to the location of the "stain", they are telling me I will need to remove my CF lip. I'd really prefer not to do this, and would like to seek advice from the experts here on how I can do this myself.

I'm not taking business away from the company. My car is still booked to go for a stage one paint correction and ceramic coating in two weeks time. I'd just like to rectify this issue prior to the appointment, and prevent having to remove my very stuck on new spoiler.

Pictures below,

Regards.

(Note, it is quite difficult to capture on camera, however, these marks are almost identical in colour to the eraser wheel.)

View post on imgur.com

Driver87 · 03-02-2021, 09:47 PM

It's hard to tell from the pictures, but I'm going with you burnt through the clear coat. This can happen if you get it too hot with the eraser wheel or any other item creating friction.

A compound may improve it, but I'm guessing it'll need to be wet sanded, or repainted.

I took my spoiler off with this exact method a few months back. I kept reminding myself to make several passes if needed, as to not burn through. Although, I can see this would be easy to do.

omasou · 03-02-2021, 09:58 PM

If light compounding didn't remove it, I agree with Driver87.

Bring it to a body shop they'll tell you what's what in 2 seconds

TopJimmy · 03-02-2021, 10:14 PM

If you ran the eraser wheel on anything other than low speed and/or stayed in one spot too long you probably burned some of your clear coat. That will hopefully come out with a wet sanding, and the CF would need to be dental-flossed off (and the new goop removed). Sorry bud...

I also suggest to buy the 3M brand adhesive eraser wheel. It's a softer gum rubber compound that seems more gentle on paint.

F87source · 03-03-2021, 01:48 AM

Yup I agree with the others, you have burned through your clear coat. I used one of those wheels as well when I installed my lip, but before doing so I tested it on a bike to ensure it wouldn't damage the paint (despite the product saying paint safe). Well if you held it in the same spot long enough it would eat right through the clear coat and if you held it even longer it would go through the paint as well. So when I did this I only lightly went over the areas covered with adhesive just to get the majority of it off. Then I hand picked the remaining adhesive off, with the help of goo gone.

Altra · 03-03-2021, 03:50 PM

Dang, wish I knew about this eraser wheel...I removed the entire strip of sticky stuff with my thumbs...FUNNEST thing ever...thumbs weren't bleeding at all...

F87source · 03-03-2021, 03:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Altra

Dang, wish I knew about this eraser wheel...I removed the entire strip of sticky stuff with my thumbs...FUNNEST thing ever...thumbs weren't bleeding at all...

Lol I was going to do the same, but since it was winter the adhesive on my m2 was solid so my thumbs were dying. So I had to figure out an alternate solution.

Also round eraser wheels imo are better than the ones with groves or slots. Because when it hits the rough adhesive it doesn't bounce and skip that way you get better control. I also barely wore any material off of my eraser wheel so that was nice.

TopJimmy · 03-03-2021, 05:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Altra

Dang, wish I knew about this eraser wheel...I removed the entire strip of sticky stuff with my thumbs...FUNNEST thing ever...thumbs weren't bleeding at all...

You crack me up! The thumb pain!!! I got about 8 inches of the goo tape off and couldn't take it any more. I was like...sh!t, what do I do now? I emailed Tommy L Garage and he sent the link to the 3M wheel and also his side-skirt video showing how to use it. Awesome dude! Worked like magic.

detroitm2 · 03-03-2021, 07:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by F87source

Quote:

Originally Posted by Altra

Dang, wish I knew about this eraser wheel...I removed the entire strip of sticky stuff with my thumbs...FUNNEST thing ever...thumbs weren't bleeding at all...

Lol I was going to do the same, but since it was winter the adhesive on my m2 was solid so my thumbs were dying. So I had to figure out an alternate solution.

Also round eraser wheels imo are better than the ones with groves or slots. Because when it hits the rough adhesive it doesn't bounce and skip that way you get better control. I also barely wore any material off of my eraser wheel so that was nice.

Heat gun works well

F87source · 03-03-2021, 07:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by detroitm2

Heat gun works well

Used it and it didn't help. That's why I had to get the wheel.

detroitm2 · 03-03-2021, 10:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by F87source

Quote:

Originally Posted by detroitm2

Heat gun works well

Used it and it didn't help. That's why I had to get the wheel.

Weird. Mine came right off with some heat and a little elbow grease. Though I got most of it off with some fishing line when I removed the oem spoiler.

F87source · 03-03-2021, 10:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by detroitm2

Weird. Mine came right off with some heat and a little elbow grease. Though I got most of it off with some fishing line when I removed the oem spoiler.

Yeah, I used alot of heat and it didn't help, then goo gone and it didn't help. But that's probably because the material was super thick as I pulled upwards with the fishing line to try and avoid getting too close to the paint, and what was left was a really thick amount of adhesive.

Holmes870 · 03-04-2021, 04:30 PM

Thanks guys! Not the news I wanted to hear, but good info!

M2forme · 03-11-2021, 05:11 PM

Any bodyshop will be able to tell you in a heartbeat if your clear is salvageable or not. I don't like those eraser wheels, especially that style. 3m makes a more mild wheel but they also make liquid adhesive remover that works well. On such a small area, I would opt for the liquid remover and maybe a plastic razor blade to agitate. When you get an ugly wheel like that going in one direction with speed it's a recipe for disaster.

F87source · 03-11-2021, 05:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by M2forme

Any bodyshop will be able to tell you in a heartbeat if your clear is salvageable or not. I don't like those eraser wheels, especially that style. 3m makes a more mild wheel but they also make liquid adhesive remover that works well. On such a small area, I would opt for the liquid remover and maybe a plastic razor blade to agitate. When you get an ugly wheel like that going in one direction with speed it's a recipe for disaster.

I found the adhesive to be so thick and strong a plastic blade didn't cut it, adhesive remover didn't do anything, only the wheel helped and with rapid quick applications it was fine.

M2forme · 03-12-2021, 05:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by F87source

Quote:

Originally Posted by M2forme

Any bodyshop will be able to tell you in a heartbeat if your clear is salvageable or not. I don't like those eraser wheels, especially that style. 3m makes a more mild wheel but they also make liquid adhesive remover that works well. On such a small area, I would opt for the liquid remover and maybe a plastic razor blade to agitate. When you get an ugly wheel like that going in one direction with speed it's a recipe for disaster.

I found the adhesive to be so thick and strong a plastic blade didn't cut it, adhesive remover didn't do anything, only the wheel helped and with rapid quick applications it was fine.

All spoilers and emblems pretty much use the exact same 3m gray foam tape. The trick is to break down the foam by allowing the adhesive remover to dwell for a bit, agitate and repeat. I am not saying the wheel is bad when used correctly but it can be done by hand with relative ease.

243Racing · 03-12-2021, 05:16 PM

F the glue they use on the OEM trunk lip.

F it.

omasou · 03-12-2021, 08:46 PM

I'm about to remove my spoiler to install the CF spoiler. I was this close to buying a wheel b/c of the way people raved about it but I knew what happened to the OP would happen to me.

I'll stick w/my tried and true solution, https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-...hesive+Remover

In liquid or spray.

[IMG]https://www.chandleryoutlet.com/cont...-each_550.jpeg[/IMG]

[IMG]https://sep.yimg.com/ca/I/autogeek_2268_35186153[/IMG]

F87source · 03-12-2021, 09:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by omasou

I'm about to remove my spoiler to install the CF spoiler. I was this close to buying a wheel b/c of the way people raved about it but I knew what happened to the OP would happen to me.

I'll stick w/my tried and true solution, https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-...hesive+Remover

In liquid or spray.

The wheel is fine as long as you don't press it down and hold it there for long periods of time. It literally took maybe 5 seconds of extreme pressure before it are through my bikes clear coat.

03-02-2021, 09:30 PM	#1
Holmes870 Private First Class 91 Rep 99 Posts Drives: F80 M3 Join Date: Oct 2020 Location: Vancouver Island iTrader: (0)	Please help! I've done something to my paint and I cannot correct it. I need help. I've done something to my paint, and I can't correct it. On Saturday I removed the factory truck lip with the intention of installing a CF replacement. Of course, a ton of adhesive was left behind. Luckily, I had an eraser wheel, attached to a corded drill and went to town removing the left over adhesive. All left over was removed, however, in one area, it appears the eraser has "stained" my paint! I've tried everything within arms reach to remove this. Water, alcohol, WD-40, lightly used a magic eraser, paint thinner and quick detailer. Nothing has had any effect. I brought it to a detailer today, and they tried an unknown cutting compound, and a hand polish. This did nothing. They recommended I try a stage two cut polish on the area, with a 70% chance of it removing. If not, they want to wet sand. Unfortunately, due to the location of the "stain", they are telling me I will need to remove my CF lip. I'd really prefer not to do this, and would like to seek advice from the experts here on how I can do this myself. I'm not taking business away from the company. My car is still booked to go for a stage one paint correction and ceramic coating in two weeks time. I'd just like to rectify this issue prior to the appointment, and prevent having to remove my very stuck on new spoiler. Pictures below, Regards. (Note, it is quite difficult to capture on camera, however, these marks are almost identical in colour to the eraser wheel.) View post on imgur.com
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03-02-2021, 09:47 PM	#2
Driver87 Private First Class 253 Rep 179 Posts Drives: M2CS Join Date: Apr 2019 Location: Houston TX iTrader: (0)	It's hard to tell from the pictures, but I'm going with you burnt through the clear coat. This can happen if you get it too hot with the eraser wheel or any other item creating friction. A compound may improve it, but I'm guessing it'll need to be wet sanded, or repainted. I took my spoiler off with this exact method a few months back. I kept reminding myself to make several passes if needed, as to not burn through. Although, I can see this would be easy to do. __________________ -2020 M2Cs -2020 GLS450
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03-02-2021, 09:58 PM	#3
omasou Brigadier General 2087 Rep 3,003 Posts Drives: BMWs Join Date: Apr 2016 Location: US iTrader: (4) Garage List 2023 BMW S1000RR [0.50] 2022 BMW F900XR [3.00] 2022 BMW X6 40i [0.50] 2020 BMW M2C [9.50]	Please help! I've done something to my paint and I cannot correct it. If light compounding didn't remove it, I agree with Driver87. Bring it to a body shop they'll tell you what's what in 2 seconds
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03-02-2021, 10:14 PM	#4
TopJimmy Major General 5450 Rep 5,143 Posts Drives: 2023 M3 Comp xDrive Join Date: Jul 2019 Location: Chester County, PA iTrader: (5)	If you ran the eraser wheel on anything other than low speed and/or stayed in one spot too long you probably burned some of your clear coat. That will hopefully come out with a wet sanding, and the CF would need to be dental-flossed off (and the new goop removed). Sorry bud... I also suggest to buy the 3M brand adhesive eraser wheel. It's a softer gum rubber compound that seems more gentle on paint. __________________ '18 F80 Base 6MT \| '19 F82 Exec DCT \| '18 F82 Comp Exec DCT \| '23 G80cx
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03-03-2021, 01:48 AM	#5
F87source Major General 7240 Rep 7,421 Posts Drives: Bmw M2 Join Date: Aug 2018 Location: . iTrader: (1)	Yup I agree with the others, you have burned through your clear coat. I used one of those wheels as well when I installed my lip, but before doing so I tested it on a bike to ensure it wouldn't damage the paint (despite the product saying paint safe). Well if you held it in the same spot long enough it would eat right through the clear coat and if you held it even longer it would go through the paint as well. So when I did this I only lightly went over the areas covered with adhesive just to get the majority of it off. Then I hand picked the remaining adhesive off, with the help of goo gone. __________________ Click on the link below to see a compiled list of every review I have ever written: https://f87.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...2#post30368242
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03-03-2021, 03:50 PM	#6
Altra First Lieutenant 266 Rep 307 Posts Drives: 2016 AW M2 Join Date: Jun 2018 Location: Orange County iTrader: (0)	Dang, wish I knew about this eraser wheel...I removed the entire strip of sticky stuff with my thumbs...FUNNEST thing ever...thumbs weren't bleeding at all...
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03-04-2021, 04:30 PM	#13
Holmes870 Private First Class 91 Rep 99 Posts Drives: F80 M3 Join Date: Oct 2020 Location: Vancouver Island iTrader: (0)	Thanks guys! Not the news I wanted to hear, but good info!
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03-11-2021, 05:11 PM	#14
M2forme Private 84 Rep 74 Posts Drives: '21 M2 Competition Join Date: Mar 2021 Location: United States iTrader: (0)	Any bodyshop will be able to tell you in a heartbeat if your clear is salvageable or not. I don't like those eraser wheels, especially that style. 3m makes a more mild wheel but they also make liquid adhesive remover that works well. On such a small area, I would opt for the liquid remover and maybe a plastic razor blade to agitate. When you get an ugly wheel like that going in one direction with speed it's a recipe for disaster.
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03-12-2021, 05:16 PM	#17
243Racing Banned 1448 Rep 1,414 Posts Drives: M2 Join Date: Jul 2019 Location: KC iTrader: (0)	F the glue they use on the OEM trunk lip. F it.
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03-12-2021, 08:46 PM	#18
omasou Brigadier General 2087 Rep 3,003 Posts Drives: BMWs Join Date: Apr 2016 Location: US iTrader: (4) Garage List 2023 BMW S1000RR [0.50] 2022 BMW F900XR [3.00] 2022 BMW X6 40i [0.50] 2020 BMW M2C [9.50]	I'm about to remove my spoiler to install the CF spoiler. I was this close to buying a wheel b/c of the way people raved about it but I knew what happened to the OP would happen to me. I'll stick w/my tried and true solution, https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-...hesive+Remover In liquid or spray. [IMG]https://www.chandleryoutlet.com/cont...-each_550.jpeg[/IMG] [IMG]https://sep.yimg.com/ca/I/autogeek_2268_35186153[/IMG]
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