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      06-22-2021, 05:06 PM   #23
3t3p
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Servotronic motor I'm reading is fairly hardy. The sensor can fail and/or have oil ingress degradation.

Eccentric shaft yeh no doubt that is a big complex job, hope it's not that!
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      06-22-2021, 06:26 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3t3p View Post
Servotronic motor I'm reading is fairly hardy. The sensor can fail and/or have oil ingress degradation.

Eccentric shaft yeh no doubt that is a big complex job, hope it's not that!
hopefully not. coz the part itself is $1000 and looks like not an easy diy
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      06-26-2021, 11:15 AM   #25
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Im just wondering if GTS roar could have borked anything? Seems unlikely.

On some starts the GTS roar uptick in rpm to 1500 would sound great. Other times when the engine is properly warm it does it but doesn't sound nearly as defined, might just be because engine is warm.

Just wondered if it could stress valvetronic stuff or make calibration out of whack?

Car still not even at my garage been looked at, will be complaining to my recovery firm (RAC).
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      06-30-2021, 12:10 PM   #26
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Car now looked at, new servotronic being ordered and fitted alongside new oil and filter. When it goes it takes down other system error codes such as accelerator pedal amongst others.

Hopefully good as new after that!

Still unsure if tune related or GTS roar related. Maybe freak bad luck. Haven't seen lots of people running tunes reporting the issue?
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      07-01-2021, 12:15 PM   #27
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She's back! It was an electrical short within the valvetronic motor, they've not seen it before. Maybe freakish bad luck? Don't see how a tune would cause a physical , electrical short?

Mechanic said they're on linked 5V rail hence multiple other sensor codes thrown.

Car is Def feeling slower sans tune! but now I feel like I've had a scare lol

Last edited by 3t3p; 07-01-2021 at 12:23 PM..
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      07-06-2021, 12:06 PM   #28
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Now sure I've had a hire car for a few days then no car before getting mine back. It definitely sounds different.

Even in comfort mode on stock map it is generally more sonorous than before. What is most telling is that on a benign lift off throttle situation at hardly any revs there was a loud bang burble from the exhaust.

The car is driving super smoothly and all seems well. Is this possible from simply replacing the servotronic motor?!

Now I'm wondering if my car wasn't right leading up to the motors eventual failure?

Apart from a hysteresis like spool hole in the early part of second gear (stage 2/2+ MHD not stock tune) the car was performing great. Weird.
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      09-19-2021, 10:24 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3t3p View Post
She's back! It was an electrical short within the valvetronic motor, they've not seen it before. Maybe freakish bad luck? Don't see how a tune would cause a physical , electrical short?

Mechanic said they're on linked 5V rail hence multiple other sensor codes thrown.

Car is Def feeling slower sans tune! but now I feel like I've had a scare lol
For future reference, if you see DME codes like accelerator pedal and a lot of random shit unrelated to the issue, it's an electrical short issue. I see that you mentioned that now. I'm not sure if it's due to them being on the same rail, or the same harness. Not all of the sensors will throw these short errors when there is a short for whatever reason. I only saw the accelerator ones like you had.

You can take anything on the wiring harness and short it, and you'll have those same codes. I noticed this while rewiring both my HPFP sensor and the fuel rail pressure sensor (both part of the module 2 harness). To diagnose your issue, all you had to look at was the one code that stands out (valvetronic), which then you'd walk the wires, and see that they're fine in your case, warranting a deeper look / replacement. Seems like it would be annoyingly difficult if your accelerator had an issue, as it would be hard to narrow down lol. I bet if you removed the valvetronic motor you could find the short (likely just solder fail or buildup/corrosion) and fix it that way, but replacing it is probably easier, especially since opening that up would likely prove difficult. You should probably check that area of the bay out though to make sure it's not being exposed to something it shouldn't.
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Last edited by cxmplex; 09-19-2021 at 10:29 AM..
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      09-24-2021, 05:47 PM   #30
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Thanks, I'm really no mechanic though!

Do you think tuning wasn't relevant then? I really want to go back to 2+, so fun, so loud.
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      09-25-2021, 11:45 AM   #31
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Well, good that you didn't bork it. Software Engineer colleague loaded a code into his N54 and it 'did not go well'...
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      10-24-2021, 10:11 PM   #32
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I run an N55 powered M2, and I've run BM3 for over a year now. I can't say I haven't had issues, but like yours, they are simply not tune related. That said, a Stage 2 or Stage 2+ tune will break stuff - specifically your charge pipe. I'd recommend going FBO if you plan on running anything past a Stage 1 tune. And change your spark plugs as recommended (usually one or two steps colder and gapped tight - like .022").

Can't speak for other platforms, but on BM3, Stage 2+ is only for cars that also have an upgraded HPFP and FBO. That tune, and the e30 ethanol tune push more boost and need more fuel than the stock system can provide. I'd stay away from those if you don't have the required mods.

All of that said, if you go FBO and keep everything else stock, you should be able to run a OTS Stage 2 tune all day. I track my car regularly (6 spd.) and run the Stage 2+ OTS tune on track. Granted, I also have an upgraded oil cooler from CSF, but the tune works.

Everything that has broken on my car has been related to fuel starvation due to heavy cornering (long right hand sweepers) and PCV breathing system in the valve cover not working properly.

And not gapping your spark plugs properly to match the tune has caused misfires on track - ask me how I know...
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      10-25-2021, 05:31 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SuperMarioM2 View Post
I run an N55 powered M2, and I've run BM3 for over a year now. I can't say I haven't had issues, but like yours, they are simply not tune related. That said, a Stage 2 or Stage 2+ tune will break stuff - specifically your charge pipe. I'd recommend going FBO if you plan on running anything past a Stage 1 tune. And change your spark plugs as recommended (usually one or two steps colder and gapped tight - like .022").

Can't speak for other platforms, but on BM3, Stage 2+ is only for cars that also have an upgraded HPFP and FBO. That tune, and the e30 ethanol tune push more boost and need more fuel than the stock system can provide. I'd stay away from those if you don't have the required mods.

All of that said, if you go FBO and keep everything else stock, you should be able to run a OTS Stage 2 tune all day. I track my car regularly (6 spd.) and run the Stage 2+ OTS tune on track. Granted, I also have an upgraded oil cooler from CSF, but the tune works.

Everything that has broken on my car has been related to fuel starvation due to heavy cornering (long right hand sweepers) and PCV breathing system in the valve cover not working properly.

And not gapping your spark plugs properly to match the tune has caused misfires on track - ask me how I know...
Thanks but info about colder plugs and gapping is generally incorrect by reading information from those with engine management credentials!

Also MHD stage 2+ is BM3 stage 2 equivalent so all you need is FBO with stock fuel pump. I've read even that MHD hpfp demands are a bit less than equivalent BM3 tune.

Glad to hear your thoughts on non-tune related issues, out of interest what have you had happen to your car?
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