[dmf]

Hi All

Had my first go at doing a brake pad inspection/pretend swap now that I've got my kit together. I've got an M2C fitted with these Brembo calipers . Functionally they've been great with the stock FM1000 pads.

For the most part things went well, but I feel like I made it harder for not knowing the correct process/order in which to do things. To swap the pads out I had to take the caliper completely off and work within the wheel arch. Given the design, not surprising, but reinstalling the pads while fidgeting with the bracket and then holding the pads in place while getting the caliper back onto the rotor took lots of attempts. I had the caliper resting on top of a bucket since the brake line isn't that long as well.

Totally fine if this is just the way things are, but also interested in any tips folks might have in making the process easier or take fewer attempts.

Thanks in advance!

(side note: if someone happens to know the thickness of the backing plate on FM1000 pads, that would be great. Absent mind-idly took a measure including the backing plate, without then measuring the backing plate)

[PilotxERAU]

Originally Posted by dmf

Hi All

Had my first go at doing a brake pad inspection/pretend swap now that I've got my kit together. I've got an M2C fitted with these Brembo calipers . Functionally they've been great with the stock FM1000 pads.

For the most part things went well, but I feel like I made it harder for not knowing the correct process/order in which to do things. To swap the pads out I had to take the caliper completely off and work within the wheel arch. Given the design, not surprising, but reinstalling the pads while fidgeting with the bracket and then holding the pads in place while getting the caliper back onto the rotor took lots of attempts. I had the caliper resting on top of a bucket since the brake line isn't that long as well.

Totally fine if this is just the way things are, but also interested in any tips folks might have in making the process easier or take fewer attempts.

Thanks in advance!

(side note: if someone happens to know the thickness of the backing plate on FM1000 pads, that would be great. Absent mind-idly took a measure including the backing plate, without then measuring the backing plate)

Pictures!!!? And what is the total weight of the system per side?

[omasou]

In the past and I'm expecting to do the same to hold the caliper on the M2C. I use mini bungee cords and hang them from the spring or spring hat.

Mini Bungee Cords

For the pads, can you put them in the carrier and then let the rotor separate them as you slowly push them on?

[jritt@essex]

Originally Posted by dmf

Hi All

Had my first go at doing a brake pad inspection/pretend swap now that I've got my kit together. I've got an M2C fitted with these Brembo calipers . Functionally they've been great with the stock FM1000 pads.

For the most part things went well, but I feel like I made it harder for not knowing the correct process/order in which to do things. To swap the pads out I had to take the caliper completely off and work within the wheel arch. Given the design, not surprising, but reinstalling the pads while fidgeting with the bracket and then holding the pads in place while getting the caliper back onto the rotor took lots of attempts. I had the caliper resting on top of a bucket since the brake line isn't that long as well.

Totally fine if this is just the way things are, but also interested in any tips folks might have in making the process easier or take fewer attempts.

Thanks in advance!

(side note: if someone happens to know the thickness of the backing plate on FM1000 pads, that would be great. Absent mind-idly took a measure including the backing plate, without then measuring the backing plate)

As noted above, a bungie cord works well to hang calipers from the suspension components. You never want to let them hang from the brake line, as that puts a ton of stress on the line.

Do you have a picture of the brake pad shape? Brembo used to use the shape below in their Mono6, but I'm not sure if they changed the pad shape for this newest line of calipers.
https://ecat.ferodoracing.com/index....FRP3099#detail

If we ID the pad shape I can check the backing plate thickness off of something comparable in our warehouse. Most of the plates for a pad in that size range are roughly 6-7mm thick.

[dmf]

The brake pads part number is 107955113 and the shape diagram is here.

For those interested, general pictures here and on the track

The weight numbers escape me right now and amazingly the specs just aren't published anywhere. Next time I've got the caliper off I'll take a set of scales out.

To clarify, at no point was I hanging the caliper via the brake line. Rather I had it resting on a bucket that was high enough that the brake line was never under any tension. Hanging with a bungee cord was one idea, but I think the only reason I was able to get the bracket in was because I could turn it upside down and let gravity hold the bracket in place while I slotted the pads in. That being said the cords would probably make it easier when cleaning them.

[M Fifty]

Originally Posted by dmf

The brake pads part number is 107955113 and the shape diagram is here.

For those interested, general pictures here and on the track

The weight numbers escape me right now and amazingly the specs just aren't published anywhere. Next time I've got the caliper off I'll take a set of scales out.

To clarify, at no point was I hanging the caliper via the brake line. Rather I had it resting on a bucket that was high enough that the brake line was never under any tension. Hanging with a bungee cord was one idea, but I think the only reason I was able to get the bracket in was because I could turn it upside down and let gravity hold the bracket in place while I slotted the pads in. That being said the cords would probably make it easier when cleaning them.

I'm not sure why (aside from being a pain to keep clean), but the stock M2C wheels don't do it for me? Something with a deeper dish and more flowing spoke design...

[dmf]

I've been contemplating a set of Titan7 T-S5 wheels for track work, but they look quite nice anyway so wondering if I'll just keep them on if I do wind up with a set.

[COChris]

I agree it can be very tricky to get the front pads in, especially if they are not OEM. A friend showed me that it can be made easier by mounting the caliper to the bracket after you've installed pads on one side. Push the caliper and pad against the disk to get the pistons where you want them (flush) to install the opposite pad.

[mcvaughan]

A good step by step would be helpful. My shop installed 1.11's and they're too noisy for street use. Will swap back to them when I hit the track.

[jritt@essex]

Originally Posted by mcvaughan

A good step by step would be helpful. My shop installed 1.11's and they're too noisy for street use. Will swap back to them when I hit the track.

The Ferodo DS2500 is a much better choice than 1.11 for the road. The DS2500 is incredibly versatile and is great for road, autoX, canyons, and even light track duty.

To the OP, it looks like your caliper does take the Ferodo FRP3099 shape based on the diagram you posted. I measure the backing plate thickness on that pad at 5.8mm thick. Also FYI...the FM1000 is essentially the same as the DS2500. The FM stands for Federal Mogul, who are the parent company of Ferodo.

The DS2500 in that shape can be found in the link below...we typically hold several sets in inventory.

https://www.essexparts.com/ferodo-ds2500-brake-pads1027

[dmf]

Thanks for the info jritt!

If I were to step up instead to a D1.11 or DSUNO for track work, are the compounds compatible with rotors previously used with FM1000/DS2500 pads? Good to know (from your site) that the 1.11s are generally friendly to rotors.

So based on that, my front pads measured ~15.4mm including the backing plate/pad material and going by your first link the pads ship as 17.5mm thickness including the plate. Means only ~2mm loss after 2 x Thunderhill 2-mile and 1 x Laguna Seca track days...not bad.

Additionally, I've got this shape for my rear calipers (link to system). Any hints on the FM/Ferodo shape code for that one?

[jritt@essex]

No problem. The DS1.11, 3.12, DSUNO, and DS2500 are all made from the same core materials. There's no need to re-bed them, scrub them, etc. after running one and switching to another. You'll just want to do a light bed-in to get the pads seated and get their faces leveled with the disc faces.

I'll see if I can figure out the rears for you.

Originally Posted by dmf

Thanks for the info jritt!

If I were to step up instead to a D1.11 or DSUNO for track work, are the compounds compatible with rotors previously used with FM1000/DS2500 pads? Good to know (from your site) that the 1.11s are generally friendly to rotors.

So based on that, my front pads measured ~15.4mm including the backing plate/pad material and going by your first link the pads ship as 17.5mm thickness including the plate. Means only ~2mm loss after 2 x Thunderhill 2-mile and 1 x Laguna Seca track days...not bad.

Additionally, I've got this shape for my rear calipers (link to system). Any hints on the FM/Ferodo shape code for that one?

[jritt@essex]

Originally Posted by dmf

Additionally, I've got this shape for my rear calipers (link to system). Any hints on the FM/Ferodo shape code for that one?

Your rear shape is an FCP1281..a very common shape we stock in all compounds as well:
https://www.essexparts.com/ferodo-ds2500-brake-pads522

You do realize you could have avoided this entire thread if you had just gone with one of our AP Racing systems (couldn't resist giving you a hard time)!

[dmf]

100% deserved - should have done my research a bit more.

Such is life

[jritt@essex]

Originally Posted by dmf

100% deserved - should have done my research a bit more.

Such is life

Hahaha...you have a nice system, just enjoy it! I couldn't resist busting your stones a bit. Thanks for being a good sport.

[PilotxERAU]

Originally Posted by dmf

Thanks for the info jritt!

If I were to step up instead to a D1.11 or DSUNO for track work, are the compounds compatible with rotors previously used with FM1000/DS2500 pads? Good to know (from your site) that the 1.11s are generally friendly to rotors.

So based on that, my front pads measured ~15.4mm including the backing plate/pad material and going by your first link the pads ship as 17.5mm thickness including the plate. Means only ~2mm loss after 2 x Thunderhill 2-mile and 1 x Laguna Seca track days...not bad.

Additionally, I've got this shape for my rear calipers (link to system). Any hints on the FM/Ferodo shape code for that one?

What weights are we talking about here? My main reason for lookin at AP racing is the unsprung mass savings. The Brembo’s have the sexy factor though!