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      09-05-2018, 06:06 PM   #1
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DIY For LCI Instrument Cluster Retrofit

This is a DIY guide for any of you retrofitting an LCI instrument cluster in your 2016/2017 Pre-Lci M2.

First thing you'll need is the instrument cluster itself. It costs around $975.

This is the US part #:



(I believe the KPH cluster is part # 62108095725 but please double check this)

If you want to make your life easy you can buy it from IND with a coding package included:

https://ind-distribution.com/product?sku=IND-F87LCI-GCR

I bought mine here:

https://www.schmiedmann.com/

If you source the part and coder yourself you can save ~$200 so that's what I'd reccomend doing.

Anyway once you've ordered the cluster and have it in your possession you will need:

1. A torx wrench set

2. A plastic pry tool

3. Someone to code your car for you

Keep in mind you may have to lower and raise your steering wheel multiple times in order to get the best angle you need during this installation. (you can do this with the lever on the steering wheel column)

Now that you have everything you need let's begin.

Start by unscrewing these two torx bolts on the inside top part of the cluster:



Depending on your current steering wheel height you may have to lower it to have the room you need to fit the torx wrench in there.

Once you have the two screws out you can grab your pry tool and start prying the top of the cluster out. I placed it in between the two torx holes and then used my fingers to pull it down towards myself. You'll want to pull down from the top of the cluster.

Be careful when prying and pulling as there are 2 connections in the rear of the cluster you do not want to damage or rip out:



The area is tight and dark so it might help to use a flashlight or cell phone flash to help with visibility.

The colorful wired connection should just pull out with force while the black and green optical connection has a plastic clip you need to press to release. Once you have these two cables unplugged from the back of the cluster you can raise your steering wheel back up because you will now have to squeeze the cluster through the top gap in the wheel like so:



As you can see I turned it sideways and face down to get it out. If for some reason it isn't fitting it means your steering wheel is at the wrong height. Trust me it will come out easily when you have your wheel in the right setting.

(I actually totally forgot the wheel can pull towards you as well so if you just do that it will probably come out easier then doing it the way I did it in the photo)

Now just set your old cluster aside and do everything in reverse.

Take the new cluster and push it through the same gap and plug the cables back in the same areas.

Getting the new cluster through the steering wheel will be a little easier as it's much thinner than the Pre-LCI one. Plugging it back in will be a little tricky though as the wires are not very long, space is tight, and visibility is poor.

Once plugged in make sure to test your connections. Press the start button and make sure the cluster lights up:



You'll get a TON of warning lights and errors but don't panic, this is normal. The car still has to be coded.

Once you're sure you have power going to the cluster you can shut off accessory mode and line up the cluster with the bottom of the dash. Once you're sure it's sitting correctly just push the top up so the holes align with the screws you removed earlier. Reinstall the torx bolts and your physical install is done.

You will of course still need to code the car...

https://www.motor-talk.de/forum/akti...hmentId=722387

Since I didn't have this info at the time what I ended up doing was outsourcing the coding to a professional coder who did it for me remotely. Using a laptop with windows on it, an ENET cable, Virtual Box, TeamViewer and ESYS he was able to have it remotely coded for me in 5-10 min. Easy peezy. Only downside to this is that it was an additional cost of ~$150.

Also, I'm sure a question I'll get is "can the coding be done in bimmercode?" and the answer is no. It must be done in ESYS.

Anyway once the coding is complete you should be up and running error free:



If you have any error messages showing up in idrive don't panic. Just reset the date and time and any service intervals that may have been triggered and you'll be good to go. (You can reset service lights by putting the car in accessory mode and pressing and holding the milage reset button and then scrolling through the menu).

And there you go, all done!

My total cost for the project came out to $1112.19

Just wanted to finish by giving a big thank you to TXSurfer who helped me through this entire process. Really appreciate it

And yeah...that's it. If you guys have any other questions feel free to ask below. Cheers.

Last edited by AndrewC1989; 03-11-2020 at 11:53 PM..
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      09-06-2018, 04:23 AM   #2
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      09-06-2018, 07:48 AM   #3
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Anyone done pre-LCI OG M2 cluster update using M2C parts yet ?
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      09-06-2018, 10:15 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bee Pee View Post
Anyone done pre-LCI OG M2 cluster update using M2C parts yet ?
Not sure why anyone would even attempt this as the M2C cluster most likely isn't 100% compatible with the N55 M2.

Not to mention you'd probably get a fuckton of errors and warnings since It wouldn't function properly.
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      09-06-2018, 10:38 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewc89 View Post
Not sure why anyone would even attempt this as the M2C cluster isn't compatible with the N55 M2.
Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewc89 View Post
Not to mention you'd probably get a fuckton of errors and warnings since It wouldn't function properly.
Reads like you know way more than me on this - can you expand why M2C cluster wouldn't work as an upgrade to a pre-LCI cluster, given LCI OG m2 cluster works wo issue once coded....
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      09-06-2018, 11:24 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bee Pee View Post
Reads like you know way more than me on this - can you expand why M2C cluster wouldn't work as an upgrade to a pre-LCI cluster, given LCI OG m2 cluster works wo issue once coded....
I haven't tried it myself so I don't have any 1st hand evidence to present to you, but looking at it logically you can immediately see the potential issues that arise. The Pre-LCI and LCI M2 are both N55 cars. There weren't any major changes made between them. The M2C is a completely different story. It has an S55 so you have different driving modes, displays, a different tach and speedo with different redlines...




Sure the screen at the bottom is digital but the rest of the gauge isn't. Given the physical differences and changes between the two, It's very unlikely it would be able to function as intended in an N55 car. How would you even code it? You have M2C hardware that would be using standard M2 coding. Then, assuming the wiring is even the same, at the very least you'd be missing a few display lights in the cluster and/or have a few extra one's that are there but are totally unusable. And that's the best case scenario. In all likelihood a majority of the hardware it simply won't work, and even if it does it might not display the information correctly since it would be calibrated for a different car/engine. You probably wouldn't be able to tell what driving mode you're in, how fast you're going or what rpm you're at. All for what? The logo that says M2 instead of M?

Also keep in mind, once you mate a cluster to a car the vin and milage stay with it. You won't just be able to buy an M2C gauge, plug it in, code it, see if it works and resell it or return it if you have issues. Once it's plugged in and coded it's no longer able to adapt to someone else's vehicle without taking it apart and soldering a new chip onto it. So unless you have $1000 to waste and a shit load of time on your hands to conduct this experiment you're much better off just getting the N55 LCI cluster. Aesthetically It's almost identical to the M2C gauge and it'll function 100% with 0 compatibility issues. It's a no brainer.

Last edited by AndrewC1989; 09-06-2018 at 03:46 PM..
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      09-06-2018, 11:44 AM   #7
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Great write up!
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      09-06-2018, 01:03 PM   #8
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Good info. Now someone needs to figure out how to code this through the bimmercode app.
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      09-12-2018, 05:04 PM   #9
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Does the LCI cluster have a oil/coolant temp gauge on it?
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      09-12-2018, 05:15 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by booya_45 View Post
Does the LCI cluster have a oil/coolant temp gauge on it?
The Pre-Lci cluster has an oil/coolant combo gauge with no numbers



LCI cluster has oil temp only but has numbers

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      09-12-2018, 05:28 PM   #11
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That’s respectable. What about transferring miles? Can you update new LCI cluster to have current miles?
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      09-12-2018, 05:37 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by booya_45 View Post
That’s respectable. What about transferring miles? Can you update new LCI cluster to have current miles?
It does it automatically, but only if you purchase a new unused cluster.
If you buy a used one the miles will not sync b/c each cluster is designed to only be able to mate to one VIN.
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      09-12-2018, 05:39 PM   #13
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Damn! This is good news. Great write up. If it’s this easy, I would update to LCI for the oil gauge alone. Installation seems straight forward except for the coding.

Any differences for a manual car that you know of or should it be the same?
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      09-12-2018, 05:42 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by booya_45 View Post
Any differences for a manual car that you know of or should it be the same?
It should be identical
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      09-14-2018, 12:30 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twin fed View Post
Good info. Now someone needs to figure out how to code this through the bimmercode app.
I'm pretty sure that in order to code the cluster you have to change a few things such as the vehicle order and production date. At least that's how it works with all the 6WB cluster retrofits people are doing on the other forums, and that stuff can't be done within Bimmercode, it requires ESYS.

Last edited by AndrewC1989; 03-12-2020 at 12:09 AM..
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      09-14-2018, 09:27 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewc89 View Post
I'm pretty sure that in order to code the cluster you have to change a few things such as the vehicle order and production date. At least that's how it works with all the 6WB cluster retrofits people are doing on the other forums, and that stuff can't be done within Bimmercode, it requires ESYS.

Also, after I completed the retrofit I noticed the Instrument Cluster ECU in Bimmercode is no longer supported:



This happened to SeanWRT as well so it's definitely not an anomaly on my part.

Since the app doesn't seem to be able to recognize the ECU once the VO and whatever else has been modified It just makes me doubt even more that it's possible to get this done within Bimmercode.

Oh well, thanks for the info.
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      09-17-2018, 09:05 PM   #17
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Next upgrade on the car right here! Love it! Great write up!
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      09-18-2018, 10:47 AM   #18
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IND-Distribution just made a vid as well

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      10-15-2018, 04:33 PM   #19
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      10-15-2018, 04:38 PM   #20
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Didn't realize how much I had in there! Cleared up now, thanks.
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      03-28-2019, 02:11 PM   #21
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Hi guys please help.
I rang an official BMW UK parts provider and they were helpful and were willing to order parts in for me from Germany.

SO I initially gave them this part code: 62108090142

This was a good code he said, it would even let him order it on the system and was 980 thereabouts but he couldn't say what the part was on his screen as it did not tell him.

I then asked to search for M2 LCI guage clusters and he came up with TWO part numbers. One was 'until July 2018' the second was 'after July 2018'.

So, the 'up to July 2018' part code is: 62108097792

AND

the 'after July 2018' part code is: 62108098269

Both were about 1100

I didn't want to take any more of his time as he was already being very helpful and obviously couldn't advise me which to order.
Clearly they must be MPH units and if you search the part numbers come across sites like this one but requires Czech to English translation via google.

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/cs/showp...diagId=62_0637

The stock gauges are not cutting it for me and are a downer, they are not easy to read at all in the day time. I would get the IND kit but shipping is crazy for some reason >$300, hopefully Ryan will get back to me on this.

Can I go wrong ordering either part, as long as it's MPH and LCI right it can be coded in presumably?

Is 'After July 2018' the M2C guage maybe?! (and would that even matter)

Last edited by 3t3p; 03-28-2019 at 02:16 PM..
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      03-28-2019, 07:45 PM   #22
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Hi, I can help. I just went through this whole situation. Strangely, the part # I used is different from either part # you listed. This part # I can guarantee is accurate for the M2 LCI gauge cluster (non-Competition): 62-10-8-097-793. It's MPH.

Link for reference: https://www.getbmwparts.com/oem-part...10-62108097793

Good luck.
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