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      12-03-2020, 09:59 AM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MR RIZK View Post
What doesn't work? Works fine in my M2C with the Match Up 7BMW.

The technic harness only loops the audio wires so there no reason it shouldn't work.

There was an issue years ago where the harness was pinned wrong but that was a long time ago.
Thanks for letting me know that it should work!

I'll try it again
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      12-03-2020, 10:40 AM   #46
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Has anyone had to swap the stock amp back for dealer visits?
I have an oil change tomorrow - just wondering if I need to do that.
Dealer said it's not a problem but I doubt they have a clue.
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      12-03-2020, 10:43 AM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by n8dgr84 View Post
Has anyone had to swap the stock amp back for dealer visits?
I have an oil change tomorrow - just wondering if I need to do that.
Dealer said it's not a problem but I doubt they have a clue.
Here's a direct quote from the guys at BavSound-- I just got an email responding to that question yesterday.....

"In regards to the stock amp, we do recommend keeping the factory amplifier around. It will need to be swapped back if the vehicle is under warranty and you will be going in for service, or if the vehicle will be getting any software upgrades."
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      12-04-2020, 05:56 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flybigjet View Post
Here's a direct quote from the guys at BavSound-- I just got an email responding to that question yesterday.....

"In regards to the stock amp, we do recommend keeping the factory amplifier around. It will need to be swapped back if the vehicle is under warranty and you will be going in for service, or if the vehicle will be getting any software upgrades."
Update:

Went to get oil changed today and dealer didn't notice that I had the UP7 installed.

I suppose it's only necessary to swap the amps when you have warranty-related service as opposed to regular maintenance.
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      12-04-2020, 06:08 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flybigjet View Post
Here's a direct quote from the guys at BavSound-- I just got an email responding to that question yesterday.....

"In regards to the stock amp, we do recommend keeping the factory amplifier around. It will need to be swapped back if the vehicle is under warranty and you will be going in for service, or if the vehicle will be getting any software upgrades."
That's a bit silly and the dealer would never even know, regardless of what service is getting done unless you tell them or they are physically going into that exact spot in the vehicle. It's a fully analog setup that would cause zero interface on any CAN or MOST lines. That said, it's still rare that they would even care.
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      12-04-2020, 06:15 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by n8dgr84 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by flybigjet View Post
Here's a direct quote from the guys at BavSound-- I just got an email responding to that question yesterday.....

"In regards to the stock amp, we do recommend keeping the factory amplifier around. It will need to be swapped back if the vehicle is under warranty and you will be going in for service, or if the vehicle will be getting any software upgrades."
Update:

Went to get oil changed today and dealer didn't notice that I had the UP7 installed.

I suppose it's only necessary to swap the amps when you have warranty-related service as opposed to regular maintenance.
In reality the only time you need to put the oem back in is if they will perform a istep upgrade or there is a complaint with the audio system.
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      10-28-2022, 07:59 PM   #51
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Did you have to use BimmerCode to turn on audio over the MOST network or did this just work? I’m stuck with red light going into my SDMI25, but no audio coming into my DSP.
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      10-28-2022, 10:25 PM   #52
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Originally Posted by LAFM2 View Post
Did you have to use BimmerCode to turn on audio over the MOST network or did this just work? I’m stuck with red light going into my SDMI25, but no audio coming into my DSP.
No coding is needed, audio is already there. I imagine it's the configuration with your dsp and/or amp.
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      10-28-2022, 11:28 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 6spdcoupe View Post
No coding is needed, audio is already there. I imagine it's the configuration with your dsp and/or amp.
Are you sure? I was pretty sure you have to code MOST on or you only get analog outputs from the NBT_EVO. I haven't tried it, so I could be wrong.
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      10-28-2022, 11:37 PM   #54
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Originally Posted by chris719 View Post
Are you sure? I was pretty sure you have to code MOST on or you only get analog outputs from the NBT_EVO. I haven't tried it, so I could be wrong.
If it's 676 HiFi then sure. I was just going by the thread title and assumed he has HK in which it would already be there. I could definitely be wrong though, if he doesn't actually have HK.
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      10-29-2022, 09:24 AM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 6spdcoupe View Post
No coding is needed, audio is already there. I imagine it's the configuration with your dsp and/or amp.
I’m assuming the same thing. I have triple checked all my settings in the helix dsp, but I’m surely missing something. I’ve sent an email to audiotec fisher to see if they can help.
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      10-29-2022, 10:55 AM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LAFM2 View Post
I’m assuming the same thing. I have triple checked all my settings in the helix dsp, but I’m surely missing something. I’ve sent an email to audiotec fisher to see if they can help.
Did you also connect the turn on lead? Signal sensing doesn't apply to digital input. Otherwise I would suspect it's your configuration in the IO.
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      10-29-2022, 12:57 PM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 6spdcoupe View Post
If it's 676 HiFi then sure. I was just going by the thread title and assumed he has HK in which it would already be there. I could definitely be wrong though, if he doesn't actually have HK.
HK in the F22/F87 is S674A which has analog differential output to the amp in the rear, not MOST. Makes sense to me you would have to code it on.
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      10-29-2022, 02:43 PM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris719 View Post
HK in the F22/F87 is S674A which has analog differential output to the amp in the rear, not MOST. Makes sense to me you would have to code it on.
My apologies then- it was more assumptions on my part as well as not realizing which forum I was in. The assumption though also makes it a bit odd as in why is there a need for an SDMI then? That's a clean, flat, 5V signal that is Very usable.

I get trying to use the Helix DAC but unless this is a really revealing, higher end build the difference will be negligible and there is still the option to use HEC-USB direct from a chosen device.
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      10-30-2022, 10:41 AM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 6spdcoupe View Post
My apologies then- it was more assumptions on my part as well as not realizing which forum I was in. The assumption though also makes it a bit odd as in why is there a need for an SDMI then? That's a clean, flat, 5V signal that is Very usable.

I get trying to use the Helix DAC but unless this is a really revealing, higher end build the difference will be negligible and there is still the option to use HEC-USB direct from a chosen device.
I agree there is not much reason to go through the pain to run a MOST fiber to the back and pay for an SDMI25 on this car.

I am considering it but that's because I am crazy and I have my own custom DSP I designed to do front channel extraction better than Helix RealCenter and I would like a digital input for it to skip another AD/DA conversion.
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      11-09-2022, 07:51 PM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris719 View Post
I agree there is not much reason to go through the pain to run a MOST fiber to the back and pay for an SDMI25 on this car.

I am considering it but that's because I am crazy and I have my own custom DSP I designed to do front channel extraction better than Helix RealCenter and I would like a digital input for it to skip another AD/DA conversion.
That's the exactly why I went through the pain in running MOST to the trunk; I didn't want the signal to be converted back and forth from digital to analog and back. And I used Bimmercode to switch to MOST output from the headunit; had to do it in expert mode.
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      11-10-2022, 12:32 AM   #61
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Originally Posted by Dirtboy View Post
That's the exactly why I went through the pain in running MOST to the trunk; I didn't want the signal to be converted back and forth from digital to analog and back. And I used Bimmercode to switch to MOST output from the headunit; had to do it in expert mode.
Cool, yeah, that makes sense if that's your goal.

How do your PDC beeps work now? One of the reasons I'm probably not going to do this is that the SDMI25 and Mobridge, etc. only output 2 digital channels. I assume front and rear PDC are audibly indistinguishable now?

It's understandable since SPDIF only supports 2 ch of uncompressed PCM audio and there are no DSPs that I am aware of with multiple TOSLINK or Coax inputs.

Was running the cable really hard?
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      11-12-2022, 09:11 AM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris719 View Post
Cool, yeah, that makes sense if that's your goal.

How do your PDC beeps work now? One of the reasons I'm probably not going to do this is that the SDMI25 and Mobridge, etc. only output 2 digital channels. I assume front and rear PDC are audibly indistinguishable now?

It's understandable since SPDIF only supports 2 ch of uncompressed PCM audio and there are no DSPs that I am aware of with multiple TOSLINK or Coax inputs.

Was running the cable really hard?
PDC works fine for me. Since mine's an LCI I only have sensors in the rear. It would be problem if you have front and rear PDC.

The biggest pain in running the fiber to the rear was the stress of worrying about scratching/breaking trim while doing it. For most people, just using the analog input on the amp would be good enough.
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