[km111222]

Hi, wanted to know if anyone has experience with the CS diff, steering, and DSC software on their OGM2.

Is the difference in driving feel significant & is it worth it?

https://bimmer-remote.com/products/c...ing-dsc-for-m2

^this is the product I found, if anyone has used this specific one.

Thanks

[carchrism5]

Yes and yes.

There are other ways to get it. You can actually buy the protool and do it yourself, or find someone local that has it and do it.

[Joebie]

Yes, absolutely. The OG M2 is extremely restrictive even in sport+ mode and the CS software lets you get a little more wild with it before intervention. Well worth the money.

I didn't notice a huge difference with the steering.

[ThreeStripes]

Noticed a real difference in CS steering parameter, DSC parameter, but didn’t immediately notice the diff parameter in street driving. If you were tracking regularly the before and after diff coding would likely be noticeable as well.

I consider these three updates as musts for any OG F87.

I would add full-screen CarPlay, and coding on rear DRL to be on at all times to that same list.

[Andrew2]

Originally Posted by ThreeStripes

coding on rear DRL to be on at all times to

Is this something that is already inbuilt and can be activated by a dealer ?

[km111222]

Thanks for the input! I'll get this installed soon, and I think it'll make a difference for track days especially.

I've done the CarPlay & DRL coding already as well.

[ThreeStripes]

Originally Posted by Andrew2

Is this something that is already inbuilt and can be activated by a dealer ?

It’s simply a parameter that needs to be set via coding. Can’t speak to if a dealer will do this or not. May depend on the dealer? Regardless, dealing with dealerships is generally miserable so I recommend just getting BimmerCode and doing it yourself. It’s as easy as can be.

Get a Veapeak BLE+ OBD adapter for $20. Buy the app. And you’re off. You can code in other preferences like folding mirrors and iDrive off with door open.

The same adapter with the OnTrack OBD app delivers coolant/oil/iat temps via the CarPlay so it’s a double win.

[bmwstephen]

I paid dealer $350 (with CCA discount) to do a full I step coding on my OG. I presume it has the latest CS steering feel because how it feels now was not how I picked it up at 11k miles.

[philth]

Originally Posted by ThreeStripes

It’s simply a parameter that needs to be set via coding. Can’t speak to if a dealer will do this or not. May depend on the dealer? Regardless, dealing with dealerships is generally miserable so I recommend just getting BimmerCode and doing it yourself. It’s as easy as can be.

Get a Veapeak BLE+ OBD adapter for $20. Buy the app. And you’re off. You can code in other preferences like folding mirrors and iDrive off with door open.

The same adapter with the OnTrack OBD app delivers coolant/oil/iat temps via the CarPlay so it’s a double win.

So it’s possible to change the Steering/Diff/DCS with BimmerCode? Been reading a few [older] posts while doing research that BimmerCode is unable to access these things. Just want to confirm that it can or can’t before deciding on what to get for coding the car.

[F87source]

Originally Posted by philth

So it’s possible to change the Steering/Diff/DCS with BimmerCode? Been reading a few [older] posts while doing research that BimmerCode is unable to access these things. Just want to confirm that it can or can’t before deciding on what to get for coding the car.

No, bimmercode can't access those ECU's, protocol can.

Here's my review for protool: https://f87.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=2003707

I also have linked guides on how to code eps, dsc, and ghas.


So imo if you were to buy a coding app don't waste your money on anything else, get protool.



For the obd2 adapter don't waste your money on the cheap elm257 trash, and imo veepeak isn't much better. Get yourself a proper enet wifi adapter made specifically to interface with the bmw flex ray system. This gives you significantly faster connectivity (faster coding, faster flashing, faster ECU data reading) and the capability to access every single ECU on board. This opens the door to tuning possibility in the future as well as as the ability to connect to the car with bmw factory apps like ISTA.

If you buy a quality adapter like the bm3 adapter, you get password encryption and sleep mode so you can leave it plugged in without battery drain issues. Here's my review on that: https://f87.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=2025504

[philth]

Awesome info as per usual F87source!
Just have to get myself a cheapo android device.

[ThreeStripes]

Originally Posted by F87source

No, bimmercode can't access those ECU's, protocol can.

Here's my review for protool: https://f87.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=2003707

I also have linked guides on how to code eps, dsc, and ghas.


So imo if you were to buy a coding app don't waste your money on anything else, get protool.



For the obd2 adapter don't waste your money on the cheap elm257 trash, and imo veepeak isn't much better. Get yourself a proper enet wifi adapter made specifically to interface with the bmw flex ray system. This gives you significantly faster connectivity (faster coding, faster flashing, faster ECU data reading) and the capability to access every single ECU on board. This opens the door to tuning possibility in the future as well as as the ability to connect to the car with bmw factory apps like ISTA.

If you buy a quality adapter like the bm3 adapter, you get password encryption and sleep mode so you can leave it plugged in without battery drain issues. Here's my review on that: https://f87.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=2025504

That’s great info as always, but if you don’t have an android device and don’t want to spend BM3 adapter money the Veapeak BLE+ is cheap and works great with BimmerCode and OnTrack OBD.

Faster transfer rates sound great on paper but it’s not like the Veapeak is slow enough to even think about. With DaaP and Bimmer-Remote available I’m happy to leave ProTools alone and let them handle it what I would use ProTools for.

I’m normally team overkill but this is one of those things where it doesn’t make a meaningful difference to me. Glad to have it as an option I guess.

[F87source]

Originally Posted by philth

Awesome info as per usual F87source!
Just have to get myself a cheapo android device.

I recommend the galaxy tab A7 lite, it's super cheap and works fine. It's a tad bit slow, but if you disable or reduce animations and delete all the bloat ware it performs pretty good.

Originally Posted by ThreeStripes

That’s great info as always, but if you don’t have an android device and don’t want to spend BM3 adapter money the Veapeak BLE+ is cheap and works great with BimmerCode and OnTrack OBD.

Faster transfer rates sound great on paper but it’s not like the Veapeak is slow enough to even think about. With DaaP and Bimmer-Remote available I’m happy to leave ProTools alone and let them handle it what I would use ProTools for.

I’m normally team overkill but this is one of those things where it doesn’t make a meaningful difference to me. Glad to have it as an option I guess.

Yeah I understand the android only issue, but imo don't waste your money on a cheap adapter. Because if you ever want to tune your car you'll waste money buying a second adapter.

In terms of speed you absolutely notice it when loading really large modules, with a cheap obd2 adapter I used to wait upwards of 10-15 seconds, with the bm3 adapter it's essentially instant. Every bit matters when you're on battery power, as you don't want the car to drop low enough in voltage to make the coding process fail - which can brick things.

[ThreeStripes]

Touché. I did have to buy that wired OBD enet cable and can’t flash wirelessly now. I stand corrected.

Wish that BM3 adapter had been out 2-3yr ago when I started this journey.

[F87source]

Originally Posted by ThreeStripes

Touché. I did have to buy that wired OBD enet cable and can’t flash wirelessly now. I stand corrected.

Wish that BM3 adapter had been out 2-3yr ago when I started this journey.

Imo it's better to buy a quality albeit expensive part once, and never have to waste money doing it again.

[atlas]

I bought the BM3 wifi adapter and think it's a waste. I use Android and it's much easier to get the USB Ethernet ENET cable going.

I thought the BM3 adapter would be great for everything except you can't access the internet whilst connected to the adapter. So for things like logging whilst you're out driving it's very annoying.

[F87source]

Originally Posted by atlas

I bought the BM3 wifi adapter and think it's a waste. I use Android and it's much easier to get the USB Ethernet ENET cable going.

I thought the BM3 adapter would be great for everything except you can't access the internet whilst connected to the adapter. So for things like logging whilst you're out driving it's very annoying.

That's a valid point, but the issue with a cable is it's hard to route in a clean manner and you always end up with it running either across your legs or over the steering wheel - given you have your phone in the middle of the car. Otherwise it's going to run right up the side to the vent, but it'll never give you a clean cable free aesthetic. Then charging the device is also a pain if you don't have a splitter or wireless charging.

For me I just have a dedicated in car tablet that just lives in my m2 for logging, coding and flashing. My phone doesn't do that job, and thereby doesn't experience the constant screen on at near max brightness and battery drain every single time in the car. So it saves wear and tear on my phone and puts it on my cheapo tablet. Plus it's easier to read a tablet vs. a phone.

[fleetfoot]

I pretty much just use my m2 as a track car these days. I’ve got about 30 track days in the past 3 years, so I’m still an intermediate driver. I updated the steering and diff profiles to m2cs and removed the brake boost. The brake boost removal definitely improves brake feel and stability. The diff I can’t tell a difference while running in Sport+ on the track. The steering feel in Sport and Sport+ didn’t noticeably improve. However, the steering feel in Comfort is NOTICEABLY WORSE. It’s spooky and requires a lot of attention. I used to like Comfort if I was casually driving on the street, but now I avoid it because it’s exhausting. I may go back to default steering settings.

[donkey]

I coded the CS steering tonight. It kind of surprised me how much lighter it was in sport.

It seems more precise, but I think I prefer the default steering. Gonna give it some more time before I switch back.

[samsamdar]

I bought a OnePlus Nord N200 5G for 50 bucks from walmart lol - cheap asf and I have another backup phone now if I ever need it. Works great with ProTool and the BM3 wifi adapter.

[F87source]

Originally Posted by samsamdar

I bought a OnePlus Nord N200 5G for 50 bucks from walmart lol - cheap asf and I have another backup phone now if I ever need it. Works great with ProTool and the BM3 wifi adapter.

Holy moly $50?! Wish I could a gotten a phone that cheap. I got an A7 lite for $80 CAD with taxes.

[samsamdar]

Originally Posted by F87source

Holy moly $50?! Wish I could a gotten a phone that cheap. I got an A7 lite for $80 CAD with taxes.

lol I highly recommend you check the Walmart sales on prepaid phones