[ThreeStripes]

I wanted to share a quick review of the OG Shark Motorsport custom Nitron NTR R1 since you don't see nearly as much discussion on something like this as you do Ohlins, KW, MCS, and TC Kline (at least in the US). The full details of the package is covered in this thread but it includes everything you need including Nitron camber plates. The camber plates are such a sweet piece they deserve a deep dive by one of the deep dive nerds but even as an idiot you can tell it's a quality motorsports grade kit.

image for ref so you know what the hell I'm talking about


I started tracking my M2 in 2021 at Barber Motorsports Park and have run about 6-8 events a year since. I learned the car stock on 300tw Pilot Super Sports before messing with tires or suspension. Eventually I added the TC Kline kit. I decided on the TCK setup for a few reasons.

- It was recommended by an instructor with Porsche Experience who had an M2 along with my mechanic.
- I found a set used for $1400 that just fell in my lap
- I could adjust camber and save tires
- It would address the cars stock damping, which is needlessly harsh. The stock suspension was actually well balanced on track, but the street ride could be improved so this would provide both track and street benefits

After adding the the SA/DA setup with street rates and moving to a 200tw tire, my times at Barber started dropping significantly. I went from running 1:47s to 1:44s and after some good feedback from a coach down to 1:42s. I was noticing a problem exiting T3 though as the pace picked up and the lap times fell. The car was bottoming out the left side damper. It was running out of stroke. Not a great feeling when pushing on track. It didn't disrupt the car but it didn't exactly inspire confidence either. Not to mention wanting to be easy on the car... it was slowing me down. At best it was preventing me personally from going any faster.

Despite this limitation I added SPL rear toe arms and got a better alignment and moved to 275/295 Bridgestone RE71RS, gained confidence and seat time and the car went 1:41. With everything I had done at that point to the car, it felt great beyond the bottoming out issue so I kept driving it thinking I'd just deal but this was not a great plan. I pushed it chasing a friend and went 1:39. At this pace, the left side of the car was just flat out giving up. Not only was it bottoming out at T3 exit it was now doing the same thing through T12. The suspension had become the limiting factor. A photographer snapped this shot showing the TCK units out of travel at the faster pace.

TC Kline SA/DA 300/600 rates giving up


I knew that if I wanted to go any faster I was going to need stiffer spring rates and a more serious damper, and that meant I had to make a switch. I had been eyeing MCS 2ways after a good friend added some to his E92 M3 track car, but after a random opportunity to ride shotgun at Barber in Anonymoose's wild M2C that runs the OGSM Nitron R1 I was sold. After just a few hot laps with OG Shark at the wheel, I knew I had found what I was after. The R1 delivered better body control and most importantly didn't bottom out and give up the ghost when pushed. (I had to tell OG Shark to stop farting around and start pushing but he eventually lit it up to a pace that would have exposed the TCK).

I ordered a set a week later instead of MCS 2Way because:

- The R1 has custom damping designed for street comfort by Inertia Labs developed by Jason of OG Shark Motorsport and this is not the focus with the Bimmerworld MCS I would have ended up with instead. All while supporting incredible pace as shown with Project 223
- Jason specs the front spring setup with max width rubber in mind so you never have to worry about clearance issues
- Considering what's inside the R1 and how it compares to TTX/MCS/JRZ etc it's an incredible value. Especially considering the extra work that goes into these at Inertia Laboratory.

I knew that I was getting a better tool for the track but the verdict was out on the street. I only experienced them on track and had to trust Jason when he said he spec'd them for dual duty. It took me a while, but I finally got the TCK out and the Nitron R1s installed a couple weeks back. When I picked it up, I could immediately tell the car was much firmer. But, weirdly, no less comfortable. The TCK were like riding on clouds compared to stock. The Nitron's had the same crazy ability as my buddies MCS to somehow deliver comfort and stiffness. My first impression day one was that it felt like I had a cage installed. The whole car just felt stiffer and more responsive. It was amazing.

Having lived with them for a couple weeks now I can confidently say the car has sacrificed 0 comfort on the street though. This is mind you, while delivering insanely sharp steering response and way more lateral roll stiffness. It has so much more mechanical grip. Body roll is gone, and the car feels sharp as a razor. That was the first feedback a friend gave hopping out of it after a back road run today. "The response!" This after driving it back to back with his M3 on MCS 2ways and RE71s no less. Having pushed the car now, I can honestly say it's transformed.

I'll have a chance to get it back out at Barber in the new year after a full geometry reset at which point I'll share more feedback. I fully expect to see higher corner speeds and have a more controlled car despite the increase in pace. I'll update this post then but for anyone that's looking around at options for a motorsports grade unit that's ideal for the street I'd say look no further. I couldn't be happier that I didn't just get something off the shelf, as you can really appreciate the development that has gone into these.

For those interested you can read more about Inertia Laboratory and their work on super high end race shit like Tractive, JRZ, Ohlins, Quantum, JRi, Nitron and Penske shocks at http://www.inertialaboratory.com and check out this quick intro video

You can see more on OG Shark Motorsport by checking out their instagram at https://www.instagram.com/teamogshark/

My 2017 M2 and and it's specs as it sits:


Power
Active Autowerke Downpipe
Turner Motorsports Charge Pipe
CSF Intercooler
BM3 S2 tune

Suspension
OGSM x Inertia Labs Nitron R1
SPL rear toe arms
SPL front end links
BimmerWorld front thrust arm monoballs

Brakes
PFC 08 Pads
Bimmerworld SS Brake Lines
Castrol SRF Fluid

Wheels/Tires
Apex VS-5RS 18x10 18x11
Bridgestone RE71RS 275/295 /35/18
Rays G025 PS4S (Street)


unboxing pic courtesy of cloumeM because
mine would have sucked

[medphysdave]

Great read. What geometry changes are you making? Our cars are very similar. I'm excited about the E-tron versions of the R1 and R3. A will hopefully put on a set next year when testing is complete.

[ThreeStripes]

No new toe or camber settings. Just resetting the alignment since camber was just set roughly at install. May get it corner balanced at that time.

Really happy with the toe and camber settings I copied from ZM2(along with his wheel setup). Getting good wear.

.04 total front toe
.27 total rear toe
-3* camber up front
-2* camber rear (I think? Maybe 2.2?)

One other thing I forgot to add was how kick ass the support and communication was the entire way. I got white glove service and support and it’s awesome to know that I’ve got both OGSM and Inertia Lab as resources for service and support going forward.

[OG Shark]

Absolutely appreciate the feedback ThreeStripes and glad you like them!

Ouch on had to tell me to pick up the pace at Barber Pretty harsh doing me dirty like that in a public setting. I got the impression you likely had a fragile stomach and didn't want you painting the inside of Anonymoose 's car with breakfast so took it easy on you . But now I'm resolved to keep Schnucki (the black comp) on hand for awhile so I can get back up there this year and redeem myself.

[Anonymoose]

Originally Posted by OG Shark

Absolutely appreciate the feedback ThreeStripes and glad you like them!

Ouch on had to tell me to pick up the pace at Barber Pretty harsh doing me dirty like that in a public setting. I got the impression you likely had a fragile stomach and didn't want you painting the inside of Anonymoose 's car with breakfast so took it easy on you . But now I'm resolved to keep Schnucki (the black comp) on hand for awhile so I can get back up there this year and redeem myself.

Nah go ahead and sell your m2. Just let me know when you want to go back to Barber. I’ll give you my car for the weekend.

[ThreeStripes]

Originally Posted by Anonymoose

Nah go ahead and sell your m2. Just let me know when you want to go back to Barber. I’ll give you my car for the weekend.

Either way both of y’all are due back in ‘24. I want to see a F8X go 1:33 there and both of those cars have the right stuff to make that happen.

Reference point for the broader audience: Famous Racing Driver Andy Pilgrim allegedly set a 1:35.75 in a 991.1 PDK GT3 for autoweek.com which is basically my personal target time for myself in this OG. The car is capable of it as it sits, it just needs a better driver.

[medphysdave]

Originally Posted by ThreeStripes

Either way both of y’all are due back in ‘24. I want to see a F8X go 1:33 there and both of those cars have the right stuff to make that happen.

Reference point for the broader audience: Famous Racing Driver Andy Pilgrim allegedly set a 1:35.75 in a 991.1 PDK GT3 for autoweek.com which is basically my personal target time for myself in this OG. The car is capable of it as it sits, it just needs a better driver.

That would be crazy to turn a lap like that while still rolling with a full interior and no cage. My goal is a very competent grocery getter.

[Swank]

Great review, I’ve been researching coilovers and this was the type of review on the R1’s I was trying to find. Do you need spacers to fit the wheels with the R1’s or are you able to dial in the alignment to fit them?

[ThreeStripes]

Originally Posted by Swank

Great review, I’ve been researching coilovers and this was the type of review on the R1’s I was trying to find. Do you need spacers to fit the wheels with the R1’s or are you able to dial in the alignment to fit them?

No spacers are needed for either set of wheels. Clearance is exceptional and supports maximum width rubber for F87 by design. The Rays G025 shown are stock sizes just 5mm lower offset. Apex set for track is spec’d for max rubber.

[medphysdave]

Originally Posted by ThreeStripes

No spacers are needed for either set of wheels. Clearance is exceptional and supports maximum width rubber for F87 by design. The Rays G025 shown are stock sizes just 5mm lower offset. Apex set for track is spec’d for max rubber.

What ride height are you running? Any word on the optimal ride height to retain full suspension travel? Have you had to adjust roll center at all or is it a non issue for the amount you are lowered?

I think corner balancing will be worthwhile. I can't decide if I want to get a set of my own scales or pay to have it done. Seems like the cost to have it done is about the same as getting a set of scales (Maybe not the high end scales).

[ThreeStripes]

Originally Posted by medphysdave

What ride height are you running? Any word on the optimal ride height to retain full suspension travel? Have you had to adjust roll center at all or is it a non issue for the amount you are lowered?

I think corner balancing will be worthwhile. I can't decide if I want to get a set of my own scales or pay to have it done. Seems like the cost to have it done is about the same as getting a set of scales (Maybe not the high end scales).

I target roughly 595f/600r per BMW for their KWs but use this as rough guide because it’s a street car first and looks do matter. As a result, it’s probably closer to 590 up front currently. TC Kline advised to keep rear roughly .25in higher than front for his kit but beyond that to set it to taste for what that’s worth. Nitron doesn’t provide any specs for ride height to my knowledge but recommends “full geo” for maximum performance.

My understanding is that ideally you corner weight during alignment because they’re interconnected to a degree, however small the impact may be so I’d leave it to a race shop to handle if you’re going to corner balance. BMW engineers these cars well so from what I understand the room for improvement is marginal unlike a scratch built E46 race car or something where weight spread isn’t the same as factory.

Re: roll center correction, I may eventually do the Team Schirmer rear axle correction bushings they offer but will likely hold off on addressing the front axle with the SPL control arm as that’s a step further than I want to go for my daily office taxi. Same goes for the diff lift kit. Want it, but don’t want to overdue it for a car that’s truly a daily driver.

It’s really easy to take an amazing street car from BMW and fuck it up by focusing it too much towards track performance and I’m really trying hard to avoid doing that until I’ve got more room for more cars and this is no longer the daily. That said, I am adding another 50whp up top from the Pure500 hoping it will give it the legs it needs to run up the asshole of the 911 GT3 dipshits that sometimes like to “forget” to point.

[medphysdave]

Originally Posted by ThreeStripes

I target roughly 595f/600r per BMW for their KWs but use this as rough guide because it’s a street car first and looks do matter. As a result, it’s probably closer to 590 up front currently. TC Kline advised to keep rear roughly .25in higher than front for his kit but beyond that to set it to taste for what that’s worth. Nitron doesn’t provide any specs for ride height to my knowledge but recommends “full geo” for maximum performance.

My understanding is that ideally you corner weight during alignment because they’re interconnected to a degree, however small the impact may be so I’d leave it to a race shop to handle if you’re going to corner balance. BMW engineers these cars well so from what I understand the room for improvement is marginal unlike a scratch built E46 race car or something where weight spread isn’t the same as factory.

Re: roll center correction, I may eventually do the Team Schirmer rear axle correction bushings they offer but will likely hold off on addressing the front axle with the SPL control arm as that’s a step further than I want to go for my daily office taxi. Same goes for the diff lift kit. Want it, but don’t want to overdue it for a car that’s truly a daily driver.

It’s really easy to take an amazing street car from BMW and fuck it up by focusing it too much towards track performance and I’m really trying hard to avoid doing that until I’ve got more room for more cars and this is no longer the daily. That said, I am adding another 50whp up top from the Pure500 hoping it will give it the legs it needs to run up the asshole of the [...]

I understand completely on the daily. I'm hoping the Nitrons will quiet down some of my front end noise. I'm assuming it's the springs on the camber plate perches, but it could be the SPL LCA. It doesn't sound like the LCA, but not sure.

After that the plan is to have TrackS put together a set of front and rear arms for me. My goal is to keep things as quiet as possible.

[Swank]

Originally Posted by ThreeStripes

No spacers are needed for either set of wheels. Clearance is exceptional and supports maximum width rubber for F87 by design. The Rays G025 shown are stock sizes just 5mm lower offset. Apex set for track is spec’d for max rubber.

Awesome, would you mind sharing the offsets you use?

[ThreeStripes]

Originally Posted by Swank

Awesome, would you mind sharing the offsets you use?

Rays G025 19x9 +23 | 19x10 +34
Michelin Pilot Sport 4S 245/35/19 & 265/35/19

Apex VS-5RS 18x10 +25 | 18x11 +44
Bridgestone RE71RS 275/35/18 & 295/35/18

[jwr9152]

Great write up. Will have to look into the Nitrons. Would love to meet up with you guys at Barber some time.

[medphysdave]

Used set popped up for sale in the classifieds.

[MooMooM2]

Originally Posted by medphysdave

Used set popped up for sale in the classifieds.

🤫

[OG Shark]

Originally Posted by ThreeStripes

I target roughly 595f/600r per BMW for their KWs but use this as rough guide because it’s a street car first and looks do matter. As a result, it’s probably closer to 590 up front currently. TC Kline advised to keep rear roughly .25in higher than front for his kit but beyond that to set it to taste for what that’s worth. Nitron doesn’t provide any specs for ride height to my knowledge but recommends “full geo” for maximum performance.

My understanding is that ideally you corner weight during alignment because they’re interconnected to a degree, however small the impact may be so I’d leave it to a race shop to handle if you’re going to corner balance. BMW engineers these cars well so from what I understand the room for improvement is marginal unlike a scratch built E46 race car or something where weight spread isn’t the same as factory.

Re: roll center correction, I may eventually do the Team Schirmer rear axle correction bushings they offer but will likely hold off on addressing the front axle with the SPL control arm as that’s a step further than I want to go for my daily office taxi. Same goes for the diff lift kit. Want it, but don’t want to overdue it for a car that’s truly a daily driver.

It’s really easy to take an amazing street car from BMW and fuck it up by focusing it too much towards track performance and I’m really trying hard to avoid doing that until I’ve got more room for more cars and this is no longer the daily. That said, I am adding another 50whp up top from the Pure500 hoping it will give it the legs it needs to run up the asshole of the 911 GT3 dipshits that sometimes like to “forget” to point.

Yes that fine line to keep it streetable is so important not to cross. Personally for me I'm not a fan of the NVH of full arm/bushing swap on a true daily - more than I prefer to tolerate. Younger me probably would have been ok with it but older me is not a fan. The diff lift kit adds the noise but I find it tolerable and would be ok with it as a daily. Front monoball conversion is about as far as I would personally go for a true daily with arms/bushings. I am going to be testing out another roll center correction setup on Schnucki (the black M2) and will give feedback on all aspects of it after getting some time with it.

Those 911 guys... nothing but a bunch of a-holes

Originally Posted by jwr9152

Great write up. Will have to look into the Nitrons. Would love to meet up with you guys at Barber some time.

Fall '24 Barber meet. Need to look into getting something setup. Would be a blast to get a bunch of bmw's together out there.

[OG Shark]

Originally Posted by Swank

Awesome, would you mind sharing the offsets you use?

Just FYI - we run up to 10.5 ET13 in the front and 11 ET44 in the rear. Depending on the tire on the fronts we might throw a bit of spacer in to gain some clearance. This is with our Nitron kits.

[medphysdave]

What parts do you find make the most noise. I don't mind increased vibration, but clunking/rattling I don't like.

Wondering if the quality of the bushing or bearing makes a difference?

The BMW CSR arms use some pretty expensive spherical bearings compared to the aftermarket parts.

[MooMooM2]

I bought the kit from the classifieds. Pretty excited to have it put on before next season starts. Currently have stock suspension with tckline camber plates, was just going to go tckline coilovers but I know these are going to be next level. I was either going to go tckline or save up for some MCS and I feel like these nitrons are probably on MCS level so I am pretty excited to see the difference.

I read that nitron recommends a rebuild btw 12 and 18k miles, have you noticed this to be necessary or is this very conservative? The set I got coming has 10k miles and I thought maybe have them rebuild now before going on the car but also feel like it might just be way too soon so have decided to just install them for a couple of seasons and then do that.

[medphysdave]

Originally Posted by MooMooM2

I bought the kit from the classifieds. Pretty excited to have it put on before next season starts. Currently have stock suspension with tckline camber plates, was just going to go tckline coilovers but I know these are going to be next level. I was either going to go tckline or save up for some MCS and I feel like these nitrons are probably on MCS level so I am pretty excited to see the difference.

I read that nitron recommends a rebuild btw 12 and 18k miles, have you noticed this to be necessary or is this very conservative? The set I got coming has 10k miles and I thought maybe have them rebuild now before going on the car but also feel like it might just be way too soon so have decided to just install them for a couple of seasons and then do that.

Congratulations 🎉. Jealousy runneth over. I'm curious about the rebuild cost so I hope you get a quote and share. Even though I wasn't going to buy these I still ran through the scenarios. I decided I would have them rebuilt so I knew where I was starting from. What if one blows early, etc. Suspension work is not my favorite. I'd want to install it once and not worry about for as long as possible.