[F87source]

Originally Posted by 3t3p

Thanks for the screenshot photos btw I missed them somehow.

There's no way to doo stage 2+ (with the hpfp upgrade) but select the 91 (95RON) map so that you can then use 93(98RON) fuel for safety buffer?

Or is it deemed not worthwhile to develop such a map for 91/95 by protuningfreaks?

Wonder to get BM3 this black friday sale, want to try some features that just aren't coming to MHD but worried about BM3 stressing the HPFP more and that I might need to upgrade it.

Thanks.

No, at some point a tune will be too agressive for 91 octane that's just the reality with pushing for more power on such a small turbo and requring alot of boost to do so. In this case stage 2+ is the limit where 91 octane will no longer be sufficent for the power demands, and if they did make it 91 octane compatible it would likely make less power than the stage 2 93 tune, so it makes no sense to have.


It is 15% off if I am not mistaken so it is a pretty good time to buy it, as this is likely the best sale of the year. I don't think BM3 stresses the HPFP more than MHD would, but regardless the n55 HPFP is pretty close to maxed out when tuned eithe way - so an HPFP upgrade would be wise regardless of tune.

[edgar00]

hi there , i purchased a N55 M2 , 6 speed manual ;
i flashed the stg2 + multimap tune ,
running E50 with 200 cell DP , forge I/C , all pipe and a stg 2 dorch HPFP ,

and iam pretty disappointed at the overall performance , the car feel slow to me , there not much at all bottom torque , feel very average .
Is it normal for this setup or what should i check ?
I tough it would hit harder in low rpm ,breaking traction etc ....

PS :I have also a 21 TTRS on stg1 flex fuel aswell and its a monster compared to the M2

[F87source]

Originally Posted by edgar00

hi there , i purchased a N55 M2 , 6 speed manual ;
i flashed the stg2 + multimap tune ,
running E50 with 200 cell DP , forge I/C , all pipe and a stg 2 dorch HPFP ,

and iam pretty disappointed at the overall performance , the car feel slow to me , there not much at all bottom torque , feel very average .
Is it normal for this setup or what should i check ?
I tough it would hit harder in low rpm ,breaking traction etc ....

PS :I have also a 21 TTRS on stg1 flex fuel aswell and its a monster compared to the M2

Take some data logs and send them to the bm3 team for review. It shouldn't feel slower than stock, something is probably wrong.

[edgar00]

Originally Posted by F87source

Take some data logs and send them to the bm3 team for review. It shouldn't feel slower than stock, something is probably wrong.

yeah good idea, i 'll record some log , its not slower than stock just a little faster , and for me stock was already feeling pretty slow , maybe my car is a lemon , but i dont get that kick i would expected at stg2+ with E50

[F87source]

Originally Posted by edgar00

yeah good idea, i 'll record some log , its not slower than stock just a little faster , and for me stock was already feeling pretty slow , maybe my car is a lemon , but i dont get that kick i would expected at stg2+ with E50

You could have a boost leak. What mods do you have?

But we wont know for sure untill you have some logs.

[edgar00]

i have the charge pipe , boost pipe , intake pipe + dinan intake , brand new injectors ,Forge intercooler , Dorch stg2 HPFP , 200 cel sport cat .
with BM3 flexfuel kit and stg2+ file .

[F87source]

Originally Posted by edgar00

i have the charge pipe , boost pipe , intake pipe + dinan intake , brand new injectors ,Forge intercooler , Dorch stg2 HPFP , 200 cel sport cat .
with BM3 flexfuel kit and stg2+ file .

Yeah I'm not sure what could be wrong without logs. Did you properly code the injectors?

[edgar00]

apparently the N55 M2 injector dont need coding , the one i bought got exactly same numbers as the OEM ones .

[F87source]

Originally Posted by edgar00

apparently the N55 M2 injector dont need coding , the one i bought got exactly same numbers as the OEM ones .

Yeah I've heard that's the case as well, if it's the same numbers you're ok.

I was also worried you got upgraded injectors and didn't tune for them, but in that case I doubt you'd be able to drive it properly.

[Bianchi]

Thanks F87source for the amazing write up and follow up!

I wonder if I could pick the hive mind here.

I picked up a 2017 manual M2 N55 with about 8,000 miles on it a few months ago. I'm the 3rd owner (!!!). One or both of the previous owners obviously did some mods to the car, but it was close to stock parts when I got it (with some Bimmercode changes that were quite welcome and some cosmetic stuff).

I took it to a local dyno tuner but one who specializes in JDM so I couldn't get much diagnostic work done there.

The dyno run showed great torque (385 lb/ft), but was really down on power (340whp). I've also noticed that the car runs rich to me. I'm smelling lots of unburnt gas cold and warm.

My thought and also the JDM tuner's thought was one of the previous owners put some bolt-ons on the car, slapped a tune on it, then took the bolt-ons off when they sold the car leaving the tune in place. I decided to buy the BM3 setup after reading this writeup figuring, at a minimum, the stage 1 or one of the basic 91 octane tunes (only 92 octane here in WA and incredibly overpriced, low-quality stuff at that) would help get me back closer to stock numbers and improve the overall platform.

I'm going to get some bolt-ons shortly (intercooler, charge, and boost pipes, high-flow down pipe) and go stage 2, but this should hold me over until then I'm thinking.

I'm hoping someone might have some thoughts on this and maybe could validate my assumptions while I wait for the dongle to arrive from the other side of the continent. Also, any tips of what I should be looking for as well.

Thanks for the detailed replies thus far and the pictures of the various maps (very helpful!!)

[F87source]

Originally Posted by Bianchi

Thanks F87source for the amazing write up and follow up!

I wonder if I could pick the hive mind here.

I picked up a 2017 manual M2 N55 with about 8,000 miles on it a few months ago. I'm the 3rd owner (!!!). One or both of the previous owners obviously did some mods to the car, but it was close to stock parts when I got it (with some Bimmercode changes that were quite welcome and some cosmetic stuff).

I took it to a local dyno tuner but one who specializes in JDM so I couldn't get much diagnostic work done there.

The dyno run showed great torque (385 lb/ft), but was really down on power (340whp). I've also noticed that the car runs rich to me. I'm smelling lots of unburnt gas cold and warm.

My thought and also the JDM tuner's thought was one of the previous owners put some bolt-ons on the car, slapped a tune on it, then took the bolt-ons off when they sold the car leaving the tune in place. I decided to buy the BM3 setup after reading this writeup figuring, at a minimum, the stage 1 or one of the basic 91 octane tunes (only 92 octane here in WA and incredibly overpriced, low-quality stuff at that) would help get me back closer to stock numbers and improve the overall platform.

I'm going to get some bolt-ons shortly (intercooler, charge, and boost pipes, high-flow down pipe) and go stage 2, but this should hold me over until then I'm thinking.

I'm hoping someone might have some thoughts on this and maybe could validate my assumptions while I wait for the dongle to arrive from the other side of the continent. Also, any tips of what I should be looking for as well.

Thanks for the detailed replies thus far and the pictures of the various maps (very helpful!!)

Thanks glad you liked it!

Do you have any idea what mods are on it by visual inspection? Are you able to read the codes off of the car?

I believe you can flash a stock m2 map using bm3, bm3 should be able to read your vin, detect you have an m2, and then based on the software running on your car give you a copy of the stock map which you can flash to get back to stock which I recommend you do. I don't recommend stage 1 because it actually produces less power than stock according to some dynos and was meant more for non m2 n55's. Also since you don't know what has been done to the car I'd flash the stock map first. Then get some data logs and send it to bm3 for review.


In the mean time I guess you could check under the hood and look for mods. First look at the intake, then check the filter if the intake is stock, then check the charge pipe - check if it is plastic or not, then check if the tmap sensor is stock - just incase it is upgraded then you wont want to flash to stock without checking the tuning option (to do this read the part number off of the sensor), the stick your phone down the passenger side of the engine bay to take a photo of the down pipe to see if it is stock or upgraded (unburnt fuel smell could mean you have a catless downpipe or something is going wrong but without actually being there I won't know). Then look at what turbo inlet you have, and take a look at the intercooler through the grille. You can send us photos so we can help you verify parts.

That's all I can think of for now, but itll give you an idea of what parts are on the car. Don't push the car hard if you decide to drive it, especially if its not running right.

[Bianchi]

Originally Posted by F87source

Thanks glad you liked it!

Do you have any idea what mods are on it by visual inspection? Are you able to read the codes off of the car?

I believe you can flash a stock m2 map using bm3, bm3 should be able to read your vin, detect you have an m2, and then based on the software running on your car give you a copy of the stock map which you can flash to get back to stock which I recommend you do. I don't recommend stage 1 because it actually produces less power than stock according to some dynos and was meant more for non m2 n55's. Also since you don't know what has been done to the car I'd flash the stock map first. Then get some data logs and send it to bm3 for review.


In the mean time I guess you could check under the hood and look for mods. First look at the intake, then check the filter if the intake is stock, then check the charge pipe - check if it is plastic or not, then check if the tmap sensor is stock - just incase it is upgraded then you wont want to flash to stock without checking the tuning option (to do this read the part number off of the sensor), the stick your phone down the passenger side of the engine bay to take a photo of the down pipe to see if it is stock or upgraded (unburnt fuel smell could mean you have a catless downpipe or something is going wrong but without actually being there I won't know). Then look at what turbo inlet you have, and take a look at the intercooler through the grille. You can send us photos so we can help you verify parts.

That's all I can think of for now, but itll give you an idea of what parts are on the car. Don't push the car hard if you decide to drive it, especially if its not running right.

Aw, man, sorry I might have been unclear.
The bolt-ons were all removed. It's bone stock (I put a CTS CAI on it). It drives great but it runs rich (definitely better than running lean), but it's down on power. We're thinking they tuned the car for the bolt-ons that were there, but with the bolt-ons all taken off, the tune is definitely not right for the car.
I'll definitely data log as soon as I can.
Thanks again!

[F87source]

Originally Posted by Bianchi

Aw, man, sorry I might have been unclear.
The bolt-ons were all removed. It's bone stock (I put a CTS CAI on it). It drives great but it runs rich (definitely better than running lean), but it's down on power. We're thinking they tuned the car for the bolt-ons that were there, but with the bolt-ons all taken off, the tune is definitely not right for the car.
I'll definitely data log as soon as I can.
Thanks again!

I see my mistake, if the car was tuned for the mods then you really shouldn't be pushing it without said mods there. Just wait for bm3, and then flash it back to stock and then log it.

[Bianchi]

Originally Posted by F87source

I see my mistake, if the car was tuned for the mods then you really shouldn't be pushing it without said mods there. Just wait for bm3, and then flash it back to stock and then log it.

That's purely my guess. I haven't really been pushing it (occasional spirited driving at most). I did actually get a cable for BM3 tonight and tried both the stock ecu map and a stage 1 map (I hear your warning about stage 1 putting out less power, but figured it's free, so I'd give it a shot).

The richness is gone. Instantly. Before the BM3 tunes, when I'd start my car or park my car in my garage, it would smell like I dumped a cup of fresh gasoline in the garage. It would permeate into my living room and kitchen too. After the tunes - nothing!

Both tunes felt great. I actually do prefer the stage 1 tune. It may make less peak horsepower, but it sure didn't feel like it. I may take it back to the dyno and have him do a couple pulls on each map.

One issue I am having (I've put in a support request already) is none of the customization options for the tunes are taking (burble, rev matching, exhaust flap status, anti-lag, etc.). I'll report back on any resolution. If anyone has tips, I'm all ears.

[F87source]

Originally Posted by Bianchi

That's purely my guess. I haven't really been pushing it (occasional spirited driving at most). I did actually get a cable for BM3 tonight and tried both the stock ecu map and a stage 1 map (I hear your warning about stage 1 putting out less power, but figured it's free, so I'd give it a shot).

The richness is gone. Instantly. Before the BM3 tunes, when I'd start my car or park my car in my garage, it would smell like I dumped a cup of fresh gasoline in the garage. It would permeate into my living room and kitchen too. After the tunes - nothing!

Both tunes felt great. I actually do prefer the stage 1 tune. It may make less peak horsepower, but it sure didn't feel like it. I may take it back to the dyno and have him do a couple pulls on each map.

One issue I am having (I've put in a support request already) is none of the customization options for the tunes are taking (burble, rev matching, exhaust flap status, anti-lag, etc.). I'll report back on any resolution. If anyone has tips, I'm all ears.

Yeah it's better to be safe than sorry.

Wait, don't you have to use a map credit to get the stage 1 map, I don't think it is free? You probably should have gotten stage 2 instead.

Glad to hear the tune solved it! Make sure you get some data logs done to ensure the tune is playing well with your car. You do not want there to be issues and not know about it.


Maybe Bm3 changed the stage 1 tune, because awhile back iirc the dyno plots showed it made less power than stock. But if you do take it to the dyno please do share the results, I am very curious to see the difference.


What do you mean none of the changes are taking? Did you flash the custom rom to the car (multi-map stage 1)? You need to do that before you can have anti-lag etc, flashing stage 1 ots isn't the correct one.

[TheHaze]

Originally Posted by Bianchi

One issue I am having (I've put in a support request already) is none of the customization options for the tunes are taking (burble, rev matching, exhaust flap status, anti-lag, etc.). I'll report back on any resolution. If anyone has tips, I'm all ears.

Are you reflashing the map each time you change any parameters in the map config? That could be what's going on.

[F87source]

Originally Posted by TheHaze

Are you reflashing the map each time you change any parameters in the map config? That could be what's going on.

+1

Could be that too. You need to flash the map to the car Everytime a change is made, the phone doesn't have a live connection to the car when tuning changes are concerned.

[3t3p]

Can we remove 'factory' from this title I'm sorry but it really irks me! It's misleading.

[F87source]

Originally Posted by 3t3p

Can we remove 'factory' from this title I'm sorry but it really irks me! It's misleading.

Oh yeah, I see how that would be the case, I was trying to convey it flashes the factory DME but I see how that would be misleading. Ok I will fix it.

[Bianchi]

Answers to questions -
I chose not to go to stage 2 because I don't have any of the bolt ons yet to get me to stage 2 safely. I will be installing them over the coming months, but at that time, I'll happily pay the extra $50 to get the correct tunes in place.

I am re-flashing with each change. At this point, I've flashed the dang car at least 20 times. I've also found some sources on this forum as well as reddit that suggest that bimmercode settings could also mess with it (which, the previous owner definitely coded quite a few things with bimmercode). I've tried disabling those to no avail.

It may be the case that the stage 1 map is lower on power; however, I feel fairly certain that it's higher on power than what I was making and I've switched between the stock tune (the one provided by BM3) and the stage 1 tune and the stage 1 feels better to me. I'm not looking for all out power at the moment. I will be tracking the car in the summer, but for now, it's my daily and the smoothness from the stage 1 tune is far superior to the stock tune.

I did not do the multi-map - I just did the plain stage 1. However, I'm quite happy to try that one and see if it helps. I didn't see anything in the documentation (which, documentation from BM3 is terrible, BTW) that suggests I needed to do that, but I'll give it a go.

I do have both a hard wired (with PC) and wifi (with phone/tablet) option for the coding and have used both.

[3t3p]

Originally Posted by F87source

Oh yeah, I see how that would be the case, I was trying to convey it flashes the factory DME but I see how that would be misleading. Ok I will fix it.

Thanks looks good

[F87source]

Originally Posted by Bianchi

Answers to questions -
I chose not to go to stage 2 because I don't have any of the bolt ons yet to get me to stage 2 safely. I will be installing them over the coming months, but at that time, I'll happily pay the extra $50 to get the correct tunes in place.

I am re-flashing with each change. At this point, I've flashed the dang car at least 20 times. I've also found some sources on this forum as well as reddit that suggest that bimmercode settings could also mess with it (which, the previous owner definitely coded quite a few things with bimmercode). I've tried disabling those to no avail.

It may be the case that the stage 1 map is lower on power; however, I feel fairly certain that it's higher on power than what I was making and I've switched between the stock tune (the one provided by BM3) and the stage 1 tune and the stage 1 feels better to me. I'm not looking for all out power at the moment. I will be tracking the car in the summer, but for now, it's my daily and the smoothness from the stage 1 tune is far superior to the stock tune.

I did not do the multi-map - I just did the plain stage 1. However, I'm quite happy to try that one and see if it helps. I didn't see anything in the documentation (which, documentation from BM3 is terrible, BTW) that suggests I needed to do that, but I'll give it a go.

I do have both a hard wired (with PC) and wifi (with phone/tablet) option for the coding and have used both.

I'm not sure what's going on, you should probably wait for bm3 to reply and help you with that. Sorry I couldn't help.