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      05-04-2018, 12:53 PM   #23
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FTP & CTS Turbo are by far the best quality/ looking charge-pipe in the market!

Check out this link of a fellow forum member

http://*************/ctschargepipediy/
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      05-10-2018, 05:18 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FaRKle! View Post
Yup. Plus these break pretty easily.

Use the Breeze HTM clamps with liners. You can really tighten these down securely and not worry about breaking them.
I am going with the Vibrant Stanless Steel T-bolt clamps. I actually found them for a good price at my local Pep-boys. One step up again from the Breeze style clamps because they're not worm type.

You'll need 1 x 2792 size, 2 x 2793 size, and 1 x 2795 size. They come in packs of two unfortunately, but aren't that expensive.
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Last edited by Nezil; 05-11-2018 at 12:08 AM..
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      05-11-2018, 12:10 AM   #25
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So in preparation for installing, I have a few questions for those that have done this before. I want to make sure I am prepared so that I can do this all in one hit.
  • For the meth bungs, do I have to put any thread-lock on them to prevent them backing out?
  • For the screw fittings (vacuum fitting and meth bungs), do I need to put some thread thread sealing tape on the threads to make sure they don't leak?
  • Is there a gasket on the MAF sensor, or do I need one?
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      05-12-2018, 06:26 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nothingman View Post
For those interested in ordering these Breeze Hi-Torque clamps, you can find them sold by the manufacturer on Amazon for $6.99 each with free shipping:

Breeze HTM-300L Diameter Range: 2-1/4" - 3-1/8" (57mm - 79mm)

Breeze HTM-350L Diameter Range: 2-3/4" - 3-5/8" (70mm - 92mm)

Breeze HTM-400L Diameter Range: 3-1/4" - 4-1/8" (83mm - 105mm)
Got these in the mail this week and they look impressive thanks
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      05-16-2018, 01:30 PM   #27
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How many of each of those Breeze HTM claps do you need? 2 of each size?
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      05-16-2018, 01:32 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by diesekte View Post
How many of each of those Breeze HTM claps do you need? 2 of each size?
The Vibrant ones are actually better, and probably cheaper. There were for me at least, and available at my local Pepboys.

I'll post a photo when I get home.
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      05-16-2018, 04:38 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by diesekte View Post
How many of each of those Breeze HTM claps do you need? 2 of each size?
I received two ,a big one and a small one. Breeze HTM

I think if you go vibrant I thought I read you get two in a bag which means I will have two extra as spairs?
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      05-16-2018, 04:39 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ceedawg View Post
I received two a big one and a small one. Breeze HTM

I think if you go vibrant I thought I read you get two in a bag which means I will have two extra as spairs?
Indeed you will, but it's still cheaper. You can use the spare large one as a bracelet if you want to geek out.
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      05-16-2018, 04:41 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nezil View Post
The Vibrant ones are actually better, and probably cheaper. There were for me at least, and available at my local Pepboys.

I'll post a photo when I get home.
Probably so I agree but the Breeze ones are far greater quality and are far better than the ones that come with the FTP charge pipe.
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      05-16-2018, 04:42 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nezil View Post
Indeed you will, but it's still cheaper. You can use the spare large one as a bracelet if you want to geek out.
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      05-16-2018, 11:43 PM   #33
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Vibrant clamps fitted for size testing pre-install:

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      05-16-2018, 11:46 PM   #34
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Spare clamp worn as a bracelet:

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      05-20-2018, 08:09 PM   #35
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I fitted the charge pipe a few days back, and the boost pipe this afternoon. I'd say they're about as difficult as each other to install. Getting the pipes of the FMIC isn't too difficult if you follow the suggestions in the ************* post above (cable ties and bits of card).

The factory charge pipe is a pain to actually get out of the engine bay. I removed the MAP sensor first, and then wiggled it out of the top of the engine bay, but I've heard of some people going the other direction. I think if I'd have taken the FMIC out, I'd probably have gone that way and it would have been easier.

Wiggling the FTP Throttle Body side of the Charge Pipe through was a bit of a pain, but actually fitting it up to the throttle body wasn't too difficult. I fitted the silicone section to the throttle body side first and clamped it down. Then I pushed the FMIC side into the silicone section at the same time as clipping on the FMIC input before bolting everything up.

The Boost pipe side started off fairly easy once I worked out a way to get cable ties etc. in to place to pull of the clip turbo outlet side. The pipe is able to rotate on the turbo outlet, and that helps because the sides of the clip you have to pull out are difficult to get to.

The FTP Boost pipe to turbo outlet was super easy to install, it pushes on really easy and clips in. It does feel a bit loose, but my logs don't show that it's leaking so I guess it's fine.

The issue with the boost pipe is that if you assume that the silicon coupling needs to be straight, as I did initially, and is shown in my photo above, it won't line up with the FMIC inlet at all. You need to put the silicon coupling at a slight angle downwards for both the machined FMIC inlet section and the turbo outlet section. Just like the throttle body side, I clamped the silicon coupling to the turbo outlet side first, then loosely fit the FMIC inlet connection into the silicon coupling before re-inserting the FMIC, clipping everything together and bolting it down.

I found that once you've clamped everything together it's a lot easier removing and re-installing if you need to, because the pipes and couplings are all in the correction orientation and clamped together. It's lining things up the first time that's the pain, and it really is quite a pain.

Each side took me about two hours, but that includes removing and re-installing the belly pan and FMIC each time. If I did it in one hit with an upgraded FMIC it would probably be 3 hours all in.

When my CSF FMIC finally arrives I'll have to go through a lot of the work again... At lease I know what I'm doing now!
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      05-21-2018, 04:29 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nezil View Post
I fitted the charge pipe a few days back, and the boost pipe this afternoon. I'd say they're about as difficult as each other to install. Getting the pipes of the FMIC isn't too difficult if you follow the suggestions in the ************* post above (cable ties and bits of card).

The factory charge pipe is a pain to actually get out of the engine bay. I removed the MAP sensor first, and then wiggled it out of the top of the engine bay, but I've heard of some people going the other direction. I think if I'd have taken the FMIC out, I'd probably have gone that way and it would have been easier.

Wiggling the FTP Throttle Body side of the Charge Pipe through was a bit of a pain, but actually fitting it up to the throttle body wasn't too difficult. I fitted the silicone section to the throttle body side first and clamped it down. Then I pushed the FMIC side into the silicone section at the same time as clipping on the FMIC input before bolting everything up.

The Boost pipe side started off fairly easy once I worked out a way to get cable ties etc. in to place to pull of the clip turbo outlet side. The pipe is able to rotate on the turbo outlet, and that helps because the sides of the clip you have to pull out are difficult to get to.

The FTP Boost pipe to turbo outlet was super easy to install, it pushes on really easy and clips in. It does feel a bit loose, but my logs don't show that it's leaking so I guess it's fine.

The issue with the boost pipe is that if you assume that the silicon coupling needs to be straight, as I did initially, and is shown in my photo above, it won't line up with the FMIC inlet at all. You need to put the silicon coupling at a slight angle downwards for both the machined FMIC inlet section and the turbo outlet section. Just like the throttle body side, I clamped the silicon coupling to the turbo outlet side first, then loosely fit the FMIC inlet connection into the silicon coupling before re-inserting the FMIC, clipping everything together and bolting it down.

I found that once you've clamped everything together it's a lot easier removing and re-installing if you need to, because the pipes and couplings are all in the correction orientation and clamped together. It's lining things up the first time that's the pain, and it really is quite a pain.

Each side took me about two hours, but that includes removing and re-installing the belly pan and FMIC each time. If I did it in one hit with an upgraded FMIC it would probably be 3 hours all in.

When my CSF FMIC finally arrives I'll have to go through a lot of the work again... At lease I know what I'm doing now!
Nice write up. I'm hoping it wont take 3 hours though. Best way seems to take the FMIC out first and then take out the charge pipes. I'm gona pull it down from the bottom. That will be my route. The passenger side charge pipe hardly anyone changes it appears. I waited till I received the FMIC so that I can put CPs and FMIC all in at once. This is not a fun job to do twice!

Did you use loc tight or white tape to prevent leaks ,was it necessary?
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      05-21-2018, 07:28 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ceedawg View Post
Nice write up. I'm hoping it wont take 3 hours though. Best way seems to take the FMIC out first and then take out the charge pipes.
I'd agree with that. I didn't do that for the charge pipe, but did for the boost, and then wondered why I didn't do that the first time!
Quote:
The passenger side charge pipe hardly anyone changes it appears.
I think the reason for this is that the factory part wouldn't crack... it's made of rubber, and though slightly smaller diameter, is not really a 'weak link'. Having said that, the FTP parts are so nice, I thought it was worth installing.
Quote:
I waited till I received the FMIC so that I can put CPs and FMIC all in at once. This is not a fun job to do twice!
I don't blame you, but I'll have done this three times by the time I get the FMIC in! I'm going to end up having to replace the bolts for the belly pan / stiffening plate. They're a torque and 90 degree tighten, and I can already feel that they don't tighten down the same way after being used 3 times.
Quote:
Did you use loc tight or white tape to prevent leaks ,was it necessary?
I put white plumbers tape on the two meth bungs and the vacuum pipe fitting. I'm not sure it was necessary, and I don't like the fact they they're not tapered threads, but I think it will be OK.
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      05-22-2018, 04:04 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nezil View Post

I put white plumbers tape on the two meth bungs and the vacuum pipe fitting. I'm not sure it was necessary, and I don't like the fact they they're not tapered threads, but I think it will be OK.
I have plenty of the white plumbing tape so I guess I will use it then.
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      06-01-2018, 04:51 PM   #39
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I have an update on the FTP....

As I posted in my previous post, I had a CSF FMIC coming, and it arrived yesterday, so I installed it last night.

This isn't the CSF Thread, so I'll leave the opinions on it for there, but I did have a big issue getting the FTP pipes on to the CSF FMIC.

Initially I didn't bother taking the stiffening plate off the car, and I'm still not sure if that is necessary; probably not. I was having real problems getting the pipes to push down onto the FMIC inlet / outlet, and in the end took the machined part of the boost pipe off and removed the FMIC to investigate.

It turns out that the green X-ring gaskets supplied in the FTP pipes are too think to slide over the CSF inlet / outlet. There was nothing I could do to get them to slide on. I took the stock gasket out of the stock inlet and charge pipes, and everything slid together without any issues.

These are both aftermarket parts, so I'm not sure who is at fault. My guess, is that both are within tolerance, but the FTP is slightly small, and the CSF is slightly large, and the combination makes them not fit.

In any case, I found a solution, so I posted it here. I have a feeling that FTP and CSF is going to be a popular combination, so it's worth detailing it!
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      06-02-2018, 04:40 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nezil View Post
It turns out that the green X-ring gaskets supplied in the FTP pipes are too think to slide over the CSF inlet / outlet. There was nothing I could do to get them to slide on.
That's weird. The X-rings on my N47 FTP pipes fit on the CSF IC I have and I was able to lock the clips on the inlet/outlets when I test fit those connections outside the car. Did you lubricate the x-rings at all?
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      06-03-2018, 04:46 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FaRKle! View Post
That's weird. The X-rings on my N47 FTP pipes fit on the CSF IC I have and I was able to lock the clips on the inlet/outlets when I test fit those connections outside the car. Did you lubricate the x-rings at all?
Yes, I lubricated the X-rings. The N55 boost pipe has a machined section that connects to the FMIC and it's straight and short. It was easy therefore to see what was happening; Some parts of the X-ring were crushing up agains the pipe, and others were going on. It was also REALLY stiff. I put the regular seals on from the stock parts and it just slipped on... much better!
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      06-10-2018, 08:36 PM   #42
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Those FTP pipes look really nice, top notch. I bought the VRSF charge pipe but after seeing this I wish I would have gone with the FTP setup. I've read that the boost pipe doesnt really need to be replaced but I'm sure it doesnt hurt to replace it with a nice quality piece like the one in this set up.
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      10-10-2018, 02:01 AM   #43
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Just wanted to reconfirm with you and others, the CSF intercooler works with the FTP boost and charge pipes? No issues with the intercooler inlet/outlet angle or width? Using the O rings that came with the CSF intercooler or the OE rings? Also, the original CSF intercooler mounting hardware issues have been addressed?

Thanks!
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      10-10-2018, 02:07 AM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dj2020 View Post
Nezil
Just wanted to reconfirm with you and others, the CSF intercooler works with the FTP boost and charge pipes? No issues with the intercooler inlet/outlet angle or width? Using the O rings that came with the CSF intercooler or the OE rings? Also, the original CSF intercooler mounting hardware issues have been addressed?

Thanks!
The CSF intercooler fits fine, and I am using the FTP boost and charge pipes with it. I did find that I had to put the stock O rings into the FTP parts rather than use the X Rings that come with the FTP. There was no way I could get the FTP Boost pipe to fit with the green X-ring.

It's also really annoying to get the angles of the parts correct, particularly at the rubber unions.

I'm going to be removing all of this before I take my car for a service next month, and bought a QuickJack to do the work this time, rather than using jack stands like I did before.
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