[3LiterBeater]

What rotor is everyone using on track? I ran the DS1.11 this weekend and I'm convinced the OEM rotors are made of cheese. They worked very well, however. First time tracking my M2, was very pleased.

What pad combo are you using and how much time do you get out of each? Thanks!

(Pic was after first session, only I had)

[5.M0NSTER]

I use PFC08 on factory rotors. 7 days so far. Pads are still at ~60%. Rotors show cracking, but still over min thickness, and BMW told me to just keep on running them.

[3LiterBeater]

Originally Posted by 5.M0NSTER

I use PFC08 on factory rotors. 7 days so far. Pads are still at ~60%. Rotors show cracking, but still over min thickness, and BMW told me to just keep on running them.

I'm wondering if the pads are just too aggressive on my end.

Love the 08, have used them very successfully in club racing over the years!

Also, I'd run the rotor until the cracks connect holes or extend to the edges of the friction material.

[dvas]

What makes you think the "oem rotors are made of cheese?" Can't really tell by your pic, other than it looks like you have uneven deposits.

I have been running PFC 08s with oem rotors without issue since 2017. Perhaps ~50 or so days total. I've been replacing the front rotors with new oem's roughly every other year after the cracks start connecting.

[ZM2]

PFC 11 and DS3.12 last ~75% as long as PFC 08 and DS1.11, but are nicer to the rotors.

Total cost probably balances out by the time you go thru a cpl rotor sets, so personal pad feel preference ends up being the decider.

For me, I like the 11’s and 3.12s more.

[3LiterBeater]

Originally Posted by dvas

What makes you think the "oem rotors are made of cheese?" Can't really tell by your pic, other than it looks like you have uneven deposits.

I have been running PFC 08s with oem rotors without issue since 2017. Perhaps ~50 or so days total. I've been replacing the front rotors with new oem's roughly every other year after the cracks start connecting.

Only my sense of humor, I'd bet maybe 1mm of material was shaved off of the face of the rotor over one weekend/ 7 sessions.

Previous cars would allow me to go 3-4 sets of pads per rotor. Our race car has probably had 8 sets of PFCs (it is also considerably lighter)

Pretty wild to me! But the brakes gave me 0 issues so I was fairly happy

Attached is a more recent pic from today. I'm used to seeing the "polished" rotor surface where these pads seems to have chewed them up.

[bentom2]

I was able to get 2-3 sets of pads on a set of rotors with a mix of RSL29, RSL1, and PFC08 as I experimented with different compounds over 50 or so days.

To answer your actual question, Girodisc makes a 2 piece rotor with replaceable rings. Upfront cost is double the cost of OEM rotors, but a set of replacement rings is roughly equivalent to OEM rotor cost.

I didn’t actually try them though. Ended up putting an AP/Essex kit on over the winter as my calipers were pretty cooked as well. Might still try them on the rear.

[pruettfan]

I recently switched after about 50 track days on OEM rotors (40 days on first set and 10 on the second) to AP Racing / Essex setup for the front. Pretty pricey but I recommend them highly for them if you are doing a lot of track days. In hindsight I should have done that mod a while ago.

My buddy has an M2 Comp and we recently put the Giro Disc rotors on his front. They are excellent and I believe well worth the 1200 bucks for the set (again if you are tracking a lot. I ended up picking up a set for my rears as I am running OEM calipers so Essex won't work.

[3LiterBeater]

Originally Posted by bentom2

I was able to get 2-3 sets of pads on a set of rotors with a mix of RSL29, RSL1, and PFC08 as I experimented with different compounds over 50 or so days.

To answer your actual question, Girodisc makes a 2 piece rotor with replaceable rings. Upfront cost is double the cost of OEM rotors, but a set of replacement rings is roughly equivalent to OEM rotor cost.

I didn't actually try them though. Ended up putting an AP/Essex kit on over the winter as my calipers were pretty cooked as well. Might still try them on the rear.

My brief search of Girodisc rings looked like 800 per ring which seemed a little steep. They look fantastic, however. Would be willing to try them!

I'm assuming my calipers will soon turn green. Going to try some ducting as others have posted

[bentom2]

Originally Posted by 3LiterBeater

My brief search of Girodisc rings looked like 800 per ring which seemed a little steep. They look fantastic, however. Would be willing to try them!

I'm assuming my calipers will soon turn green. Going to try some ducting as others have posted

Fair enough. It’s a bit more for rings. 🙂

I ran ducting and it seemed to help some, but at least as far as I took my efforts, it also deposited piles of tire slag on the inside of the rotor hat. Removed it all and went back to ductless for most of last year after I came off with smoke pouring out of one wheel well due to the tire slag inside the rotor hat cooking. So think about grilles for your intakes when working on a solution.

[5.M0NSTER]

Originally Posted by bentom2

Fair enough. It’s a bit more for rings. ��

I ran ducting and it seemed to help some, but at least as far as I took my efforts, it also deposited piles of tire slag on the inside of the rotor hat. Removed it all and went back to ductless for most of last year after I came off with smoke pouring out of one wheel well due to the tire slag inside the rotor hat cooking. So think about grilles for your intakes when working on a solution.

That is a good point, and it never actually occurred to me when pondering cooling ducts. Thanks for sharing your insight!

On the topic of rotors, I have tried cryogenic and slotted rotors before on my Mustang. I didn't see enough of a difference to stick with one or the other vs. OEM. Slotted made the pads disappear quicker, cryo took a bit longer to crack, so in the end for the money OEM style was the sweet spot for my usage. But I only do 5 days per year max.

[3LiterBeater]

Originally Posted by bentom2

Fair enough. It’s a bit more for rings. 🙂

I ran ducting and it seemed to help some, but at least as far as I took my efforts, it also deposited piles of tire slag on the inside of the rotor hat. Removed it all and went back to ductless for most of last year after I came off with smoke pouring out of one wheel well due to the tire slag inside the rotor hat cooking. So think about grilles for your intakes when working on a solution.

Oh fun! I'm sure that wasn't worrying at all.

I'm going to try the GT3 scoops that seem to direct air in there rather than a hose

[3LiterBeater]

Originally Posted by pruettfan

I recently switched after about 50 track days on OEM rotors (40 days on first set and 10 on the second) to AP Racing / Essex setup for the front. Pretty pricey but I recommend them highly for them if you are doing a lot of track days. In hindsight I should have done that mod a while ago.

My buddy has an M2 Comp and we recently put the Giro Disc rotors on his front. They are excellent and I believe well worth the 1200 bucks for the set (again if you are tracking a lot. I ended up picking up a set for my rears as I am running OEM calipers so Essex won't work.

I may give those a shot! Curious if they'll hold up better to an aggressive pad as the OEMs

[detroitm2]

I'd just stick with OEM for now. If you're not going to AP Racing brakes or the like, I don't see any advantage to going aftermarket.

If you purchase your rotors from fcpeuro, you get lifetime replacement for free. Just gotta cover shipping on them.