[blitzyo]

It's been two weeks and a track day since I installed my kit now.
Noticed I get a little squeak from the front and rear while going over speedbumps at 25km/h or higher and the car is cold. When it's warmed up it stops squeaking, but still makes a squishy kind of noise, its hard to explain. It doesn't really feel like I'm hitting the bumpstomps, but they shouldn't squeak anyway.

It's silent when going over them slower. I don't normally go over speedbumps this fast, and don't mind the squeak, but wonder if it's normal?
The stock suspension didn't make these sounds.

Went one softer than default on front and rear rebound. It's a bit tricky to adjust the fronts because it doesn't have a well defined click sometimes. Marking the start/hardest point and adjusting it visually helps. Haven't done any changes to stock alignment yet.

The car is much more stable when in a straight line now, but there's still a floaty feeling at a certain point during acceleration before the car settles. It's like the weight is shifting left to right, but the car isn't losing traction. It's annoying on the street and it kind of upsets the balance of the car when exiting corners on track

[VisualEcho]

Originally Posted by blitzyo

It's been two weeks and a track day since I installed my kit now.
Noticed I get a little squeak from the front and rear while going over speedbumps at 25km/h or higher and the car is cold. When it's warmed up it stops squeaking, but still makes a squishy kind of noise, its hard to explain. It doesn't really feel like I'm hitting the bumpstomps, but they shouldn't squeak anyway.

It's silent when going over them slower. I don't normally go over speedbumps this fast, and don't mind the squeak, but wonder if it's normal?
The stock suspension didn't make these sounds.

Went one softer than default on front and rear rebound. It's a bit tricky to adjust the fronts because it doesn't have a well defined click sometimes. Marking the start/hardest point and adjusting it visually helps. Haven't done any changes to stock alignment yet.

The car is much more stable when in a straight line now, but there's still a floaty feeling at a certain point during acceleration before the car settles. It's like the weight is shifting left to right, but the car isn't losing traction. It's annoying on the street and it kind of upsets the balance of the car when exiting corners on track

Interesting information. I don't track my car, and honestly, don't drive it hard much at all, so I haven't noticed any differences.

I WISH the adjusters on every suspension were like on my Nitron's, which are absolutely perfect. I mean, how hard can it be to make decent adjusters??? Apparently very hard...

[ASAP]

Originally Posted by blitzyo

It's been two weeks and a track day since I installed my kit now.
Noticed I get a little squeak from the front and rear while going over speedbumps at 25km/h or higher and the car is cold. When it's warmed up it stops squeaking, but still makes a squishy kind of noise, its hard to explain. It doesn't really feel like I'm hitting the bumpstomps, but they shouldn't squeak anyway.

It's silent when going over them slower. I don't normally go over speedbumps this fast, and don't mind the squeak, but wonder if it's normal?
The stock suspension didn't make these sounds.

Went one softer than default on front and rear rebound. It's a bit tricky to adjust the fronts because it doesn't have a well defined click sometimes. Marking the start/hardest point and adjusting it visually helps. Haven't done any changes to stock alignment yet.

The car is much more stable when in a straight line now, but there's still a floaty feeling at a certain point during acceleration before the car settles. It's like the weight is shifting left to right, but the car isn't losing traction. It's annoying on the street and it kind of upsets the balance of the car when exiting corners on track

The last paragraph you just stated, i feel in the car almost on a daily... and it bothers me to no end.

I feel solid rear toe arms would help fix this issue but then you would have extreme nvh... i feel this should not happen in an M car.

[M Fifty]

Sounds more like the differential sorting itself out.

[VisualEcho]

Originally Posted by M Fifty

How tight did they seem when you undid them?

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...uts/1VnYnOqVpQ

Man, looking at this again, I'm still a bit confused.

The single strut brace E18 goes to 56nm +90°, and the 5 strut bolts go to 30nm +90°?

Edit: I was wondering why the additional 90° instead of a standard torque. Seems weird...for Germans.

[Caduceus]

Originally Posted by VisualEcho

Man, looking at this again, I'm still a bit confused.

The single strut brace E18 goes to 56nm +90°, and the 5 strut bolts go to 30nm +90°?

Edit: I was wondering why the additional 90° instead of a standard torque. Seems weird...for Germans.

That's the normal way to describe Torque-To-Yield (TTY) fastener specifications.

The first torque setting bottoms out the fastener. The additional rotation "stretches" the fastener beyond its elastic limit and applies the clamping force across the joint.

From an engineering perspective, torque is a crude measure tightness of fasteners. This is because it is 90 degrees out of plane from the more meaningful measure which is clamping force. It's also affected by lubrication (or lack thereof) of the threads, number of threads engaged and a whole lot of other factors. But for most practical applications, it's easy to measure and good enough. TTY is one step better.

[VisualEcho]

Originally Posted by Caduceus

That's the normal way to describe Torque-To-Yield (TTY) fastener specifications.

The first torque setting bottoms out the fastener. The additional rotation "stretches" the fastener beyond its elastic limit and applies the clamping force across the joint.

From an engineering perspective, torque is a crude measure tightness of fasteners. This is because it is 90 degrees out of plane from the more meaningful measure which is clamping force. It's also affected by lubrication (or lack thereof) of the threads, number of threads engaged and a whole lot of other factors. But for most practical applications, it's easy to measure and good enough. TTY is one step better.

Thanks for the great explanation!

[VisualEcho]

Originally Posted by omasou

My car had 9 miles.

This is what Brian recommended and what I bought and told the dealer to use.

2 x 33 50 6 866 038 gasket
2 x 31 30 7 854 446 gasket
10 x 31 30 7 855 400 hexagon screw with flange M8X33 10.9 ZNS3
4 x 33 32 6 768 884 hexagon nut with collar M10-10 ZNS3
2 x 33 32 6 760 668 nut, self-locking collar M12X1,5-10 ZNS3
1 x 34 33 9 806 226 nut, self-locking M14X1,5-05 ZNS3
2 x 07 11 9 905 418 hex bolt with washer M10X80-U1-10.9
2 x 07 11 9 905 610 hex bolt with washer M12X125-10 ZNS3
2 x 33 52 7 850 600 12-point nut M14X1,5 ZNNIVSI

This list above is actually the M2C list, and the last item, the 12-point nut is suspect.

My recommendation is that if you have an OG M2, get the list I'm enclosing, which doesn't include the gaskets (waste of money).

[ASAP]

sorry about being super annoying... but anymore driving impressions after a few weeks?

[VisualEcho]

Originally Posted by ASAP

sorry about being super annoying... but anymore driving impressions after a few weeks?

You're not annoying, but it's hard to say after weeks (as far as a comparison). Initial assessment is always best.

Having said that, I can tell you for sure that...

1. There is more bounce. And that's a bit hard to explain. It bounces a bit like springs bounce, but not nearly as bad. I've described it before as that I'm moving more in the car, and I am. So if I were a girl I'd feel it in my boobs more. It's like the car is following the road more closely.

2. The suspension is SOFTER, and much less crashy. The bumps are there, and cause more movement, but they are softer for absolute sure.

If I had a choice between the two I'd easily pick the MPS.

The thing is, I've had coil-overs in the past that just destroyed the ride of the car, and I was really worried about that with this car, but it just didn't happen. The ride actually got better (but with a bit more movement).

As far as performance, I couldn't tell you, it's my daily, and I don't push the car ever (I have an Exige for that sort of thing).

The car simply feels a bit more bouncy but softer overall.

My settings are (as near as I can tell) 595/600 and 1 click softer on everything.

Front: C:7 R: 10
Rear: C:7 R: 13

[kart driver]

The dealer is installing the MP coilovers tomorrow for my M2C

What setting are you running on your M-performance coilovers for the track and aggressive back roads?

[VisualEcho]

Originally Posted by kart driver

The dealer is installing the MP coilovers tomorrow for my M2C

What setting are you running on your M-performance coilovers for the track and aggressive back roads?

I use the M2 for a daily, so no aggressive back-roads or track. You can see my settings just above this post .

[M2Pilot]

Great Thread, Thanks for all the info! I can't wait to get mine installed.

[kart driver]

Originally Posted by kart driver

The dealer is installing the MP coilovers tomorrow for my M2C

What setting are you running on your M-performance coilovers for the track and aggressive back roads?

The PMS was installed today.

First impressions:
- definitely better feedback on good roads
- definitely more stability while driving fast on good roads
- jumping more on bad roads
- coping with speed bumps better then stock suspension


The settings are standard as recommended by the manufacturer for the height being 595 mm front and 600 mm rear and the comfort.

I am thinking of maybe trying it a bit softer just to understand the difference and to see if the grip on poor roads is getting better.

Is it just one click? Both front and rear? Or are there any other modifications needed?

[blitzyo]

3 weeks in and 2 tracks days down and now I'm hearing a click from both sides of the front when turning the steering wheel lock to lock while stationary. Anyone else?

Also the squeaking noise while going over speedbumps I've noticed now even when the car and suspension are hot.

All of these sounds are quiet and only really noticeable if you've got your window down. Are these normal sounds?

[VisualEcho]

I'm not getting any additional sounds, but I don't track the car either.

[blitzyo]

Originally Posted by VisualEcho

I'm not getting any additional sounds, but I don't track the car either.

So, my car had the larger 34-33-9-806-226 strut top nuts all around on stock too, but I gave my shop the original parts list from the first page, with the 2 shorter nuts and those are installed either in the front or the rear right now, not sure.
Should I bother changing them to the taller nut at this point?

Also my shop returned back two unused 33-32-6-768-884 (M10-10 ZNS3). They might have reused two older ones and since I track the car I don't want to take the risk. Two of them went on the upper control arm bolts, where do the other two go?

[VisualEcho]

Originally Posted by blitzyo

So, my car had the larger 34-33-9-806-226 strut top nuts all around on stock too, but I gave my shop the original parts list from the first page, with the 2 shorter nuts and those are installed either in the front or the rear right now, not sure.
Should I bother changing them to the taller nut at this point?

Also my shop returned back two unused 33-32-6-768-884 (M10-10 ZNS3). They might have reused two older ones and since I track the car I don't want to take the risk. Two of them went on the upper control arm bolts, where do the other two go?

Your first question is a bit above my pay grade, so forgive me there. I was iffy on putting the shorter ones on, so I used the old, taller ones in the back, and the new taller ones in the front.

I can't remember where the other two 884 bolts went, looking now. I think they're both right there by the endlink. Maybe on the top and bottom where it connects on both ends. If you do a search on that PN you'll find that some guys have not replaced it and it caused some noise.

[ASAP]

Originally Posted by VisualEcho

You're not annoying, but it's hard to say after weeks (as far as a comparison). Initial assessment is always best.

Having said that, I can tell you for sure that...

1. There is more bounce. And that's a bit hard to explain. It bounces a bit like springs bounce, but not nearly as bad. I've described it before as that I'm moving more in the car, and I am. So if I were a girl I'd feel it in my boobs more. It's like the car is following the road more closely.

2. The suspension is SOFTER, and much less crashy. The bumps are there, and cause more movement, but they are softer for absolute sure.

If I had a choice between the two I'd easily pick the MPS.

The thing is, I've had coil-overs in the past that just destroyed the ride of the car, and I was really worried about that with this car, but it just didn't happen. The ride actually got better (but with a bit more movement).

As far as performance, I couldn't tell you, it's my daily, and I don't push the car ever (I have an Exige for that sort of thing).

The car simply feels a bit more bouncy but softer overall.

My settings are (as near as I can tell) 595/600 and 1 click softer on everything.

Front: C:7 R: 10
Rear: C:7 R: 13

I guess I am just super confused on the bounce comments... I need to drive a car with MPS.

If the car bounces more like springs bounce this would indicate a high rebound... which to me would almost defeat the purpose of a solid set of coilovers and would annoy me to no end. I'd excpect the car to feel more settled.

If however the bounce is simply due to an overall stiffer car, then I would understand and expect that.

I guess the best way to put it is this... if you drove onto an onramp and there are uneven undulations / or bumps in the road... does the car pogo more than before? And if you accelerate harder does it pogo even more? That to me would be a serious red flag and that to me is the issue w the stock setup.

[VisualEcho]

Originally Posted by ASAP

I guess I am just super confused on the bounce comments... I need to drive a car with MPS.

If the car bounces more like springs bounce this would indicate a high rebound... which to me would almost defeat the purpose of a solid set of coilovers and would annoy me to no end. I'd excpect the car to feel more settled.

If however the bounce is simply due to an overall stiffer car, then I would understand and expect that.

I guess the best way to put it is this... if you drove onto an onramp and there are uneven undulations / or bumps in the road... does the car pogo more than before? And if you accelerate harder does it pogo even more? That to me would be a serious red flag and that to me is the issue w the stock setup.

It feels like classic spring bounce to me, only greatly reduced. I like your word pogo. It wasn't there at all when the car was stock, but is present now.

However, it doesn't unsettle the car at all. It feels like stiffer spring bounce, not a compression or rebound issue.

Overall it feels softer (with my settings), but you can feel the increased grip.

During high-speed anything I can see it being more planted.

[SM2]

Originally Posted by VisualEcho

Are you talking about this bit?

Yeah, getting that endlink screw back on was annoying, I assume because of the crush washer.

[x233]

Originally Posted by kart driver

- jumping more on bad roads

I am currently running default street settings. Make sure the installer didn't mess with those. They might. At least they called me and asked if they should "even the settings out" because the mechanic “thought identical setting might be a better way to go" and I had to specifically tell them to leave everything as it came from the factory, or revert to what it was initially if they messed with it.

I know BMW says the install is only a day's job... supposedly... Well, the install per se, swapping things and screwing everything in place - yes. Setting it up once the suspension is in place - I bet no, if you want to get it right. They can't measure the lowering immediately after dropping the car off the lift, and it does take more than a few tries to get the ride height right, also they can't align it immediately, it has to settle and that, too, takes a while. I had to leave the car at the dealer for 3 days, which is how long it took them to get it right, calling back and forth to get everything the way I wanted. The install is rather straightforward. Setting it up... - no, it takes at least as long. So I am bit surprised it only took them a day to do yours.

Generally, it's the front vs rear balance of things that makes the car either jumpy, unstable, or settled. By default, the rear rebound is 3 clicks softer than the front. Hard (or closed) is all the way “+”, soft (or open) is all the way “–“.

Making the front rebound 1 "click" softer (without altering the rear) makes the car more comfortable on bad roads but also makes steering a bit vague. (for me personally the steering response is more important so I reverted to the default settings). If you try to change the front rebound use a marker to mark the exact position of the knob you begin with because the "clicks" aren’t really clicks and aren't clearly defined.

Alternatively, going one 1 click harder on the rear rebound might help to settle the rear better vs the front (if what you mean by jumpy is the rear, which is probably the case) at the expense of making the car a bit stiffer overall and a bit less traction on bad roads. This may be your solution, though.

Also, the front vs rear height is what might have an effect on that jumpiness. (higher rear end produces more jumpiness). As detailed as the dealer manuals are it's still hard to expect them to get it spot on each time they do it.

It's easy to raise the front, just a tiny bit, and see if that helps with that rear end jumpiness on bad roads. (you don’t touch the rear because normally it’s all the way down anyway). The front spring perch has at least 8 distinct positions to use as marks so you get it right (again, use a marker to clearly mark your default position, turning right is up).

I would try tweaking the front vs rear height (if I wasn’t happy with stiffening up the rear rebound, or softening the front), or perhaps I'd try that first as long as the shock settings are correct, by turning the front spring perch 2 eighths up (right) to see if that has any effect on that jumpiness. If it does, front vs rear height may be the problem.
(raising the front may come at the expense of the front end sharpness (slightly) and you may notice a bit more understeer at the limit, but you don't want too much rake).

In my case, when I got the car back from the dealer it was spot on. Almost. I didn't really have an issue with "jumpiness". I believe it's because they got the front vs rear height right. The reason I think so is because I tried dropping the front a bit more after that and that's when I got some "jumpiness" on bad roads (without altering anything else) and I had to revert to something closer to the dealer's settings.

Anyway, the coilovers are different and they are a lively ride. It's not going to be just like the stock only more comfortable, the stock being very flat. There may be some trade-offs.