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      03-21-2020, 08:18 PM   #155
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Originally Posted by O8E92M3 View Post
I recently figured that almost everyone has their under-tray plastic cover cut after installing the Dinan FMIC (for air to escape?) and I'm pretty sure mine is not.

Do you think it would make a significant difference?
It should. Otherwise thereís no where for the air to exit thru the first core bc of the baffle between the cores.

Iíd def get the undertray cut.
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      03-22-2020, 05:00 AM   #156
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Originally Posted by O8E92M3 View Post
I recently figured that almost everyone has their under-tray plastic cover cut after installing the Dinan FMIC (for air to escape?) and I'm pretty sure mine is not.

Do you think it would make a significant difference?
It should. Otherwise there's no where for the air to exit thru the first core bc of the baffle between the cores.

I'd def get the undertray cut.
Just checked, it's actually cut and I never noticed 🙆🏻
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      03-22-2020, 05:02 AM   #157
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Quick question, which I concede might be missing the point: If the problem is cooling and it's preventing you from running a full track session, why not detune the engine so it generates less heat? By all means keep the enhancements that aid cooling, but take everything else off.

You won't have the enhanced top end and acceleration you crave, but you might be able to drive it as hard as you want for an entire session (noting the usual advice about a couple of cool-down laps).
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      03-22-2020, 08:23 AM   #158
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Originally Posted by M Fifty View Post
Quick question, which I concede might be missing the point: If the problem is cooling and it's preventing you from running a full track session, why not detune the engine so it generates less heat? By all means keep the enhancements that aid cooling, but take everything else off.

You won't have the enhanced top end and acceleration you crave, but you might be able to drive it as hard as you want for an entire session (noting the usual advice about a couple of cool-down laps).
Agreed.

When it comes to cooling you have two options: more capacity to remove the heat or generate less of it.

For me, I want to see the impact of my upcoming E45 tune. I’m thinking the outcome will be more power and similar temp issues on hot summer days. If I break down how to address this:

IAT- M2 version of the Evo III Comp if it ever comes out, or WMI.

Coolant- I already have the larger CSF & do88 main and aux radiators. I’m going to talk to my mechanic about running 100% water with some wetter in the summer to improve thermal transfer. The question will be at what point will the water start to boil based on system pressure. And, I’ll use the BM3 max cool mode, but that might only buy me an extra lap from some additional precooling.

Oil- I already have the larger CSF oil cooler. Tyspeed and some other race car guys put a larger oil cooler in front of the radiator and remove the oil/coolant cross flow exchanger. I’d prefer not to do this bc it has implications for a winter driven street car.

Turbo- A larger turbo at the same power levels will generate less heat. Altho, it will have more lag for street driving.

Tune- Turn it down to generate less heat. Certainly the cheapest & easiest fix. Altho, I’m still in an annual track battle with my Uncle and his Turner Motorsports prepped supercharged 2009 M3 (650-hp, full BBK & suspension, aero, etc).

We’ve been able to cut our CMP track times by >6-sec in our last three annual battles while remaining neck & neck by upgrading and optimizing our setups each year, which is really pretty amazing. This year I’ll have more power, 30lbs less rotational & unsprung from my new wheel/tire combo, and I’ll sneak remove the back seat before I show up, so if we get into the 1:44s on CMP, that’s damn fast for a heavy street car that’s not on slicks—especially in the summer!

If I weren’t battling a 650-hp car (albeit, much heavier, and I get him under braking and corner entry) in the middle of a South Carolina summer, there’d be less focus on power and heat management.

Hell, one of the guys with a tuned M4 was having to dial back his power bc of heat issues. So, we’re not being slouches on track.

The car runs fine for long open track sessions when ambient is <80F, I’m just enjoying trying to figure out how to make it work in the most extreme conditions, as well.

Last edited by ZM2; 03-22-2020 at 10:12 AM..
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      04-29-2020, 11:04 PM   #159
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Have you also considered the installation of a a water methanol kit? Personally I've found it's help and made a difference in my neck of the temperate woods.

I've been running a 51/49 blend from by works and the car has been great especially during hot days.
I have a very noob question, does running water methanol have any detrimental side effects on the vehicle's heads? The main reason I am asking is because my buddy with an M2 installed the same kit on his vehicle and his heads have blown. I am of the suspicion that his damages are from the turbo upgrade on his vehicle without a reflash along with insufficient fueling (i.e. HPFP).

I've been running the Snow Performance system in my vehicle since Aug 2018 and have used it probably less than 10 times on a 50/50 blend to date because of his claim.
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      04-30-2020, 01:29 AM   #160
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m2rs4_official View Post
I have a very noob question, does running water methanol have any detrimental side effects on the vehicle's heads? The main reason I am asking is because my buddy with an M2 installed the same kit on his vehicle and his heads have blown. I am of the suspicion that his damages are from the turbo upgrade on his vehicle without a reflash along with insufficient fueling (i.e. HPFP).

I've been running the Snow Performance system in my vehicle since Aug 2018 and have used it probably less than 10 times on a 50/50 blend to date because of his claim.
I've not heard anything like that, but I have heard about issues from too much of an E-blend for gas, because it can remove the oil coating from cylinder walls and valve train etc.

It's unclear what you mean by 'heads have blown'... Do you mean the head gasket? That is possible, but more likely due to running too much boost.

I run 50:50 WMI on my car every single day. I have the Aquamist progressive system so it comes on progressively based on a combination of boost and injector duty cycle (mostly duty cycle). I use it to increase octane, and for cooling.

It seems strange to me that you've used it less than 10 times. You're either tuned for it or you're not. It doesn't increase power output on its own, unless the map you're running is actually for a higher octane and you letting the DME turn down timing etc., which isn't a good idea anyway.

I'd say that it may actually be good for the engine, but you should have it on all of the time, and tune for that.
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      04-30-2020, 11:37 AM   #161
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i use MHD's software to run the water pump a lot faster than stock, even when i'm pushing the car hard i don't see oil temps higher than 110C and that's if i'm really beating it up. My car likes to sit around 89c 92c on most days.
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      04-30-2020, 12:09 PM   #162
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Originally Posted by The_otherM235i View Post
i use MHD's software to run the water pump a lot faster than stock, even when i'm pushing the car hard i don't see oil temps higher than 110C and that's if i'm really beating it up. My car likes to sit around 89c 92c on most days.
I don't have engine cooling issues unless it's a 90F+ open track day and I'm doing >25min sessions. Are you talking about tracking or driving around town?

Are you sure MHD is actually running the pump faster than stock when the car is hot, vs just kicking in higher water pump speeds as the car is heating up? If that later, that would just buy an extra lap or two by keeping the car a little cooler in the beginning of a track session.
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      04-30-2020, 12:11 PM   #163
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Quote:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The_otherM235i View Post
i use MHD's software to run the water pump a lot faster than stock, even when i'm pushing the car hard i don't see oil temps higher than 110C and that's if i'm really beating it up. My car likes to sit around 89c 92c on most days.
I don't have engine cooling issues unless it's a 90F+ open track day and I'm doing >25min sessions. Are you talking about tracking or driving around town?

Are you sure MHD is actually running the pump faster than stock when the car is hot, vs just kicking in higher water pump speeds as the car is heating up? If that later, that would just buy an extra lap or two by keeping the car a little cooler in the beginning of a track session.
All I know is that if I set it to stock, my water temperatures are much higher everywhere even with just normal driving, my coolant temp will be in the 100c range.

If I use MHDs "track" setting it keeps the coolant at 82c across the board all the time, hense keeping my oil ALOT cooler.
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      04-30-2020, 12:23 PM   #164
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The_otherM235i View Post
All I know is that if I set it to stock, my water temperatures are much higher everywhere even with just normal driving, my coolant temp will be in the 100c range.

If I use MHDs "track" setting it keeps the coolant at 82c across the board all the time, hense keeping my oil ALOT cooler.
I'm assuming MHD and BM3's higher cooling modes work similarly, but I don't know for sure.

I don't run BM3's Max Cool mode around town b/c oil & coolant temps stay within normal operating ranges anyways, but I'll be trying it when I get back on track later this summer to see just how long it'll prolong the inevitable.

Again, I'm guessing it'll only buy an extra lap or so by cooling things off a bit more before going full tilt on track.
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      04-30-2020, 12:25 PM   #165
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZM2 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by The_otherM235i View Post
All I know is that if I set it to stock, my water temperatures are much higher everywhere even with just normal driving, my coolant temp will be in the 100c range.

If I use MHDs "track" setting it keeps the coolant at 82c across the board all the time, hense keeping my oil ALOT cooler.
I'm assuming MHD and BM3's higher cooling modes work similarly, but I don't know for sure.

I don't run BM3's Max Cool mode around town b/c oil & coolant temps stay within normal operating ranges anyways, but I'll be trying it when I get back on track later this summer to see just how long it'll prolong the inevitable.

Again, I'm guessing it'll only buy an extra lap or so by cooling things off a bit more before going full tilt on track.
Yeah I agree, I drive my car pretty hard almost all the time after warm up, temps come down faster but once I've been giving it the beans for a little bit oil temps stay in the mid 90s...
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      04-30-2020, 09:10 PM   #166
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nezil View Post
I've not heard anything like that, but I have heard about issues from too much of an E-blend for gas, because it can remove the oil coating from cylinder walls and valve train etc.

It's unclear what you mean by 'heads have blown'... Do you mean the head gasket? That is possible, but more likely due to running too much boost.

I run 50:50 WMI on my car every single day. I have the Aquamist progressive system so it comes on progressively based on a combination of boost and injector duty cycle (mostly duty cycle). I use it to increase octane, and for cooling.

It seems strange to me that you've used it less than 10 times. You're either tuned for it or you're not. It doesn't increase power output on its own, unless the map you're running is actually for a higher octane and you letting the DME turn down timing etc., which isn't a good idea anyway.

I'd say that it may actually be good for the engine, but you should have it on all of the time, and tune for that.
Thank you Neilz for your feedback. My mistake.... my buddy blew / burnt his head gasket on his vehicle. The vehicle has been mapped for the WMI 50/50 blend courtesy of Wedge Performance but haven't really used much of it just because I was a tad worried.

Given your advise, i'll be sure to run my WMI on a progressive setup for daily use.
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      05-04-2020, 08:45 AM   #167
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Originally Posted by The_otherM235i View Post
i use MHD's software to run the water pump a lot faster than stock, even when i'm pushing the car hard i don't see oil temps higher than 110C and that's if i'm really beating it up. My car likes to sit around 89c 92c on most days.
Errrrrr how'd you manage that?
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      05-04-2020, 10:17 AM   #168
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Errrrrr how'd you manage that?
Itís an option in MHD, donít use it on the street though.
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      05-04-2020, 01:16 PM   #169
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Errrrrr how'd you manage that?
It’s an option in MHD, don’t use it on the street though.
I use it 24/7...
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      05-04-2020, 04:35 PM   #170
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I use it 24/7...
I donít know why you would. It should be used for actually track driving where you need the extra headroom. On the street, itís a waste of gas. It doesnít allow the engine to reach optimal temps
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      05-04-2020, 04:58 PM   #171
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I use it 24/7...
I don’t know why you would. It should be used for actually track driving where you need the extra headroom. On the street, it’s a waste of gas. It doesn’t allow the engine to reach optimal temps
What's optimal temp for you? My cars good to beat on at 90C
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      05-04-2020, 06:37 PM   #172
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What's optimal temp for you? My cars good to beat on at 90C
Mine is stock, so pretty hot. But thatís by design to increase fuel economy and lower emissions.
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      05-04-2020, 06:54 PM   #173
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Quote:
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What's optimal temp for you? My cars good to beat on at 90C
Mine is stock, so pretty hot. But that’s by design to increase fuel economy and lower emissions.
Yeah, I much rather keep the engine cool and have power on tap then to have to worry about heat soak. Fuel mileage isn't that important to me since it's my fun car
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      05-04-2020, 07:24 PM   #174
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Unless you’re seeing coolant above 242F and oil above 272F, IATs are more important to focus on to keep power levels up. Those engine temps are when the ECU begins to pull power.

However, timing begins to be pulled above 105F IAT, which is easy to hit. Speaking of IATs, I know someone with the new Evo 3 Comp on their M2 and the data looks mighty impressive.

He’s doing more testing and I won’t spoil the unveiling for him....
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      05-04-2020, 11:19 PM   #175
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Originally Posted by ZM2 View Post
Unless youíre seeing coolant above 242F and oil above 272F, IATs are more important to focus on to keep power levels up. Those engine temps are when the ECU begins to pull power.

However, timing begins to be pulled above 105F IAT, which is easy to hit. Speaking of IATs, I know someone with the new Evo 3 Comp on their M2 and the data looks mighty impressive.

Heís doing more testing and I wonít spoil the unveiling for him....
Iím already full send on the VRSF race, but more data doesnít hurt. But for $1,300 - it would have to be amazing, and knowing the hardware specs Iím a bit doubtful.
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      05-04-2020, 11:39 PM   #176
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Iím already full send on the VRSF race, but more data doesnít hurt. But for $1,300 - it would have to be amazing, and knowing the hardware specs Iím a bit doubtful.
Mount that heavy tank of an IC up and get some logs. Weíll compare.
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