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      03-05-2019, 09:21 PM   #199
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Originally Posted by F87source View Post
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Originally Posted by Poochie View Post
If what you're saying is true, explain to me why there are so many cases of hard shifting and gear grind?

There might be some play in travel from end of the pedal before it's considered fully engaged but it seems asinine to physically block out the linkage with some aftermarket washer, when there have been confirmed cases of shifting issues with this product and also when a part of vehicle's inherent lag is related to computer.

But like I said; to each is own - and yet another reminder why I would avoid ever buying a used, manual "boy racer" vehicle.

May God be with your synchros #RIP 👏🏻😇
It could be a bad clutch fluid bleed, cold transmission fluid, etc. Stock cars still grind and have hard shifts so your conclusion doesn't make a difference. I've owned so many manual cars that had shifting issues like this it's not even a shock for me. The evo X I had was by far the worse, and the only solution was the red line transmission fluid cocktail and a weighted titanium shift knob.

There is no linkage, it's a hydraulic clutch so all your doing is raising the clutch bottoming point. you're technically not blocking anything, you're just increasing the thickness of the factory clutch stop which the clutch pedal arm rests on when bottomed out. Why don't you look at some images of how the whole clutch pedal assembly before you start running to conclusions. The factory clutch stop is like 3mm thick the newer one is thicker which emulates the bottom out position being higher, which in effect is like not bottoming out the clutch. Like I said before there are reports of the cars having shifting issues bone stock as well, so blaming it all on the clutch stop is a statistical sampling bias.


100% agreed on your point of not buying a used car.


No need to worry about my synchros, I had a manual m235i that was time attacked with 550whp and 3 shims on the clutch stop without issues. Plus I've done actual testing on my end to make sure to the best of my ability the clutch is actually engaged, and am not an internet keyboard speculation warrior. When the clutch needs replacing I'll pull the transmission off to try and see if the throw out bearing has fully disengaged through clutch with a clutch stop in place. If anything the clutch stop has made the shifting smoother in all other gears, except the occasional 1-2 rough shift which also occured stock.
I respect your conviction to this product but as you're aware, the clutch releases is hydraulic; so you ever thought that maybe BMW engineered the dead pedal engagement with added layer of safety to weed out the possibility of air in the system or a certain amount of lower fluid per push to release clutch would be taken up by the extra slack.

I sincerely doubt there is a slight play built it the system just to mess with us..

Not going to go back and forth on this as we both have our own opinion on this product, I just to play it safe, as you roll the dice...

And thanks for opting for the manual, keeping the take rate up, regardless how you choose to use it.
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      03-05-2019, 09:33 PM   #200
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Poochie View Post
I respect your conviction to this product but as you're aware, the clutch releases is hydraulic; so you ever thought that maybe BMW engineered the dead pedal engagement with added layer of safety to weed out the possibility of air in the system or a certain amount of lower fluid per push to release clutch would be taken up by the extra slack.

I sincerely doubt there is a slight play built it the system just to mess with us..

Not going to go back and forth on this as we both have our own opinion on this product, I just to play it safe, as you roll the dice.
I wouldn't say it's conviction, I really didn't want to use it I just had no choice because I found that I wasn't hitting the clutch all the way down anyways due to the excessive clutch throw.

It could definitely be a safety for bubbles, but if that were the case they would need alot more dead space because I've had a badly bled clutch before and you could bottom out the pedal and it still wouldn't disengage. Or more likely they just did this so they didn't have clutch engagement at the bottom of the pedal stroke (which would feel super weird to drive). But most cars have this dead pedal probably because it would be alot of engineering work to figure out how far to make the pedal arm swing based on the pivot point and arm length, and they just made it go as far as possible without hitting the carpet.

Dead pedal throws also develop with age as the clutch wears and now you don't have to press the pedal as far to disengage the clutch. So I really doubt this is purposely engineered as all cars have this dead space, some worse than others.


Yeah playing it safe is the best way, but we are "all rolling the dice" if we decide to modify the car anyways, so it's all based on risk tolerance. But careful testing and research can mitigate alot of this unforeseen probability, so it is not all left to chance.

I wonder if there is a clutch inspection window on these cars, that would be easier to check engagement that way.
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      03-06-2019, 07:16 PM   #201
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Originally Posted by F87source View Post
I wonder if there is a clutch inspection window on these cars, that would be easier to check engagement that way.
I am wondering how you'll see if the clutch is fully disengaged when the transmission is off...
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      03-06-2019, 09:04 PM   #202
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I am wondering how you'll see if the clutch is fully disengaged when the transmission is off...
Excellent question, I have a few ideas how to tackle this but I'm not 100% sure if it will work, but it's worth a try when I have to swap the clutch anyways.

As you know the clutch, flywheel and pressure plate is bolted to the back of the engine and is still present when the transmission is pulled, what is removed however is the throw out bearing and transmission input shaft which is stuck to the transmission.

Methods:

1) clutch inspection window, I'm pretty sure BMWs don't have this but this would have been through easiest method.

2) What I wanted to do is measure the throw out bearing movement as a function of pedal travel to see how far the total range of travel of the throw out bearing is. Then measure the total range if motion the pressure plate tension spring bit (can't remember the proper name) has to move before the clutch can spin freely from the flywheel aka. fully disengaged. Then compare the two distances. If the tolerances are too close I'll try method 3.

3) pull the throw out bearing and clutch hydraulic assembly and try to attach it to the clutch and flywheel assembly without the transmission bell housing. This is probably going to be super difficult if it isn't removable or if the transmission input shaft doesn't pull out. Then I have to some how figure out how to secure it to the clutch and flywheel without play. From there it's just a matter of engaging the clutch and seeing how much dead space in the clutch throw.

Idk we will see what happens, but this summer I'm planning to put the car on jack stands and seeing how far the clutch needs to be engaged before the rear wheels stop spinning in first.
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      03-10-2019, 03:15 PM   #203
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Has anyone has any issues removing the BMS clutch stop after installation? I initially put it in at 2 shims and want to give 3 a try however I can't get the clutch stop back off the car.

I've been pulling pretty hard at it by hand, but wanted to see if there's any tips or tricks here before I take a set of pliers to it and likely snap it in half.
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      03-10-2019, 04:18 PM   #204
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Quote:
Originally Posted by schoobs View Post
Has anyone has any issues removing the BMS clutch stop after installation? I initially put it in at 2 shims and want to give 3 a try however I can't get the clutch stop back off the car.

I've been pulling pretty hard at it by hand, but wanted to see if there's any tips or tricks here before I take a set of pliers to it and likely snap it in half.
I usually pull it at an angle and wiggle it down. The initial part is a bit tighter.
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      03-10-2019, 06:35 PM   #205
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Quote:
Originally Posted by schoobs View Post
Has anyone has any issues removing the BMS clutch stop after installation? I initially put it in at 2 shims and want to give 3 a try however I can't get the clutch stop back off the car.

I've been pulling pretty hard at it by hand, but wanted to see if there's any tips or tricks here before I take a set of pliers to it and likely snap it in half.
Yeah it is really stuck in there, you've got to wobble it alot before it pops out.
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      03-11-2019, 08:32 PM   #206
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Thanks guys I'll give it another shot. Worst case scenario I'll have to splurge $10 for a new one!
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      03-11-2019, 10:32 PM   #207
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Quote:
Originally Posted by schoobs View Post
Thanks guys I'll give it another shot. Worst case scenario I'll have to splurge $10 for a new one!
Lol ikr!
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      03-12-2019, 02:15 PM   #208
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Originally Posted by schoobs View Post
Thanks guys I'll give it another shot. Worst case scenario I'll have to splurge $10 for a new one!
Don't you still have to take out the old one?

By the way, I installed this at 3 shims in my F80. Great mod. About 40k miles in this arrangement. No issues.
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      03-12-2019, 03:49 PM   #209
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Don't you still have to take out the old one?

By the way, I installed this at 3 shims in my F80. Great mod. About 40k miles in this arrangement. No issues.
Yeah but I think he wanted to a shim adjustment (adding or removing shims) that requires pulling out the BMS clutch stop.
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      03-16-2019, 11:15 AM   #210
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Just installed mine. Literally 30 seconds like someone else said. I have super short legs, and I have to reach with my toe to hit the bottom on the stock clutch stop. I only used 2 shims to start. I'm excited to see if it makes a difference!
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      03-21-2019, 02:59 PM   #211
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i have had this for a few weeks now. Best 10 dollar mod i have ever done.
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      03-21-2019, 03:45 PM   #212
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i have had this for a few weeks now. Best 10 dollar mod i have ever done.
Nice!
How many Sims are you using?
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      03-26-2019, 10:01 AM   #213
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I've driven in many cars throughout my life, and the clutch throw in the M2 is on-par with all of the (stock) cars I've driven. I drove my friend's M3 with this BMS clutch stop and could not tell a difference from my stock M2. You're all nuts.
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      06-06-2019, 02:25 AM   #214
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Originally Posted by M2 Alex View Post
I've driven in many cars throughout my life, and the clutch throw in the M2 is on-par with all of the (stock) cars I've driven. I drove my friend's M3 with this BMS clutch stop and could not tell a difference from my stock M2. You're all nuts.
It all varies from driver to driver, and how many shims is used with the clutch stop.

I wouldn't say "we're all nuts" but I would say we are more engaged and keen to small details versus than the average manual transmission driver.
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      08-09-2019, 04:21 PM   #215
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Drove 7000km with one shim, zero issues. 300km ago switched to two shims, no issues yet.
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      03-28-2020, 04:36 PM   #216
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Finally installed a BMS clutch stop. I definitely like it better over stock to take out that unnecessary dead zone, but makes exactly zero difference in my driving experience. I never depress the clutch pedal down far enough for it to make any difference other than maybe when at a complete stop.

Still better than stock, super cheap mod, and took me literally 15 seconds to install. I call that a win.
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      04-24-2020, 03:28 PM   #217
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anyone check the transmission window clutch test to see? gonna install one washer today i guess...
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