10-25-2019, 01:25 AM | #45 | |
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From start to finish was 55 minutes. I did the following: 1. Swap front pads. 2. Reset bump and rebound on front shocks. 3. Reset front camber plates to -3.0. 4. Swap rear pads. 5. Reset bump and camber on rear shocks. 6. Checked torque on all wheel lugs. 7. Checked and reset all tyre pressures. 8. Checked brake fluid level after the pad change. After that I drove to the servo and filled her up. A couple of moderate stops on the way home just to make sure the brakes were bedded and the pedal felt right and by the time I got home the engine was warm enough for an oil level check. The last paragraph added another 20 minutes but that could also be done on the way to the track in the morning if you prefer. In summary - about an hour is the answer to your question. Maybe 45 minutes if you are quick and 30 if you have a helper. It's not much. |
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m7ammed210.00 |
10-26-2019, 06:31 AM | #46 | ||
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10-26-2019, 06:58 AM | #47 | |
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If you can imagine the struts were vertical (no castor) then adding camber would have zero affect on toe. However, with castor present, moving the upper shock mounts inboard (via camber plates) will have some minor effect to increase toe out. I can either work this out via doing the trigonometry/math or perhaps easier, taking a before and after toe measurement since I have the equipment to do this. Project for tomorrow... Since I normally run 1mm toe in on the street, if this changes to zero, it will be a happy coincidence that will suit track handling. If it changes much more than that, I may need to incorporate a quick front toe adjustment into my set-up routine. Experience tells me it isn't behaving like a car with excessive toe out when I increase the camber from -2.0 (1mm toe in) to -3.0 (?? toe in/out). Also, I'm sure that 99% of weekend track enthusiasts are simply pushing the strut tops inboard to a pre-determined position and are none-the-wiser about toe changes between the two settings. |
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Daytona_550463.50 |
10-26-2019, 11:44 PM | #48 | |
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