[Lbsigman]

I tried to do some searching to see if anyone has posted a VOA of this stuff and it appears no one has. I did a VOA on this stuff fo no particular reason other than to fulfill my own curiosity. Feel free to chime in about it.

[F87source]

nice!

It has already been done on BOITOG iirc, and the conclusion over there is that bmw TPT 0w30 is very very stout robust oil - showing that tinner =/= mean bad oil or inadequate protection.


I am curious about how castrol's take on bmws TPT 0w30 will be though.

[Lbsigman]

Originally Posted by F87source

nice!

It has already been done on BOITOG iirc, and the conclusion over there is that bmw TPT 0w30 is very very stout robust oil - showing that tinner =/= mean bad oil or inadequate protection.


I am curious about how castrol's take on bmws TPT 0w30 will be though.

I tried looking for a VOA on BITOG but couldn’t find anything other than TPT LL-01 5W30, but thanks for letting me know.

[F87source]

Originally Posted by Lbsigman

I tried looking for a VOA on BITOG but couldn’t find anything other than TPT LL-01 5W30, but thanks for letting me know.

Hmm strange. But yes it is some really good stuff, so you don't need to worry about it, you can use this stuff throughout your warranty period and even track it without worry.

I know there is alot of people saying that it is just like "water" and you need thicker oil for better protection but that is not the case. Durability is based on HTHS, wear additives etc, not solely on oil weight. For eg. you can get a really good 30 weight oil with the same or maybe even better HTHS than a crap 40 weight oil.

If you street drive your car there will be no case in which you ever need thicker oil regardless of how hot your climate is. Because you will never be able to hit conditions on the street that will heat your oil up enough to warrant a thicker oil weight, and your oil cooler will take care of oil temperatures. If you think you need a thicker weight oil for street driving your oil cooler is either not working, you are making huge power (no ots map s don't count im talking super large turbo upgrades and if you have an s55 the oil cooler is so large this won't ever be an issue), or you live on Venus.


You can even track your car on bmw TPT because of how stout it is, although if heavily modded you should get a thicker oil with a better hths rating.

[edycol]

Originally Posted by F87source

nice!

It has already been done on BOITOG iirc, and the conclusion over there is that bmw TPT 0w30 is very very stout robust oil - showing that tinner =/= mean bad oil or inadequate protection.


I am curious about how castrol's take on bmws TPT 0w30 will be though.

The VOA you referring is done on TPT 5W30. EXTREMELY stout oil. This TPT 0W30 looks like an afterthought.

[edycol]

Several red flags, besides screaming it is oil made to save fuel:
1. Extremely low Zinc level would make me pause to use it on track.
2. Low KV100 (expected, but this is pushing it) begs question about oil pressure at very high engine temperatures on track.
3. Low flash point. That is big red flag for me as GTL is known as a base stock that has a high flash point. Low flash point also indicates higher Noack (evaporation loss).

IMO, regular Mobil1 5W30 Extended Performance from Wal Moart looks more stout.

[Lbsigman]

Originally Posted by F87source

nice!

It has already been done on BOITOG iirc, and the conclusion over there is that bmw TPT 0w30 is very very stout robust oil - showing that tinner =/= mean bad oil or inadequate protection.


I am curious about how castrol's take on bmws TPT 0w30 will be though.

I wonder if this is the new Castrol formulation with the inclusion of Titanium?

[F87source]

Originally Posted by edycol

Several red flags, besides screaming it is oil made to save fuel:
1. Extremely low Zinc level would make me pause to use it on track.
2. Low KV100 (expected, but this is pushing it) begs question about oil pressure at very high engine temperatures on track.
3. Low flash point. That is big red flag for me as GTL is known as a base stock that has a high flash point. Low flash point also indicates higher Noack (evaporation loss).

IMO, regular Mobil1 5W30 Extended Performance from Wal Moart looks more stout.

Listen to Edy on this.

[F87source]

Originally Posted by Lbsigman

I wonder if this is the new Castrol formulation with the inclusion of Titanium?

No clue. I haven't been following oil recently. I've been a bit busy with other mods, along with radar detectors.

[edycol]

Originally Posted by F87source

No clue. I haven't been following oil recently. I've been a bit busy with other mods, along with radar detectors.

It is. Titanium became Castrol signature.
But, the label on the back has changed. Before it would say it is made by SOPUS.
So, Group III based oil, very thin. Not my cup of tea by any means.

[gphung]

FYI I got 83-21-5-A2A-F99 (the PN on the back of OP's bottle) as part of my free oil change today. I'm located in Toronto.

Will probably swap it out for Pennzoil Platinum Euro 5w40 before my first track day.

[Juliana19]

Here in the UK I've been seriously struggling to find a decent S55 oil suitable for lots of track work. As we have OPF cars the oil needs to a mid/low SAPs oil and for warranty purposes LL04 approved.

This rules out 'most' 5w40 oils. I've settled on Redline 5w40, not sure on the general consensus of redline oils but it ticks the boxes in terms of weight and certification and seems to be more performance orientated. Only big draw back is it is extremely expensive in the UK (around ~ 170USD for 7litres of oil). You guy's seem to know a lot more about me so open to advice?

Previous to redline oil I've been using a basic fully synthetic 5w40 from a small UK manufacturer called rock oils which is LL04 and changing every 2 trackdays given I can but 20 litres for about 70 USD)

[edycol]

Originally Posted by Juliana19

Here in the UK I've been seriously struggling to find a decent S55 oil suitable for lots of track work. As we have OPF cars the oil needs to a mid/low SAPs oil and for warranty purposes LL04 approved.

This rules out 'most' 5w40 oils. I've settled on Redline 5w40, not sure on the general consensus of redline oils but it ticks the boxes in terms of weight and certification and seems to be more performance orientated. Only big draw back is it is extremely expensive in the UK (around ~ 170USD for 7litres of oil). You guy's seem to know a lot more about me so open to advice?

Previous to redline oil I've been using a basic fully synthetic 5w40 from a small UK manufacturer called rock oils which is LL04 and changing every 2 trackdays given I can but 20 litres for about 70 USD)

Redline Performance or Professional?
Performance is not approved! Professional is mediocre at best. It is rebadged Phillips66 Kendall line up.
Get Motul 5W40 X-Clean GEN2.

[M1500Z]

��*�� Slipping down the oily rabbit hole again. So the 0w30 oil that BMW is using currently for S55s is not acceptable for track day use? All of a sudden I have many questions. What is an acceptable oil for use on track in TX? Oil has got to be one of the most frustrating and confusing topics [to me].

Maybe a better question is what should I be looking for in an oil that meets BMWs requirements for warranty (this a thing?) and will have longer service intervals.

[EDWYER]

0 lead, nice.

[edycol]

Originally Posted by M1500Z

��*�� Slipping down the oily rabbit hole again. So the 0w30 oil that BMW is using currently for S55s is not acceptable for track day use? All of a sudden I have many questions. What is an acceptable oil for use on track in TX? Oil has got to be one of the most frustrating and confusing topics [to me].

Maybe a better question is what should I be looking for in an oil that meets BMWs requirements for warranty (this a thing?) and will have longer service intervals.

Under warranty?
Motul X-Cess 5-W40 GEN2
Pennzoil Platinum Euro 5W40

No more warranty?
If just light track day:
Castrol Edge 0W40

If push to limits at track:
Motul 5W40 Sport (you can maybe do 5k interval, do UOA).
Motul 5W40 300V (absolutely do UOA after 3k).
Redline 5W40 performance (absolutely do UOA after 3k).

In all instances you want to do UOA and get TAN measurement! TAN measurement is extremely important for oils that have a lot of ester like Motul Sport, 300 V (especially this one) and Redline performance series. On these oils you want to do both TBN and TAN. If TAN is lower than TBN after 3k, oil is still ok. If TAN is higher than TBN, too much oxidation. Ester is known to oxidize a lot. But, it is best for track/racing. So, with oils like that you really don't want to push OCI. If you don't track in winter, move to regular oils.
TX has high ambient temperature, but don't worry. It is lower altitude, and engines are going to do fine. Problems are here in CO, regardless of ambient temperature. Altitude is tricky when it comes to cooling.

[detroitm2]

Originally Posted by edycol

Under warranty?
Motul X-Cess 5-W40 GEN2
Pennzoil Platinum Euro 5W40

No more warranty?
If just light track day:
Castrol Edge 0W40

If push to limits at track:
Motul 5W40 Sport (you can maybe do 5k interval, do UOA).
Motul 5W40 300V (absolutely do UOA after 3k).
Redline 5W40 performance (absolutely do UOA after 3k).

In all instances you want to do UOA and get TAN measurement! TAN measurement is extremely important for oils that have a lot of ester like Motul Sport, 300 V (especially this one) and Redline performance series. On these oils you want to do both TBN and TAN. If TAN is lower than TBN after 3k, oil is still ok. If TAN is higher than TBN, too much oxidation. Ester is known to oxidize a lot. But, it is best for track/racing. So, with oils like that you really don't want to push OCI. If you don't track in winter, move to regular oils.
TX has high ambient temperature, but don't worry. It is lower altitude, and engines are going to do fine. Problems are here in CO, regardless of ambient temperature. Altitude is tricky when it comes to cooling.

You seem to know your stuff about oil. Myself, I'm a bit of a newb.

I just did my first DIY oil change on my 2018. I track the car probably about 6-8 weekends a year. Decided to go with Liquimoly Leichtlauf 5W40 as it was recommended by FCPEuro.

Thoughts?

[Lbsigman]

Originally Posted by Rodbearings

0 lead, nice.

It's a virgin oil analysis so there shouldn't be any lead, theoretically.

[M1500Z]

Originally Posted by edycol

Under warranty?
Motul X-Cess 5-W40 GEN2
Pennzoil Platinum Euro 5W40

No more warranty?
If just light track day:
Castrol Edge 0W40

If push to limits at track:
Motul 5W40 Sport (you can maybe do 5k interval, do UOA).
Motul 5W40 300V (absolutely do UOA after 3k).
Redline 5W40 performance (absolutely do UOA after 3k).

In all instances you want to do UOA and get TAN measurement! TAN measurement is extremely important for oils that have a lot of ester like Motul Sport, 300 V (especially this one) and Redline performance series. On these oils you want to do both TBN and TAN. If TAN is lower than TBN after 3k, oil is still ok. If TAN is higher than TBN, too much oxidation. Ester is known to oxidize a lot. But, it is best for track/racing. So, with oils like that you really don't want to push OCI. If you don't track in winter, move to regular oils.
TX has high ambient temperature, but don't worry. It is lower altitude, and engines are going to do fine. Problems are here in CO, regardless of ambient temperature. Altitude is tricky when it comes to cooling.

Thanks for recommendations and sharing the TAN/TBN bit—I'm not sure what those stand for so I'll need to learn me something. If you don't mind me asking, what's your background related to oils? What would you describe as a light track day vs. pushing it to the limits? I ask because I have used 300V in the past for race bikes, and wouldn't hesitate to use it or Sport in the car, but if 8100 would be OK, I can get a good deal on that oil.

For context, I've done 6 days at COTA in the last 1600 miles (rough math says that's ~860 miles on track) and have a couple days coming up over the next couple of months. These are pretty standard days where sessions are 25-30 minutes each. The frequency of track days will slow down over the summer for me due to the heat. I just don't enjoy being outside in 95°+ temps all day. And as of lately, the car doesn't get driven much between events—maybe the odd evening cruise or something similar.

[Lbsigman]

Originally Posted by M1500Z

Thanks for recommendations and sharing the TAN/TBN bit—I'm not sure what those stand for so I'll need to learn me something.

Here's a good read about TBN/TAN from Blackstone Labs: https://www.blackstone-labs.com/do-i-need-a-tbn/

[chris719]

Originally Posted by Lbsigman

It's a virgin oil analysis so there shouldn't be any lead, theoretically.

There's also no lead in the bearings anymore even if it were a UOA.

[edycol]

Originally Posted by detroitm2

You seem to know your stuff about oil. Myself, I'm a bit of a newb.

I just did my first DIY oil change on my 2018. I track the car probably about 6-8 weekends a year. Decided to go with Liquimoly Leichtlauf 5W40 as it was recommended by FCPEuro.

Thoughts?

Liqui Moly is OK. But, IMO not on par with Motul, Castrol, Pennzoil (Shell), Mobil1, etc.
FCPEuro is good company, I get stuff from them, but not oil.
I go Castrol 0W40 in summer, Edge 0W30 in winter. IMO Edge 0W30 A3/B4 is still best every day oil for Euro cars without DPF/GPF. It is not track oil, but exceptional in every other aspect.
I personally would run Castrol 0W40 instead of Liqui Moly.