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      10-28-2019, 10:21 PM   #1
swootdaddy
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Total noob needs help getting M2C track ready

Hi all,

so I'm new to these forums but hopefully this is the most relevant place to ask for help for my situation.

I'm signed up for a trackday event next month at Willow Springs (Big Willow). It will be my first time on that track and my first time tracking my new M2C. I've done other track driving sessions before but they've always been in rentals.

For context, I know essentially nothing about setting up, upgrading, or maintaining vehicles. The most complex task I've ever performed is an oil change, never even changed a tire. Growing up my parents had no interest in cars at all and neither did my friends, thus I never learned anything about them. I've only had the chance to start "getting into" cars over the last year and a half after I discovered sim racing and actually started to make enough money to be able to even consider driving decent cars (I'm young compared to most car/track enthusiasts). However everything I've learned is on the performance driving side of things, like I said I still basically know nothing about the mechanical side.

Anyways like I said, I'm signed up for an open trackday event next month at Big Willow, and I intend to use my new M2C for the event. The event requires a tech inspection, I'll link the tech inspection list down below. Before I go out and buy tools and start tinkering away at an expensive piece of machinery that I know nothing about I'd like to ask some questions to you fine gentleman (and ladies?).

After doing a little reading here, it seems that upgrading the brake pads, fluids, and camber plates are essentially a necessity to be able to properly drive an M2C on track.

1. My first question is if this is true?

2. Which pads and brake fluid would you guys recommend I use?

3. Are changing out the brake pads and fluids something that a total novice can learn to do relatively easily and with only basic tools? (I currently don't own any tools).

4. Which camber plates should I get?

5. Can a total noob like me realistically learn to change out the camber plates relatively easily? (Again with only basic tools which I'd need to go out and buy)

5. Any other upgrades that you guys would deem mandatory before taking my M2C to the track?


Here's the tech inspection form: http://nebula.wsimg.com/2cb02e37d45f...&alloworigin=1

Ideally I'd like to learn to be able to perform a tech inspection like this by myself, I imagine it'd teach me a lot and save me some money in the long run. But again, I know nothing about setting up and maintaining cars....

6. Would it be feasible for me to learn to do all of these inspections properly and safely within the next month? (Again, only using the bare minimum in terms of tools) Or would I be better off just taking the car into a shop and having them perform this inspection for me considering the event is less than a month away?


Driving on track is some of the most fun I've ever had in my life and I am certain that I will be pursuing this hobby for as long as I'm physically able to, but coming from a background where I know nothing about cars it has been somewhat intimidating for me to get into the community. Thank you to anyone who is willing to take the time to answer these questions or provide me with any other advice you can think of!
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      10-28-2019, 11:11 PM   #2
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I would highly recommend you don’t do anything to your car. Upgrading brake fluid is the most important, but you won’t be boiling it on your first track day IMO. The number one thing you should be focused on is learning from your instructor and improving from session to session.

I took my bone stock M2C to Sebring and had zero issues and it was an absolute blast.

Camber plates are mainly going to aid in tire wear and are not a necessity, especially your first time out. Your OEM pads will also be more than adequate for your first day out as well. If you choose to do any of those things, upgrade the brake fluid.

Here’s a video of my first day out at Sebring, car was 100% stock, just had done the 1,200 mile break in. Keep in my I did three 25-30 minute sessions, my fourth got session was cut short (punctured my tire), but brakes held up even while braking from 140MPH.

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      10-28-2019, 11:29 PM   #3
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I agree with jashton. No changes to the car are required for what you are planning to do and your experience level.

BMW run performance driving days in their own factory cars and have all sorts of beginners rag on them day in, day out. The only thing they change are the brake pads and even that's probably more to do with the max performance ABS braking exercises they do (repeatedly) rather than the time spent doing warm/hot laps.

I do question the wisdom of starting off your track day journey with such an expensive and high performance car. Remember, there's no insurance if you bin it. But it's all relative. You might be rich If you can afford to swallow that risk, you've got a great car to learn in and enjoy for a long time. But if it's been a dream you've saved long and hard for, perhaps buy something a quarter the cost and beat the shit out of it to gain experience first.

Me personally, I track both my M2 and a Renault Clio RS III. Not sure they have the latter in the USA? To be honest, the M2 is absolutely thrilling to drive but the Renault is just as much fun and I'm less worried about pushing the limits since I can buy 5 of them for the replacement cost of my M2.

Whatever you do, have a blast!
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      10-29-2019, 12:13 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Caduceus View Post
I agree with jashton. No changes to the car are required for what you are planning to do and your experience level.

BMW run performance driving days in their own factory cars and have all sorts of beginners rag on them day in, day out. The only thing they change are the brake pads and even that's probably more to do with the max performance ABS braking exercises they do (repeatedly) rather than the time spent doing warm/hot laps.

I do question the wisdom of starting off your track day journey with such an expensive and high performance car. Remember, there's no insurance if you bin it. But it's all relative. You might be rich If you can afford to swallow that risk, you've got a great car to learn in and enjoy for a long time. But if it's been a dream you've saved long and hard for, perhaps buy something a quarter the cost and beat the shit out of it to gain experience first.

Me personally, I track both my M2 and a Renault Clio RS III. Not sure they have the latter in the USA? To be honest, the M2 is absolutely thrilling to drive but the Renault is just as much fun and I'm less worried about pushing the limits since I can buy 5 of them for the replacement cost of my M2.

Whatever you do, have a blast!
Great point that I forgot to mention. Get track insurance, I’ve found Hagerty to have the best rates. I spent about $270 for two days of coverage, the price is the same for a one, two, or three day event. Even if you aren’t planning on pushing your car super hard, that doesn’t mean somebody else can’t ruin your day, or have a spill right in front of you that you can’t avoid.
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      10-29-2019, 12:32 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jashton View Post
I would highly recommend you don’t do anything to your car. Upgrading brake fluid is the most important, but you won’t be boiling it on your first track day IMO. The number one thing you should be focused on is learning from your instructor and improving from session to session.

I took my bone stock M2C to Sebring and had zero issues and it was an absolute blast.

Camber plates are mainly going to aid in tire wear and are not a necessity, especially your first time out. Your OEM pads will also be more than adequate for your first day out as well. If you choose to do any of those things, upgrade the brake fluid.

Here’s a video of my first day out at Sebring, car was 100% stock, just had done the 1,200 mile break in. Keep in my I did three 25-30 minute sessions, my fourth got session was cut short (punctured my tire), but brakes held up even while braking from 140MPH.

To be honest that's a bit surprising to hear about the brakes. I took my M2C on one canyon run (not ideal or smart, I know) about a month ago and did only maybe 20-25 minutes of hard driving with medium-hard braking and by the end of that less than 1/2 hour session the brakes were totally cooked and the brake pedal became extremely soft. It was hot that day but still under 100F. This trackday event I'm going to is going to involve up to 2.5 hours of lapping Willow Springs which is out in the desert and has the potential to be very warm.

I do appreciate the advice though, for now I'll likely just look into changing the brake fluid.
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      10-29-2019, 12:42 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Caduceus View Post
I agree with jashton. No changes to the car are required for what you are planning to do and your experience level.

BMW run performance driving days in their own factory cars and have all sorts of beginners rag on them day in, day out. The only thing they change are the brake pads and even that's probably more to do with the max performance ABS braking exercises they do (repeatedly) rather than the time spent doing warm/hot laps.

I do question the wisdom of starting off your track day journey with such an expensive and high performance car. Remember, there's no insurance if you bin it. But it's all relative. You might be rich If you can afford to swallow that risk, you've got a great car to learn in and enjoy for a long time. But if it's been a dream you've saved long and hard for, perhaps buy something a quarter the cost and beat the shit out of it to gain experience first.

Me personally, I track both my M2 and a Renault Clio RS III. Not sure they have the latter in the USA? To be honest, the M2 is absolutely thrilling to drive but the Renault is just as much fun and I'm less worried about pushing the limits since I can buy 5 of them for the replacement cost of my M2.

Whatever you do, have a blast!
I purchased this car with the intention of using it as an all-purpose track day + daily drive car. It would hurt to wreck it, but I am fortunate enough to be able to afford to take the hit.

I've literally never seen any type of Renault in Southern California where I live, I don't think they sell them here. I did get to drive a VW Scirocco on the Nordschleife last year though so yeah I agree those types of cars are definitely a lot of fun to drive.
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      10-29-2019, 12:49 AM   #7
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**I was typing the below before seeing your last two responses. Rental on Nordschleife implies your rental experiences were more than the typical 3 joy ride laps at a 7/10ths that we all probably assumed. Fluid is cheap. Won’t hurt to go ahead and have a race shop flush the stock fluid and replace with SRF or another track oriented fluid. Pads aren’t expensive to change, but can suck to live with the noise if it’s a daily too. First day, you’ll probably be learning the track rather than really pushing the car, so the street pads should be fine, but the move up to track pads may come sooner**

Good advice so far.

Regarding the inspection, call your dealer or if you have a relationship with a shop, check with them. There’s nothing on that list that will require any specialized experience or costly tools, but I’d focus on driving for now and leave the service to a professional. There’s plenty of time to pick up some tips along the way. That inspection is well under an hour, so should cost whatever your chosen shop’s minimum labor charge is. Some local shops near me have a special inspection rate negotiated by the BMWCCA chapter as a member benefit. Maybe there’s a similar deal around SD.

Down the road, pads and fluid are doable with basic tools. Is there a DIY shop in the area? They might be able to walk you through the steps.

Camber plates are probably best left to a professional. It probably isn’t something you want to learn as you go on a nice new car. There are also lots of safety considerations.

Another idea, maybe your local technical college offers a basic auto maintenance course. They probably cover the inspection form topics, and may even get into the brakes.

Last edited by bentom2; 10-29-2019 at 12:58 AM..
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      10-29-2019, 09:49 AM   #8
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Very surprised the brakes did not fade, both my friends got deposits on their discs after 1 trackday. Our formats are different though, we have open pitlanes, 2+ hours of free driving, no run groups and no point bys.

OP track pads and fluid are cheap and I would do them before your 1st track day.

It will make you more confident in your brakes and will tolerate the overbraking novices are prone to more easily. It will also ensure that you do not get deposits on your brakes which can be very annoying when using your car on the street.

Note track pads can still deposit so do cool down laps and secure the car with the trans not the handbrake when you park it.

As to learning to do it yourself, everyone can learn but it is easier if you have someone show you. I would start by learning how to do pads and see how you get on. Plenty of YT vids to teach you. The other jobs I would leave to the pros for now.
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      10-29-2019, 10:11 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swootdaddy View Post
Hi all,

so I'm new to these forums but hopefully this is the most relevant place to ask for help for my situation.

I'm signed up for a trackday event next month at Willow Springs (Big Willow). It will be my first time on that track and my first time tracking my new M2C. I've done other track driving sessions before but they've always been in rentals.

For context, I know essentially nothing about setting up, upgrading, or maintaining vehicles. The most complex task I've ever performed is an oil change, never even changed a tire. Growing up my parents had no interest in cars at all and neither did my friends, thus I never learned anything about them. I've only had the chance to start "getting into" cars over the last year and a half after I discovered sim racing and actually started to make enough money to be able to even consider driving decent cars (I'm young compared to most car/track enthusiasts). However everything I've learned is on the performance driving side of things, like I said I still basically know nothing about the mechanical side.

Anyways like I said, I'm signed up for an open trackday event next month at Big Willow, and I intend to use my new M2C for the event. The event requires a tech inspection, I'll link the tech inspection list down below. Before I go out and buy tools and start tinkering away at an expensive piece of machinery that I know nothing about I'd like to ask some questions to you fine gentleman (and ladies?).

After doing a little reading here, it seems that upgrading the brake pads, fluids, and camber plates are essentially a necessity to be able to properly drive an M2C on track.

1. My first question is if this is true?

2. Which pads and brake fluid would you guys recommend I use?

3. Are changing out the brake pads and fluids something that a total novice can learn to do relatively easily and with only basic tools? (I currently don't own any tools).

4. Which camber plates should I get?

5. Can a total noob like me realistically learn to change out the camber plates relatively easily? (Again with only basic tools which I'd need to go out and buy)

5. Any other upgrades that you guys would deem mandatory before taking my M2C to the track?


Here's the tech inspection form: http://nebula.wsimg.com/2cb02e37d45f...&alloworigin=1

Ideally I'd like to learn to be able to perform a tech inspection like this by myself, I imagine it'd teach me a lot and save me some money in the long run. But again, I know nothing about setting up and maintaining cars....

6. Would it be feasible for me to learn to do all of these inspections properly and safely within the next month? (Again, only using the bare minimum in terms of tools) Or would I be better off just taking the car into a shop and having them perform this inspection for me considering the event is less than a month away?


Driving on track is some of the most fun I've ever had in my life and I am certain that I will be pursuing this hobby for as long as I'm physically able to, but coming from a background where I know nothing about cars it has been somewhat intimidating for me to get into the community. Thank you to anyone who is willing to take the time to answer these questions or provide me with any other advice you can think of!
I would recommend changing brake fluid with Motul 600, and get a set of Pagid Track Pads. You do not need them now, but sounds like you will be tracking more often, so why not do it now. You can swap out OEM to Track Pads easily with just a hammer and a punch. It takes about an hour, and there are good videos on how to do it. You don't need Camber Plates to enjoy a day at the track. The most important thing is knowing your car and how it handles, and being consistant on the track. Seat time rules.
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      10-29-2019, 10:14 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by chief1richard View Post
You can swap out OEM to Track Pads easily with just a hammer and a punch. It takes about an hour, and there are good videos on how to do it.
I just realized he has an NA market M2C with the 2NH brakes, the pad swap on those is a little more involved than the blue brakes of the other F8X cars.
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      10-29-2019, 11:05 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Megator View Post
I just realized he has an NA market M2C with the 2NH brakes, the pad swap on those is a little more involved than the blue brakes of the other F8X cars.
Good point. Didn't realize that. In that case there will be 2 bolts on the back of the caliper that need to be removed, and slide Caliper out and away. Still very easy to do.
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      10-29-2019, 10:12 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chief1richard View Post
I would recommend changing brake fluid with Motul 600, and get a set of Pagid Track Pads.
Nice I'll look into getting those. For now I'll probably have a shop install them just so that I don't accidentally screw anything up for the track session. Thanks!
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      10-29-2019, 10:56 PM   #13
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I would recommend just getting castrol srf fluid and not have to worry about changing it too often. If it's your first time out, find a reputable shop to do your tech inspection. Some shops provide tech inspection for free as an incentive to actually get them done for the sake of safety.

Always bring a torque wrench to torque your lugs the morning before each track day when the car is cool. Safety first man, enjoy!
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      10-30-2019, 12:17 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by wanofakind01 View Post
Always bring a torque wrench to torque your lugs the morning before each track day when the car is cool. Safety first man, enjoy!
100% this, I almost lost a wheel on track after a shop didn't do the job properly...

Castrol SRF is great on paper but looses a lot of performance if you boil it (can't remember where I got that from).

RBF 600 is great, half the price of SRF, good for a whole year (you want yearly or 6 month fluid changes if you plan to track even with the long life SRF) and similar on paper performance.
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      10-30-2019, 01:07 PM   #15
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Lots of good advice here. I would recommend Castrol SRF for fluid. It’s wet and dry boiling points are nearly the same ~594F. So you don’t have to change it every year as the fluid ages and absorbs moisture.

I would not risk stock pads, but that’s just me. I use PFC08 pads and love them. People get 12 to 15 days out of them. Good long lasting pad with medium bite, which is appropriate for street tires.

Have fun and just focus on learning. Stay safe and virtuous to other drivers...And have fun.
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      11-13-2019, 06:33 PM   #16
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So I thought I'd give you all a little update.

I decided to just replace the brake pads and fluids for now. I went with the Carbotech XP10 pads in the front and rear, and replaced the fluid with Castrol SRF. I'll be taking the car to willow springs next week, a track that doesn't involve a ton of heavy braking, but I figured I'd rather be safe than sorry and upgrade the pads and fluid now. Plus the car will be easier to prep for subsequent trackdays going forward. I'm still using the stock Pilot super sport tires but from what I've read they should still hold up reasonably well on track.

The XP10 pads definitely feel overkill for street driving and they are quite noisy, so I'll be planning to just use them for track days and switch the stock pads back in in between events. In the long run though I'd like to mod/set my M2C up to primarily be a track car and I'll just get something cheap and a little more practical to daily drive. With this goal in mind does anyone have any other recommendations for modding/setup advice for this car? I'm thinking camber plates would be a good next step.

I'll update this thread again after the event and let you guys know about my experience at Big Willow.
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      11-13-2019, 09:01 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swootdaddy View Post
So I thought I'd give you all a little update.

I decided to just replace the brake pads and fluids for now. I went with the Carbotech XP10 pads in the front and rear, and replaced the fluid with Castrol SRF. I'll be taking the car to willow springs next week, a track that doesn't involve a ton of heavy braking, but I figured I'd rather be safe than sorry and upgrade the pads and fluid now. Plus the car will be easier to prep for subsequent trackdays going forward. I'm still using the stock Pilot super sport tires but from what I've read they should still hold up reasonably well on track.

The XP10 pads definitely feel overkill for street driving and they are quite noisy, so I'll be planning to just use them for track days and switch the stock pads back in in between events. In the long run though I'd like to mod/set my M2C up to primarily be a track car and I'll just get something cheap and a little more practical to daily drive. With this goal in mind does anyone have any other recommendations for modding/setup advice for this car? I'm thinking camber plates would be a good next step.

I'll update this thread again after the event and let you guys know about my experience at Big Willow.
Camber plates and tires are the only other things you'll really need for a long time. Coilovers are nice but aren't actually needed for a while. Just get seat time and better at driving at the track.
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      11-14-2019, 12:53 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swootdaddy View Post
So I thought I'd give you all a little update.

I decided to just replace the brake pads and fluids for now. I went with the Carbotech XP10 pads in the front and rear, and replaced the fluid with Castrol SRF. I'll be taking the car to willow springs next week, a track that doesn't involve a ton of heavy braking, but I figured I'd rather be safe than sorry and upgrade the pads and fluid now. Plus the car will be easier to prep for subsequent trackdays going forward. I'm still using the stock Pilot super sport tires but from what I've read they should still hold up reasonably well on track.

The XP10 pads definitely feel overkill for street driving and they are quite noisy, so I'll be planning to just use them for track days and switch the stock pads back in in between events. In the long run though I'd like to mod/set my M2C up to primarily be a track car and I'll just get something cheap and a little more practical to daily drive. With this goal in mind does anyone have any other recommendations for modding/setup advice for this car? I'm thinking camber plates would be a good next step.

I'll update this thread again after the event and let you guys know about my experience at Big Willow.
Are you going to big willow with extreme speed?
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      11-14-2019, 04:49 PM   #19
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      11-14-2019, 05:25 PM   #20
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Quote:
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Are you going to big willow with extreme speed?
No, the organizer is called Open Track Racing
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      11-15-2019, 06:09 PM   #21
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If you haven't already, look into the TrackAddict app, to memorialize your track day!
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      11-16-2019, 02:08 PM   #22
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I didn't track my M2C bone stock but I swapped out fluid for Motul 660 and put on Pagid RSL29 pads. I ran Big Willow with this combo with zero brake fade in 110 degrees this summer.

Changing front pads was a bit of a PITA because you can't just swap them out like in the M3/M4s, you have to remove two bolts that are behind the caliper (holding the caliper onto the caliper carrier) and hang the caliper while you swap pads.

Since you then have to torque the bolts to spec, you need clearance to get a torque wrench behind the wheel - meaning you can't just cheat and just jack one corner up a few inches, you need to put the fronts on jackstands, at least in my experience.

Read this: https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...kes/1VnXuUMXEx

Anyways you'll need a torque wrench, breaker bar + extension + deep sockets (stock wheels + front fender bulge = need for clearance), punch set and a mallet, a floor jack or two, flat topped jack stands with the dumb BMW jacking point adapter for each.

The rears are easy and take like 10 minutes since they don't require you to remove the calipers.

It's a bit of a pain but once you've done it once it gets easier.
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