09-26-2020, 08:02 PM | #1 |
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Broken Wheel Stud
Was swapping between track wheels and street wheels when I tightened the first rear driver's side to something less than my goal and the stud snapped off in the hub. I removed all the others on that wheel to check them out and they look good.
I am curious about two things: 1) anyone else deal with this type of thing? I've been wondering how much of a wear items these are. 2) How would you recommend getting the remaining stud out of the hub? All that's left is the threaded part that goes into the hub...so it looks like drilling will be best, but then what does that look like (guidance)? Thanks in advance for your thoughts. |
09-26-2020, 08:32 PM | #2 | |
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I'm curious, what brand studs are these? Also, any indication on how and when it happened? |
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09-26-2020, 08:35 PM | #3 | ||
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09-26-2020, 08:39 PM | #4 |
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Studs are for sure a wear item. I've talked to a number of amateur/pro racing teams that I've had the opportunity to encounter and they all had a variety of recommendations for track time before replacement. My personal approach is about every 3 years, which for me is about 50 days.
Considering you found one bad stud, I would suggest you replace the entire set across all of the axles. We had a fellow instructor a few years ago at WGI replace all of the studs on one wheel after noticing a cracked stud only to loose the other front wheel due to another bad stud. He didn't end up having a good day.
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09-26-2020, 09:14 PM | #5 |
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My Motorsports Hardware studs lasted around 18 months/20k miles. Should’ve replaced them at 17 months.
Similar situation for me as it happened at the track while torquing up my wheels. Fortunately the event had contracted to have mechanical support who lent a hand. Had to drill out, then EZ-out, the one I found was broken, plus two more that broke while trying to extract them. Fortunately had my OE lug bolts in my track box, and just missed the first couple hours of the day. Had to run out for the correct size EZ-out. As convenient as studs are for wheel swaps, seeing how these all broke right at the hub face, and talking with others while sorting it out, I became convinced that the failure mode for bolts -at the bolt shoulder rather than the hub face- is much easier to deal with than a broken stud. Switched back to bolts when I got home. Probably best to consider them annual maintenance if you stick with studs. |
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09-27-2020, 09:10 AM | #6 |
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That went much easier than expected!
After I drilled the 1/16 inch hole in the remaining stud, it started to turn. I don't think I actually used the 1/4 bit - it came out with the 1/8 bit. This was with using red loctite. I'll be replacing all of them annually after this experience and seeing this page: https://www.core4motorsports.com/gal...mw-wheel-studs Or I'll be considering their press-in stud conversion. Last edited by M2guru; 09-27-2020 at 09:35 AM.. |
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09-27-2020, 10:45 AM | #7 | |
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These press in studs are interesting. If nothing else, even if they break, it’s much easier to punch one out and press in new, but if they’re actually stronger where it counts, and won’t break in the first place, great! I’m going to keep this in mind for when the wheel bearings need replacing. Thanks for sharing. |
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09-27-2020, 02:54 PM | #8 |
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Oh...and another thing...I bought this to chase the threads after the red loctite: https://www.amazon.com/ARES-Limited-...40510059&psc=1
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09-27-2020, 07:22 PM | #9 | |
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09-27-2020, 07:36 PM | #10 | ||
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09-27-2020, 09:09 PM | #11 |
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Wheel Studs
I have a set of Apex wheel studs which have become worn and have shavings which come off when removing lugs. I will be replacing them after one season of tracking. Am not impressed with the quality of them. I will be replacing them with Matt Schnell Wheel Studs.
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09-27-2020, 09:57 PM | #12 | |
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09-28-2020, 07:44 AM | #14 |
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Anyone with experience on lubricating the lug nut seat, as described here?
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09-28-2020, 09:44 AM | #15 | |
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09-28-2020, 11:53 AM | #16 | ||
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09-28-2020, 12:19 PM | #17 | |
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At a Point above 7,000 RPM.
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09-28-2020, 12:25 PM | #18 | |||
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But read through this if you haven't. Given they're a race team first, they're super helpful with sharing best practices and their learnings! https://www.core4motorsports.com/tech
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12-08-2020, 04:10 PM | #19 |
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12-08-2020, 04:18 PM | #20 |
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I also want to provide an update regarding my experience with Motorsports Hardware (https://motorsporthardware.com). I explained my situation to them and they provided me a small discount on a reorder. They stated: "We regularly track our vehicles and are yet to have a failure. Our recommended torque for the 14x1.5 or the 14x1.25 is 105ftlbs. 90ftlbs is too low for 14x1.5/1.25. I do agree though that after a failure, it's prudent to change up the whole set."
I was at fault because I wasn't following the torque of the nuts precisely (was only doing 90-95 vs. the recommended 105), but I will do 105 going forward so that I can understand how long they last. Here are the rules they provided: 1. Use proper torque. 105ftlbs in your case. 2. Do not torque when wheels are hot, torque right before your next track session. 3. Ensure your wheels and spacers are hubcentric. Overall I am happy with their customer support and I hope that following their recommendations the studs last longer when following the procedure precisely. |
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12-08-2020, 07:17 PM | #21 | |
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BMWs are categorically the only ones in endurance racing that have the broken stud problems. Go to a press fit stud if you want to move on from the nonsensical risk of a thread-in stud. One less variable...
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12-09-2020, 05:57 PM | #22 | |
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