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      02-25-2018, 07:00 AM   #1
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BimmerLink / Bimmer Code and Wi-Fi BT OBD Adapter

Anyone using Wi-Fi or Bluetooth OBD Adaptor with BimmerCode & BimmerLink app?

http://www.bimmerlink.com/

http://bimmercodeapp.com/

BimmerLink app demo


BimmerCode with M2 demo


Look very tempting to me as it provides a lot more insights into the car's stats (e.g. pre LCI misses the engine oil temperature gauge), as an IT guy who loves `root`, I am about to get the adaptor with BimmerCode first and probably will buy the BimmerLink apphttp://www.bimmerlink.com/
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      02-25-2018, 07:25 AM   #2
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Well, I found this -> http://f87.bimmerpost.com/forums/sho....php?t=1338157

Buying it tomorrow.
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      02-25-2018, 03:43 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by terrywang View Post
V2VsbCwgSSBmb3VuZCB0aGlzIC0+IFt1cmxdaHR0cDovL2Y4Ny 5iaW1tZXJwb3N0LmNvbS9mb3J1bXMvc2hvd3RocmVhZC5waHA/dD0xMzM4MTU3Wy91cmxdCgpCdXlpbmcgaXQgdG9tb3Jyb3cu
Bought the app and adaptor way before the car arrived, but haven't had the chance to try it yet.... but as you've probably noticed - there is nothing but positive feedback out there.
The tread you found is very useful, though quite a lot of pages to go through.
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      02-25-2018, 09:55 PM   #4
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I've got both apps & they're easy to use. I'm a novice with the coding & had no problem coding the stop/start to remember last setting, reduced the mirror folding on closing time to .5 sec and got rid of the legal disclaimer. I followed the recommendations on this forum & had engine running/put phone into aeroplane mode for the coding process. As others have reported the engine shut down & I got a random error alert when each coding was completed (stop/start & mirror folding), the error re-set after a minute or 2. Doing the legal disclaimer cancelled my 8 pre-set buttons (a couple of minutes to re-do them) but otherwise no issues.

I use bimmerlink to mute ASD & keep the exhaust flap open. The only issue with bimmerlink is all the sensor values are in German so google translate will help with finding what you want, below I've copied from my phone notes the ones I translated.

Ansaugluft-Temperatur = intake air temperature

Batteriespannung = battery voltage

Füllstand Kraftstofftank = fuel level tank

Getriebetemperatur = gearbox temperature

Kraftstoffverbrauch seit letztem O…=fuel consumption since last oil change

Kupplungsmotormoment Istwert = Clutch motor torque actual value

Kuhlmitteltemperatur = coolant temperature

Motor-Temperatur = motor temperature

Motorolniveau = motor oil level

Motoroltemperatur grower 150C = motor temp great 150C

Oeldruck = oil pressure
Oldruck = oil pressure
Oldruck Istwert (Absolutdruck) = Öldruck actual value (absolute pressure)

Oltemperatur = oil temperature

Rohwert Ol- Nivea = crude oil level
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      02-26-2018, 01:04 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David.m View Post
I followed the recommendations on this forum & had engine running/put phone into aeroplane mode for the coding process.
Thanks for your input
Though I remember reading this on BimmerCode's website to have the engine off & ignition on when coding?
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      02-26-2018, 04:18 PM   #6
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Hi Nick,
Quote:
Originally Posted by nick_stp View Post
Though I remember reading this on BimmerCode's website to have the engine off & ignition on when coding?
I'm with David.m on this - I kept my ignition on/engine running while coding to avoid the ignition cutting out mid-way through coding. I took a look at the Bimmercode website and I can't see any reference there to having the engine off (the only instruction I saw was "Ignition On").

Quote:
Originally Posted by David.m View Post
... had no problem coding the stop/start to remember last setting, reduced the mirror folding on closing time to .5 sec and got rid of the legal disclaimer. I followed the recommendations on this forum & had engine running/put phone into aeroplane mode for the coding process.
I'd also endorse putting the phone into aeroplane mode - if you get a call in the middle of coding, that may not give good results. I used an iPad (it has a bigger screen so it was a bit easier to navigate), but I also put that into aeroplane mode as I didn't want other tasks (e.g. alerts, SMS messages etc) popping up while I was coding.

The changes that I did on top of what David.m has mentioned were the seat belt warnings, turning on the door LED's while reversing, enabling the TV during motion and configuring the reversing camera not to cut out when I take the car out of reverse and into drive (its really useful to have the camera remain active).

Interestingly, as a result of the last change, I've found that the Voice Recognition doesn't work while the reverse camera is active!

terrywang: one note in case you've not completely read the coding threads - some of the software configuration settings for the M2 have changed between model years. For example, I think that the MY16/MY17 cars have different reverse camera/parking sensor behaviour to the MY18 cars. If you have an earlier model year, you can get your BMW dealer to flash it and bring it up to the latest firmware level .. however this is a mixed bag as at some point BMW removed the ability to configure the number of indicator flashes when changing lane.

Happy Coding!
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      02-26-2018, 04:49 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by V.Smurf View Post
Hi Nick,

I'm with David.m on this - I kept my ignition on/engine running while coding to avoid the ignition cutting out mid-way through coding. I took a look at the Bimmercode website and I can't see any reference there to having the engine off (the only instruction I saw was "Ignition On").
Hi! I remember I did read that somewhere, so I went back to its website. It's in FAQ, question #4 (FAQ is on the same page of the link you provided. Scroll down to bottom)

Quote:
Originally Posted by V.Smurf View Post
I'd also endorse putting the phone into aeroplane mode
Yeah, I believe BimmerCode website said that as well
I think I'll try coding this weekend, and the things you mentioned also on my list
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      02-26-2018, 05:09 PM   #8
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Hi Nick,
Quote:
Originally Posted by nick_stp View Post
Hi! I remember I did read that somewhere, so I went back to its website. It's in FAQ, question #4 (FAQ is on the same page of the link you provided. Scroll down to bottom)
Good pickup - I actually re-read most of that page but not the FAQ part. While I would always follow the advice of Bimmercode, one suggestion I would make is to be sure that there is plenty of charge in the battery if the car turns off ignition due to low battery, you may be stuffed!

I've had enough BMW battery problems to last a lifetime, so I'm very tuned into this as a potential source of issues. Buying a trickle charger (and using it!) is a very good investment as they're only about $80.

Cheers!
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      02-26-2018, 05:20 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by V.Smurf View Post
Hi Nick,

Good pickup - I actually re-read most of that page but not the FAQ part. While I would always follow the advice of Bimmercode, one suggestion I would make is to be sure that there is plenty of charge in the battery if the car turns off ignition due to low battery, you may be stuffed!

I've had enough BMW battery problems to last a lifetime, so I'm very tuned into this as a potential source of issues. Buying a trickle charger (and using it!) is a very good investment as they're only about $80.

Cheers!
Thanks for the advice
Finger crossed, for the first coding to come.
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      02-26-2018, 05:55 PM   #10
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why not just leave the engine running?
just ordered the module will report on how it goes, ass is the most annoying thing ever
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      02-26-2018, 06:25 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nick_stp View Post
Thanks for your input
Though I remember reading this on BimmerCode's website to have the engine off & ignition on when coding?
Think I had missed that bit on their website but admit I was slightly nervous coding for the first time, don't know much about computers but know a disruption during the actual coding would not be good. The time consuming part was the app reading all the current vehicle settings, once that is done choosing a change and effecting the coding was pretty quick so maybe just stop the engine for the last step.

Have to say being able to press just one button once to start/drive away is good, while it's a simple task to turn off the start/stop it would sh_t me when I forgot, and the start/stop starts working when the engine is still cold which I suspect over time wouldn't help engine wear.
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      02-26-2018, 06:33 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David.m View Post
Think I had missed that bit on their website but admit I was slightly nervous coding for the first time, don't know much about computers but know a disruption during the actual coding would not be good. The time consuming part was the app reading all the current vehicle settings, once that is done choosing a change and effecting the coding was pretty quick so maybe just stop the engine for the last step.
Thanks again David.
Quote:
Originally Posted by David.m View Post
Have to say being able to press just one button once to start/drive away is good, while it's a simple task to turn off the start/stop it would sh_t me when I forgot, and the start/stop starts working when the engine is still cold which I suspect over time wouldn't help engine wear.
Now I'm already used to the 3-button start-up: engine start->start/stop->sport. But coding will definitely makes life easier, not to mention all the other cool features.
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      02-26-2018, 06:41 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by V.Smurf View Post
I've had enough BMW battery problems to last a lifetime, so I'm very tuned into this as a potential source of issues. Buying a trickle charger (and using it!) is a very good investment as they're only about $80.

Cheers!
Have been thinking of getting one of these for when I'm away for a few weeks (saves my neighbour starting the car up). Can it be connected via the terminals under the bonnet or do you have to connect direct to the battery?
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      02-26-2018, 08:04 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David.m View Post
Have been thinking of getting one of these for when I'm away for a few weeks (saves my neighbour starting the car up). Can it be connected via the terminals under the bonnet or do you have to connect direct to the battery?
I've actually not tried the points under the bonnet - I'll see if I can give it a go and let you know.

On my X6, the trickle charger has been wired in ... on the M2, I've just used it via the alligator clamps in the boot and this works just fine. I'd imagine the points under the bonnet should be the same.

NB: I've not been game to wire it in for the M2 (it should be relatively easy, but I'm not prepared to fiddle with the battery).

Cheers,
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      02-26-2018, 08:38 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by V.Smurf View Post
I've actually not tried the points under the bonnet - I'll see if I can give it a go and let you know.

Cheers,
Many thanks. I only wonder because having cables coming out of the closed boot for 4-6 weeks would likely permanently deform the rubber seal.
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      02-26-2018, 10:42 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David.m View Post
Many thanks. I only wonder because having cables coming out of the closed boot for 4-6 weeks would likely permanently deform the rubber seal.
There's a fix for that ... just leave the boot open That's what I'm going to do when I go travelling. This of course assumes that the car is parked in a lock up garage (or is otherwise secure).

I just use a screwdriver to manipulate/close the boot latch so that the car thinks the boot is closed and hence turns off the boot courtesy light. I do a similar thing on my X6 and have never had an issue ... when the charging is complete (or you return from holidays) just press the boot open button on the remote at the latch will reopen and you can operate the boot as before.
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      03-01-2018, 06:58 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by V.Smurf View Post
There's a fix for that ... just leave the boot open That's what I'm going to do when I go travelling. This of course assumes that the car is parked in a lock up garage (or is otherwise secure).

I just use a screwdriver to manipulate/close the boot latch so that the car thinks the boot is closed and hence turns off the boot courtesy light. I do a similar thing on my X6 and have never had an issue ... when the charging is complete (or you return from holidays) just press the boot open button on the remote at the latch will reopen and you can operate the boot as before.
I discovered a while back if you leave the boot open the light automatically switches off after 10-15min (fortunately as I'd accidently left the boot open for a day while parked in the garage).
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      03-01-2018, 09:54 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David.m View Post
I discovered a while back if you leave the boot open the light automatically switches off after 10-15min (fortunately as I'd accidently left the boot open for a day while parked in the garage).
When I had the trickle charger fitted to the X6 by the SouthernBM guys, they cautioned me to make sure that the car was locked and that the boot (tailgate) was in the locked position as well. Apparently the car needs to be "fully off" (or however you phrase this) during the charge process to get the best charge on the battery.

Apparently, leaving a door unlocked (or the boot unlocked) means that some element of the car is still running and drawing battery charge.

I don't know whether this is entirely technically correct, as it strikes me that the M2 is "awake" anyway as I'm able to send it commands from the phone app (e.g. turn on the ventilation). I note that the advice was offered in relation to the X6 (and not the M2).

Just sharing the SouthernBM suggestion as its the process I follow
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      03-04-2018, 11:25 PM   #19
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Purchased the OBD to Wi-Fi adapter, can't wait for it to arrive.

My friend (mechanic) told me that even using the official program (software) to do the coding, it is buggy (not stable, crashes or reboots from time to time), so expect some weird behaviours when coding ;-(
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      03-05-2018, 01:36 AM   #20
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Just coded this weekend.
No issue during the process or after. Only thing is it took a while to connect to the adaptor via WiFi, I started to think it was a faulty one...
Very easy to use, and coding itself didn't take that long either.
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      03-05-2018, 04:36 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nick_stp View Post
Just coded this weekend.
No issue during the process or after. Only thing is it took a while to connect to the adaptor via WiFi, I started to think it was a faulty one...
Very easy to use, and coding itself didn't take that long either.
Thanks for the update. The adapter and BimmerCode / BimmerLink really lowered the barrier of coding BMWs (I was looking at cable and esys with Windows PCs - I use Mac and Linux unfortunately..., that sucks).
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      03-05-2018, 04:51 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by terrywang View Post
Thanks for the update. The adapter and BimmerCode / BimmerLink really lowered the barrier of coding BMWs (I was looking at cable and esys with Windows PCs - I use Mac and Linux unfortunately..., that sucks).
np. Exactly, the non-expert mode should be easy enough for most people.
Actually, when I tried the coding, "Instrument Cluster" was greyed, not sure if it's normal... Anyone?
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