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M2 Technical Topics > Suspension | Brakes | Chassis > Monster DIY: KW V3, torque specs, re-indexing, spacers, alignment, coilovers install

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      03-23-2019, 09:51 PM   #23
Anthony1s
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mosely View Post
Regarding the lube thing, I meant just for adjusting the perches. A little degreaser afterwards to clean things up, agreed you don't want to attract dirt but it also doesn't matter once you're happy with height. Next time I take them off will be if they fail or when I sell the car/upgrade coils and KW even include the instructions on cleaning above the perch, then slide up and clean below, before making large adjustments. Thinking about it actually, I'd rather a little dirt stick to a non-moving part than rust develop.

Not sure why KW recommend removing to adjust, its quite easy once you get it moving to do it on the car and the only thing turning is the adjustment collar.

Edit: Here is the final stance, just a quick cell shot

They're billet aluminium, they won't rust. Your car's looking quite good though. I think it's a little lower than mine.
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      03-23-2019, 11:04 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Anthony1s View Post
They're billet aluminium, they won't rust. Your car's looking quite good though. I think it's a little lower than mine.
Good to know and thanks! Was worried I might get some rubbing but so far so good even fully loaded. Love the way it turned out and can't believe I didn't do this sooner.
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      03-24-2019, 09:09 AM   #25
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Great write up and the car looks stunning. I can't wait till spring and order mine and put it on.
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      03-24-2019, 01:22 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Anthony1s View Post
Yea, we were on the phone with them for a while about that stuff and how the rears are adjusted. They stand by their instructions and product saying that's the best way to do it. Even though on other versions of their coilovers, they have a nut at the bottom of the perch to adjust them without removing the perch. Not sure if that nut was on an old design that they found a flaw in and removed it from future versions... or if that design was only for a different vehicle. They wouldn't provide details or answer any questions we had about why there isn't a nut on the bottom of the M2 perches and how their rear adjustment makes no sense and is purposelessly difficult. They just kept insisting that their instructions were correct and the best way to design and go about it.... which is why I ended up getting slots cut into my perches.
To be fair, it is pretty difficult to get the c-spanner onto the adjusting ring when setting lower ride heights, and you probably don't want the whole perch to move against the body shell.
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      03-24-2019, 07:16 PM   #27
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Incredible write up and information! For all the screws and bolts - are most included in the kit that's recommended with the MP coilovers? I think getbmwparts has it for $75 or so.

Thanks!
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      03-25-2019, 01:24 PM   #28
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Well, noting that re-indexing doesn't appear to be a requirement for the amount of lowering that BMW recommend with the MPS, possibly not.
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      03-25-2019, 02:08 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M Fifty View Post
Well, noting that re-indexing doesn't appear to be a requirement for the amount of lowering that BMW recommend with the MPS, possibly not.
If taking that route, at a minimum I would say replace the the rear shock-camber arm bolt/nut and the pinch bolt for the front strut mount. I'm fine re-indexing for peace of mind and because of how (relatively) inexpensive it is.
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      03-25-2019, 02:28 PM   #30
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Oh, the set of bolts/nuts that BMW say you need covers those. But it also includes the nut that holds the front strut to the top mounts though - even though the MPS comes with that.

Your list is good.
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      03-25-2019, 05:31 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M Fifty View Post
Oh, the set of bolts/nuts that BMW say you need covers those. But it also includes the nut that holds the front strut to the top mounts though - even though the MPS comes with that.

Your list is good.
Just to be clear are you referencing my post? I attached the option of the required hardware that goes along with the MPS.
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      03-25-2019, 06:16 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mhanism View Post
Just to be clear are you referencing my post? I attached the option of the required hardware that goes along with the MPS.
Mosely's post for the stuff you really need.

Basically only fasteners that require a torque setting plus - say - a quarter turn are torque to yield. The rest are locknuts - without the nyloc.

HTH
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      03-25-2019, 06:17 PM   #33
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I would still - strongly suggest - using new nuts and bolts on anything you undo, it's just that you don't have to undo quite as much as the fastener kit suggests.
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      03-25-2019, 08:40 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M Fifty View Post
Mosely's post for the stuff you really need.

Basically only fasteners that require a torque setting plus - say - a quarter turn are torque to yield. The rest are locknuts - without the nyloc.

HTH
I also missed one, both of the rear upper wishbones need a new bolt/nut (for re-indexing), otherwise if you're skipping the re-indexing, just replace what I mentioned above.

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      03-28-2019, 07:26 PM   #35
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Just realized I do have a picture of mine lowered. Quick pic taken the day I picked it up. I think it's a bit high. I gave him the Dinan recommended heights to set it to.

Original plan was to lower it as much as it can without rubbing on 265/35 and 285/35 sottozero winter tires (cause I think they are slightly bigger than the 265 285 Pilot 4S that I run in summer) but I didn't get a chance to put them on this winter before the suspension upgrades. So before next winter I'm gonna lower it more. Besides, after all I've been through the last 8 months, I just want time to enjoy my car for a bit.

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      03-29-2019, 01:49 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Anthony1s View Post
Just realized I do have a picture of mine lowered. Quick pic taken the day I picked it up. I think it's a bit high. I gave him the Dinan recommended heights to set it to.

Original plan was to lower it as much as it can without rubbing on 265/35 and 285/35 sottozero winter tires (cause I think they are slightly bigger than the 265 285 Pilot 4S that I run in summer) but I didn't get a chance to put them on this winter before the suspension upgrades. So before next winter I'm gonna lower it more. Besides, after all I've been through the last 8 months, I just want time to enjoy my car for a bit.

Any spacers with 437m cw 265/285 combo ?
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      03-29-2019, 03:15 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bee Pee View Post
Any spacers with 437m cw 265/285 combo ?
That pic is with 255/275 Conti 5P's with 5mm spacers. I don't plan on using spacers when I swap to 265/285, but I'm not against putting them on if I think it needs it. We'll see in the future.

Here's a better pic of how it is for now.

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      04-05-2019, 09:49 AM   #38
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So how are the nuts that are removed with a pass-through socket re-torqued?
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      04-05-2019, 03:18 PM   #39
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Well, from personal experience, once you've got the nut snug using an Allen Key on the strut shaft and a pass-through socket, it's then possible to just use a Torque Wrench on the nut.

Putting the torque wrench on the Allen Key also works, but be careful.

HTH

Edit: The KW/MPS uses a 10mm hex on the front strut shaft as the adjuster runs down the middle.

Also, when I say 'use a Torque Wrench on the nut' I mean use a Torque Wrench on the pass through socket. Otherwise, as before.

Last edited by M Fifty; 04-06-2019 at 03:31 AM.. Reason: I really should pay attention...
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      04-06-2019, 12:28 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mleroux View Post
So how are the nuts that are removed with a pass-through socket re-torqued?
For 18mm and greater I use the ECS/Schwaben set where you can attach your torque wrench to the socket itself.



For the 16mm one, I have the cheap Harbor Freight pass through kit. To torque it I put a 19mm crows foot on my torque wrench and grab the hex base of the pass through with it to torque it. This lets me still use the allen or torx hold down in the middle.
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      04-06-2019, 10:31 AM   #41
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I have Schwaben strut sockets and I must be one of the few people who doesn't care for them but I guess I have no choice. Crow's foot is a good idea... but there will be some math involved to determine the proper torque setting since you're offsetting the wrench.

Found this.
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      04-06-2019, 03:43 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FaRKle! View Post
For 18mm and greater I use the ECS/Schwaben set where you can attach your torque wrench to the socket itself.



For the 16mm one, I have the cheap Harbor Freight pass through kit. To torque it I put a 19mm crows foot on my torque wrench and grab the hex base of the pass through with it to torque it. This lets me still use the allen or torx hold down in the middle.
I had one of these too but I don't think it works for the F87 because the inside is a 10mm hex and I couldnt find a 10mm that fits with the schwaben
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      04-06-2019, 11:38 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mleroux View Post
Crow's foot is a good idea... but there will be some math involved to determine the proper torque setting since you're offsetting the wrench.

Found this.
If you put the crows foot at a 90deg angle to the head of the wrench then you don't have to do any math. Set the torque and go.
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      04-07-2019, 11:45 AM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FaRKle! View Post
If you put the crows foot at a 90deg angle to the head of the wrench then you don't have to do any math. Set the torque and go.
You're so right! I feel stupid with that one haha.
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