[medphysdave]

I was interested in having a shop swap pads for track days and then back to DD. Cost quoted was $600/swap, so $1200 to go from street-->track-->street. I nearly fell out of my chair. Does this sound like a reasonable rate? I expected $250.

I guess I need to start investing in some equipment so I can do it myself.

[M2Pilot]

Originally Posted by medphysdave

I was interested in having a shop swap pads for track days and then back to DD. Cost quoted was $600/swap, so $1200 to go from street-->track-->street. I nearly fell out of my chair. Does this sound like a reasonable rate? I expected $250.

I guess I need to start investing in some equipment so I can do it myself.

1hr job....if you take your time...

[Joebie]

ill do it for $599/swap!

sounds like i need to get into the M2 brake pad changing business.

[MooMooM2]

yeah it should be max 1 hour but to do it right you do need to replace some bolts that are 1 time use only according to BMW and I think they are like $15 each or something but even if those were $100 you still should only be at max $300. Dealer is 100% taking you for a ride, find a good indie.

[Fabb]

If it's 2nh, it might be a bit more difficult because you have to take off the caliper. Def not $600 job

[medphysdave]

I think my plan is to do my next track day with stock pads. Upgrade my warranty for $700 to include brakes. Get the factory pads replaced. Invest in electric impact and lightweight jack. Buy track pads that play nice with factory compound for my 3rd event. Then I can do the work myself.

Would you really replace the bolts between track sessions, or just replace them when reverting back to stock pads?

[M Fifty]

Fluid. Replace the fluid with something a little more durable. Just saying...

[medphysdave]

Originally Posted by M Fifty

Fluid. Replace the fluid with something a little more durable. Just saying...

I'm running Castrol SRF. . Did that ASAP. The stock pads aren't that bad. They'll fade, but with the SRF you just have to work them. If you stand on the brake pedal they'll get you stopped even when baked. I just have to be really aggressive. Pedal feel leaves a bit to be desired. I'm wondering if some Spiegel brake lines would help.

Edit: and I have to adjust my brake zone.

[M Fifty]

Well, to your original question: If you have OG/LCI rather than 2NH brakes, it should take you longer to jack the car up and remove the wheel that it does to remove the pins, push the pistons back (a large screwdriver will do), unclip the sensor, and slide the pads out, before replacing all the above with the new pads.

HTH?

[medphysdave]

Originally Posted by M Fifty

Well, to your original question: If you have OG/LCI rather than 2NH brakes, it should take you longer to jack the car up and remove the wheel that it does to remove the pins, push the pistons back (a large screwdriver will do), unclip the sensor, and slide the pads out, before replacing all the above with the new pads.

HTH?

Fortunately or unfortunately I have the 2NH brakes.

[PackPride85]

Originally Posted by medphysdave

I'm running Castrol SRF. . Did that ASAP. The stock pads aren't that bad. They'll fade, but with the SRF you just have to work them. If you stand on the brake pedal they'll get you stopped even when baked. I just have to be really aggressive. Pedal feel leaves a bit to be desired. I'm wondering if some Spiegel brake lines would help.

Edit: and I have to adjust my brake zone.

Brake lines don't change the feel at all on this car. Get track pads. Makes a huge difference and you won't murder your street pads.

[///393]

Originally Posted by medphysdave

Fortunately or unfortunately I have the 2NH brakes.

Definitely unfortunate IMO.

If you’re into the activity for good you may consider flipping your stock 2NH setup in favor of a AP kit from Essex where swapping pads is far easier to DIY quickly.

Bonus benefit is the ability to fit 18s which unlock more tire options and save you about $600 a set compared to 19s.

[PackPride85]

Originally Posted by wilson kop

Definitely unfortunate IMO.

If you’re into the activity for good you may consider flipping your stock 2NH setup in favor of a AP kit from Essex where swapping pads is far easier to DIY quickly.

Bonus benefit is the ability to fit 18s which unlock more tire options and save you about $600 a set compared to 19s.

I'll add here that as an OG M2 owner who tracks I still will swap my own pads own before and after track weekend in my garage. Yeah it's only two pins but still takes time at the track in the morning. Also, leaving them on Sunday after the last session the brakes are hotter than the damn sun so you're either waiting a long ass time for them to cool down or you leave them on for drive home. I do the latter.

Considering all the other stuff I set up in the morning (tent,chair, tools) the most I'd really care to do is wheel swap at 5 min a wheel.

[omasou]

I always swap pads and rotors. One for street one for track. I never mix and match.

Oh, and yes you need to learn how do do this yourself or pay!!!!

[Track/S]

Originally Posted by wilson kop

Bonus benefit is the ability to fit 18s which unlock more tire options and save you about $600 a set compared to 19s.

I do not understand what is the problem with the change of pads? It is not the first time that I read this comment and for me this is absurd, spend 4000 dollars on a brake kit because it is faster to change the pads? who cares? Could you give an example with a difference of 600 dollars between tire size 18 and 19?

[PackPride85]

Originally Posted by Prodrive_X

I do not understand what is the problem with the change of pads? It is not the first time that I read this comment and for me this is absurd, spend 4000 dollars on a brake kit because it is faster to change the pads? who cares? Could you give an example with a difference of 600 dollars between tire size 18 and 19?

It's definitely not $600 lol. More like $200 but the track tire selection for 18s are also much better than 19s. Wheels are cheaper as well.

I also don't swap rotors between my stock pads and DTC 60s and have never seen issues other than maybe accelerated wear on the rotors. 42k miles and two track weekends and I'm down to about 29.2mm. 28.4 is minimum thickness. Might get one more track weekend out of them.

Unless you are a serious track person doing comp stuff i don't think its worth the $4k for the AP kit. I'd just stick with the 2NH brakes. It's not that much time to pop the caliper off each time if you're prepping the car beforehand at your house.

[HP Autosport]

You have to pay your shop for their time, that is how they are able keep their doors open.

If their shop rate is $200 an hour and they are charging you 3 hours for the entire front and rear pad swap, that is not too outrageous. Dealer shop rates are often $225-250 these days.

Just like any work, you can always find someone willing to do it for less.

[PackPride85]

Originally Posted by HP Autosport

You have to pay your shop for their time, that is how they are able keep their doors open.

If their shop rate is $200 an hour and they are charging you 3 hours for the entire front and rear pad swap, that is not too outrageous. Dealer shop rates are often $225-250 these days.

Just like any work, you can always find someone willing to do it for less.

It doesn't take 3 hours to swap the pads on this car unless you stop for a few beers and take 3 or 4 shits lol. Even with the extra step for the 2NH brakes of removing the caliper.

[HP Autosport]

Originally Posted by PackPride85

It doesn't take 3 hours to swap the pads on this car unless you stop for a few beers and take 3 or 4 shits lol. Even with the extra step for the 2NH brakes of removing the caliper.

Shop time vs actual time. Shop charges shop time no matter what the job takes. If the job end up taking 10 hours, they are charing you 3.

You can always find someone to do it for less or DIY.