[ZeroEmissionZ]

Hi guys be gentle new here, so I bought a 2018 BMW M2 that was involved in a minor front end , car was driving fine around the rear of my yard momentarily to move it not even more then one minute, was starting and driving ok , a bit rough idle. Anyway I put it into reverse and now the car refuses to start, checked for fuel pressure its there, checked for spark that also is there. Did a pressure test and it came up equally 50PSI on each cylinder. Im lost with the N55 motor if its a timing chain skipped a tooth, or was it because I ran the engine with no oil for a minute? I've been told the lower bearing can get damaged on these motors very easily but not sure what the situation is going. Any help guys I'm really upset, if it is the motor damaged if I get another N55 motor out of a M235i 2014 will it retrofit into my car as a replacement (im thinking I have broken my motor

[Ktmdriver]

One has to wonder why would you run the car with no oil even for one minute. Did the front end crash cause all the engine oil to leak out and you did not notice? If so and your compression in each cylinder is only 50 psi, I’d say that motor is toast, finished, kaput as you are short about 100 psi per cylinder.

[dtmpower98]

The m235i engine is actually different from the M2 N55 I believe

[ZeroEmissionZ]

Originally Posted by Ktmdriver

One has to wonder why would you run the car with no oil even for one minute. Did the front end crash cause all the engine oil to leak out and you did not notice? If so and your compression in each cylinder is only 50 psi, I’d say that motor is toast, finished, kaput as you are short about 100 psi per cylinder.

Hi yes the car was run and wasn't aware that the oil line cooler was busted

[ZeroEmissionZ]

Originally Posted by dtmpower98

The m235i engine is actually different from the M2 N55 I believe

Will it fit and run into my M2? I'm unable to find a replacement motor , and the engines out of warranty being a damaged car. Also what about the M 135i model is that also compatible ?

[dtmpower98]

Originally Posted by ZeroEmissionZ

Will it fit and run into my M2? I'm unable to find a replacement motor , and the engines out of warranty being a damaged car. Also what about the M 135i model is that also compatible ?

I don't see why it wouldn't work but from a performance/sound standpoint it has its differences which are improved for the M2

Reference:

https://www.bmwblog.com/2016/07/28/b...ven-better-m2/

[ZeroEmissionZ]

thanks mate ^^ yeah I understand from a power point of view it wouldn't be as durable as the M2 motor but its Come to a point where I just need the car to drive

[termigni]

What's your insurance telling you? not totaling it?

[ZeroEmissionZ]

Originally Posted by termigni

What's your insurance telling you? not totaling it?

oh no I think you misunderstood me, its motor damage, not body or cosmetic

[Poochie]

Originally Posted by ZeroEmissionZ

oh no I think you misunderstood me, its motor damage, not body or cosmetic

Insurance will cover it if the original damage that occurred while under your coverage, contributed to the motor starving for oil. Which is what I assumed happened.

I misunderstood what you said because you're missing key words in your original post; I thought you stated that you bought an 2018 M2 with minor *front end damage* already.

If that's the case, the insurance would not cover pre-existing damage, unless you also leave out some words when you submit a claim.

J/k

[ZeroEmissionZ]

Originally Posted by Poochie

Insurance will cover it if the original damage that occurred while under your coverage, contributed to the motor starving for oil. Which is what I assumed happened.

I misunderstood what you said because you're missing key words in your original post; I thought you stated that you bought an 2018 M2 with minor *front end damage* already.

If that's the case, the insurance would not cover pre-existing damage, unless you also leave out some words when you submit a claim.

J/k

Im just not even sure if it is the motor or something else im missing here, someone told me the VANOS system can also change the pressure test, but I wouldn't think from 165-190PSI down to what readings im getting 50PSI. Could it possibly be anything else im missing here , before I go out and buy myself another replacement motor?

[Poochie]

Originally Posted by ZeroEmissionZ

Im just not even sure if it is the motor or something else im missing here, someone told me the VANOS system can also change the pressure test, but I wouldn't think from 165-190PSI down to what readings im getting 50PSI. Could it possibly be anything else im missing here , before I go out and buy myself another replacement motor?

If you drove the car with a busted cooler, one would assume that it starved for oil and the motor is gone.

However, we're all just spitballing theories here, if you truly want to confirm this, tow the car to a mechanic and let them throughly test the motor for damage.

Hey, you might get lucky and it's an easy fix.

Keep in mind, the car might not start after an accident; as the vehicle's computer pushes the car in a "safe mode" by killing power to the battery and fuel pump.


https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...M5-After-Crash

http://www.city-data.com/forum/bmw-m...art-after.html

[Rupes]

Originally Posted by ZeroEmissionZ

Im just not even sure if it is the motor or something else im missing here, someone told me the VANOS system can also change the pressure test, but I wouldn't think from 165-190PSI down to what readings im getting 50PSI. Could it possibly be anything else im missing here , before I go out and buy myself another replacement motor?

Dude, just pay to have it towed to a shop you trust. Doesn't sound like you have the mechanical knowhow to fix it yourself, and there's no way any of us here on the internet will be able to pinpoint your problem.

[LuvMyE92]

OP, would you clarify please, did you buy the car before or after the "minor front end" accident occurred?

Correct me if I'm wrong guys and gals, but oil starvation would lead to overheating, toasted bearings and the like, wouldn't it? To me it seems that low compression would be caused by something else. And even so, I find it hard to believe that all cylinders would show exactly 50 psi. I suspect a bad gauge, not using the gauge properly, or I suppose you could have 24 bent valve stems.

I would surely investigate the true cause of the engine "failure" before buying a replacement.

[XutvJet]

Originally Posted by dtmpower98

I don't see why it wouldn't work but from a performance/sound standpoint it has its differences which are improved for the M2

Reference:

https://www.bmwblog.com/2016/07/28/b...ven-better-m2/

That article is a bit misleading and odd as well. There are no N55s with spray-on cylinder liners. That's a B58 thing. The M2 uses the same engine block as all other N55s. The N55 in the M235 has the same turbo, top end (i.e., cylinder head and intake manifold), short block, and forged crank as the M2 as well as the oil squirters. The other N55s have cast cranks. All 2014+ N55s have the same rod bearings and forged connecting rods that are shared with the S55. The M235 and M2 do have different hypereutectic pistons though both cars have the same compression ratios. The M235 and M2 share the same intake system with the exception that the M2 has an open area on the front of the lower airbox.

The biggest difference between the M235 N55 and M2 N55 is the M2 has a better oil sump system for harder, high G operation. A handful of M235 owners have retrofitted the M2 oil sump systems. It's a simple bolt-on part and about $500 in parts.

The additional power in the M2 comes solely from the DME tuning.

One should be able to bolt-in an M235 (M135 as well) motor into an M2. I'd install the M2 oil sump system though.

[XutvJet]

Originally Posted by LuvMyE92

OP, would you clarify please, did you buy the car before or after the "minor front end" accident occurred?

Correct me if I'm wrong guys and gals, but oil starvation would lead to overheating, toasted bearings and the like, wouldn't it? To me it seems that low compression would be caused by something else. And even so, I find it hard to believe that all cylinders would show exactly 50 psi. I suspect a bad gauge, not using the gauge properly, or I suppose you could have 24 bent valve stems.

I would surely investigate the true cause of the engine "failure" before buying a replacement.

Agreed. It would be extremely rare that the compression would be lost across all cylinders and those numbers would be the same. Also, compression should be tested with a slightly warm engine. My guess is there's an issue with the camshaft/timing system or a user issue with the compression tester.

If the bearings are toast, they can be replaced, even with the motor in the car.

Either way, it sounds like the motor should come out and be tested/inspected on the topend and bottom end.

[McPurrs]

If you had just posted here more, and upped your post count, this wouldn't have happened....

[F87_LCI]

Take it to dealer to have it thoroughly inspected and full quote to repair/replace. If you need to replace it, may as well also look into an S55 swap at this point, unless you're totally in love with the N55. If you can find an S55 for same or slight premium to N55, may as well go that way...better upside with simple tune.

[ZeroEmissionZ]

- Car was purchased after front end damage as a salvage vehicle (so motor could have possibly been already half dead and I finished it off)

-Compression test gauge works fine (tested it on another car)

-Car ran for about 2 -3 minutes at most with me with no oil and doing speeds of less then 5km an hour, basically moving the car around the yard of my house.

- I was also thinking that it may be in a limp mode etc, however mechanics told me that compression should still read higher all coils disconnected and plugs out.

- It has to be something mechanical, and only possibilities I could come up with other then the motor having serious damage is something to do with the Vanos system, I know this hydruallicaly locks the shaft in or out ive heard, could this possibly be locked into wrong position ? other possible scenario is the timing chain has jumped a tooth but even then motors going to be damaged

- towing it and taking it to a mechanic will probably cost about $500 to get an answer , if there is a tell tail sign of the motor being cooked and diagnosed with a few of the know how people on here its $500 going towards the car instead of BMW!

- I have been offered an S55 motor but at a huge cost that im probably not looking forward to going down that track, I can get the N55 motor at one third of the price of the S55, it would also devalue the car in terms of resale as warranty is voided and new purchasers are a little hesitant to buy modified cars unless hes an enthusiast or a member on here.

[nioh_lbbm2]

So you bought a damaged car as some sort of project car and are asking people online what the problem could be? No offense but it sounds like you're in way over your head and it most certainly did not help to run the car for 2-3 minutes with no oil no matter what.


Also, not sure why you're worried about lost value either. You already bought a damaged car. It already lost value regardless of whether or not you put in a new engine because it was in an accident.

[McPurrs]

Originally Posted by ZeroEmissionZ

- Car was purchased after front end damage as a salvage vehicle ......

..... it would also devalue the car in terms of resale as warranty is voided and new purchasers are a little hesitant to buy modified cars unless hes an enthusiast or a member on here.

You have a salvage title. The resale value is already LONG gone. FOREVER

[qnet]

Running the car without oil was not good, especially if it was for 2-3 minutes. The car should have been looked over and inspected more before it was started.