01-04-2019, 11:28 PM | #244 | |
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01-27-2019, 05:09 PM | #245 |
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Just finished installing Wagner catted downpipe, the fit and finish of this dp is remarkable, I have had zero issue with removing and fitting back the clamps on either side of the dp, so all in all this is an easy job when using quickjack
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01-27-2019, 09:57 PM | #246 |
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I have a lift and my car is the m235i but it's virtually the same installation job. It was super easy. Removing the seized v-bands was probably the trickiest part. The rest was super easy. Actually the tricky part was undoing the two clamps that keep the o2 sensor cables in place. Getting the cables out of them was tricky and getting them back in was trickier since you have to do it by feel. (and don't finish without getting them clipped in there because those keep your cables from being able to move and touch the exhaust and melt.)
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GeilesAuto15.00 |
06-24-2021, 10:06 PM | #247 |
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People who install fab speed sport cat, you guys reused the old v band clamps with bolts came with oem? Bought mine used without hardware.
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06-29-2021, 03:04 PM | #248 | |
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06-29-2021, 04:34 PM | #249 |
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06-29-2021, 08:29 PM | #250 |
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He was having some issues after install guess he used the old ones.
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07-10-2021, 08:40 PM | #251 |
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Can one use a heat gun? I don’t have a torch.
Do we need the claws foot for the removal of the O2 sensors? Socket or an open wrench won’t do this? What size should I get fir this or are they all the same size? What makes re-fitting the old v-bands tougher? Spraying boot loosening fluid like WD40 doesn’t help? Finally. Which sound is the turbo spooling sound? At around rpm is that evident? Thanks. |
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07-12-2021, 12:57 PM | #252 |
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I didn't need a heat gun or torch to get the O2 off. I bought a O2 socket off Amazon and had 0 issues.
If you're having issues with the O2 and bolts you could try spraying with a penetrating fluid like PB blaster and letting it sit for a few hours. The best way to relate the turbo spool sound is the whirling/whistling sound you hear when large diesel trucks take off. I hear mine starting around 1.5-2K RPM then the exhaust drowns out the sound. |
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07-29-2021, 04:46 AM | #255 |
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Finally got my AA DP. Looks good. I almost don't want to have it installed under where no one would see.
No CEL guarantee. I didn't know there are 2 brackets that I need to mount this unto. I expected (no basis) the holes on the CAT to be bigger though. Will install this weekend.
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Last edited by vrooooom; 07-29-2021 at 05:05 AM.. |
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07-29-2021, 06:34 AM | #256 |
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The hardest part of this seems to be the removal of the TOP v-clamp. Is this an easier access from the wheel-well at all? I seem to remember some's video ....but I may just be confused.
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2018 BMW M2 LCI BM3 Stage 2 + MPE + FTP charge pipe + MST V2 Inlet + TurboSmart DV + CSF FMIC + AA Hi-flow Downpipe + Turner Rear Shifter Bushing + Wiechers Strut Brace + Bilstein B16 PSS10 + Apex VS-5RS
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07-29-2021, 08:41 AM | #257 | |
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Having a lift speeds things up considerably.
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07-31-2021, 02:33 AM | #258 |
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If one somehow interchanged the 2 sensors, what would happen? CEL?
How do you guys know there’s no leak? I’ve reused all gaskets coz the local dealers don’t even have them in stocks. The hardest part was putting the top clamp while making sure all the brackets are also in the right place. Took me 3 hrs with someone helping to hand me tools on 2 jack stands in front. Last edited by vrooooom; 07-31-2021 at 07:39 AM.. |
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10-14-2021, 10:12 AM | #259 | |
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12-22-2022, 05:27 PM | #262 | |
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Hey All-
Just wanted to update my past post. I had a major bad time putting in the Fabspeed catted dp. 4-5 years later I reverted to OEM, and it was easy peasy. It did take me a full 2-3 hours but it was basically doing it again for the first time. I went slow, and took a lot of breaks because I was basically doing a crunch the whole time. And I got up a few times to watch a youtube that showed how the original brackets were set up. Was I that much better 4 years later? No, but the "trick" to this job is basically getting it loosely bolted into place with the brackets and connection to the exhaust. Then it's just sitting in space in roughly the right place and it makes getting the top collar aligned soooo much easier. Less than 3 hours including the quickjack setup, belly pan, and actually an oil change since I was in the neighborhood. And the good news for me is I have a catted downpipe and a tune to list for sale. And a 2017 6MT.... Quote:
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12-26-2023, 05:40 PM | #263 |
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I recently took a catless downpipe off and put the original catted downpipe back in. (Former owner installed catless, and it was too obnoxious for me.) Learned a lot of useful tips in this thread. Definitely fiddly, but taking my time it was a fairly straight forward 3 hour job.
The top clamp is definitely the tricky part of this job. Old one came out easy, but it was a bit of work to get the new clamp lined up correctly. Having the stock cat mounting brackets helped a lot. Kept the pipe in the correct place while trying to get the clamp aligned. The catless pipe I pulled out didn't have any supports. I imagine it would be a lot harder to align the clamp while trying to hold the pipe in place. Getting the top clamp tight is another issue. I suspect using a new clamp makes this harder, as I think the C profile expands a bit as it's tightened around the turbo and pipe lips. Reusing the clamp would make that easier. I also thought about getting a longer bolt to try pulling the ends together. You can't do it with your bare hand, and it's hard to get pliers in there to squeeze the ends together. But, if you had an assortment of longer bolts you could reach between the ends, and tighten with a wrench. Use the bolt that came with the clamp once you get the ends close enough. For temp tightening, any cheap bolt with the right pitch work. Almost went to the hardware store to find some longer bolts. But I tried getting my biggest channel-lock pliers in there one more time, and a few mad-at-it squeezes finally got the ends together enough to get the bolt in. Easy to tighten from there, if you have fine tooth ratchet. I did use a new bottom clamp also. Worth it to me just to not have to pry off the old copper seal, de-mangle it, and re-fit it onto the new pipe. New clamp pops right on, a few turns to set the seal, and then the exhaust pops right in. Wrench it down, and it's done. Last edited by ggggbmw; 12-26-2023 at 05:49 PM.. |
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