[///MPhatic]

Originally Posted by M Fifty

On the rear.

On the M2 you have to be doing something drastic before it has a major effect on front toe...

Lifetime alignment: $149
Peace of mind that I'm not wearing out my $1300 tires prematurely: Priceless

I don't doubt what you say, but I've seen things...

So I always get an alignment after the final adjustment, even if it was moved just a bit.

Originally Posted by omasou

Is this correct. Before they pulled the TIS I believe it specified 612/615.

620/620 from the factory. Measured it myself. But actually, the passenger rear was 625. It's always higher...

[omasou]

A couple more data points. Looks like some may have flipped front and rear numbers? Measurement probably include some user variability

M2C 625 mm / 614 mm - shemeld_135
M2 623 mm / 616 mm VisualEcho
M2 620 mm / 621 mm. _RS4_

[No_curebimmer]

Originally Posted by omasou

Is this correct. Before they pulled the TIS I believe it specified 612/615.

As a side note. My M2C was delivered with the MP Coilovers installed the height set at 595 mm/610 mm. They have since settled significantly and I plan to have them raised above the 595 mm/610 mm b/c it's too low for my street and while I'm at it, I'll suck it up and have the car corner balanced.

No_curebimmer the attached PDF is the BMW MP Coilover installation instructions. Your height settings are spot on, see section 3.

Note: seems the dealer set the rears at 610mm instead of the 600mm specified. Not sure why maybe there was an update?

The image attachment is the alignment settings. Forget where I got this from so take it w/a grain of salt.

The pictures are of my car are w/the MPC installed at delivery and 9 miles on the car.

Thank you all for providing your thoughts and advice!

omasou: your heights looks spot bang on, thanks for sharing!

Now, seems our height specs are similar (see my post above where I just measured mine), however your front doesn't have the low rider/tuck in look like mine. What gives??

As mentioned prior, I find the ride greatly improved w/ the B16s - so if it wasn't for the tucked in look in the front , I would have been content and called it a day.

[No_curebimmer]

Attached pictures after a few spirited driving days, as well as the alignment figures.

[omasou]

For reference. Today wtih 12,000 miles, brand new tires and some settling.

Updated picture to removing some of the shadows.

HTH.

[No_curebimmer]

More info:

1. according to Bilstein, the lowering range is 30-50 mm all around.

2. Seems like stock is 620mm, that would place the F around 590, which where I'm pretty much at

3. the installer mentioned that the front is the highest it can go

So, does this boil down to this is the min height drop the B16s can do (tucked in look)? If so (especially given point 3), how did other M2C owners w/ B16 achieve higher stance (did a 25 mm drop, and looks much better IMO). See here:

https://www.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...php?p=24525012

[No_curebimmer]

Originally Posted by omasou

For reference. Today wtih 12,000 miles, brand new tires and some settling.

Shadow in the wheel well make it hard to see the spacing.

HTH.

Ok…I must be going kuku. Am I imagining a problem that ain't there? Check me guys: does anyone else see a low rider look in the front? Am I nitpicking for nothing?

@omasu car doesn't have the tucked in tyre look, yet his car has a lower front height…

Your front height, especially after 12k mi, is set and won't go any lower. Mine is currently at 23.5" (angle holding phone and tape measure might make it look off), after not even a few hundred miles (stock PSS tyres and 788s rims), so it will go lower by a few good mm..

Measurements pictures attached.

[squixs]

You can always install spacers, that will also reduce the low rider look

[aroundelway]

There are additional options beyond Ohlins.

I went with motion control 3 ways. The delta is 10mm lower in front and 14 in back, give or take a little. Details in the images of the spreadsheets towards the bottom.

https://f87.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1932688

[No_curebimmer]

Originally Posted by squixs

You can always install spacers, that will also reduce the low rider look

Yeah, that crossed my mind, lowering the car and not bringing out the tyre/wheel isn't ideal, so the spacers could help. Ultimately though, I was going for a wheel and tyre upgrade like this:

Richland Forged RF-GT4 w/ Michelin MP4S 255/30/19 in the front and 275/30/275 in the rear. Hopefully, once I get the ride height issue resolved, everything should be pretty much flushed with the fender w/o any rubbing.

I am planning on bringing it back to the shop next week. So, given the last few posts should I ask the shop to do something in particular?

[No_curebimmer]

Originally Posted by aroundelway

There are additional options beyond Ohlins.

I went with motion control 3 ways. The delta is 10mm lower in front and 14 in back, give or take a little. Details in the images of the spreadsheets towards the bottom.

https://f87.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1932688

Stunning on so many levels: CS, gold 763s, awesome coilover kit (great reputation) which IMO, offers best lowering height. Unfortunately, I couldn't fork out the extra € a 3-way coilover setup would command.

I never minded the OEM wheel gap and all that, so my goal w/ the Bilstein B16s was to improve the overall ride quality that pretty much all of us bitch about: clancky, jittery over most slight road imperfections

[Kattanah]

Originally Posted by No_curebimmer

Ok…I must be going kuku. Am I imagining a problem that ain't there? Check me guys: does anyone else see a low rider look in the front? Am I nitpicking for nothing?

@omasu car doesn't have the tucked in tyre look, yet his car has a lower front height…

Your front height, especially after 12k mi, is set and won't go any lower. Mine is currently at 23.5" (angle holding phone and tape measure might make it look off), after not even a few hundred miles (stock PSS tyres and 788s rims), so it will go lower by a few good mm..

Measurements pictures attached.

Can you share with me the Manufacturer Part Number of the B16 you got? I am curious, as I just placed an order for the Litchfield version.

[doughboy]

Originally Posted by No_curebimmer

Attached pictures after a few spirited driving days, as well as the alignment figures.

Weird, front looks low, rear look high if anything.

My front is 595 but doesn't look as low as yours.

[///MPhatic]

Originally Posted by No_curebimmer

Ok…I must be going kuku. Am I imagining a problem that ain't there? Check me guys: does anyone else see a low rider look in the front?

What are you on about? What is this "low rider" look?

When the front or rear are dropped you'll necessarily gain negative camber, meaning the top shoulder of the tires will tuck in. If you want it to be lower but still appear stock with regards to camber, you'll need to get spacers to compensate. 5mm should do it, but most go with 10/12 for the "flush" look. We're not talking stanceworks here, or hella-flush stuff, we're talking just generally correct fitment.

595/600 with 10/12 spacers is literally perfect for 90% of the guys on here, and is quite well documented.

You'll find many examples here: https://f87.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1251250

[No_curebimmer]

Originally Posted by ///MPhatic

What are you on about? What is this "low rider" look?

When the front or rear are dropped you'll necessarily gain negative camber, meaning the top shoulder of the tires will tuck in. If you want it to be lower but still appear stock with regards to camber, you'll need to get spacers to compensate. 5mm should do it, but most go with 10/12 for the "flush" look. We're not talking stanceworks here, or hella-flush stuff, we're talking just generally correct fitment.

595/600 with 10/12 spacers is literally perfect for 90% of the guys on here, and is quite well documented.

You'll find many examples here: https://f87.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1251250

Yes, thanks man - I got that lowering increases the camber.

I guess I was going by what other B16 installs and they don't have the tuck in look; maybe because the owner forgot to disclose (or I likely missed it) that they're also running spacers and/or camber plates combo…

So many variables here…suspension look and feel can be equally subjective and objective; @doughboy just above mentioned his doesn't have the low rider look but has similar height drop, and I don't recall hims stating he's rocking camber plates or spacers

[///MPhatic]

Originally Posted by No_curebimmer

Yes, thanks man - I got that lowering increases the camber.

I guess I was going by what other B16 installs and they don't have the tuck in look; maybe because the owner forgot to disclose (or I likely missed it) that they're also running spacers and/or camber plates combo…

So many variables here…suspension look and feel can be equally subjective and objective; @doughboy just above mentioned his doesn't have the low rider look but has similar height drop, and I don't recall hims stating he's rocking camber plates or spacers

Camber plates are for racers, as even at 585 front height you won't have much front negative camber.

If you don't like the tuck, rock the spacer, it's no big deal, and you can get a set for cheap.

I will say that there are variables with measuring as well, and with the cars themselves, but with the same drop/wheels/tires you should have the same look. This car is decidedly GERMAN.

[No_curebimmer]

Originally Posted by doughboy

Weird, front looks low, rear look high if anything.

My front is 595 but doesn't look as low as yours.

Cheers - to confirm, are you rocking camber plates or spacers per chance?

[No_curebimmer]

Originally Posted by ///MPhatic

Camber plates are for racers, as even at 585 front height you won't have much front negative camber.

If you don't like the tuck, rock the spacer, it's no big deal, and you can get a set for cheap.

I will say that there are variables with measuring as well, and with the cars themselves, but with the same drop/wheels/tires you should have the same look. This car is decidedly GERMAN.

Proper input mate!

Next up though, I'm going for the Richland Forged GT4 wheels which offer a bigger offset. That, combined w/ PS4S 355/30/19 and 275/30/19 tyres should definitely help both flushed looks and handling wise

Till then though…will spring up for the spacers if I end up hating the look that badly.

[omasou]

I wouldn't obsess on the "ride height" and look too much. Also don't forget your comparing your MP4S to my MPSS.

More important is if front scrapes when going fast over dips in the road. Luckily, I have only rubbed the little black rotor mud flaps.

I want to raise it between stock and the lowered specs probably 610/615, which should resolve daily driving and anxiety worrying about a bounce and scrape from dips in the road.

Lastly, I'd try to find a metric tape as it is removes the ambiguity of converting a lower resolution measurement in inches to mm.

[prompt]

what you guys recommend to get rid of the body roll, have a car road compliant but not crazy stiff?
I would like to go for a set of coilovers too, my use is 90% road, 10% track.I usually do 2 track days per year

[omasou]

Originally Posted by prompt

what you guys recommend to get rid of the body roll, have a car road compliant but not crazy stiff?
I would like to go for a set of coilovers too, my use is 90% road, 10% track.I usually do 2 track days per year

You're getting body roll w/the stock suspension? I suppose there's some but anything you do will make the car unlivable.

I added the coilovers to get rid of the harsh jarring compression/rebound of the stock suspension.

In this video Steve Dinan @3:05 talks about suspensions tuning and why he can uses softer springs. Tightening things up too much isn't always an improvement and applying race car solution strategy doesn't apply 1:1 to street cars.

Yeah, yeah I know some people don't like Dinan but at least listen to his reasoning it does make sense.

[prompt]

Originally Posted by omasou

You're getting body roll w/the stock suspension? I suppose there's some but anything you do will make the car unlivable.

I added the coilovers to get rid of the harsh jarring compression/rebound of the stock suspension.

In this video Steve Dinan @3:05 talks about suspensions tuning and why he can uses softer springs. Tightening things up too much isn't always an improvement and applying race car solution strategy doesn't apply 1:1 to street cars.

Yeah, yeah I know some people don't like Dinan but at least listen to his reasoning it does make sense.

Yes body roll just on track,during turn in
I'm on fully stock suspensions
I feel it get worse and worse more laps per session I do
Anyone feels the same?
I hope this picture explain it better