[MagnusT]

Since it's taking some time to get hold of the connectors to make a proper bypass switch to make it easy to turn ASD on and off at any time I made a temporary cable. This one kills all speaker sounds including ASD so yes it's just a temporary thing. But I made a switch that I can reach when I'm driving making it easy to compare the difference between ASD on/off and easy to turn on everything when I play music. The switch equals pulling out the fuse (and putting the fuse back).

I used a fuse that I cut up to make a connector that replaces fuse number 159 which is the ASD module's own fuse. I soldered two cables to the cut up fuse, added a proper fuse holder and fuse on the cable and a switch at the other end of the cable.

When the switch is on the current goes from one end of the car's fuse holder through the fuse on the cable, through the switch and then back in the other end of the car's fuseholder. When the switch is turned off the circuit is open just like if the fuse was removed.

Easy peasy. But looking forward to making the proper bypass cable and switch.

[GregoryK]

Cool idea. I took sound measurement with and without the bypass harness. Really no difference in sound level as road noise fills in the lack of asd. Must be interesting to hear the difference back to back.
So....how much difference out the sound are different speeds?

[boostm3]

Originally Posted by GregoryK

Cool idea. I took sound measurement with and without the bypass harness. Really no difference in sound level as road noise fills in the lack of asd. Must be interesting to hear the difference back to back.
So....how much difference out the sound are different speeds?

If that is true, then why is it Im able to listen to the HK sound system at about half the volume that was required when ASD was active? Plus which, it simply sounds way quieter in the cabin.. ASD was intrusive; I find the road noise not to be.. And again, there's that radio volume.

To the OP: On my car, the fuse was #122 which turned off the ASD and the Radio. Different in different countries?

[MagnusT]

Originally Posted by boostm3

To the OP: On my car, the fuse was #122 which turned off the ASD and the Radio. Different in different countries?

As you can see in the general fuse chart there are a number of fuses for the sound system as a whole. If you then look at the schematics of the connections to the ASD unit itself it says fuse 159. But as you know from practice the other fuses will also kill the audio system.

[MagnusT]

Originally Posted by GregoryK

Cool idea. I took sound measurement with and without the bypass harness. Really no difference in sound level as road noise fills in the lack of asd. Must be interesting to hear the difference back to back.
So....how much difference out the sound are different speeds?

In Sport and Sport+ the difference in drone is massive on the motorway (but that is easily tested by anyone just switching to Comfort)

In Comfort I don't know yet, definitely no obvious changes, if any at all. I need to listen a bit more carefully to know if there are any.

[cookiesowns]

Originally Posted by omasou

Did you install the cable?

Ah, yes! Noticeable increase in sound quality. Hissing minimized.

[horsepower_and_hounds]

Originally Posted by cookiesowns

Ah, yes! Noticeable increase in sound quality. Hissing minimized.

So you are saying the bypass makes a positive difference over coding ASD out? I find that interesting. If it is coded off then it is in bypass mode I would think..... who knows

I coded mine off with Bimmercode and have been 100% happy and have not noticed any sound issues and yes a must do if you are running the MPE

[horsepower_and_hounds]

Hey MagnusT, there is a MPE flap open close switch right there

[MagnusT]

Originally Posted by m2ruder

Hey MagnusT, there is a MPE flap open close switch right there

Just missing the MPE

[horsepower_and_hounds]

Originally Posted by MagnusT

Just missing the MPE

Oh you don't have one ..... I love mine but I am reading that I am going to hate it if I install a DP which I plan on since I have a time now

[MagnusT]

In my opinion the stock M2 sounds good from the outside but tame on the inside. To get it sound good inside it seems you must make it obnoxious on the outside hahaha. I have a friend who has downpipe plus MPE and his car is head turning two blocks away if driven, not cruised. So much it's actually outside my comfort zone to drive in town with his setup. But I bet his sounds fantastic inside the car hehehe.

[Spa2k]

Fuse 122 is 30 amps, so pulling it could kill power to the whole ASD system. (Is Fuse 123, at 40 amps, power for the whole HK system?) Maybe Fuse 159, at 5 amps, is only a control fuse for the ASD, which would leave the HK functional because you haven’t pulled its 5-amp control fuse. Just a guess, but it would be interesting to see if both of you would pull the “other” (just 122 vs. just 159) fuse, to see what happens. I can’t imagine that BMW would use totally different wiring setups for the basic functions of the car - instead just making changes for special laws in certain countries like DRLs for the U.S. OTOH, when I was at the assembly plant watching my C6 be built, I was told that there were more than 140 wiring harnesses available for the car that year.

[ZPrime]

This has been discussed at some length over in the regular 2er section... their consensus is that the ASD module also does some amount of sound amplification & EQ to the signal. So when you bypass the ASD entirely, you are actually altering the sound system from BMW's design. If you want the benefits of their EQ / time delay work, you're better off defeating the "engine sound" in software than completely bypassing the unit.

[MagnusT]

Pulling only 159 kills all sounds. Pulling only 122 kills all sounds too obviously.

[Spa2k]

I just found a mini circuit breaker that takes up the same space as the standard fuse, with a tiny reset button on the top. It stays in the open position until you push the reset button. Techs use them to diagnose circuit faults. It might be perfect for this use - just plug it in and no ASD, unless you push the button. This would work for me, because I think that once I turn off the ASD, it's staying off - plus you could use it in the end of a long control wire instead of a switch. The question is, do you disable the 5-amp ASD control circuit or the 30-amp ASD power circuit - or does it matter?

http://www.littelfuse.com/~/media/au...t_breakers.pdf

[MagnusT]

Originally Posted by Spa2k

I just found a mini circuit breaker that takes up the same space as the standard fuse, with a tiny reset button on the top. It stays in the open position until you push the reset button. Techs use them to diagnose circuit faults. It might be perfect for this use - just plug it in and no ASD, unless you push the button. This would work for me, because I think that once I turn off the ASD, it's staying off - plus you could use it in the end of a long control wire instead of a switch. The question is, do you disable the 5-amp ASD control circuit or the 30-amp ASD power circuit - or does it matter?

http://www.littelfuse.com/~/media/au...t_breakers.pdf

You will also loose radio/stereo and handsfree mobile bluetooth sound and PDC sounds if you pull either fuse. Just so you don't miss that drawback :-)


The fuses you link to, how would you make it break the circuit? It only does that when there's an overload...

[Spa2k]

Didn't know that - I thought with several 5-amp fuses for sound, one might be exclusive to the ASD. Some of the circuit breaker fuses are open (no power flowing) until you hit the button to complete the circuit and get power flowing.

[cookiesowns]

Originally Posted by m2ruder

So you are saying the bypass makes a positive difference over coding ASD out? I find that interesting. If it is coded off then it is in bypass mode I would think..... who knows

I coded mine off with Bimmercode and have been 100% happy and have not noticed any sound issues and yes a must do if you are running the MPE

Correct. I do have the PE, so my stereo is the US HiFi, not HK.

[MagnusT]

I don't think anyone has tried to see what happens if you pull any of the other fuses listed as fuses for the stereo, I've only tried 122 and 159. There are seven more fused listed for the stereo! But I sadly doubt any of them will do what I want, just disable ASD.

Oh, on the subject of the circuit breaker fuses you found, if you push the circuit breaker switch to turn ASD back on, how would you turn ASD back to off again after that?

[Spa2k]

Originally Posted by MagnusT

Oh, on the subject of the circuit breaker fuses you found, if you push the circuit breaker switch to turn ASD back on, how would you turn ASD back to off again after that?

My understanding from the tech I talked to is that it resets with no load (when you remove it). Others may have a button reset. I just need for the snow and cold to stop so I can get the car out of storage and start playing with it.

[18EM2]

Got it installed. So much better. With ASD I would have to drive in comfort or with the windows down. Not ideal especially in winter. Now it drives and sounds like a BMW with a nice exhaust. When you install the harness you see why there’s so much tire roar on rough pavement. Anyone found a good way to attenuate the noise?

[DanG]

Originally Posted by 18EM2

Got it installed. So much better. With ASD I would have to drive in comfort or with the windows down. Not ideal especially in winter. Now it drives and sounds like a BMW with a nice exhaust. When you install the harness you see why there’s so much tire roar on rough pavement. Anyone found a good way to attenuate the noise?

You can read the last few pages of this thread. http://f87.bimmerpost.com/forums/sho...adening&page=6

It finally gets to the subject of adding insulation back into the car to get rid of road noise.