[Poochie]

Originally Posted by Anthony1s

Poochie, lately you have become a complete pile of useless and irrelevant information that is going to harm people. A LED IS A RESISTOR! The warm check you are referring to is over voltage protection for the LED. [COLOR="DarkRed"]The taillights are not wired directly to the battery. Tail lights wouldn't even work if they were. [/COLOR]Look at the damn wiring diagram and say that again. Instead of sharing pictures you find online that you do not understand the meaning of.

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...-rear/KZX1sxlx

Like I said multiple times before, you have become a waste of time and dangerous to the users on this forum.

I literally just showed you a picture of the F22/87 taillights LEDs, wired battery directly to the vehicle's battery, with unbridled current and is fully functioning - yet you're still contradicting what I stated, even tough it's staring you in the face.

WoW..

Good luck with all that..

[Al Bundy's Dodge]

Originally Posted by Anthony1s

Poochie, lately you have become a complete pile of useless and irrelevant information that is going to harm people. A LED IS A RESISTOR! The warm check you are referring to is over voltage protection for the LED. The taillights are not wired directly to the battery. Tail lights wouldn't even work if they were. Look at the damn wiring diagram and say that again. Instead of sharing pictures you find online that you do not understand the meaning of.

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...-rear/KZX1sxlx

Like I said multiple times before, you have become a waste of time and dangerous to the users on this forum.

Would you mind explaining that diagram to those of us that are accountants, insurance salesmen, stock brokers, etc that would have no idea what that thing is saying?

[Anthony1s]

Originally Posted by Al Bundy's Dodge

Would you mind explaining that diagram to those of us that are accountants, insurance salesmen, stock brokers, etc that would have no idea what that thing is saying?

I'm really not interested. If you look back at my recent history in other threads, you'll see myself and others combating Poochie spreading misinformation and him resorting to gaslighting and taking everyone's words out of context and strawmanning them. My reaction isn't coming out of nowhere, and I'm really just done with it.

My stance is simply that disabling the check warning for the turn signals is not the answer. That it's equivalent to taking the batteries out of your smoke alarm to stop the beeping when there is a fire. It's ignoring the problem.

When you disable the check warning, you are disabling the rapid blinking as well, because the rapid blinking is part of the warning. If this is an over voltage grounding issue, like Poochie says, you will not know the ground is being overloaded, because you've disabled the check warning and rapid blinking alert for that. Without the warning, you won't know there is an issue and will leave the blinker on during overload, which can lead to an electrical fire.

The tail lights being wired to the battery or not does not affect that stance.

[samsamdar]

Originally Posted by Anthony1s

I'm really not interested. If you look back at my recent history in other threads, you'll see myself and others combating Poochie spreading misinformation and him resorting to gaslighting and taking everyone's words out of context and strawmanning them. My reaction isn't coming out of nowhere, and I'm really just done with it.

My stance is simply that disabling the check warning for the turn signals is not the answer. That it's equivalent to taking the batteries out of your smoke alarm to stop the beeping when there is a fire. It's ignoring the problem.

When you disable the check warning, you are disabling the rapid blinking as well, because the rapid blinking is part of the warning. If this is an over voltage grounding issue, like Poochie says, you will not know the ground is being overloaded, because you've disabled the check warning and rapid blinking alert for that. Without the warning, you won't know there is an issue and will leave the blinker on during overload, which can lead to an electrical fire.

The tail lights being wired to the battery or not does not affect that stance.

Facts^
Don't disable your check warning, it's there for a reason lmao

[Poochie]

My ears are ringing..

For the record, there is nothing dangerous or nefarious in turning off the bulb checks, other than not being informed if said light is out.

There are thousands of BMW owners out there, that have removed the bulb checks, whenever they upgraded from halogen to LCI LED taillights, as officially sanctioned by BMW AfterSales department.

ISTA/D retrofit measures plan has a pre-populated menu, specifically for this action.

BMW, in their official technical LED taillight retrofit documents, they actually [COLOR="DarkRed"]requires[/COLOR] all of their light bulb checks to be decoded, since it's moving from halogen to LEDs lights, without detriment to electronics or "voltage". [COLOR="DarkRed"]Hence the reason they wrote the lines of FDL coding, in the first place, easily allowing this option..[/COLOR] #Duh

Contrary to what some are deliberately ignorantly claiming, if you remove the bulb checks, the remainder of the lighting system's diagnosis still remains active, to indicate any other malfunction, other than specifically the light bulb/LED.

Removing the bulb checks, simply, you know; as it's designed to be able to be alternated, electronically disables the lighting module itself from checking for a light outage..

The end.

Here is the bulb checks disabled in a 7 Series with LED turn signals. Surprise, surprise - the car didn't spontaneously combust into flames.. .. :

Then the E92 taillight retrofit requires that the lighting module to be replaced, for the sole purpose of adding the option of disabling the halogen bulb checks, when fitted with LEDs. Clear warning that if the bulb checks are not decoded, "flickering" would occur:

[Anthony1s]

My ears are ringing..

For the record, there is nothing dangerous or nefarious in turning off the bulb checks, other than not being informed if said light is out.

wrong. you aren't only disabling the check for a bulb that is out. you are also disabling the over voltage protection warm check, which is said time and time again the issue is caused by a lack of sufficient grounding. The two situations are entirely different. A bulb out breaks the circuit which stops electricity from going through it. An overload ground is a closed circuit overloaded and overheating.

There are thousands of BMW owners out there, that have removed the bulb checks, whenever they upgraded from halogen to LCI LED taillights, as officially sanctioned by BMW AfterSales department.

completely meaningless point if the taillights installed have sufficient grounding, which the ones installed in our M2 does not.

ISTA/D retrofit measures plan has a pre-populated menu, specifically for this action.

BMW, in their official technical LED taillight retrofit documents, they actually requires all of their light bulb checks to be decoded, since it's moving from halogen to LEDs lights, without detriment to electronics or "voltage". Hence the reason they wrote the lines of FDL coding, in the first place, easily allowing this option.. #Duh

again, completely meaningless point when you are installing a taillight with sufficient grounding compared to running one which doesn't have sufficient grounding

Contrary to what some are deliberately ignorantly claiming, if you remove the bulb checks, the remainder of the lighting system's diagnosis still remains active, to indicate any other malfunction, other than specifically the light bulb/LED.


That's not an argument. Specifically the check for the bulb is the one I am arguing you shouldn't disable. It does not matter if the malfunction warnings for other bulbs are still in place, because the one that is telling of a real malfunction (the grounding over voltage) has been disabled. It's like taking the battery out of your smoke alarm but saying you're still okay because your toothbrush still warns you when it's battery is low

Removing the bulb checks, simply, you know; as it's designed to be able to be alternated, electronically disables the lighting module itself from checking for a light outage..

[b] As explained in my first statement, the bulb check does not only check for a lighting outage but an over voltage event too. And the over voltage event is the specific check that is being triggered in our cars in this situation.

The end.

Here is the bulb checks disabled in a 7 Series with LED turn signals. Surprise, surprise - the car didn't spontaneously combust into flames.. .. :

Then the E92 taillight retrofit requires that the lighting module to be replaced, for the sole purpose of adding the option of disabling the halogen bulb checks, when fitted with LEDs. Clear warning that if the bulb checks are not decoded, "flickering" would occur:

Again, you are not grasping the different. One taillight has suffecient grounding while the other does not. One check for a broken circuit and a warm check for an over volted one. this isn't comparable

[Al Bundy's Dodge]

Question:

For the non-M2s...what was causing the warming check to fail if it was not a grounding issue as is assumed to be on the M2?

Question 2:

if it is a grounding issue on the M2, Then why does the problem temporarily go away with a new assembly and take months or longer to re-present itself? Once a grounding issue, always a grounding issue, no? And to be predominantly a right side issue would indicate its grounding is different from the left?

[Anthony1s]

Originally Posted by Poochie

Again, no one is talking about the grounding, that theory was covered in my previous post..

To the current subject, you incorrect claimed and accused me of spreading misinformation; namely that removing the bulb check is bad and brings out the Boogeyman, when I just demonstrated it's actually required and commissioned by BMW.

As I mention several times before, with actually proof, and not just pulling it out of my ass, like some - yet you still going around in circles.

I'm not sure what your deal is but you should really quit while you're behind. You just keep spinning your wheels in the mud, when I was merely trying to help you, not compete for credit of the right solution.

To anyone who is not on some crusade to be willfully ignorant, decoding the turn signal bulb checks absolutely eliminates the hyper flashing, turning signals, with no other ill effects to the vehicle. I can personally attest to this.

Don't believe me? Just shut up and try it.. Jeez.

This is exactly why I don't talk to you. Stop the gaslighting. Look back at the damn conversation, I did absolutely none of that.

[Poochie]

Originally Posted by Anthony1s

This is exactly why I don't talk to you. Stop the gaslighting. Look back at the damn conversation, I did absolutely none of that.

Me? You are already doing an excellent job of making yourself look foolish, you don't need my help.

You come up with all these abstract claims and when I simple ask you where did you pull it out of, you become belligerent and incorrectly assuming I'm toying with you. I promise I'm not.

This is a public user forum, anyone can state any nonsense; there is not really a high bar for factual data.

I'm merely trying to confirm its authenticity, before I fully accept it, not challenge your sanity or win the internet. It's not personal.

Anything I state here, I've already personally researched and can be backed it up with factually data.

If you don't like what I have to say, no beef; you can always add me to your "ignore" list. I can confirm that it works pretty well.

Anyways, I'm going to leave it here and not keep perpetuating this back and forth. Its been real, I really hope your fix works out for you. ✌🏻

.

[cptobvious]

Ah, Bimmerpost... making lifelong friendships and bonds with every post...

So, I ain't got no dog in the fight, but I do have some observations:

1. Had the right turn signal malfunction right out the gates ~2 years ago
2. Brought the car into the dealership, where they replaced the whole assembly
3. Roughly 12 months later, problem came back
4. 3 months after that, rear left turn signal also decided to malfunction
5. Coded out the "indicator rear warm monitoring" via Bimmercode
6. No problems either right or left since

Now... is there some possibility that somehow the voltage is no longer being monitored correctly, and that that will spark a fire in the electrical system, which will then quickly spread to my gas tank, resulting in a massive Michael Bay-esque immolation of my vehicle, incinerating myself, my loved ones, my dog, AND most importantly, my copy of Amazing Spider-Man #252 (first appearance of the Venom Symbiote - look it up, nerds!)?

Why, yes, I suppose it is a distinct possibility.

And, should that happen, you can bet your bottom dollar that my spirit shall rise forth from Tartarus or Hades or whatever place it is that your soul gets sent to when you've led a very bad life and I shall haunt Poochie for the rest of his remaining days for having had the temerity to offer up a solution to the rear turn signal malfunction on an internet forum... Poochie, as a vengeful spirit of the underworld, I'd float over your right shoulder making snide comments in your ear the entire time you're trying to concentrate on The Bachelor. "Is Colton really going to go after Cassie? What do you think, man? OH MY GOD! Did you see that? He jumped the fence!!! Is it true love???"

In the meantime, while awaiting my certain death by fire, I'll be enjoying my M2C sans rapid blinking annoying F***ing malfunction, and I'll be enjoying not having to deal with the incompetent nincompoops at the dealership.

But, that's just me.

[Poochie]

Originally Posted by cptobvious

And, should that happen, you can bet your bottom dollar that my spirit shall rise forth from Tartarus or Hades or whatever place it is that your soul gets sent to when you've led a very bad life and I shall haunt Poochie for the rest of his remaining days for having had the temerity to offer up a solution to the rear turn signal malfunction on an internet forum... Poochie, as a vengeful spirit of the underworld, I'd float over your right shoulder making snide comments in your ear the entire time you're trying to concentrate on The Bachelor. "Is Colton really going to go after Cassie? What do you think, man? OH MY GOD! Did you see that? He jumped the fence!!! Is it true love???"

J/k it will be fine, it was the bulb check all along..

Now I remember when I did the LCI LED taillight swap on my friend's E93, my connect at the dealer had told me that the vehicle needed a new, advance footwell module (CAN light controller) that's capable of disabling the bulb checks because the prior halogen and CELIS lighting draw way more power than the new, replacement LEDs.. Which was BMW's official instructions, on that retrofit.. Which can, you guessed it; can trigger hyper-flashing turn signals, if left active.

Removing the bulb checks and LED are par for the course (Google it). There is nothing to risk, as the system is designed for such adjustments, when necessary.

In conclusion, I know I'm just some random guy on the internet, with a cartoon avatar and BMW is a major conglomeration, so why take the word of little old me but companies do make mistakes with their programming sometimes and I believe I just discovered the flaw in the Death Star. So to humble speak.

I sincerely doubt removing the bulb checks makes any other difference, than illuminating the dummy light, if it detects a failure - which it sucks at doing anyways..

However, disclaimer; it's your car, so do as you please. Just is merely just an effective but friendly suggestion..

The retrofit for the M2 LCI LED taillight requires that the bulb checks be disable:

DIY: LCI Tailights https://www.2addicts.com/forums/show....php?t=1405431