[AmuroRay]

I disagree with all of this, but give me a few hours and some coffee and I'll follow up. maybe.

I'm partly kidding, but give me a bit to review the logs and follow up with my findings.

[ZM2]

Originally Posted by AmuroRay

I disagree with all of this, but give me a few hours and some coffee and I'll follow up. maybe.

I'm partly kidding, but give me a bit to review the logs and follow up with my findings.

Just remember, some of us have been taking logs and testing modifications for the track for some years over here in the real world.

While some of you take street logs and read & comment a bunch in the forums like your knowledge and experiences are applicable to the situations we’re trying to address in this thread.

[AmuroRay]

Originally Posted by ZM2

Just remember, some of us have been taking logs and testing modifications for the track for some years over here in the real world.

While some of you take street logs and read & comment a bunch in the forums like your knowledge and experiences are applicable to the situations we’re trying to address in this thread.

Street performance is indicative of track performance. If it doesn't work on the street, it's not going to get better on the track. Not to drag anyone over the coals, but I was and continue to be correct on the intercooler sizing and impact, from throttle response to power, to IAT control despite not having "years of on track experience" I know the theory behind these factors, how they work and WHY they work - I can review datalogs see trends and provide input like anyone else.

And as always, I'll do my best to substantiate everything I say with sources. I'm here to help you (and save you money) but ultimately, you're going to do what you're going to do.

[ZM2]

Originally Posted by AmuroRay

Street performance is indicative of track performance. If it doesn't work on the street, it's not going to get better on the track. Not to drag anyone over the coals, but I was and continue to be correct on the intercooler sizing and impact, from throttle response to power, to IAT control despite not having "years of on track experience" I know the theory behind these factors, how they work and WHY they work - I can review datalogs see trends and provide input like anyone else.

And as always, I'll do my best to substantiate everything I say with sources. I'm here to help you (and save you money) but ultimately, you're going to do what you're going to do.

My point is if this were as easy as looking at street logs and buying a top performing intercooler, we’d be done already.

How you’re going to amass data on whether this is an airflow issue bn the IC and radiator or something else vs. providing theory on what you think the problem is, I have no idea, unless you have a buddy with an M2 that hits the track all the time and you guys are willing to join the experiment.

We’ve been iterating on this for a while and the list is getting shorter on what the final fix should be, but we’re not there yet. If I had been tracking the car like I was back in 2017-19, we’d likely already be there. Even guys that build street/track and track only M2’s like OG Shark have struggled with this issue.

If you think you can contribute, theory or not, please do.

[ThreeStripes]

While I don’t think it’s a silver bullet, I am curious what impact a funk motorsports turbo blanket, ceramic coated downpipe, and vented hood would have collectively.

I know fitment on your TE460 may differ slightly but I think this is an option for the Pure500 build I’m considering.

[ZM2]

Originally Posted by ThreeStripes

While I don’t think it’s a silver bullet, I am curious what impact a funk motorsports turbo blanket, ceramic coated downpipe, and vented hood would have collectively.

I know fitment on your TE460 may differ slightly but I think this is an option for the Pure500 build I’m considering.

I’m sure the turbo blanket would help some, but after the one I tried didn’t fit I haven’t rethought about it bc the turbo is already on the car.

I do have a Suvneer GTS hood, I’ll add it to my list above. Thanks for reminding me!

[AmuroRay]

I just reviewed 2 videos and a log of a track event (two different tracks, cars and drivers) and saw basically no difference between a taller core or a shorter one. In fact, the car with the taller core performed as good as the Shorter core when it came to cooling - the temps continued to drop and stay at a medium despite the more aggressive driving:

https://f87.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...2024707&page=2

[ThreeStripes]

It’s worth noting that from what I gather ZM2 is running longer sessions (beyond 25mins) with ambient temps in the 90s and above and making 45whp more.

I’m not saying his temp issues only arise on 95* days AFTER 30 min mark but as he mentioned earlier there are a lot of variables at play here including track, turbo, power levels, tune and more.

His issues have been encountered by others so as he points out, this is in fact a thing.

[ZM2]

Originally Posted by ThreeStripes

It’s worth noting that from what I gather ZM2 is running longer sessions (beyond 25mins) with ambient temps in the 90s and above and making 45whp more.

I’m not saying his temp issues only arise on 95* days AFTER 30 min mark but as he mentioned earlier there are a lot of variables at play here including track, turbo, power levels, tune and more.

His issues have been encountered by others so as he points out, this is in fact a thing.

Yeah, as I said in the other thread, when you add decent power to the OG and drive it hard on a fast track in >80F ambient, either IATs go to the moon and the car pulls power to prevent detonation (which also keeps coolant & oil temps in check), or you put a larger IC on and coolant temps will overheat.

This has been an issue for years with the OG. The problem has been determining what best to do about it bc of all the variables involved bn different car setups, tunes, drivers, tracks, weather, etc. Add coolant and/or oil capacity? Try a different IC bc it’s an airflow issue?

It’s taking longer to tackle this bc it’s not an armchair engineering or log review & make assumptions exercise. You have to make a change based on the current data you have and see if that change made things better or worse.

Right now, it’s pointing to the IC creating airflow issues for the radiator, which would require a change to test out. Altho, I need to test the do88 radiator and new tune first on a hot summer day to see how much/if those items help.

[ThreeStripes]

Originally Posted by ZM2

Right now, it’s pointing to the IC creating airflow issues for the radiator, which would require a change to test out. Altho, I need to test the do88 radiator and new tune first on a hot summer day to see how much/if those items help.

Is the new tune going to decrease power output? Curious if testing would show linear temp increases with power as you climb from say 415whp to 460whp or if there is a cliff so to speak.

I know outings are for enjoyment not testing Lol but I’d love to see 3 sessions logged with like 415whp/435/455whp tunes on your setup if I could waive a magic wand.

[ZM2]

Originally Posted by ThreeStripes

Is the new tune going to decrease power output? Curious if testing would show linear temp increases with power as you climb from say 415whp to 460whp or if there is a cliff so to speak.

I know outings are for enjoyment not testing Lol but I’d love to see 3 sessions logged with like 415whp/435/455whp tunes on your setup if I could waive a magic wand.

It’s definitely a different tune strategy. A little less power overall, but psi drops from lower to higher rpm (instead of staying pegged) to keep the turbo deep in its efficiency zone up top and hopefully generate less heat.

It’s easy enough to map switch via the steering wheel, so can def get different logs for each power level.

[bbnks2]

while I agree super large intercoolers are pretty out of place on a track car... I doubt the taller cores are really having a massive impact on coolant temps. Do they help with the issue? No. Do people obsess of IAT's for no reason? Yes. All my experience is with the e-series chassis. I run a 5" intercooler instead of the larger 7" cores people use. The only track I've seen 150f+ at was Pocono raceway which has one of the largest straights in America depending on the configuration. Running the smaller intercooler is a non-issue on track. Just up the octane a hair or drop the timing by half a degree if you see IAT induced knock. That being said, I did see a nice improvement in cooling when I removed my A/C. The A/c evap sits in front of the radiator and both blocks flow and puts heat into the radiator.

Now as for oil/water temps... it's complicated on the e-series because of the electronic water pump. Some of my early posts were before we had the coolant "map" and how it related it AMBIENT air temperature and pedal position. I noted how coolant temps actually seemed to DROP when I drove aggressively indicating that the cooling system had overhead that wasn't being tapped for performance. This turned out to be because the coolant pump duty cycle targets higher coolant temps for economy unless the pedal angle was at 100% or ambient temp is 96f+. So you blast down the straight away at wide open throttle and the duty cycle increases to drop coolant temps to a "performance" target oil 190f. I would see coolant temps dropping on the straight or on a back road pull.

Now we re-map those cooling setpoints for performance with MHD or a custom tune to always shoot for 180f coolant in race mode. I personally am able to track my car with distilled water + a 26row oil cooler and nothing else. Temps stay fine. Last time out at Lime rock on an 86f day I barley cracked 250f oil temps. Coolant hit 220 or so by the end of a 20minute session. Higher than I would like but realistically perfectly fine given the car would regular be at 230+ before remapping the coolant targets. Not a single bit of knock in the log. The lower coolant targets help keep oil temps in check. A 25 or 30 minute session would be much more difficult to handle I would think.

From here I would upgrade my radiator to a CSF drop in... but overall the car has been fine on track with minimal mods other than a larger oil cooler and the water pump remap. I made my own oil cooler duct and removed the stock plastic to ensure the oil cooler was force fed air. Many overlook this and their oil coolers don't act as efficiently as they should. Can't just slap a generic oil cooler into the bumper and let airflow go right around it... you likely wont net any gains over stock where the plastic trim fits perfectly to the core. Some of the oil cooler posted above do look pretty generic. Those "deflecting" shrouds don't look that great and the louvered backing plate will indeed prevent airflow through the core. I wouldn't use that louvered backing plate at all. This is why I opted against spending money on a name brand oil cooler and used a generic core and made my own shroud out of aluminum sheeting. Did it bolt in? No. Took a bit of red neck ingenuity to fab up a bracket and module the aluminum to the core. But my shroud is tight around all 4 corners with the top being curved for aero flow.

I can't speak to the specifics of M2 cooling issues. I remember seeing them struggling on track years back when they first came out. Constant overheating after only a few minutes of driving. Didn't make much sense given the M2 gets significantly more cooling and aero vs a basic 135. That being said, I see some really fast lap times being thrown down by M2 cars. Plenty of youtube vids of M2's going sub 1.00 at lime rock. People clearly have cooling figured out. Hard to find videos with temps in them though.

[AmuroRay]

Originally Posted by ZM2

Hey guys.

We all know the packaging and cooling system shortcomings of the OG M2, vs the M2 Comp and S55. Altho, these shortcomings tend to not appear until you're really pushing the car on track.

I'm running the Dinan Stage 4 setup (turbo, piggyback, Dinan IC) and CSF cooling pack (radiator, DCT, oil) and experienced some pretty high temps at my last track day.

Max temps:
Ambient - 107F
IAT - 161F
Oil - 266F
Coolant - 253F

This was an open track day and I was running with slicks, AP racing brakes, all the Stage 4 goodies, and pushing the car hard for 40min runs, so I'd say this is an extreme case for the M2.

The car starts to pull power above 242F coolant and will go into emergency cooling mode around 257F coolant. I was getting significant power pulled, so I'm searching for more engine cooling capacity.

CSF said they're working on a larger radiator, but it requires an AC delete due to the M2's packaging.

Do you guys have any ideas or other solutions? Thanks.

I'm reading what everyone is saying - I don't disagree that more boost and higher ambient temperatures have an impact on cooling. I'm just disagreeing what the CAUSE is. 16PSI on a TE460 isn't going to generate the same heat as 16PSI as the OEM turbo running out of it's efficiency range.

You were having issues with cooling before switching to a 5" taller intercooler, and everything I've seen shows that it's an M2 issue oil cooler issue and not a intercooler passthrough issue.
Is there anyone else you know of or can link me to that has tested the CSF oil cooler by itself? The one review I saw was disappointing. The OP said to only dropped temps "marginally" (3F) which makes sense - it doesn't really increase oil capacity which I believe is equally important. Remember the air cooled Porsches? They were cooled entirely with oil and had massive oil capacity:

https://www.2addicts.com/forums/show....php?t=1864339

I have been having issues on track with oil temperatures reaching up to 131.C (267F). These were only from 5-8mins worth of track time.

Im running bootmod3 stg2 with FBO including both an upgraded IC and a modified thermostat which circulates the oil into the oil cooler at lower temps.
i
Switched to the CSF Oil cooler a few weeks later but temps have only dropped down marginally 129C (264F). Track ambient was around ~31C
Is anybody else having the same experience?

BMW's Part number for the oil cooler on the M2 is 17217853240, and per CSF, it's a 15 rows (for the M235i it's 13 rows) vs their 18 rows, but it only increases the oil capacity to 7.5 (up.5) quarts. They also have a secondary core on the rear of the first core - though as we know with intercoolers, the depth is not as effective as frontal surface area:
https://ind-distribution.com/product...pec-oil-cooler

The ER oil cooler appears to be bigger in comparison, as does the DO88, does anyone have any experience with those? But before you spend crazy money on a new intercooler, oil cooler or anything else, what about trying a oil thermostat. That might be the most cost effective and easiest upgrade to do. It appear that the Mosselman version isn't a always open based t-stat like the BMS on the comment here:
https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...ight=mosselman

Originally Posted by visionaut

FWIW, the MSL Oil T-stat doesn’t affect my car coming up to temp, summer or winter. It gets to 220-230 almost as fast as before, it just doesn’t go over that now.

The factory oil T-stat opens at a higher temp, but it’s binary, so it’s either fully closed or fully open. When it opens, you get full flow from then on to the cooler.

The MSL is a true variable flow T-stat, so it starts opening at 185F, but doesn’t fully open at that temp. So it’s able to actually regulate the oil flow to the cooler as needed as temps rise/fall (and it can fully close as well should the engine oil get cooler, unlike the factory unit.)

It’s not a cheap by-pass or a simple lower-temp binary valve like other aftermarket suppliers offer. (which can result in too low oil temps).

[AmuroRay]

Originally Posted by ZM2

My point is if this were as easy as looking at street logs and buying a top performing intercooler, we’d be done already.

How you’re going to amass data on whether this is an airflow issue bn the IC and radiator or something else vs. providing theory on what you think the problem is, I have no idea, unless you have a buddy with an M2 that hits the track all the time and you guys are willing to join the experiment.

We’ve been iterating on this for a while and the list is getting shorter on what the final fix should be, but we’re not there yet. If I had been tracking the car like I was back in 2017-19, we’d likely already be there. Even guys that build street/track and track only M2’s like OG Shark have struggled with this issue.

If you think you can contribute, theory or not, please do.

I found the silver bullet:

Originally Posted by TYSP33D

Right, so let me give you guys some insight on what it has taken to keep this thing "COOL"

Temperature control has been a huge issue for us and M235IR's from the get-go. Mind you the 235iR is 280 whp, we are at 465WHP @ 21 Llbs of Boost. It has not been easy. Thankfully we have been working directly with CSF Cooling all season to continue to develop the cooling system , as well as working in some of our own fixes.

While I cannot currently offer a plug and play solution, I will share with you the modifications we have done so far, which includes many products from CSF, as well as our own tool box ...

-The tune has a provision that keeps the thermostat fully open at all times, this prevents the car from getting up to 220, then working itself back down. It idles around 185 degrees now.
-We removed the factory heat exchanger under the coolant reservoir to help separate the coolant and oil temperatures
-WE removed the factory oil cooler from it's stock location and installed a V-Mounted 200 cubic inch "boss" oil cooler from CSF using a bespoke billet OFH adapter plate from a world challenge car. This allowed us to install a remote style oil filter which has better filtering, and further separates the oil/cooling temperatures from one another as the plate allows each to pass through separately as opposed to "mixing". It also removes the thermostat assembly which was previous by-passed, but still in place.
-There is currently NOT an auxiliary radiator, which CSF has been bugging me to re-install, but we currently have brake ducts routed in the locations of the factory oil cooler and aux cooler vents. We are working on developing a further -enlarged "race spec" radiator for the F22/F87 Cars with CSF which would be installable without a radiator condenser. (because race car)
-The front bumper opening is enlarged to support maximum flow to the now relocated oil cooler. We did this because the coolers are stacked, and in the previous configuration were causing "heat soak". This was because the air was going through 3 coolers before exiting- the oil cooler, the DCT cooler, and then the radiator. You cant cool a radiator with hot air...
-Hood vents (large ones) are installed to evacuate the hot air from under the hood.
-The factory fan is removed, we have tested with it on/off the car , and the flow seems to be better with it removed as the factory fan shroud is large and blocks airflow. WE have also tried running the car with the fan on "FULL duty cycle" at all times while running, without much help (except at low speeds)

When we first tested this car we could go about 10 minutes or 5-6 laps before approaching 250* coolant temps and 280* oil temperatures (this was at 65* ambient testing in the early spring. . From these various continuing developments the car now runs full 30+ minute sprint races at WOT 6-7,000 RPM shifting in 90+ Degree ambient heat. We are close, and hopeful the newer race-spec rad from CSF will get us that 10-15% reduction we are striving for. I am hopeful that after this is all said and done we will get these cars running at 100% for a full tank of gas when making 400+ wheel horsepower, which as the community develops these more and more into track cars will be beneficial. I hope to offer some sort of sell-able solution at some point in the coming year.

Anyways, thanks all for the interest- take a look at some of the pics below, including one with the bumper off as we were cleaning out some debris from an accidental lawn-mowing session at the O'Fest nationals.

https://f87.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...ighlight=pikes

Notes:
Tracks the car
Is actually a race car
Has experience
Tested products

Also noted from his setup -
21PSI - and 465whp
No secondary radiator. Zero
Stock radiator?
Intercooler and secondary Oil cooler occupying MORE space and airflow than a taller intercooler would
Despite this Coolant temps in full attack mode were 237F at the highest


It is, and always has been an oil cooler issue, and possible a airflow issue with the M2's bumper like I surmised a few days ago. I would start with a thermostat and look for a bigger/better oil cooler. No need to reinvent the wheel.

[thejeremyman9]

Does anyone know if the oil thermostat bypass/always open thing like the BMS one actually improve the flow of oil or anything? If i recall correctly those are a very quick install and dont require removing the OFH or anything. I wonder if its worth it to toss one of those in and go out and test to see if steady state oil temps are affected at all. Obviously they will start lower, but the question is if it keeps the peak lower.

If that doesn't help then going to a different thermostat like the Mosselman seems like it wouldn't either, and is far easier to test.

[AmuroRay]

Originally Posted by thejeremyman9

Does anyone know if the oil thermostat bypass/always open thing like the BMS one actually improve the flow of oil or anything? If i recall correctly those are a very quick install and dont require removing the OFH or anything. I wonder if its worth it to toss one of those in and go out and test to see if steady state oil temps are affected at all. Obviously they will start lower, but the question is if it keeps the peak lower.

If that doesn't help then going to a different thermostat like the Mosselman seems like it wouldn't either, and is far easier to test.

The difference between the two like you said was headroom. The BMS unit is basically a bypass from what I read, so you're baseline is 185F giving you almost 80F in headroom, vs starting at 240F.
The Mosselman is actually functioning as a lower thermostat switch, and would likely be better for street cars, since it still allows them to reach "operating temps" but adds about 20F headroom over baseline.

I don't think either provide any extra cooling, but rather allow the cooler to shed head before it's heat soaked by the time the thermostat would open. Here is a review of the BMS unit from 2013:

https://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=833908

Edit:
thejeremyman9 - you are right, it does:

https://burgertuning.com/products/sp...l-cooler-valve

Lower your engine oil temperature for maximum racing performance.
N54 and N55 BMW engines are known to have insufficient oil cooling capabilities. This simple engine oil cooler valve increases flow to your fender-mounted engine oil/air heat exchanger resulting in lower engine oil temperatures and more consistent performance during heavy throttle. Less restrictive than the spring-loaded units.

Edit edit:
Maxcool mode is NOT a replacement for a lower temperature thermostat, as it only targets coolant (likely overdriving the waterpump)

New bootmod3 features!

First one is ‘MAX cooling mode’ - this will reduce your water coolant targets by 10 degrees Celsius and applies to ALL engines and ROM versions!

https://www.protuningfreaks.com/blog...r-n55-vehicles

[bbnks2]

Originally Posted by AmuroRay

The difference between the two like you said was headroom. The BMS unit is basically a bypass from what I read, so you're baseline is 185F giving you almost 80F in headroom, vs starting at 240F.
The Mosselman is actually functioning as a lower thermostat switch, and would likely be better for street cars, since it still allows them to reach "operating temps" but adds about 20F headroom over baseline.

I don't think either provide any extra cooling, but rather allow the cooler to shed head before it's heat soaked by the time the thermostat would open. Here is a review of the BMS unit from 2013:

https://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=833908

Edit:
thejeremyman9 - you are right, it does:

https://burgertuning.com/products/sp...l-cooler-valve



Edit edit:
Maxcool mode is NOT a replacement for a lower temperature thermostat, as it only targets coolant (likely overdriving the waterpump)


https://www.protuningfreaks.com/blog...r-n55-vehicles

I think youre reading too much old information.

Max cooling mode is the first thing anyone should do before touching any hardware. No you're not overdriving the water pump. It's map controlled like I said above and it sits idle quite a bit to keep coolant running excessively hot for economy. M2 likely has better stock mapping than a regular n55 but still.... there is cooling overhead there to take advantage of.

You don't want you're car targeting 236f cooling temps on track. You want to drop that to 180. Yes the water pump will.have to work harder and the thermostat will stay fully open (it's also electronic), but, that's not "overdrive." The car can always hit those lower cooling targets it just doesn't do it unless you stay at wide open throttle for a while. And if you start at 236f at wide open throttle your coolant temps will only drop so much. You want your coolant at <190f on track. What's the difference between 230 and 190? An entire 40f. Where will your oil temps be by dropping cooling 40f??? They'll be 30-40f lower meaning you'll be going on track at 210f oil which is the opening of the stock oil thermostat..no need for a low temperature oil thermostat really as 210f is perfect for a street/track car.

You want max cooling mode first and foremost. Then reassess. You can code back to stock cooling in 30 seconds when you're back to daily driving.

Combine 180f coolant temps with a bigger oil cooler and you likely won't see much if nay need for any additional cooling... maybe on longer 25-30minute session you'll start seeing bugger climbs in temps and then you can look at a csf radiator or something. Cooling will rise from thermal overload of the stock radiator as you run through a track session.

If you're driving on the street I don't care hit hard you drive your car you don't need any cooling upgrades. There is 0 comparison to on track. People see 250f oil on the street and think they need a low temp thermostat. You dont and you're not using all the cooling capacity you already have without max cooling mode. Quite frankly there is 0 reason to keep oil <250f on the street.

[AmuroRay]

Originally Posted by bbnks2

I think youre reading too much old information.

Max cooling mode is the first thing anyone should do before touching any hardware. No you're not overdriving the water pump. It's map controlled like I said above and it sits idle quite a bit to keep coolant running excessively hot for economy. M2 likely has better stock mapping than a regular n55 but still.... there is cooling overhead there to take advantage of.

You don't want you're car targeting 236f cooling temps on track. You want to drop that to 180. Yes the water pump will.have to work harder and the thermostat will stay fully open (it's also electronic), but, that's not "overdrive." The car can always hit those lower cooling targets it just doesn't do it unless you stay at wide open throttle for a while. And if you start at 236f at wide open throttle your coolant temps will only drop so much. You want your coolant at <190f on track. What's the difference between 230 and 190? An entire 40f. Where will your oil temps be by dropping cooling 40f??? They'll be 30-40f lower meaning you'll be going on track at 210f oil which is the opening of the stock oil thermostat..no need for a low temperature oil thermostat really as 210f is perfect for a street/track car.

You want max cooling mode first and foremost. Then reassess. You can code back to stock cooling in 30 seconds when you're back to daily driving.

Everyone here already has max cooling mode - Zm2 stated above he runs it, the point here is that Max cooling mode does jack all for the oil thermostat, and just gives extra cooling headroom on the radiator. ZM3 referenced in another thread, he thought the oil thermostat opening was changed by Max Cool, I went to BM3 myself to check and it does not claim to do such.

Finally, Bootmod (at least for the B series motors) claims they run the intercooler (Air to water) pump all the time - on the N series, they don't say how it's done
In this thread from 2022 from "....Street" it's stated that it's actually the water pump and fan are run in a "more aggressive manner" so maybe "overdrive" isn't the correct term, but the idea is there.

.....street.com/threads/mhd-tuning-coolant-target-question.8521/


FYI - no one here is talking about street anything - everything here is entirely track focused. He's already running max cool mode, an upgraded oil cooler, upgraded radiator, and upgraded auxiliary radiator and none of them are solving the problem. The only thing he hasn't tried is using a bypass or lower temp thermostat for the oil.

[thejeremyman9]

Lower your engine oil temperature for maximum racing performance.
N54 and N55 BMW engines are known to have insufficient oil cooling capabilities. This simple engine oil cooler valve increases flow to your fender-mounted engine oil/air heat exchanger resulting in lower engine oil temperatures and more consistent performance during heavy throttle. Less restrictive than the spring-loaded units.

ZM2 if this is true, and the bypass actually improves oil flow to the cooler per their claims, what do you think about using that as a simple, inexpensive, drop in test to see if it changes peak oil temps (not just by starting lower, but actually flowing more). I suppose that would only be true if the bottleneck in the oil cooling system was flow, and not the oil cooler itself. Seems like a simple experiment to put into practice though.

[thejeremyman9]

Originally Posted by bbnks2

They'll be 30-40f lower meaning you'll be going on track at 210f oil which is the opening of the stock oil thermostat..no need for a low temperature oil thermostat really as 210f is perfect for a street/track car.

You sure the stock oil t-tstat opens at 210F? I'm pretty sure it's higher than that, as normal oil temp is 245ish. Keeping oil temp around 210f is basically what the aftermarket one does.

[bbnks2]

Originally Posted by thejeremyman9

You sure the stock oil t-tstat opens at 210F? I'm pretty sure it's higher than that, as normal oil temp is 245ish. Keeping oil temp around 210f is basically what the aftermarket one does.

Yeah in an e series my car sits at 210f on the street all day. Seeing up to 250f in a log is within normal operating range for the stock Stat.

Again not sure if m2 is different but 99% sure the oil thermostat range is the same.

[bbnks2]

Originally Posted by AmuroRay

Everyone here already has max cooling mode - Zm2 stated above he runs it, the point here is that Max cooling mode does jack all for the oil thermostat, and just gives extra cooling headroom on the radiator. ZM3 referenced in another thread, he thought the oil thermostat opening was changed by Max Cool, I went to BM3 myself to check and it does not claim to do such.

Finally, Bootmod (at least for the B series motors) claims they run the intercooler (Air to water) pump all the time - on the N series, they don't say how it's done
In this thread from 2022 from "....Street" it's stated that it's actually the water pump and fan are run in a "more aggressive manner" so maybe "overdrive" isn't the correct term, but the idea is there.

.....street.com/threads/mhd-tuning-coolant-target-question.8521/


FYI - no one here is talking about street anything - everything here is entirely track focused. He's already running max cool mode, an upgraded oil cooler, upgraded radiator, and upgraded auxiliary radiator and none of them are solving the problem. The only thing he hasn't tried is using a bypass or lower temp thermostat for the oil.

Thanks for clarifying.

Most of his logs I dont see much to be concerned about to be honest

The only log I see with high coolant temps is the top summit log with coolant hitting 238f. That's too high and oil is getting beyond stock thermostat range too. Cooling capacity is limited there. Coolant temps will start causing power reduction in another couple degrees... but he did survive the session without issue it looks like and did not hit that thermal threshold.

Im not reading back through this whole thread but looks like he retrofitted the s55 water to air cooler? Iats are really nice.The n55 doesn't use a water to air cooler so can't speak on its performance. Looks like it could use an upgrade since coolant is overwhelmed.... and the automatic also takes a lot of room away from the radiator. I am a manual and I see autos have significanty harder time with temps. Maybe decouple the transmission from the radiator and free up that radiator capacity for coolant.

But maybe the water to air cooler is doing too much duty in keeping iats down if that's what he's running... I would sacrifice iats for better coolant temps all day.