[Betaone]

After an accident , in which there seemed to be only some damage to the bodywork , it was necessary to adjust the right rear wheel alignment to bring it from 8.6 mm to 1.2 mm . Unfortunately the adjustment registers are at the end of adjustment .
Apparently the suspension kinematics did not find any damage but it is likely that some of its components bent . From your experience what could be the component that is most easily damaged.
What could be a method to understand which part to replace without changing all the kinematics ?

[Simon P.]

Without knowing exactly what was out of alignement (toe or camber are the only 2 factory adjustable parameters in the rear so I'm assuming it's one of those) it's hard to say but the toe link, #5 (the rear one, not the front) would be my first guess. It's adjuster bolt is on the outboard end of the link and bolts to the knuckle, might be a good idea to take a good look in that area also as the knuckle is aluminum and it can deform somewhat easily without any visual cues.

[Betaone]

Originally Posted by Simon P.

Without knowing exactly what was out of alignement (toe or camber are the only 2 factory adjustable parameters in the rear so I'm assuming it's one of those) it's hard to say but the toe link, #5 (the rear one, not the front) would be my first guess. It's adjuster bolt is on the outboard end of the link and bolts to the knuckle, might be a good idea to take a good look in that area also as the knuckle is aluminum and it can deform somewhat easily without any visual cues.

The Camber is OK. The toe is no longer adjustable . If it was ther rear toe link n° 5 the cost would be low ( 150 € ) . The particular n° 1 instead costs 750 €

[Simon P.]

An easy way to see if the toe link is bent is to swap the left and right side links (they are identical). If the difficulty in meeting the factory alignment settings follows the link then you'll know it's the link. If the fault stays on the originally damaged side then it's the knuckle.
My bet is on the link.

[doughboy]

It could be any number of elements including the subframe.

It only takes a very slight deformation in any part to move the wheel relative to the chassis more than the small adjustment window will deal with.

I think you need a second opinion from a chassis specialist / someone who knows what they're doing which perhaps you repair shop don't!

[Betaone]

I changed toe link . I was hoping for a marked improvement. However, something has improved. I was able to take Toe from 1.1 mm to 1.6 mm.
Any other change is too expensive and I think it is not justified at the moment.