[FreeDarko]

Originally Posted by SEAT TIME RULES

My TC Kline Koni's with 400/700 lb springs include camber plates for $2990

Yes but run them thru couple of winters and see if it's worth it.

[M2 GT]

Is this for a track setup or just street? If track-oriented please call Barry at 3DM motorsports, he is the suspension guru and knows about Ohlins inside out. Stock Ohlins street manners were very good, but I wanted a more track-focused setup. I had my shocks custom valved and running 12kg/22kg springs currently; body roll mid-corner is significantly better now and still feels very controlled. Just give him a call, tell him Eric sent you and he will take care of you.

Originally Posted by m20e3087

I have narrowed it down to these two coil-overs, and got positive feedback on both systems from members and 3rd party retailers who sales them. Personally I don't know anyone running any of these on their M cars in my area, as majority runs KW or MP or just HAS.

Also for both systems it requires service after certain number of miles, which isn't a big deal to me. Warranty wise same as well, and build quality on both are solid.

Wanted to get some opinions who are running both systems and what made you choose one over the other.

[widetyres]

Originally Posted by Saanen

I dropped the spring rates by 10% (without re-valving) and went the next size up on my Michelin PS4S which brings the setup to close to stock stiffness on 20 clicks....and it is awesome on the track at 3 clicks.
Next: I bought the CF and aluminum braces and await a time with Nezil to install that setup.

Hey Saanen,

Have you run your Ohlins on any other tire than the PS4S? If so, what were they like compared to OEM suspension then?

Thanks.

[SEAT TIME RULES]

Originally Posted by FreeDarko

Yes but run them thru couple of winters and see if it's worth it.

I ran both my E36M3 and E46 M3's thru several winters here North of Boston.

Both had the TC Kline D/A Koni's and camber plates.

I had to replace the spherical bushings in the camber plates once on the E36M3. I also pulled the E36M3 Koni's at 70K and I had them revalved even though they were still all working fine. (changed Spg rates)

I Installed a set of JRZ's RS Pro's on my Miata RF Club drove it thru its first winter and both my fronts were leaking. Total cost to pull ship, rebuild and reinstall was $2K.

I installed a set of custom AST 5100's on my EVO and they never made it thru the 1st winter. I pulled them again after just another 8K miles Blown a 2nd time! Threw them in the trash.

The Motons I had didn't last more than 7K before a rebuild. I sold them right away.

The Ohlins R&T's i had on my EVO after the AST's never were pulled with 50+ track days, time trials and over 30 autocrosses and 6 winters on them.

Buy what you like but i've been messing around with suspensions for 30+ years now.

IMHE, the Koni's and Ohlins both are solid, long lasting options for our cars.

[FreeDarko]

Originally Posted by SEAT TIME RULES

I ran both my E36M3 and E46 M3's thru several winters here North of Boston.

Both had the TC Kline D/A Koni's and camber plates.

I had to replace the spherical bushings in the camber plates once on the E36M3. I also pulled the E36M3 Koni's at 70K and I had them revalved even though they were still all working fine. (changed Spg rates)

I Installed a set of JRZ's RS Pro's on my Miata RF Club drove it thru its first winter and both my fronts were leaking. Total cost to pull ship, rebuild and reinstall was $2K.

I installed a set of custom AST 5100's on my EVO and they never made it thru the 1st winter. I pulled them again after just another 8K miles Blown a 2nd time! Threw them in the trash.

The Motons I had didn't last more than 7K before a rebuild. I sold them right away.

The Ohlins R&T's i had on my EVO after the AST's never were pulled with 50+ track days, time trials and over 30 autocrosses and 6 winters on them.

Buy what you like but i've been messing around with suspensions for 30+ years now.

IMHE, the Koni's and Ohlins both are solid, long lasting options for our cars.

I honestly had the opposite experience with TC Klines.

All the parts except the Koni shocks rusted quickly. The springs kept binding and then learned they realized there was an error in the size with initial batch but requested I pay for shipping the replacement since I was located in Canada.

A lot of other brands have QC issues as well. Just stating my experience with TC Klines.

[SEAT TIME RULES]

Originally Posted by FreeDarko

I honestly had the opposite experience with TC Klines.

All the parts except the Koni shocks rusted quickly. The springs kept binding and then learned they realized there was an error in the size with initial batch but requested I pay for shipping the replacement since I was located in Canada.

A lot of other brands have QC issues as well. Just stating my experience with TC Klines.

You should of called TC directly. I've known him since 2001 when I first competed against him. Hes very CS oriented and he would have shipped you the springs.....Did you deal directly with TC?
The Springs on my M2 are treated with a White finish. No way they can rust.

[Saanen]

Originally Posted by widetyres

Hey Saanen,

Have you run your Ohlins on any other tire than the PS4S? If so, what were they like compared to OEM suspension then?

Thanks.

Yes the original Michelin PSS....that set up was a bit stiffer than stock, but awesome in regard to road manners (no more bounce)....I have the details on a different thread out there in regard to the spring rates I used but I believe it was 80 N/nm front and 160 N/nm rear

[HP Autosport]

Originally Posted by PLF69

If you want Ohlins, I suggest buying from 3DM Motorsports, they are aware of the bushing problem and also sell a kit with slightly lower rear springs with the perfectly dialed in revalved shocks.

The bushing problem was resolved months ago with an updated bushing.

[HP Autosport]

Originally Posted by SEAT TIME RULES

I've brought this point up on other Coilover threads.

Most of you aren't thinking about TCO (total cost of ownership)

I've run Koni's, AST's, Ohlin's, JRZ's & a set of Motons on various cars.

I've also gotten feedback from my fellow track drivers and instructors on KW's, MCS, Penske's, Bilsteins. MPS, and a few other brands...

The only shocks I've run that last are Koni's & Ohlins.

Every other brand I've tried or know of has required rebuilds in the 15-25K range. Pulling them, shipping and revalving is $2K or more. My JRZ"s on my ND Miata were rebuilt at 20K with both fronts leaking. I'm now at 45K and they need to be pulled a 2nd time. The AST's 5200's I ran had to be pulled off 2x's in less than 20K then I sold them. The Motons also were quickly pulled and sold.

The Ohlins I ran with 1000 lb springs on my EVO never were pulled in 85K and over 50 track days. My Koni's on 2 different M cars were revalved once in 125K. I have no idea how many track and SOLO days I had on them.

Are those other shocks faster??? Yup....if you need to chase a few tenths they are. Are they a better quality ride, thats all in the eye of the owner. I certainly think so.

All my cars were street driven and tracked/Auto X'd.

YMMV,
HAZMAT

You are dead on regarding the service life of the various dampers. As a retailer for most of the brands you have mentioned we have the least number of requests for servicing Ohlins and TC Kline(Koni based).

[SEAT TIME RULES]

Originally Posted by HP Autosport

You are dead on regarding the service life of the various dampers. As a retailer for most of the brands you have mentioned we have the least number of requests for servicing Ohlins and TC Kline(Koni based).

Appreciate the post sir...

I'll also add that IMHO the Ohlins are a slightly better damper than the Koni's.

Their DFV Tech is the difference between the two struts...That's why they can use higher spg rates than Koni. I was really impressed with how mine were on my EVO X with 900/1000 springs. They managed small & medium road bumps really, really well.

https://motoiq.com/how-does-the-ohlins-dfv-valve-work/

On the plus side with the Koni's they have both Compression and rebound adj. Also the softer spring rates allow me to eat up anyone I run against in the wet.

If your a serious track whore, and/or a Solo 2 hotshot chasing 0.10's of second by all means go buy one of the sexy shocks. Just understand the true cost of ownership when you pull out your credit card.

I really love my JRZ RS PRO's on my ND Miata with 650/350 lb spgs. That's when they are working :-)

[HP Autosport]

Originally Posted by SEAT TIME RULES

Appreciate the post sir...

I'll also add that IMHO the Ohlins are a slightly better damper than the Koni's.

Their DFV Tech is the difference between the two struts...That's why they can use higher spg rates than Koni. I was really impressed with how mine were on my EVO X with 900/1000 springs. They managed small & medium road bumps really, really well.

https://motoiq.com/how-does-the-ohlins-dfv-valve-work/

On the plus side with the Koni's they have both Compression and rebound adj. Also the softer spring rates allow me to eat up anyone I run against in the wet.

If your a serious track whore, and/or a Solo 2 hotshot chasing 0.10's of second by all means go buy one of the sexy shocks. Just understand the true cost of ownership when you pull out your credit card.

I really love my JRZ RS PRO's on my ND Miata with 650/350 lb spgs. That's when they are working :-)

The DFV's are more precise than the Koni's for sure.

The softer rates and Koni's may feel a bit soft and not as responsive in the dry, but you are totally right in the wet. You can run circles around guys on high spring rates with monotubes!

The high-end dampers are great when they are working. Keeping them working requires regular servicing. If you don't do your own work, it can get very expensive quickly.