06-19-2021, 01:04 PM | #1 |
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Help! Rough idle-->limp mode-->now car undrivable days after stage 2+ MHD?!
Facing the music and putting this on here though feel foolish as likely tune related but as yet don't know. I'm stuck on holiday, please help if you can.
Have been MHD 2+ from last Monday. Today drove three hrs uneventfully. Stopped did some shopping and started car, ROUGH idle. Turned car off immediately. Tried again, same thing. Drive train error and the limp mode warning on idrive. Flashed to stage 0 MHD and no dice. Luckily 6mins from destination so limped there with a perplexed cayenne behind my 35mph sorry ass! Waiting for breakdown, hoping to god it's a strained coil pack that has gone. Car just done 24,000 miles today. The DME codes said accelerator pedal electrical short as well as a vanos voltage reading being too low I think. Thoughts welcome, kind of my worst nightmare as debated going stage 2+ for months but got no face to save and if it helps others then it's been worth it. I have really been enjoying the extra power in normal and spirited driving, it suits the car well, though there is a lag hole at start of 2nd that is pretty gaping. Stock tune with FBO far more responsive and in some ways felt faster because of it. When car is fixed I feel I'll have to go back to stock, tried to get something for free and it didn't work out! The anti-tuners were right from their perspective on this one! I'll update with developments. Last edited by 3t3p; 06-19-2021 at 05:19 PM.. |
06-19-2021, 04:15 PM | #2 |
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Breakdown has been out (RAC). Their diagnostics picked up accelerator pedal issue also, on depressing the pedal fully signal intensity was not reaching 100%, got to 80-86% or so.
He saw no vanos error codes pertaining to low voltage like I did. He said HPFP was low pressure. I flashed to actual stock map (long write) and made no difference. Now car tries to turn over but doesn't sustain ignition and cuts out. At this point we're scratching our heads and he goes 'you hadn't just filled up had you?'. Yes, we had filled up half a tank. We filled up, collected prepicked food, then parked up. Went inside the store 20-25 mins. That's when we started up with rough idle and limp mode. Got to our destination after five minutes driving. Now the car doesn't start and maintain ignition. Like the bad fuel has had a full chance to fully mix? The petrol is Tesco Momentum 99RON, the most per liter I've seen it anywhere of late, hes from the area and says jokingly everyone is cheap in these parts. So we start wondering how long it could have been there to really make a difference...or is it actually contaminated or a total red herring. Don't know, total nightmare as I'm three hours from a garage I know/trust. First codes after first rough idles. Last edited by 3t3p; 06-19-2021 at 05:09 PM.. |
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06-19-2021, 09:14 PM | #3 |
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https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1757735
here is a thread with the similar issue. I would try doing that, removed the plug to the servomotor, clear codes, and turn ignition on to see if just the servomotor code pops up. might just be the servomotor. update us when you figure it out! |
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06-20-2021, 09:46 AM | #4 |
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Thanks but that's way beyond me, maybe useful for a garage though.
I'm marooned on holiday, have three nights left, a real sorry affair. Please help where possible folks! Went to petrol station today no reports of bad fuel. |
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06-20-2021, 10:05 AM | #5 | |
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Last one was a M2 running a b58tu HPFP. HPFP was running low in pressure, thought the pump was damaged but it was badly contaminated fuel. Could be something to look into. |
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06-20-2021, 11:20 AM | #6 |
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Can an average garage comment on fuel without sending it off for mass spectrometry or other analysis.
How bad would this fuel have to be to not let the car start?! Is water immiscible with petrol and therefore visible? Just thinking of the obvious. |
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06-20-2021, 12:11 PM | #7 |
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Might not help you at all but after I installed FTP charge, boost, intercooler, intake piping I was over boosting. Great power and popping/banging but it was almost dying when I would slow to a stop after pulls. I reset throttle adaptations and all is well.
Reason I mention this is you aren't getting everything out of your accelerator pedal so worth a shot?? Procedure is easy, many threads on it here. Good luck! Sorry to hear of your troubles. |
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06-20-2021, 12:42 PM | #8 |
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Yep they are immiscible, petrol will sit on top of water. You'll need to get a sample to see if this is your issue.
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06-20-2021, 12:43 PM | #9 | |
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06-20-2021, 02:10 PM | #10 |
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I immediately tried clearing codes they don’t go but are there permanently atm
Resetting adaptations do you mean with MHD over OBD or the manual method? How can the car be bricked from an adaptation issue? Which adaptations should I reset some or all? Last edited by 3t3p; 06-20-2021 at 02:31 PM.. |
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06-20-2021, 09:34 PM | #11 | |
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Please, enjoy your vacation, and I’ll do my best to see if I can find out more. |
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06-21-2021, 02:03 AM | #13 |
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Have you tried disconnecting battery -ve terminal for circa 1hour then re-connect and checking then clearing any error codes ?
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Current '22 X3M LCI.. Last edited by Bee Pee; 06-21-2021 at 07:55 AM.. |
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06-21-2021, 02:39 AM | #14 |
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My regular garage says to unplug intake manifold sensor and see if ignition can be achieved. Known to have happened on a B58 they've worked on.
Got engine cover off but not sure which one is intake manifold sensor? He said it should be in top right area. Struggling to find pics. BP Not tried battery disconnect, I only have a Torx 45 and a trim removal tool with me as was going to swap seat control modules over while away! Last edited by 3t3p; 06-21-2021 at 03:42 AM.. |
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06-21-2021, 07:23 AM | #15 |
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Read up on it last night - it honestly sounds like a stuck* Vanos solenoid. Try removing them and cleaning them, then switching them. Unless it’s really bad, it should work.
Last edited by AmuroRay; 06-21-2021 at 09:30 AM.. |
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06-21-2021, 07:55 AM | #16 |
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Thanks man and that doesn't sound too bad if that's true?
I unplugged this, which I hope/think is valvetronic connector and ran DME code search again and got the following: Put servotronic connector back then unplugged this which I hope is manifold pressure sensor and searched codes again and got this: Regardless car is now being recovered three hrs home and continuing onward journey in a hire car. Last edited by 3t3p; 06-21-2021 at 08:02 AM.. |
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06-21-2021, 09:36 AM | #17 |
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I believe that the Vanos solenoids (not valvetronic) are at the front of the motor and held in by bolts - take them out, clean them with WD40 and put them back in
This was the most likely culprit.
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06-21-2021, 03:23 PM | #18 |
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Something that just needs cleaning for the engine to run normally again, can such a part be trusted? Why is it THAT clogged on a 24kmi car too?
Thanks but as above all I have is T45 torx, a flathead and a trim removal tool! It's been towed away now on a flatbed, going to take 3-4 days to go three hrs drive away FML. |
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06-21-2021, 07:44 PM | #19 | |
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From this post it looks like that same exact problem as the thread i posted. I bet it the valvetronic servomotor! when you unplugged it and ran the codes only the servomotor codes popped up. but when you plugged it back in the accelerator pedal code came back with addition to the absolute pressure sensor code when you unplugged that sensor. |
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06-22-2021, 02:45 AM | #20 |
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Yeh wondering if servotronic (what exactly does this do?) is the issue but total guesswork!
Wonder if the second gear total hole in low down throttle position was a tell tale sign or not or of that's tune related spool lag from the turbo. Now I think of it I may have heard more or a new ticking sound from the engine at idle, however put this down to having installed ASD bypass harness and hearing things differently! Edit: Found this thread and video. My car now makes this noise when locking or unlocking the car! https://www.babybmw.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=123202 Think the servotronic motor is suspect No 1 right now! Last edited by 3t3p; 06-22-2021 at 04:33 AM.. |
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06-22-2021, 01:35 PM | #21 |
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Yup sounds like valvetronic motor. I was just talking about it in another thread. Had to bring my wifes n55 x4 to the dealership to get it fixed. Was there for a few days. They had to replace valvetronic motor and eccentric shaft and all the seals associated with taking off valve cover and injectors. Costed like 4000 bucks but it was under warranty
Fyi valvetronic is bmws equivalent of VTEC in hondas. |
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06-22-2021, 02:56 PM | #22 |
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Yup sounds like valvetronic motor. I was just talking about it in another thread. Had to bring my wifes n55 x4 to the dealership to get it fixed. Was there for a few days. They had to replace valvetronic motor and eccentric shaft and all the seals associated with taking off valve cover and injectors. Costed like 4000 bucks but it was under warranty
Fyi valvetronic is bmws equivalent of VTEC in hondas. |
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