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      03-11-2020, 08:53 AM   #1
Kingkow
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Ground control camber plate noise - no response after 2 emails

Hi guys,
Anyone else using the ground control camber plates for street? I am having some issues with mine and I've tried to email them twice but still no response. I think the service is pretty bad.

First, I am using KW suspension with it and it is extremely difficult to tighten the strut but because it doesn't protrude enough to grab it with a 10mm key. But also the nut provided by GC is very short and when tightening, I have no choice but to scuff the aluminium top plate. That's quite bad. The only solution is to use an impact wrench but KW recommends against it. So I've tried to ask GC but no response.

More importantly, I have a funky sound when I turn the steering wheel left to right. After I checked underneat, it's the bearing sleeves that just don't spin smoothly. It's like "toing, toing, toing" when turning the steering wheel. It doesn't glide smoothly but rather slip, catch, slip, catch. Anyone else has this issue?

I would like to post a video but I am not sure how.

Could anyone advise whether this is normal? Is that kind of sound expected when using a camber plate or is that specific to GC plates? It's quite irritating and it's made worse with the fact that they are not responding.

Thanks
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      03-11-2020, 10:28 AM   #2
Zoomzoommo
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Just got my M2C back yesterday from the shop. GC camber plates and Ohlins RT coilovers were installed. I've noticed no noise, vibration or harshness versus stock suspension. Shop owner did the setup himself, specifically mentioned he thought the GC camber plates were a quality part.
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      03-11-2020, 11:05 AM   #3
Kingkow
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Here's the video.


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      03-12-2020, 03:05 AM   #4
mcgarnigle
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I'm willing to bet that the top nut is not tight enough.

I had that problem with MPerformance Coilovers and GC camber plates (the top nut would not grab enough threads because the shock rod length was shorter than OEM and thus the camber plates were too thick for the MPC's). The MPC's are made by KW. I returned the GC plates.

You can use an impact gun on the top nut on very low torque to get the nut tighter, but you need to use pliers on the shock rod (in the area where the spring is) to stop it from spinning. The spinning rod will damage the shock, which is why they advise against it. Ideally, you can do this with hand tools if you get a thin socket, or use a grinder to grind the socket down to make it fit.

I ultimately used modified TCKline camber plates with my MPC's and they work great. One of the nuts lost a little bit of tightness about 2 months after installation and it was making a racket over bumps. After re-torquing the noise went away.
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      03-12-2020, 07:58 AM   #5
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I have GC plates and Ohlins RT shocks, had them on for about 6 months and they don't make the noise that yours do. keep at it from GC, did you buy direct or from a dealer?
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      03-12-2020, 08:49 PM   #6
Kingkow
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SimonBam View Post
I have GC plates and Ohlins RT shocks, had them on for about 6 months and they don't make the noise that yours do. keep at it from GC, did you buy direct or from a dealer?
I didn't get it directly from GC but rather a large internet dealer. Still, that's their product, they should show some customer care. I put the plates for an upgrade but right now, i don't have peace of mind that all is well.
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      03-13-2020, 01:50 PM   #7
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Your contract is with your supplier, rather than the manufacturer, so why would GC get involved with your installation issue?
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      03-14-2020, 01:49 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M Fifty View Post
Your contract is with your supplier, rather than the manufacturer, so why would GC get involved with your installation issue?
Quote:
Originally Posted by M Fifty View Post
Your contract is with your supplier, rather than the manufacturer, so why would GC get involved with your installation issue?
Very smart answer. I like it. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
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      03-15-2020, 10:29 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M Fifty View Post
Your contract is with your supplier, rather than the manufacturer, so why would GC get involved with your installation issue?
I think many vendors don't have the technical expertise to provide specific feedback on their full range of products (some do).

I don't fault him for reaching out to GC for advice on how to solve the issue since they'll have the most likely no sh*t answer.

Doesn't seem like he's at the point where he wants a refund for defective product, where obviously first stop would be the vendor.
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      03-20-2020, 04:31 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kingkow View Post
I didn't get it directly from GC but rather a large internet dealer. Still, that's their product, they should show some customer care. I put the plates for an upgrade but right now, i don't have peace of mind that all is well.
I was actually going to say that my plates came from a vendor and I had an issue with the bolts (US bolt sizes when I needed EURO/UK ones but the vendor spoke to GC and got it all sorted for me. Ask the vendor to contact GC
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      04-03-2020, 01:05 PM   #11
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Some update on the plates, it seems there wasn't enough lubrication between the yellow plastic "bearing" and now seems to be better. I'll give it some more KM Before concluding.

However during disassembly, I realised that with my KW DDC suspension, the top nut is barely grabbing 1/2 of the threads of the strut. Is that sufficient? Could that be the cause of some of the knocking sound I get?
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      07-09-2020, 04:57 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kingkow View Post
Some update on the plates, it seems there wasn't enough lubrication between the yellow plastic "bearing" and now seems to be better. I'll give it some more KM Before concluding.

However during disassembly, I realised that with my KW DDC suspension, the top nut is barely grabbing 1/2 of the threads of the strut. Is that sufficient? Could that be the cause of some of the knocking sound I get?
I have the same issue with my M2C GC Camber Plates on OEM springs and dampers - although in my case it occurs intermittently, and I suspect that it has something to do with temperature (hot day = more noise).

Did the lube do the trick?
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      07-10-2020, 10:24 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kingkow View Post

However during disassembly, I realised that with my KW DDC suspension, the top nut is barely grabbing 1/2 of the threads of the strut. Is that sufficient? Could that be the cause of some of the knocking sound I get?
I said this earlier in this thread.

It's also come up with my install and others.

Long story short, GC plates don't work safely with KW struts.


https://f87.bimmerpost.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1730136
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      07-12-2020, 08:08 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcgarnigle View Post
I said this earlier in this thread.

It's also come up with my install and others.

Long story short, GC plates don't work safely with KW struts.


https://f87.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1730136
Depending on the setup you may need long reach top nuts to capture enough thread.

Some camber plates don't use a large enough upper spherical bearing to allow a long reach/shoulder nut to be used so a standard nut is often used.
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      08-25-2020, 10:48 AM   #15
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I’ve had my GC camber plates installed (OE strut and spring) for over 6mo and have driven with them on track several times. Just recently, after the car warms up, I am getting the exact sound posted in the video above - exact same symptom.

I at first experienced symptoms associated with the nut at the top of the strut not torqued sufficiently but was able to apply enough torque using a socket made for that application.

OP - could you share exactly where you applied lubrication to alleviate the issue? I’m fairly convinced I need to do the same and after extensive research, this seems to be a very common issue for many (OE strut/spring, aftermarket, etc. doesn’t seem to be specific to one style of strut setup).
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      08-25-2020, 11:09 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SimonBam View Post
I have GC plates and Ohlins RT shocks, had them on for about 6 months and they don't make the noise that yours do. keep at it from GC, did you buy direct or from a dealer?
I am now having the same problem, I have taken it to the fitter and they advised that it’s safe but there’s not really much that can be done about the noise. He said he could take it apart and lube it but that’s a whole lot of labour cost. Comments about being temperature related seem to match, it’s been very hot here recently.
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      08-25-2020, 11:16 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kankles View Post
I think many vendors don't have the technical expertise to provide specific feedback on their full range of products (some do).

I don't fault him for reaching out to GC for advice on how to solve the issue since they'll have the most likely no sh*t answer.

Doesn't seem like he's at the point where he wants a refund for defective product, where obviously first stop would be the vendor.
You are exactly right.

Lots of vendors are just parts pushers with no direct knowledge of the products they are selling. We get numerous phone calls daily for tech support on products we didn't sell.
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      08-25-2020, 11:26 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kingkow View Post
Some update on the plates, it seems there wasn't enough lubrication between the yellow plastic "bearing" and now seems to be better. I'll give it some more KM Before concluding.

However during disassembly, I realised that with my KW DDC suspension, the top nut is barely grabbing 1/2 of the threads of the strut. Is that sufficient? Could that be the cause of some of the knocking sound I get?
Do you have a photo of the plastic bearing? If it's the same yellow and black bearing from the E46 M3 OEM top mounts, they fail often in camber plates.
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      08-25-2020, 12:52 PM   #19
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I recently installed Vorshlag plates and they provide a long reach nut for this very reason. However, the nut does prevent you from accessing the 10mm nut to hold the shaft in place (at least, I couldn't fit my 10mm socket in there, perhaps I just need a skinnier one), so my only option was to use an impact gun. They recommend short bursts of high torque. So far no issues and the shaft spin was minimal (perhaps like 1-2 total turns for the 5 bursts I did). That being said, GC could be different - how do they recommend installing it?
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      08-26-2020, 10:40 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eeyang92 View Post
I recently installed Vorshlag plates and they provide a long reach nut for this very reason. However, the nut does prevent you from accessing the 10mm nut to hold the shaft in place (at least, I couldn't fit my 10mm socket in there, perhaps I just need a skinnier one), so my only option was to use an impact gun. They recommend short bursts of high torque. So far no issues and the shaft spin was minimal (perhaps like 1-2 total turns for the 5 bursts I did). That being said, GC could be different - how do they recommend installing it?
I used a socket designed for this application (I don’t believe GC provides information on how to tighten this but the socket is designed for just this).

Though, I’m having a hard time understanding the mechanism of torquing this nut and the lack of lubrication of the bearing that is believed to be the cause for the sound. How are these two related? I must not understand fully .

Actual side of socket might differ but this is the design: https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-362739-schwaben-strut-nut-socket-18mm/?gclid=CjwKCAjwkJj6BRA-EiwA0ZVPVuPKiXgIc_3_BitiBA5NwvyMfnzIVUzdmcG65Ez6Vd aXCMXEID8GEBoClUUQAvD_BwE
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      08-26-2020, 10:44 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kingkow View Post
Some update on the plates, it seems there wasn't enough lubrication between the yellow plastic "bearing" and now seems to be better. I'll give it some more KM Before concluding.

However during disassembly, I realised that with my KW DDC suspension, the top nut is barely grabbing 1/2 of the threads of the strut. Is that sufficient? Could that be the cause of some of the knocking sound I get?
Is this the style of bearing GC is using?

https://www.hpashop.com/BMW-Thrust-B...?categoryId=-1
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      08-26-2020, 12:43 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ksalih99 View Post
I used a socket designed for this application (I don’t believe GC provides information on how to tighten this but the socket is designed for just this).

Though, I’m having a hard time understanding the mechanism of torquing this nut and the lack of lubrication of the bearing that is believed to be the cause for the sound. How are these two related? I must not understand fully .

Actual side of socket might differ but this is the design: https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-3...BoClUUQAvD_BwE
Don't quote me on this - but according to vorshlag a "loose" top nut will cause the bearing to move in directions it shouldn't (it should only spin on one axis), which can cause premature wear, and also noise.

But as you found, it could be the lack of lubrication, so these could be separate issues
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