BMW Garage BMW Meets Register Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read
M2 Technical Topics > Suspension | Brakes | Chassis > BMW M3/M4 F8X Carbon Fiber Strut Mod on the BMW M2

Post Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
      03-26-2020, 08:21 AM   #199
3t3p
Lieutenant
79
Rep
410
Posts

Drives: M2
Join Date: May 2018
Location: UK

iTrader: (0)

Easier to place the car. The deadness centrally in the steering wheel is physically the same, but as the car is keener to turn it has the effect IMO of making it seem like the deadzone is less.

Last edited by 3t3p; 03-28-2020 at 12:38 PM..
Appreciate 0
      03-26-2020, 01:30 PM   #200
SIE_M2
Enlisted Member
United Kingdom
0
Rep
33
Posts

Drives: Bmw m2
Join Date: May 2019
Location: Staffordshire UK

iTrader: (0)

Thanks both for the replies!
Appreciate 0
      03-28-2020, 08:33 PM   #201
///Monika
Second Lieutenant
United_States
92
Rep
225
Posts

Drives: '18 X3 M40i & '18 M2
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: North America

iTrader: (0)

Hoping you guys can help me here. We installed a new HPFP today and in the process, had to remove the carbon strut. As soon as it was unbolted from the front and back, well - the front piece was just completely de-coupled. it looks like it's merely glued on.

Husband wants to remove the glue on the bracket (picture) but what do we use to re-glue it ? Any ideas ?
Attached Images
 
Appreciate 0
      03-28-2020, 08:58 PM   #202
Nezil
Major
Nezil's Avatar
1151
Rep
1,420
Posts

Drives: LCI '18 6MT M2
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: San Francisco Bay Area

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by ///Monika View Post
Hoping you guys can help me here. We installed a new HPFP today and in the process, had to remove the carbon strut. As soon as it was unbolted from the front and back, well - the front piece was just completely de-coupled. it looks like it's merely glued on.

Husband wants to remove the glue on the bracket (picture) but what do we use to re-glue it ? Any ideas ?
It is just glued on, yes... maybe beta-link would work?

Yours looks gold, is that just the lighting? I thought it was black normally.
__________________
2018 ///M2 LCI, LBB, 6MT...

Current Performance Mods:
CSF FMIC, ER CP, Fabspeed Cat, Aquamist WMI, GFB DV+, NGK 97506, BM3 (Stage 2 93 OTS), CDV delete, UCP, M2C/M3/M4 Strut Brace, M3/M4 Reinforcement Rings
Appreciate 0
      03-28-2020, 10:22 PM   #203
///Monika
Second Lieutenant
United_States
92
Rep
225
Posts

Drives: '18 X3 M40i & '18 M2
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: North America

iTrader: (0)

Should be gold for what this thing costs right. No, probably has a lot to do with all the led lights in here. I was thinking beta link too (we actually have some but never used it) but wasn't sure .. Shouldn't be a problem removing it off the bracket but any attempt to remove it from the carbon fiber is well - risky at best. This stuff is really on there. Almost like a rubber material. Wonder how well beta link sticks to beta link.

Adding a photo of the carbon... Apologies if the thing is rotated wrong(must be something to do with my phone).

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nezil View Post
It is just glued on, yes... maybe beta-link would work?

Yours looks gold, is that just the lighting? I thought it was black normally.
Attached Images
 
Appreciate 0
      03-29-2020, 04:07 AM   #204
M Fifty
Captain
324
Rep
869
Posts

Drives: M2 & 330CI
Join Date: May 2018
Location: The Interweb

iTrader: (0)

This was a new part?

From the pictures, while the adhesive is on both parts, it's only around the edges of the bonded area on the CF (and you can see the imprint of the weave in the adhesive that's still attached to the bracket).

That rather suggests the surface coating on the CF failed.

Last edited by M Fifty; 03-29-2020 at 04:37 AM.. Reason: More detail
Appreciate 1
      03-29-2020, 09:48 AM   #205
///Monika
Second Lieutenant
United_States
92
Rep
225
Posts

Drives: '18 X3 M40i & '18 M2
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: North America

iTrader: (0)

Yes, purchased new from Sun Motors (Brian) back in Sept. '19. You are exactly correct, the imprint is actually the coating pulled directly off the CF. The surface on the CF is uniform though.

Worth an attempted repair ? Betalink cured over a couple of days?

Quote:
Originally Posted by M Fifty View Post
This was a new part?

From the pictures, while the adhesive is on both parts, it's only around the edges of the bonded area on the CF (and you can see the imprint of the weave in the adhesive that's still attached to the bracket).

That rather suggests the surface coating on the CF failed.
Appreciate 0
      03-29-2020, 10:06 AM   #206
Bee Pee
Brigadier General
United Kingdom
1294
Rep
4,051
Posts

Drives: AW M2 DCT
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: SW London

iTrader: (3)

Quote:
Originally Posted by ///Monika View Post
Yes, purchased new from Sun Motors (Brian) back in Sept. '19. You are exactly correct, the imprint is actually the coating pulled directly off the CF. The surface on the CF is uniform though.

Worth an attempted repair ? Betalink cured over a couple of days?

Quote:
Originally Posted by M Fifty View Post
This was a new part?

From the pictures, while the adhesive is on both parts, it's only around the edges of the bonded area on the CF (and you can see the imprint of the weave in the adhesive that's still attached to the bracket).

That rather suggests the surface coating on the CF failed.
Parts usually have 24 months warranty- take it back to dealer ?
__________________
Fettled M135i EB AT - gone but not forgotten:
AW M2 DCT
Appreciate 2
PLF69412.00

      03-29-2020, 11:00 AM   #207
///Monika
Second Lieutenant
United_States
92
Rep
225
Posts

Drives: '18 X3 M40i & '18 M2
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: North America

iTrader: (0)

Thank you. I had to check to verify that purchasing the part out-of-state (or different dealership) isn't a problem and according to the BMW web site, as long as we have the invoice (which we do), we can return the part for a replacement.

Here's hoping no one else has a failure outside the warranty.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bee Pee View Post
Parts usually have 24 months warranty- take it back to dealer ?
Appreciate 0
      03-29-2020, 04:25 PM   #208
drledford93
Private
drledford93's Avatar
31
Rep
60
Posts

Drives: Ford Focus RS (RIP), C43 AMG
Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: Louisville, KY

iTrader: (0)

Has anyone made a video log of this install/upgrade? I'm looking at purchasing an '18 LCI and would like to explore this...(nothing was on youtube that I could find...)
Appreciate 0
      03-29-2020, 05:00 PM   #209
Nezil
Major
Nezil's Avatar
1151
Rep
1,420
Posts

Drives: LCI '18 6MT M2
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: San Francisco Bay Area

iTrader: (0)

I considered taking some photos, but decided that there are so many tutorials out there for the more complex parts that it wasn't worth bothering.

Once you have the right parts... which includes all the fastenings in my table a few posts ago...

- Disconnect battery
- Remove the plastic trim either side of the bulkhead
- Remove the steel strut brace
- Replace the shock top hat by either removing the strut and using spring compressors (more complex), or by jacking the lower control arm with the car or jack stands (easier), removing the nut and slowly lowering the jack taking the slack off the spring. The top hat can then be simply un-bolted from the strut tower and the new one bolted in. Re-fitting is the reverse of removal
- Fit the riv-nuts using any approach that works; I recommend using a serrated washer, an oversized nut, a flat washer and a bolt
- Fit the new Aluminium brace, being careful as you slide in under the fenders and up to the mount point under the windshield
- Bolt everything up but do not torque yet, replacing bolts as required
- Lower the car back down to the ground
- Tighten all bolts to the correct torque, details in the table
- Reconnect battery

If you want to replace all the trim pieces, and you should, you'll need to remove the wiper arms to get the plastic under the windshield off. Everything else after that just clips into place.

If you were closer, I'd happily offer to do this for you because it's a quick job. Louisville is a little far for me.
__________________
2018 ///M2 LCI, LBB, 6MT...

Current Performance Mods:
CSF FMIC, ER CP, Fabspeed Cat, Aquamist WMI, GFB DV+, NGK 97506, BM3 (Stage 2 93 OTS), CDV delete, UCP, M2C/M3/M4 Strut Brace, M3/M4 Reinforcement Rings
Appreciate 1
      03-29-2020, 05:01 PM   #210
Nezil
Major
Nezil's Avatar
1151
Rep
1,420
Posts

Drives: LCI '18 6MT M2
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: San Francisco Bay Area

iTrader: (0)

Sorry, I should have said that removing suspension on an F series BMW is all over YouTube, and so are the details on how to attach a riv-nut.
__________________
2018 ///M2 LCI, LBB, 6MT...

Current Performance Mods:
CSF FMIC, ER CP, Fabspeed Cat, Aquamist WMI, GFB DV+, NGK 97506, BM3 (Stage 2 93 OTS), CDV delete, UCP, M2C/M3/M4 Strut Brace, M3/M4 Reinforcement Rings
Appreciate 0
      03-30-2020, 02:22 AM   #211
Bee Pee
Brigadier General
United Kingdom
1294
Rep
4,051
Posts

Drives: AW M2 DCT
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: SW London

iTrader: (3)

Quote:
Originally Posted by drledford93 View Post
Has anyone made a video log of this install/upgrade? I'm looking at purchasing an '18 LCI and would like to explore this...(nothing was on youtube that I could find...)
This step by step is fairly comprehensive, although its for F2x cars (hence the need to change out front cross slam panel - not necessary on an M2 as it shares same front cross slam panel with M3/M4).

https://www.babybmw.net/viewtopic.ph...19998#p1119998

The most involved part is installing the alloy brace - essential as this supports/secures both 'legs' of the CFRP part.

Looking at Nezil's photos, my only additional tip would be sleeve/wrap the alloy brace in insulating tape, where its closest to the 12V +ve terminal to ensure no chance of a short.




HTH,

BP
__________________
Fettled M135i EB AT - gone but not forgotten:
AW M2 DCT
Appreciate 0
      03-30-2020, 11:32 AM   #212
drledford93
Private
drledford93's Avatar
31
Rep
60
Posts

Drives: Ford Focus RS (RIP), C43 AMG
Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: Louisville, KY

iTrader: (0)

Thanks for the help!

What is the increased rigidity/turn in feel if *just* the aluminum brace is installed? Anyone do only that and leave off the CF one?
Appreciate 0
      03-30-2020, 11:40 AM   #213
Nezil
Major
Nezil's Avatar
1151
Rep
1,420
Posts

Drives: LCI '18 6MT M2
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: San Francisco Bay Area

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by drledford93 View Post
Thanks for the help!

What is the increased rigidity/turn in feel if *just* the aluminum brace is installed? Anyone do only that and leave off the CF one?
That's all I've done so far... the CFRP I've ordered, but I bought it from an eBay seller in the UK and I've no idea when it's going to arrive.

I really want to complete the project, but I'm sure the Aluminium brace makes the biggest difference. It's not that expensive a project, so well worth doing.
__________________
2018 ///M2 LCI, LBB, 6MT...

Current Performance Mods:
CSF FMIC, ER CP, Fabspeed Cat, Aquamist WMI, GFB DV+, NGK 97506, BM3 (Stage 2 93 OTS), CDV delete, UCP, M2C/M3/M4 Strut Brace, M3/M4 Reinforcement Rings

Last edited by Nezil; 04-02-2020 at 12:49 PM..
Appreciate 0
      03-30-2020, 12:31 PM   #214
drledford93
Private
drledford93's Avatar
31
Rep
60
Posts

Drives: Ford Focus RS (RIP), C43 AMG
Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: Louisville, KY

iTrader: (0)

Thanks for the offer to help, only a small commute. I just found it a bit confusing, perusing the thread and trying to figure out the purchase list. But, then again, I was trying to parent two redheaded boys that are slightly raucous.

I posted above but thought you might see it now, any idea if just the aluminum brace would help over the steel one and without the CF part? That CF part is steep...

Daniel


Quote:
Originally Posted by Nezil View Post
I considered taking some photos, but decided that there are so many tutorials out there for the more complex parts that it wasn't worth bothering.

Once you have the right parts... which includes all the fastenings in my table a few posts ago...

- Disconnect battery
- Remove the plastic trim either side of the bulkhead
- Remove the steel strut brace
- Replace the shock top hat by either removing the strut and using spring compressors (more complex), or by jacking the lower control arm with the car or jack stands (easier), removing the nut and slowly lowering the jack taking the slack off the spring. The top hat can then be simply un-bolted from the strut tower and the new one bolted in. Re-fitting is the reverse of removal
- Fit the riv-nuts using any approach that works; I recommend using a serrated washer, an oversized nut, a flat washer and a bolt
- Fit the new Aluminium brace, being careful as you slide in under the fenders and up to the mount point under the windshield
- Bolt everything up but do not torque yet, replacing bolts as required
- Lower the car back down to the ground
- Tighten all bolts to the correct torque, details in the table
- Reconnect battery

If you want to replace all the trim pieces, and you should, you'll need to remove the wiper arms to get the plastic under the windshield off. Everything else after that just clips into place.

If you were closer, I'd happily offer to do this for you because it's a quick job. Louisville is a little far for me.
Appreciate 0
      03-30-2020, 01:12 PM   #215
Nezil
Major
Nezil's Avatar
1151
Rep
1,420
Posts

Drives: LCI '18 6MT M2
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: San Francisco Bay Area

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by drledford93 View Post
Thanks for the offer to help, only a small commute. I just found it a bit confusing, perusing the thread and trying to figure out the purchase list.
The parts list table that I made should be fairly clear, but let me explain it again for more clarity...

I divided it in to sections sort of based on what had been written elsewhere about stages for this retrofit:
  • Stage 1: Strut reinforcement rings
  • Stage 2: Aluminium Brace
  • Stage 2a: Plastic trim
  • Stage 3: CFRP Brace
You could eliminate stage 1 and save yourself some money. The M2C doesn't have these rings, but the M3 and M4 do; your call. If you do skip Stage 1, you'll still need 10 of the stock bolts that hold that strut top hats on because they're single use (torque + angle). These are listed in the 'return to stock' section; the part number is 31306869931.

Absolutely everything you need to fit the Aluminium brace only is listed in Stage 2 (except the bolts I mentioned above if you're not doing the reinforcement rings); you won't need anything else.

Stage 2a is somewhat optional. You can trim the stock plastic pieces if you prefer, and that should be fine. If, like me, you want to make it look as OEM as possible, you'll need everything in this section. I would recommend getting the strut top rubber covers, because of the reasons I mention a couple of posts down - they insulate the 12v terminal.

Quote:
But, then again, I was trying to parent two redheaded boys that are slightly raucous.
I have the same problem... not redheaded, but believe me, they're still raucous!
Quote:
I posted above but thought you might see it now, any idea if just the aluminum brace would help over the steel one and without the CF part? That CF part is steep...
I posted above you about this. Aluminium alone is well worth doing, and it's all I have currently myself. I am going to do the CFRP part, but it hasn't arrived yet so I cannot comment on the difference it makes yet.
__________________
2018 ///M2 LCI, LBB, 6MT...

Current Performance Mods:
CSF FMIC, ER CP, Fabspeed Cat, Aquamist WMI, GFB DV+, NGK 97506, BM3 (Stage 2 93 OTS), CDV delete, UCP, M2C/M3/M4 Strut Brace, M3/M4 Reinforcement Rings

Last edited by Nezil; 03-30-2020 at 01:29 PM..
Appreciate 0
      03-30-2020, 01:18 PM   #216
Nezil
Major
Nezil's Avatar
1151
Rep
1,420
Posts

Drives: LCI '18 6MT M2
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: San Francisco Bay Area

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bee Pee View Post
Looking at Nezil's photos, my only additional tip would be sleeve/wrap the alloy brace in insulating tape, where its closest to the 12V +ve terminal to ensure no chance of a short.
I'll try and get another photo of this today. That's good advice if you don't go with the correct strut tower rubber covers. The correct part has a big bit of rubber going around the aluminium section at that point, so are insulated if you fit these.

One thing I noticed is that the M2C / M3 / M4 aluminium part does have what looks like a 3D printed black plastic part just behind the 12v terminal. You can see it in my photos. This sort of creates a slightly more radiused rather than short edge where all of the other power wires are coming up from the distribution box. I think this is quite important, and without this, I'd put a lot of insulating tape. RealOEM doesn't list this separately, and I've seen some retrofit photos with it, and some without. When I sourced my aluminium section (used), I made sure it had this before I ordered it.
__________________
2018 ///M2 LCI, LBB, 6MT...

Current Performance Mods:
CSF FMIC, ER CP, Fabspeed Cat, Aquamist WMI, GFB DV+, NGK 97506, BM3 (Stage 2 93 OTS), CDV delete, UCP, M2C/M3/M4 Strut Brace, M3/M4 Reinforcement Rings
Appreciate 0
      03-30-2020, 03:09 PM   #217
Bee Pee
Brigadier General
United Kingdom
1294
Rep
4,051
Posts

Drives: AW M2 DCT
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: SW London

iTrader: (3)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nezil View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bee Pee View Post
Looking at Nezil's photos, my only additional tip would be sleeve/wrap the alloy brace in insulating tape, where its closest to the 12V +ve terminal to ensure no chance of a short.
I'll try and get another photo of this today. That's good advice if you don't go with the correct strut tower rubber covers. The correct part has a big bit of rubber going around the aluminium section at that point, so are insulated if you fit these.

One thing I noticed is that the M2C / M3 / M4 aluminium part does have what looks like a 3D printed black plastic part just behind the 12v terminal. You can see it in my photos. This sort of creates a slightly more radiused rather than short edge where all of the other power wires are coming up from the distribution box. I think this is quite important, and without this, I'd put a lot of insulating tape. RealOEM doesn't list this separately, and I've seen some retrofit photos with it, and some without. When I sourced my aluminium section (used), I made sure it had this before I ordered it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nezil View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bee Pee View Post
Looking at Nezil's photos, my only additional tip would be sleeve/wrap the alloy brace in insulating tape, where its closest to the 12V +ve terminal to ensure no chance of a short.
I'll try and get another photo of this today. That's good advice if you don't go with the correct strut tower rubber covers. The correct part has a big bit of rubber going around the aluminium section at that point, so are insulated if you fit these.

One thing I noticed is that the M2C / M3 / M4 aluminium part does have what looks like a 3D printed black plastic part just behind the 12v terminal. You can see it in my photos. This sort of creates a slightly more radiused rather than short edge where all of the other power wires are coming up from the distribution box. I think this is quite important, and without this, I'd put a lot of insulating tape. RealOEM doesn't list this separately, and I've seen some retrofit photos with it, and some without. When I sourced my aluminium section (used), I made sure it had this before I ordered it.
Nezil

I assume you mean the plastic part in the first photo (my alloy brace before fitting) and the brace during my install - showing area just fwd that I've wrapped in proximity to 12v +ve terminal.

BP
Attached Images
  
__________________
Fettled M135i EB AT - gone but not forgotten:
AW M2 DCT
Appreciate 0
      03-30-2020, 03:40 PM   #218
drledford93
Private
drledford93's Avatar
31
Rep
60
Posts

Drives: Ford Focus RS (RIP), C43 AMG
Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: Louisville, KY

iTrader: (0)

Nezil--You. Are. Fabulous.
Appreciate 0
      03-30-2020, 11:26 PM   #219
Nezil
Major
Nezil's Avatar
1151
Rep
1,420
Posts

Drives: LCI '18 6MT M2
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: San Francisco Bay Area

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bee Pee View Post
I assume you mean the plastic part in the first photo (my alloy brace before fitting) and the brace during my install - showing area just fwd that I've wrapped in proximity to 12v +ve terminal.
Yes, though it seems to be slightly larger on my car; see photos below.

You can also see the insulation offered by the strut top cover in these photos, which goes around both sides of the aluminium around the 12v area. With the plastic part as well, this almost covers the aluminium in that region.


Below is a photo with the 12v terminal hatch open. You can see from here that it would be pretty unlucky to get a short when connecting here because there is rubber & plastic all around the region exposed when you open the hatch.


I still donít have the CFRP brace installed, so the final position of the rubber insulation may not be exactly like these photos.
__________________
2018 ///M2 LCI, LBB, 6MT...

Current Performance Mods:
CSF FMIC, ER CP, Fabspeed Cat, Aquamist WMI, GFB DV+, NGK 97506, BM3 (Stage 2 93 OTS), CDV delete, UCP, M2C/M3/M4 Strut Brace, M3/M4 Reinforcement Rings
Appreciate 1
Bee Pee1293.50

      03-31-2020, 01:57 AM   #220
Bee Pee
Brigadier General
United Kingdom
1294
Rep
4,051
Posts

Drives: AW M2 DCT
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: SW London

iTrader: (3)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nezil View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bee Pee View Post
I assume you mean the plastic part in the first photo (my alloy brace before fitting) and the brace during my install - showing area just fwd that I've wrapped in proximity to 12v +ve terminal.
Yes, though it seems to be slightly larger on my car; see photos below.

You can also see the insulation offered by the strut top cover in these photos, which goes around both sides of the aluminium around the 12v area. With the plastic part as well, this almost covers the aluminium in that region.


Below is a photo with the 12v terminal hatch open. You can see from here that it would be pretty unlucky to get a short when connecting here because there is rubber & plastic all around the region exposed when you open the hatch.


I still don’t have the CFRP brace installed, so the final position of the rubber insulation may not be exactly like these photos.
Nezil

My alloy brace didn't have that extra plastic part in yr 1st photo - might see if that's available seperately for RHD cars and retrofit it.

Thanks

BP
__________________
Fettled M135i EB AT - gone but not forgotten:
AW M2 DCT
Appreciate 0
Post Reply

Bookmarks

Tags
bmw m3, bmw m4, carbon fiber strut conversion

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 01:13 AM.




m2
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
1Addicts.com, BIMMERPOST.com, E90Post.com, F30Post.com, M3Post.com, ZPost.com, 5Post.com, 6Post.com, 7Post.com, XBimmers.com logo and trademark are properties of BIMMERPOST