[Hank Scorpio]

Hi everyone!

I have a 2019 M2C DCT and looking to tune the car. I don't know too much about the tech side of things or what would be required to do it, but could someone please guide me through what would be needed, in terms of parts and things to watch out for? Currently, the car is completely stock with no mods whatsoever. I'd love to have a little more power, but nothing crazy like 800whp. I was thinking something in the realm of 500-550whp. The only small caveat I have is I do not want to have a CEL come up at all. I know this is achievable, but not sure how.

I know there are crank hub issues with tuning the car, and I want to avoid that like the plague. Outside of changing the crank hub, what other changes should I do before I tune? I recall reading about changing the charge pipe, downpipes, and gaskets, but that's from the limited knowledge I have. Total noob here and any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!

[hAxel]

I highly recommend Bend Calibration using Ecutek for tuning. There is a lot of information on the forums that will answer a lot of your questions, but to address some of your questions, Since you have a 2019, depending on when it was made, you will likely need to have the DME bench unlocked. If you do go the Ecutek route, it is important to know that they need to be unlocked in a particular way. It needs to be unlocked with a bFlash. I made the mistake of having someone local with a different tool unlock my DME and it wouldn't work with Ecutek. I ended up shipping my DME to MarinTuned for the unlock.

The charge pipes are definitely a weak point, so it's probably best to go ahead and get them out of the way. If you're looking to go with Ethanol, Bend Calibration has a kit to add a fuel filter along with the ethanol sensor.

For the crank hub, I was really on the fence on how big of an issue it was and I put off getting it done. I didn't have any damage when my crank hub spun, but my weekend was ruined and I didn't get to have the work done on my schedule. It's possible you'll be fine and never run in to the issue, but until you do get a pinned hub or you move on to a different car, you'll always have it in the back of your head, so it's really your call to do it ahead of time of to put it off.

Another issue that seems to pop up, is the top mount intercooler can leak. I noticed that my IAT were up considerably and causing the car to pull timing, luckily I had already purchased a Wagner intercooler, I just hadn't installed it yet. Bend Calibration has a blog post about top mount intercoolers and it's definitely worth taking a look at (https://www.bendcalibration.com/blog...itle-two-mfb58 , https://www.bendcalibration.com/blog...ata-comparison). TLDR, be careful with what intercooler you go with, not all are "better" than stock.

Bend Calibration has another blog post for what they call the "sweet spot" for the S55, https://www.bendcalibration.com/blog...itle-one-mty4j I've been kind of working towards that, but I picked up an e46 M3 to be a track car and have been kind of prioritizing it for now so i've stopped throwing quite as much money at the M2C.

[FaRKle!]

I highly recommend Enabled's tunes. Here's a happy forum member's post about it.

[Hank Scorpio]

What are some people’s thoughts on BootMod3? I was thinking of possibly starting with the M4 GTS map.

[SEAT TIME RULES]

Originally Posted by Hank Scorpio

What are some people’s thoughts on BootMod3? I was thinking of possibly starting with the M4 GTS map.

There are a ton of owners running BM3 myself included.
If your looking for a off the shelf tune I highly recommend them.
I currently have a simple STG1 on my 2020 with OEM cats.
My previous M2 had a custom Cary Jordan BM3 tune.

I've run Ecutech on previous cars and they are great as well.
Many people have used Bend and love their work with EcuTech

You can't go wrong with either setup...

HTH,
HAZMAT

[kosti365]

Originally Posted by Hank Scorpio

What are some people’s thoughts on BootMod3? I was thinking of possibly starting with the M4 GTS map.

Following this thread, I'm in the same boat. I bought an ENET cable/USBC adapter and BM3 states my ECU is unlocked.. or at least it says the requirement is "OBD".

Just want a bit more power and maybe kill some of the revhang but I dont want to send my crankhub on vacation.

[Hank Scorpio]

Went to the vape shop and noticed a dude with an F80. Told me he’s on stage 2. Told him how I’m thinking of going into stage 1, and he highly recommended I do the crankhub fix before even going into stage 1.

He also suggested I change the TMIC, FIT, charge pipes and J-pipes. Is all this really necessary? Crank hub fox before stage 1?

[medphysdave]

Originally Posted by FaRKle!

I highly recommend Enabled's tunes. Here's a happy forum member's post about it.

+1

[FaRKle!]

Originally Posted by Hank Scorpio

Went to the vape shop and noticed a dude with an F80. Told me he’s on stage 2. Told him how I’m thinking of going into stage 1, and he highly recommended I do the crankhub fix before even going into stage 1.

He also suggested I change the TMIC, FIT, charge pipes and J-pipes. Is all this really necessary? Crank hub fox before stage 1?

Did this guy try to sell you anything? Because it sounds like he is from all the stuff he's saying you should do.

[Hank Scorpio]

Originally Posted by FaRKle!

Did this guy try to sell you anything? Because it sounds like he is from all the stuff he's saying you should do.

Nah, he sent me some links to some online shops to get the parts, but he didn’t try to sell me anything directly.

[MSH_]

Originally Posted by Hank Scorpio

.., Crank hub fox before stage 1?

Meh…not for me. I think the whole thing is overblown but I don’t know much. I’m doing a mild stage 1 tune with Enabled once warranty runs out in August on my ‘20 m2c. I bought my m2c from a Service Tech lead at a bmw dealership in FL and when I asked him about it he said in all the years he’s been there 3 cars came in with sch. All earlier yr f8x m3/m4 and all highly modded. In his opinion even if it happens he said vast majority of time even if engine fully jumps timing it won’t need engine replacement.

[mike@x-ph.com]

In my opinion, Bootmod3 is the best choice given its got the most features and user-friendly capabilities. Plus, it eliminates the need to pay a tuner for map changes.

Bootmod3 provides solid off-the-shelf maps that you can easily install at home using your phone. But if you want even more performance, we also offer Jordan Tuning OTS+ maps. These are upgraded versions of the off-the-shelf maps, to generate more power.

Finally, for the ultimate power upgrade, we offer Jordan custom maps. These are tailor-made for your specific vehicle and are designed to maximize power output.

[Hank Scorpio]

Originally Posted by MSH_

Meh…not for me. I think the whole thing is overblown but I don’t know much. I’m doing a mild stage 1 tune with Enabled once warranty runs out in August on my ‘20 m2c. I bought my m2c from a Service Tech lead at a bmw dealership in FL and when I asked him about it he said in all the years he’s been there 3 cars came in with sch. All earlier yr f8x m3/m4 and all highly modded. In his opinion even if it happens he said vast majority of time even if engine fully jumps timing it won’t need engine replacement.

It’s crazy to me how we still haven’t gotten a divinitive answer to this crank hub issue. You’d think 6 years of owners modding/tuning their cars, we’d know what to expect.

[mike@x-ph.com]

Originally Posted by Hank Scorpio

It’s crazy to me how we still haven’t gotten a divinitive answer to this crank hub issue. You’d think 6 years of owners modding/tuning their cars, we’d know what to expect.

we do have an answer, but its not black and white

The crank hub has a higher rate of failure compared to other components. While it can fail even on a stock setup, the probability of failure increases as more power is pushed.
Many customers choose to upgrade the crank hub when they upgrade their turbos, as they see this as the point at which the failure becomes a more likely event.

Considering the potential for catastrophic engine damage in the event of crank hub failure, many prefer to have the peace of mind that comes with upgrading this component as soon as possible.

Ultimately, the decision to invest in this upgrade is a personal one. I believe that upgrading it at the same time as the turbo is the most balanced timing.
But, I fully understand why some customers may choose to make this upgrade earlier to give themselves peace of mind.

[projekt-]

Originally Posted by mike@x-ph.com

we do have an answer, but its not black and white

The crank hub has a higher rate of failure compared to other components. While it can fail even on a stock setup, the probability of failure increases as more power is pushed.
Many customers choose to upgrade the crank hub when they upgrade their turbos, as they see this as the point at which the failure becomes a more likely event.

Considering the potential for catastrophic engine damage in the event of crank hub failure, many prefer to have the peace of mind that comes with upgrading this component as soon as possible.

Ultimately, the decision to invest in this upgrade is a personal one. I believe that upgrading it at the same time as the turbo is the most balanced timing.
But, I fully understand why some customers may choose to make this upgrade earlier to give themselves peace of mind.

Completely agreed with this. The S55 engine is near the point of its lifecycle where you basically know the known and common possible failures for whatever you're planning to do (stock, pushing power, etc.): Crank hub, Charge/J-Pipes, Cooling.

Just like how the S65 and S54 engines have theirs. Ultimately, its up the owner and a "peace" of mind whether you want to "bulletproof" (I still say this with a grain of salt) your platform or not.

[SirPsychoMD]

I am currently only months away from warranty expiration on my ‘21 M2C and would like information on the tuning process.

Cost?
Lead time?
End to end Process?

Based off of my basic research I think I’d like to tune upwards of 500whp/500tq. I am currently bone stock and really only plan basic mods in the near future (Dinan back box and EL mid pipe).

Enabled
FaRKle!

[Enabled]

Originally Posted by SirPsychoMD

I am currently only months away from warranty expiration on my ‘21 M2C and would like information on the tuning process.

Cost?
Lead time?
End to end Process?

Based off of my basic research I think I’d like to tune upwards of 500whp/500tq. I am currently bone stock and really only plan basic mods in the near future (Dinan back box and EL mid pipe).

Enabled
FaRKle!

Send me a PM and we can discuss, I can either unlock your current DME or create a cloned spare if desired. +- tune if needed

[SirPsychoMD]

Thank you Enabled

I tried sending a DM but I was unable to do so as my post count isn’t high enough. I’ve been off the forums for too long and needed to create a new account. Just got back into an M Car when I bought the F87 in 2021 after owning an E46 M3 from 2006-2012.

[SirPsychoMD]

FaRKle!

Thank you for the PM. I was unable to respond directly. My email is

Shaffer(underscore)matthew@rocketmail(dot)com

[tropicatango]

Bm3 is very easy to use, great product

I personally used the bm3 stage 0: oem m2 cs tune for 2 years, been on track and never ever had a single problem, no check engine, no overheating even in super hot days on track.

Recently i flashed to bm3 CS+ ( based on m4 cs tune with more top end) sone dyno i found make this tune around 465 whp and 480 wtq

It´s a very nice upgrade in performance compared to m2cs tune, it’s definitely faster.

I tried bm3 gts tune too, very good too, around the same torque as the bm3 cs+ but you have less whp, it’s more like 445-450 whp from memory

I flashed back to the bm3 CS+ and I’m very happy.
Power delivery is very nice and it’s actually possible to put the power down in low gears ( 275 Michelin pilot super sport rear)

Absolutely no check engine, 100% stock except for drop in afe air filter and charcoal filter delete.

My next step is a jordan tuned (carry Jordan) OTS+ tune, but honestly power is addictive and no matter how much you have you’ll always be used to it and itch for more….had a tuned porsche 996 turbo, it was a beast and after 3 weeks i was like Mmm, it’s ok but it could be more….

For 95% street, cs+ is more than enough to have plenty of fun without traction problem.

I also think that the cs+, being around the power of a oem m4 gts is crank hub safe… nothing is 100% safe but i have no stress about it at this level of power.

[mike@x-ph.com]

Originally Posted by tropicatango

Bm3 is very easy to use, great product

I personally used the bm3 stage 0: oem m2 cs tune for 2 years, been on track and never ever had a single problem, no check engine, no overheating even in super hot days on track.

Recently i flashed to bm3 CS+ ( based on m4 cs tune with more top end) sone dyno i found make this tune around 465 whp and 480 wtq

It´s a very nice upgrade in performance compared to m2cs tune, it’s definitely faster.

I tried bm3 gts tune too, very good too, around the same torque as the bm3 cs+ but you have less whp, it’s more like 445-450 whp from memory

I flashed back to the bm3 CS+ and I’m very happy.
Power delivery is very nice and it’s actually possible to put the power down in low gears ( 275 Michelin pilot super sport rear)

Absolutely no check engine, 100% stock except for drop in afe air filter and charcoal filter delete.

My next step is a jordan tuned (carry Jordan) OTS+ tune, but honestly power is addictive and no matter how much you have you’ll always be used to it and itch for more….had a tuned porsche 996 turbo, it was a beast and after 3 weeks i was like Mmm, it’s ok but it could be more….

For 95% street, cs+ is more than enough to have plenty of fun without traction problem.

I also think that the cs+, being around the power of a oem m4 gts is crank hub safe… nothing is 100% safe but i have no stress about it at this level of power.