[Dj_Quik]

Dont you have to crank the motor to perform a compression test? Without oil, Im thinking you did way more damage doing that than actually running the car for 2-3 minutes. That motor is toast. Im gonna guess scored cylinder walls and bearings. Yikes.

[Poochie]

Ahh.. Makes sense now.. New cars don't get totaled for 'minor front end' damage; the motor was gone before you even made the purchase.

Unless you own a body shop or it's a project car; you'll never come out ahead with purchasing a vehicle with a salvage title..

Trust me, I know from personal experience.. I could write a book..

[matty_f]

All cylinders low does seem suspicious. Could it be fuel washed? I not super familiar with the N55 engine, but I had a friend run a car for over 100 miles with no oil and the car still ran. Seems to me no oil would cause excessive wear on bearings, cams, gears, etc, but I’m struggling to see how it would create low compression on all cyclinders. I wouldn’t go scrapping the whole engine without getting a professionally opinion. Maybe a tech could swing by off the dealer clock and check it out for you after work. Gotta make friends with some mechanics

Edit, unless you scored all the bores so horribly that they are not holding compression. You can peak down the spark plug hole with a camera. They make borescopes for this that are fairly cheap.

[ZeroEmissionZ]

I understand all of this , but I do need to get the car back up and running again

[mr_lab_rat]

If the engine really is gone a swap to regular (non-M) N55 should be pretty straight forward.

[qnet]

Originally Posted by ZeroEmissionZ

I understand all of this , but I do need to get the car back up and running again

I hate that this happened to you, and didn't mean to judge. Back in the early 2000's when I had my E36 M3, I did the notorious money shift. Many familiar with the E36 M3 knows that term. The dealer thought it was a VANOS issue, but turned out that I had bent several valves and damaged a few pistons.

It cost $400.00 at the dealer just to open it up, just to tell me I needed either a complete rebuild for $8700, or a new engine for $9000. I didn't have the financial resources back then that I do now, so the car sat for a year until I found a used motor out of a 96 M3 for $3500.

My E36 M3 was a six year old model at the time, so parts were easier to find for it.

The N55 for the M235i has been around for awhile, so that may be the cheapest route, if you don't mind having a slightly less powerful car. I had a M235i and the power didn't feel that much more less than my M2, the M2 is just tuned and geared more aggressively.

I also agree with others in that taking it to a dealer may not be a bad idea. It will cost some to open it up, but who knows, hopefully it's something they can fix.

[LuvMyE92]

I would suggest that finding a good independent BMW shop, especially one that deals with modified and/or race cars, would be a better choice than the dealership. Typically (at least in the USA) they default to "replace engine" if they get into any difficult internal issues. If the engine is toast, it's almost certainly cheaper to go find a used one somewhere. The N55 is common enough that a replacement could be sourced.

I suggest sticking with the engine (even though the M2 is not a standard N55) that the car came with, to avoid ECU programming issues, but that's just an uneducated suggestion.

Buying a total loss car is always risky. Back when I had my Chevy SS (Holden VF Commodore) there was a guy on the forum who bought a flood car, and he was able (with mad skilz) to replace the damaged computers, reprogram stuff, fix the other stuff (no engine or transmission internal damage) and ended up saving probably $25K (US) over the price of a dry car. Of course, he can never sell it for much more than he paid, since it is a branded car, but it can be done. Again, you've got to be able to do a lot of it yourself; otherwise you're just writing checks all day long.

I applaud the OP's chutzpah, but it sounds like it's time for a professional diagnosis, not a remote Internet guessing game.

Keep us posted though, we all wish you well!

[ZeroEmissionZ]

Originally Posted by LuvMyE92

I would suggest that finding a good independent BMW shop, especially one that deals with modified and/or race cars, would be a better choice than the dealership. Typically (at least in the USA) they default to "replace engine" if they get into any difficult internal issues. If the engine is toast, it's almost certainly cheaper to go find a used one somewhere. The N55 is common enough that a replacement could be sourced.

I suggest sticking with the engine (even though the M2 is not a standard N55) that the car came with, to avoid ECU programming issues, but that's just an uneducated suggestion.

Buying a total loss car is always risky. Back when I had my Chevy SS (Holden VF Commodore) there was a guy on the forum who bought a flood car, and he was able (with mad skilz) to replace the damaged computers, reprogram stuff, fix the other stuff (no engine or transmission internal damage) and ended up saving probably $25K (US) over the price of a dry car. Of course, he can never sell it for much more than he paid, since it is a branded car, but it can be done. Again, you've got to be able to do a lot of it yourself; otherwise you're just writing checks all day long.

I applaud the OP's chutzpah, but it sounds like it's time for a professional diagnosis, not a remote Internet guessing game.

Keep us posted though, we all wish you well!

Will keep you guys posted thank you so much for trying to help all ❤️😘.

[ZeroEmissionZ]

Oh I think I remember reading somewhere a few days ago , can and does the “Double VANOS” new system have any effect on the actual motor psi? I know the VANOS pushes the cam rod or shaft from what I remember which also effects the timing of the engine.

If the VANOS system was hydraulically locked somewhere wouldn’t that have a impact on the oil circulation and pressure in turn affect the psi reading of the internal if for example the rod is not fully engaged or partially , or completely disengaged ?

I wouldn’t think such a car being $100k designed by big men “engineers” would allow a $20k motor to be cooked in literally 30 seconds , it is a 2018 model , like what the heck these days a car will alert the hell out of you if your windscreen fluid is low , and go into limp mode if it doesn’t like a signal from the transmission, one would of thought Bmw has some sort of safety system to protect such a important component of the car they designed “the bloody motor!” And so inconveniently they have placed the oil cooler literally about 5 inches above the road level, so hit some wildlife or road speed bump, or a gutter and kiss your engine bye bye. Really stupid locataion for such a critical part of the vehicle , and the motor should at least sense the sudden drop in oil presssure and switch off or limp mode, this is what I’m assuming has happened with my car “hopefully” it’s in a safe mode and hence it’s not starting. But the pistons still read 50-75psi across them 😔😡

[McPurrs]

Originally Posted by ZeroEmissionZ

Oh I think I remember reading somewhere a few days ago , can and does the “Double VANOS” new system have any effect on the actual motor psi? I know the VANOS pushes the cam rod or shaft from what I remember which also effects the timing of the engine.

If the VANOS system was hydraulically locked somewhere wouldn’t that have a impact on the oil circulation and pressure in turn affect the psi reading of the internal if for example the rod is not fully engaged or partially , or completely disengaged ?

I wouldn’t think such a car being $100k designed by big men “engineers” would allow a $20k motor to be cooked in literally 30 seconds , it is a 2018 model , like what the heck these days a car will alert the hell out of you if your windscreen fluid is low , and go into limp mode if it doesn’t like a signal from the transmission, one would of thought Bmw has some sort of safety system to protect such a important component of the car they designed “the bloody motor!” And so inconveniently they have placed the oil cooler literally about 5 inches above the road level, so hit some wildlife or road speed bump, or a gutter and kiss your engine bye bye. Really stupid locataion for such a critical part of the vehicle , and the motor should at least sense the sudden drop in oil presssure and switch off or limp mode, this is what I’m assuming has happened with my car “hopefully” it’s in a safe mode and hence it’s not starting. But the pistons still read 50-75psi across them 😔😡

$100k???? You know a new M2 is in the 50's right?

The cooler is out front, where it works best. You cannot design something that is as efficient, AND can take a hit. Who hits things and expects everything to be ok?
Why was your car totaled to begin with? Let's start there before we tell you that there is no limp mode due to low oil pressure. And if there were, it would alert you on iDrive.

Engines need oil to stay lubricated, and reduce friction on internal parts. You started it without oil. The bearing tolerances themselves are extremely tight. Maybe not E92 M3 tight, but tight. I suspect you cooked whatever was left of those rod bearings.

[LuvMyE92]

Originally Posted by McPurrs

$100k???? You know a new M2 is in the 50's right?

Please note that the OP is in Australia, and they pay quite inflated prices down (under) there. And higher taxes. And their dollar doesn't translate 1:1 to ours.

[ZeroEmissionZ]

Originally Posted by McPurrs

$100k???? You know a new M2 is in the 50's right?

The cooler is out front, where it works best. You cannot design something that is as efficient, AND can take a hit. Who hits things and expects everything to be ok?
Why was your car totaled to begin with? Let's start there before we tell you that there is no limp mode due to low oil pressure. And if there were, it would alert you on iDrive.

Engines need oil to stay lubricated, and reduce friction on internal parts. You started it without oil. The bearing tolerances themselves are extremely tight. Maybe not E92 M3 tight, but tight. I suspect you cooked whatever was left of those rod bearings.

the car is a 2018 model in Australia $112k to be precise not including on the road costs, in US a 2018 is still roughly $65k , regardless they aren't a cheap car!


In my SL65 AMG the coolers are not down below held by 2mm thin steel brackets that you are able to bend with your hands. , They were mounted much higher off the floor , near the centre grille and didn't have long neck hoses that could be penetrated at the slightest bump or hit. They had two grills in front of them, and thick metal that you would use as a roof intrusion bar going across the front . I will try get a photo and show you what I mean. So computer tells you, you need wiper water, or fuel, but doesn't warn you that your engines about to cook? sounds legit to me!

[McPurrs]

Originally Posted by ZeroEmissionZ

the car is a 2018 model in Australia $112k to be precise not including on the road costs, in US a 2018 is still roughly $65k , regardless they aren't a cheap car!


In my SL65 AMG the coolers are not down below held by 2mm thin steel brackets that you are able to bend with your hands. , They were mounted much higher off the floor , near the centre grille and didn't have long neck hoses that could be penetrated at the slightest bump or hit. They had two grills in front of them, and thick metal that you would use as a roof intrusion bar going across the front . I will try get a photo and show you what I mean. So computer tells you, you need wiper water, or fuel, but doesn't warn you that your engines about to cook? sounds legit to me!

The car will alert you to low oil pressure. OPs story is questionable, at best.

[ZeroEmissionZ]

Originally Posted by McPurrs

The car will alert you to low oil pressure. OPs story is questionable, at best.

ok im a liar and im just bored with my life lying to people who know better then me needing there help? really? The car did not mention nothing of oil , it said washer fluid low, bonnet open, headlight adaptive malfunction as the headlights were disconnected. It did not mention anything of oil is why I didnt stop to turn it off, and asking the question as to why BMWs do not have this safety system, then again what would I know im sure its you who has the busted M2 oil lines, and seen the message

[ZeroEmissionZ]

Originally Posted by LuvMyE92

Please note that the OP is in Australia, and they pay quite inflated prices down (under) there. And higher taxes. And their dollar doesn't translate 1:1 to ours.

correct

[McPurrs]

Originally Posted by ZeroEmissionZ

ok im a liar and im just bored with my life lying to people who know better then me needing there help? really? The car did not mention nothing of oil , it said washer fluid low, bonnet open, headlight adaptive malfunction as the headlights were disconnected. It did not mention anything of oil is why I didnt stop to turn it off, and asking the question as to why BMWs do not have this safety system, then again what would I know im sure its you who has the busted M2 oil lines, and seen the message

I said questionable. I did not call you a liar.
Questionable as in , how did you know the car had zero oil in it?
Why would you run an engine without oil, if you knew it was empty?
Are you sure you are not over your head thinking you can repair a salvage, with limited knowledge such as "lack of oil is bad for an engine?"
Where are ANY pics to validate your story?
What steps did you take while performing your compression test?
What did the subsequent leak down test tell you?
Have you scanned it for codes at all?

[ZeroEmissionZ]

Originally Posted by McPurrs

I said questionable. I did not call you a liar.
Questionable as in , how did you know the car had zero oil in it?
Why would you run an engine without oil, if you knew it was empty?
Are you sure you are not over your head thinking you can repair a salvage, with limited knowledge such as "lack of oil is bad for an engine?"
Where are ANY pics to validate your story?
What steps did you take while performing your compression test?
What did the subsequent leak down test tell you?
Have you scanned it for codes at all?

I scanned for codes today, it came up with cylinder one no signal error etc, did a test on cylinder one it isn't firing spark, and isn't powering the fuel injector no voltage , all the rest there is spark. Scan using a MAXIDAS AUTEL diagnostic machine , says DME error , isn't clearing the errors I think this needs a ISTA machine to scan original BMW diagnostics to know exactly where the issue is. Maybe this is the fail safe mode the engine goes into when it senses it is critical low oil level?

I stopped the motor and knew the oil was low when I got out of the car to see why it turned off , the oil cooler lines were all brown covered in oil, so was a huge patch of oil on the floor, but as far as inside of the car telling me the oil is low "No" this never happened, engine just turned off and then I got out to see and seen the oil everywhere. I hope it didnt cook it and it just went into a fail safe mode, funny enough on the dash no errors other then hood opened , washer fluid level, and headlights . I cant rule out any engine lights as the car isn't turning on meaning all the Ligjts are still on "reds" which lights up all the lights on the cluster, not necessarily meaning they are fault, but merely going through the stat up procedure, I will get photos up soon and keep this post updated. sorry if any misunderstandings here guys

[Project_F87]

Originally Posted by ZeroEmissionZ

I scanned for codes today, it came up with cylinder one no signal error etc, did a test on cylinder one it isn't firing spark, and isn't powering the fuel injector no voltage , all the rest there is spark. Scan using a MAXIDAS AUTEL diagnostic machine , says DME error , isn't clearing the errors I think this needs a ISTA machine to scan original BMW diagnostics to know exactly where the issue is. Maybe this is the fail safe mode the engine goes into when it senses it is critical low oil level?

I stopped the motor and knew the oil was low when I got out of the car to see why it turned off , the oil cooler lines were all brown covered in oil, so was a huge patch of oil on the floor, but as far as inside of the car telling me the oil is low "No" this never happened, engine just turned off and then I got out to see and seen the oil everywhere. I hope it didnt cook it and it just went into a fail safe mode, funny enough on the dash no errors other then hood opened , washer fluid level, and headlights . I cant rule out any engine lights as the car isn't turning on meaning all the Ligjts are still on "reds" which lights up all the lights on the cluster, not necessarily meaning they are fault, but merely going through the stat up procedure, I will get photos up soon and keep this post updated. sorry if any misunderstandings here guys

You have nothing to be sorry about man, these people on the forums are always so quick to assume people in need are trolling. Absolutely disgusting how these people jump the gun and say your motor is done. Sounds fine to me, just change the spark plug(s), repair the oil leak, and put some oil in the motor and you should be good.

[ZeroEmissionZ]

lol wow

[CoffeeLife]

Originally Posted by ZeroEmissionZ

lol wow

Good luck man. I wish you the best. Hoping to hear this engine turn over again as it will be good future reference for others.

[cecaa850]

Won't a slightly spun crank hub give lowered compression across the board?

[McPurrs]

Originally Posted by ZeroEmissionZ

I scanned for codes today, it came up with cylinder one no signal error etc, did a test on cylinder one it isn't firing spark, and isn't powering the fuel injector no voltage , all the rest there is spark. Scan using a MAXIDAS AUTEL diagnostic machine , says DME error , isn't clearing the errors I think this needs a ISTA machine to scan original BMW diagnostics to know exactly where the issue is. Maybe this is the fail safe mode the engine goes into when it senses it is critical low oil level?

I stopped the motor and knew the oil was low when I got out of the car to see why it turned off , the oil cooler lines were all brown covered in oil, so was a huge patch of oil on the floor, but as far as inside of the car telling me the oil is low "No" this never happened, engine just turned off and then I got out to see and seen the oil everywhere. I hope it didnt cook it and it just went into a fail safe mode, funny enough on the dash no errors other then hood opened , washer fluid level, and headlights . I cant rule out any engine lights as the car isn't turning on meaning all the Ligjts are still on "reds" which lights up all the lights on the cluster, not necessarily meaning they are fault, but merely going through the stat up procedure, I will get photos up soon and keep this post updated. sorry if any misunderstandings here guys

Check grounding of course, but with no spark and fuel, your DME may be shot. I am assuming you moved coils around to confirm it's not #1 coil itself.

Or do what that clown said and fix your leak, change your plugs, and you are good to go I guess. LMAOOOOOO

Back to serious stuff... do you know why the car was salvaged? That may help trace the issue(s).