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      04-22-2019, 10:39 AM   #23
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Ping!

The below is I have my BlackVue DS750S-2CH set up now. I'm getting a little over 12 hours in Parking Mode but I get the below message when I come back to the car in the morning:
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      05-06-2019, 01:28 PM   #24
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OK, I know it's been a (very) long time coming, but I've done the wiring diagram I promised...

Rather than just post it, I think it needs some explanation, and some history.

I first started with the fairly typical PMP setup shown below, though with the added feature of a DC-DC convertor for USB power to a WiFi hotspot.

Although I actually trust our AGM battery because they're somewhat more deep cycle safe than a traditional lead acid battery, I found I could never get more than 12 hours run-time, and the reason for this was voltage.


AGM batteries seem to have a lower typical voltage at rest than a traditional battery, and this combined with a short sudden drop in voltage that the M2 has consistently 12 hours after shut off, results in the PMP cutting power simply due to voltage. Details of this phenomenon and testing can be found in this thread.

I then decided to add a Cellink B to get more run time, which initially was installed as shown here with no PMP:


This didn't get me much more run time because the capacity of a single Cellink doesn't give you much more than 12 hours anyway. I was also worried that the Cellink would be fully discharged each night when I got home, and not get sufficiently charged with my normal short drive to work. I'd therefore end up in a position where parking mode ended up being just a couple hours!

In order to try to prevent the Cellink fully discharging over night, I put another PMP after the Cellink to simply act as a timer to switch off the dashcam after the set time, rather than simply run the Cellink to empty. This is shown here:


This works as intended, but 12 hours is really too long to maintain any charge in the Cellink over night, so over time, the Cellink does end up running down pretty low if I don't go on a long drive. As before, I end up with limited parking mode recording time.

Next I added a second PMP, this time for a timer and battery monitor to charge the Cellink B. One issue is that the PMP is rated only for a small current draw, whereas the Cellink wants to pull 7 Amps to charge. I therefore added a relay to handle this extra current, switched on by the PMP output.

I usually leave this second PMP switched to 'Off', so I'm operating in the mode as shown above, but if I want as much run time as possible, I switch this second PMP to On, and the first PMP to Infinite Time. This gives me:

~12 Hrs on the car battery before the brief voltage drop spike (Cellink guaranteed to be fully charged after this time)
Plus
Full Run-time of my Cellink


I found I was getting about 20 hours with this system, but wanted more, so I added an expansion battery, which gets me to about 40 hours now:

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      05-06-2019, 01:44 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dtmurf View Post
Ping!

The below is I have my BlackVue DS750S-2CH set up now. I'm getting a little over 12 hours in Parking Mode but I get the below message when I come back to the car in the morning:
Sorry for the delay dtmurf!

I can see two issues with the installation as you have it:
  1. Your Power Magic Battery is charging through a PMP, which is may not be rated for its charge current needs
  2. You're pulling a lot of power out of your battery every night to fully charge the Power Magic Battery

It's true that my setup now is somewhat similar to yours, and I run it that way if I need to get the absolute longest run-time, like if I'm going on a business trip overnight.

I don't run my system like that every day though, because it does put excessive strain on the car battery. Having said that, the Cellink B I think may be a larger capacity than your Power Magic Battery, and I get nearly 12 hours out of the Cellink when fully charged, and it looks like you're not getting that much out of your Power Magic Battery.

Day to day, I run my system with the second PMP (timer to charge the Cellink after the ignition is off) set to 'Off', and with the first PMP set to 12 hours. If I've been on a long drive, I'll get 12 hours easily from my Cellink + Expansion, but if I just use my car for commuting, the Cellink & Expansion will drop down in charge and eventually I'll end up with only a few hours parking mode.

Once I find my parking mode time is reduced, I either plug the Cellink in to a 12v power source in my garage overnight, or simply set the second PMP to 'On' one time so that the Cellink gets fully topped up.

I have never had the error message on the iDrive screen that you get, but I only rarely charge my Cellink with the ignition off. I might also be using different fuses from you (147 & 150).

What I do notice is that the Auto Start-Stop doesn't activate if the battery condition is not good. If I've not charged the Cellink with the ignition off, this can happen if I've just not driven the car over the weekend, but if I've charged the Cellink with the ignition off, it might take a day or two before Auto Start-Stop works again.
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      05-06-2019, 03:14 PM   #26
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Thanks Nezil! You are awesome! I am now going to finish this little project of mine. I better order my Cellink.
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      05-21-2019, 12:24 PM   #27
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Wow this is awesome. Thanks so much for putting all this together.

My car should be arriving within the next month
and I have been researching a dash cam and radar/laser set up for it. What you are running is exactly what I was thinking about.

Question though, would the new Celllink Neo battery fix some of the problems with the battery being drained all the way down to zero every night? My situation is a bit different from yours though. My M2c will be my "summer" car in which it would be driven every day 30-40 min commute to work and either parked in my driveway or on the street in front of my house at night. So parking mode would need to stay active for as long as possible while out/at work and at night when home. In the winter it will be placed in a nice comfortable home with a trickle charger.

What would be your recommendations for my situation? Also how much should an install similar to this cost because... yeah sorry I'm not an engineer and I'd not feel comfortable doing something like this myself. lol

Again awesome job!
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      07-02-2019, 12:35 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nezil View Post
Sorry for the delay dtmurf!

I can see two issues with the installation as you have it:
  1. Your Power Magic Battery is charging through a PMP, which is may not be rated for its charge current needs
  2. You're pulling a lot of power out of your battery every night to fully charge the Power Magic Battery
I’ve not been around much recently, real life and all that, but I changed my set up a few weeks ago and thought I’d post an update. Nezil thanks much for posting the details of your setup and the history of your changes which is interesting.

My original setup had the Dash Cam (Blackvue DS750s-2Ch) connected to a Power Magic Battery (PMB) and the PMB connected to the Car Battery through a Power Magic Pro (PMP). The Cam would run while I was driving with the PMB being charged by the car battery which was being charged by the alternator. Five minutes after I stopped driving, the Dash Cam would switch to Parking Mode. It would continue to run from the PMB which would continue to be charged by the car battery until it was discharged down to 12V when the PMP would cut off power from the car battery. At that point, the PMB would still be fully charged and Parking Mode would continue for however long it took the PMB to discharged to the point where it could no longer power the Dash Cam.

This all worked as advertised but when I returned to the car in the morning, I had two problems: 1) the comfort access would not work. I had to push the unlock button on the key to open the door or the trunk. I know this is a first world problem but something was causing the car to prioritize systems based on power reserves and 2) I’d get the “Battery discharging while stopped” notification pictured above. The PMB was drained (as expected) but I really don’t know how long it would last, I thought I was getting about 12 hours but it was probably closer to 8. All in all, it seems my car didn’t like this set up.

Unrelated to the Dash Cam, I have a CTEK Battery Charger comfort access ‘port’ installed in the sidewall of the trunk. I store the car in the winter and there are times when I travel for work a month or more at a time so the access port allows me to plug in the charger (MSX 5.0) without having to pull up the floor. It was the first ‘mod’ I did to the car and I didn’t know about the Intelligent Battery Sensor (IBS) which I effectively bypassed by connecting the charger port directly to the battery terminals. I had it hooked up this way since shortly after getting the car with no problems. It has a little stop light indicator where one of the indicators is either steady green or flashing amber or red depending on its determination of the battery’s state of charge. I’m not a huge fan of this function as I’ve literally driven the car all day and when I open the trunk to unload, I’ve got a steady green but it’s flashing amber by the time I finish. It works great for keeping the battery charged.

I think the IBS was flagging the battery discharging while stopped notification and it might have been due to the CTEK Comfort Access Panel which, technically, was discharging the batter when the car was stopped but I didn’t get the notification until I installed the Dash Cam so I think at most, it added to the problem. I’m probably going to remove this access panel and go a different way soon but I’ve left it for now as I need to buy a new side panel or live with the current one having a hole in it.

Nezil opinion that the PMP was not able to provide enough current to charge the PMB was correct. The Specs are listed on Blackvue’s web site but I should have picked up on this just from the gauge of wire used with the PMP but I overlooked it. That being the case, I’m not sure the PMB was ever fully charged.

With my revised set up, I rewired everything to use the ground point on the battery compartment floor and the positive (+) point on the battery compartment back wall. I think this keeps the IBS in the loop. I’ve connected the PMB to these points by way of a relay which is controlled by a switched fuse (#147). When the car starts, the relay closes and the PMB gets charged. The Dash Cam is still running off the PMB but relies on the PMB completely for Parking Mode. When the car is turned off, the relay opens cutting off the charging source for the PMB. I’ve installed a switch on the Dash Cam power line so that I can turn it off when I get home as I don’t want it draining the PMB while sitting in my garage.

When rewiring the Dash Cam, I decided to add a USB port and almost went the same way as N but found this double port thing-e with a digital volt meter and it was almost Long Beach Blue so that sold it. I might need to charge something when the engine is off so I connected it up, along with the CTEK Access Port, using another relay to an always powered fuse (#150) but I installed another switch so I can turn both off when not in use to ensure they are not drawing power when I don’t want them too.

Everything works. I no longer get the battery discharging while stopped notification and I have no issues with my comfort access. I’m getting over 10 hours of parking mode when the PMB is fully charged. I have a 30 to 40-minute commute and that seems to be getting the job done.

I have a Power Magic Ultra Battery on the way and I think it might double my Parking Mode time but if not, the Ultra Battery has a daisy chain option so I’ll get another one which I’m pretty sure will answer the mail but if not, I’ll wire the PMP back in to control the charging relay and pull some time from the car battery.
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      07-02-2019, 12:40 AM   #29
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Nezil have you considered this option for running your Dash Cam in your garage? I’m sure it could be connected up in the trunk with a switch, one side powers the Cam with the battery and the other from the mains adapter. Might be a better option for downloading your files.
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      12-10-2019, 11:40 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dtmurf View Post
I’ve not been around much recently, real life and all that, but I changed my set up a few weeks ago and thought I’d post an update. Nezil thanks much for posting the details of your setup and the history of your changes which is interesting.

My original setup had the Dash Cam (Blackvue DS750s-2Ch) connected to a Power Magic Battery (PMB) and the PMB connected to the Car Battery through a Power Magic Pro (PMP). The Cam would run while I was driving with the PMB being charged by the car battery which was being charged by the alternator. Five minutes after I stopped driving, the Dash Cam would switch to Parking Mode. It would continue to run from the PMB which would continue to be charged by the car battery until it was discharged down to 12V when the PMP would cut off power from the car battery. At that point, the PMB would still be fully charged and Parking Mode would continue for however long it took the PMB to discharged to the point where it could no longer power the Dash Cam.

This all worked as advertised but when I returned to the car in the morning, I had two problems: 1) the comfort access would not work. I had to push the unlock button on the key to open the door or the trunk. I know this is a first world problem but something was causing the car to prioritize systems based on power reserves and 2) I’d get the “Battery discharging while stopped” notification pictured above. The PMB was drained (as expected) but I really don’t know how long it would last, I thought I was getting about 12 hours but it was probably closer to 8. All in all, it seems my car didn’t like this set up.

Unrelated to the Dash Cam, I have a CTEK Battery Charger comfort access ‘port’ installed in the sidewall of the trunk. I store the car in the winter and there are times when I travel for work a month or more at a time so the access port allows me to plug in the charger (MSX 5.0) without having to pull up the floor. It was the first ‘mod’ I did to the car and I didn’t know about the Intelligent Battery Sensor (IBS) which I effectively bypassed by connecting the charger port directly to the battery terminals. I had it hooked up this way since shortly after getting the car with no problems. It has a little stop light indicator where one of the indicators is either steady green or flashing amber or red depending on its determination of the battery’s state of charge. I’m not a huge fan of this function as I’ve literally driven the car all day and when I open the trunk to unload, I’ve got a steady green but it’s flashing amber by the time I finish. It works great for keeping the battery charged.

I think the IBS was flagging the battery discharging while stopped notification and it might have been due to the CTEK Comfort Access Panel which, technically, was discharging the batter when the car was stopped but I didn’t get the notification until I installed the Dash Cam so I think at most, it added to the problem. I’m probably going to remove this access panel and go a different way soon but I’ve left it for now as I need to buy a new side panel or live with the current one having a hole in it.

Nezil opinion that the PMP was not able to provide enough current to charge the PMB was correct. The Specs are listed on Blackvue’s web site but I should have picked up on this just from the gauge of wire used with the PMP but I overlooked it. That being the case, I’m not sure the PMB was ever fully charged.

With my revised set up, I rewired everything to use the ground point on the battery compartment floor and the positive (+) point on the battery compartment back wall. I think this keeps the IBS in the loop. I’ve connected the PMB to these points by way of a relay which is controlled by a switched fuse (#147). When the car starts, the relay closes and the PMB gets charged. The Dash Cam is still running off the PMB but relies on the PMB completely for Parking Mode. When the car is turned off, the relay opens cutting off the charging source for the PMB. I’ve installed a switch on the Dash Cam power line so that I can turn it off when I get home as I don’t want it draining the PMB while sitting in my garage.

When rewiring the Dash Cam, I decided to add a USB port and almost went the same way as N but found this double port thing-e with a digital volt meter and it was almost Long Beach Blue so that sold it. I might need to charge something when the engine is off so I connected it up, along with the CTEK Access Port, using another relay to an always powered fuse (#150) but I installed another switch so I can turn both off when not in use to ensure they are not drawing power when I don’t want them too.

Everything works. I no longer get the battery discharging while stopped notification and I have no issues with my comfort access. I’m getting over 10 hours of parking mode when the PMB is fully charged. I have a 30 to 40-minute commute and that seems to be getting the job done.

I have a Power Magic Ultra Battery on the way and I think it might double my Parking Mode time but if not, the Ultra Battery has a daisy chain option so I’ll get another one which I’m pretty sure will answer the mail but if not, I’ll wire the PMP back in to control the charging relay and pull some time from the car battery.
I currently have a 900S, PMB, and PMP. I have my car parked in the driveway overnight for ~12hours, with a usual commute of 30-40minutes. Do you or Nezil have a dumbed down version of how I should wire my setup for maximum recording time? I too get the battery discharged while stopped message. I currently only have the 900S and PMP hooked up and its rather annoying having the comfort access stop working in the morning. In the two years i've owned my car, I've probably only had the stop/start function work a handful of times due to a discharged/weak battery from the dashcam. I'd like to fix this but not sure how. I'm no engineer so looking at your wiring diagrams gave me a huge headache
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      12-11-2019, 12:12 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CEDS 2 View Post
I currently have a 900S, PMB, and PMP. I have my car parked in the driveway overnight for ~12hours, with a usual commute of 30-40minutes. Do you or Nezil have a dumbed down version of how I should wire my setup for maximum recording time? I too get the battery discharged while stopped message. I currently only have the 900S and PMP hooked up and its rather annoying having the comfort access stop working in the morning. In the two years i've owned my car, I've probably only had the stop/start function work a handful of times due to a discharged/weak battery from the dashcam. I'd like to fix this but not sure how. I'm no engineer so looking at your wiring diagrams gave me a huge headache

With the dashcam connected to the car battery by way of the PMP, I believe you are always going to have the ‘battery discharging while stopped” issue. The car computer is smart enough to know something is draining the battery while it’s not being charged by the alternator.

I’d have to re-read Nezil post but he discovered that the car performs some kind of reset after being parked for a number of hours (I can’t remember how long) and this may also be a factor. I don’t recall if he measured that reset (voltage drop) without running the cam or if the car computer takes this action to see if it can reset whatever system is draining the battery.

If you put the PMB in the middle (between the PMP and the dashcam), you’ll have the same issue plus the PMP does not pass enough current to properly charge the PMB.
So, that being the case, the only options IMO are to keep running your PMP and cam without the PMB set up or ditch the PMP, run the dashcam from the PMB and charge the PMB using a relay. I don’t know if a 30~40-minute commute will fully charge the PMB but I suspect it may do.

I’ve never actually measured how long the PMB will run the dashcam in parking mode. I don’t have the equipment to automate such a measurement and have not bothered to do it manually but I may over the winter just for SA. I believe that a full charged PMB will run the cam in parking mode for at least 8 hours but I really think I’ve gotten 12+ hours from it. I upgraded to the Power Magic Ultra Battery and stopped worrying about it! 😊

I’ll post a cleaned-up version of my set up below but if you are not comfortable with wiring and voltage, I strongly suggest that you have a professional shop do it for you. It shouldn’t cost that much and you’ll have the peace of mind knowing it’s done right but as with all mods, mod at your own risk!
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      12-11-2019, 12:46 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dtmurf View Post
With the dashcam connected to the car battery by way of the PMP, I believe you are always going to have the ‘battery discharging while stopped” issue. The car computer is smart enough to know something is draining the battery while it’s not being charged by the alternator.

I’d have to re-read Nezil post but he discovered that the car performs some kind of reset after being parked for a number of hours (I can’t remember how long) and this may also be a factor. I don’t recall if he measured that reset (voltage drop) without running the cam or if the car computer takes this action to see if it can reset whatever system is draining the battery.

If you put the PMB in the middle (between the PMP and the dashcam), you’ll have the same issue plus the PMP does not pass enough current to properly charge the PMB.
So, that being the case, the only options IMO are to keep running your PMP and cam without the PMB set up or ditch the PMP, run the dashcam from the PMB and charge the PMB using a relay. I don’t know if a 30~40-minute commute will fully charge the PMB but I suspect it may do.

I’ve never actually measured how long the PMB will run the dashcam in parking mode. I don’t have the equipment to automate such a measurement and have not bothered to do it manually but I may over the winter just for SA. I believe that a full charged PMB will run the cam in parking mode for at least 8 hours but I really think I’ve gotten 12+ hours from it. I upgraded to the Power Magic Ultra Battery and stopped worrying about it! 😊

I’ll post a cleaned-up version of my set up below but if you are not comfortable with wiring and voltage, I strongly suggest that you have a professional shop do it for you. It shouldn’t cost that much and you’ll have the peace of mind knowing it’s done right but as with all mods, mod at your own risk!
Nezil here...

I measured the voltage overnight without having the camera connected just to see what happened. Technically, in order to measure the voltage, I had to draw some current because of the equipment I was using, but I set this to 0.05A I think, which is pretty low. The vehicle does something at exactly 6 hours every single time the car is turned off. The voltage drops to just under 12 volts for about 2 minutes and then comes back up again.

Which fuse are you connecting to? I never have the 'battery discharging while stopped' error, even when I do set things up in a way that the battery is being discharged.

To summarise what I'm doing day to day... I am basically just using a Cellink B + Expansion to do all of the work. I do have a PMP acting as a 12 hour timer to stop the camera running over 12 hours, but that's all. I'd rather it actually ran only for 6 hours but there is no setting for that in the PMP so I have it set to 12. When I drive to work and back (about 20 mins each way) the Cellink Battery is charging. When I stop, it's discharging.

I can configure the system for longer run-time, and often do this if I park overnight somewhere, like at the airport on an overnight business trip. In this case I set the Cellink to continue charging after I've stopped the car and set the PMP timer to infinite effectively allowing the Cellink to charge for 6 hours (until the BMW battery voltage drops to less than 12), and then switch over to discharge until it's empty. Doing this I get about 18 hours of run-time. I wish it was more, but it is what it is.

As I said though, even configured for overnight use, I still don't get a warning. I wonder if it's because you're pulling voltage through a fuse that is being monitored. In my current setup I pull power directly from the battery when the Cellink is being charged, but even before this, I didn't get the error when using Fuse 147.

According to my wiring research, posted here: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...it?usp=sharing, 147 is used for the DC/DC convertor and the exhaust flap. This information came from ISTA+ wiring diagrams.
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      12-11-2019, 11:06 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nezil View Post
Nezil here...

I measured the voltage overnight without having the camera connected just to see what happened. Technically, in order to measure the voltage, I had to draw some current because of the equipment I was using, but I set this to 0.05A I think, which is pretty low. The vehicle does something at exactly 6 hours every single time the car is turned off. The voltage drops to just under 12 volts for about 2 minutes and then comes back up again.

Which fuse are you connecting to? I never have the 'battery discharging while stopped' error, even when I do set things up in a way that the battery is being discharged.

To summarise what I'm doing day to day... I am basically just using a Cellink B + Expansion to do all of the work. I do have a PMP acting as a 12 hour timer to stop the camera running over 12 hours, but that's all. I'd rather it actually ran only for 6 hours but there is no setting for that in the PMP so I have it set to 12. When I drive to work and back (about 20 mins each way) the Cellink Battery is charging. When I stop, it's discharging.

I can configure the system for longer run-time, and often do this if I park overnight somewhere, like at the airport on an overnight business trip. In this case I set the Cellink to continue charging after I've stopped the car and set the PMP timer to infinite effectively allowing the Cellink to charge for 6 hours (until the BMW battery voltage drops to less than 12), and then switch over to discharge until it's empty. Doing this I get about 18 hours of run-time. I wish it was more, but it is what it is.

As I said though, even configured for overnight use, I still don't get a warning. I wonder if it's because you're pulling voltage through a fuse that is being monitored. In my current setup I pull power directly from the battery when the Cellink is being charged, but even before this, I didn't get the error when using Fuse 147.

According to my wiring research, posted here: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...it?usp=sharing, 147 is used for the DC/DC convertor and the exhaust flap. This information came from ISTA+ wiring diagrams.
Hi Nezil,

I think the "battery discharging while stopped" error is moreso related to the environment I am in more than anything. I only get this error in the winter time, so with my limited knowledge...i'm assuming the cold weather is not good for the battery and drains it much faster.

dtmurf what does the bosch relay do? I think i'd be comfortable installing it myself once I understand the diagram or maybe i'll ask a friend who is more familiar with electrical work for some help...but I guess your setup would be more ideal for my use? I think about 12hrs is more than enough for me in parking mode.
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      12-12-2019, 09:58 PM   #34
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Can I just give kudos to this post. Seriously, those diagrams...!!!! Bloody awesome~!!
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      12-15-2019, 08:53 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nezil View Post
OK, I know it's been a (very) long time coming, but I've done the wiring diagram I promised...

Rather than just post it, I think it needs some explanation, and some history.
.....

I'm using a Cellink Neo, charging voltage is 45 min (9A Hardwire). Does that mean I have to use FUSE 147 with a Fuse rating of 10AMP and above? Will a 15AMP or 20AMP work?

I note that it originally had a 5AMP fuse.
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      12-15-2019, 09:41 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thecartel View Post
I'm using a Cellink Neo, charging voltage is 45 min (9A Hardwire). Does that mean I have to use FUSE 147 with a Fuse rating of 10AMP and above? Will a 15AMP or 20AMP work?

I note that it originally had a 5AMP fuse.
You shouldn't really just replace the 147 5A with a 10A fuse. Whilst that may work, there are two possibilities for why the fuse was 5A originally.

The first is that the wiring or power source may not be capable of supplying more than 5A (some of the 12v supplies come from the FEM or REM, and are switched internally to those modules and may have current limitations). The second is that the originally connected devices could fail catastrophically if the supply current is allowed to go higher than 5A, whereas they may fail gracefully if limited to 5A.

These are of course worst case scenarios, and I'm almost certain you won't have an issue. Let me read back through my notes and see how I was charging my Cellink B (7A) through the different revisions....

Looks like I was using fuse 147 to charge the Cellink for a while, and at 7A that didn't blow the fuse... I guess I was lucky, or I might have set the charge current to 5A, which you can do on the Cellink B.

One option that might be open to you, is to use an unused fuse in the rear (or front) fuse tray. There are quite a few, and I've added new wires to the front tray very easily for my meth kit and for an ACC 12v pin on the OBD port. Take a look at this spreadsheet and see if there are any unused fuses available that you could use:

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...it?usp=sharing
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Last edited by Nezil; 12-15-2019 at 09:47 PM..
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      12-16-2019, 04:31 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nezil View Post
You shouldn't really just replace the 147 5A with a 10A fuse. Whilst that may work, there are two possibilities for why the fuse was 5A originally.

The first is that the wiring or power source may not be capable of supplying more than 5A (some of the 12v supplies come from the FEM or REM, and are switched internally to those modules and may have current limitations). The second is that the originally connected devices could fail catastrophically if the supply current is allowed to go higher than 5A, whereas they may fail gracefully if limited to 5A.

These are of course worst case scenarios, and I'm almost certain you won't have an issue. Let me read back through my notes and see how I was charging my Cellink B (7A) through the different revisions....

Looks like I was using fuse 147 to charge the Cellink for a while, and at 7A that didn't blow the fuse... I guess I was lucky, or I might have set the charge current to 5A, which you can do on the Cellink B.

One option that might be open to you, is to use an unused fuse in the rear (or front) fuse tray. There are quite a few, and I've added new wires to the front tray very easily for my meth kit and for an ACC 12v pin on the OBD port. Take a look at this spreadsheet and see if there are any unused fuses available that you could use:

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...it?usp=sharing
So what you're saying is just find a 15AMP fuse and fuse tap into that?

From your list would you recommend Fuse no1 or 3?
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      12-17-2019, 03:00 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thecartel View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nezil View Post
OK, I know it's been a (very) long time coming, but I've done the wiring diagram I promised...

Rather than just post it, I think it needs some explanation, and some history.
.....

I'm using a Cellink Neo, charging voltage is 45 min (9A Hardwire). Does that mean I have to use FUSE 147 with a Fuse rating of 10AMP and above? Will a 15AMP or 20AMP work?

I note that it originally had a 5AMP fuse.
I was having same issue. Saw fuse 147 is 5A...do I just plug in a 5A fuse?
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      12-17-2019, 08:48 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CEDS 2 View Post
I was having same issue. Saw fuse 147 is 5A...do I just plug in a 5A fuse?
I am so frustrated at the moment because my Cellink Neo is charging and discharging regardless of whether I do LOW input (5A in, with 5A fuse in Fuse147) or HIGH input with (9A in, 15AMP Fuse in Fuse147) but it does not keep my BlackVue DR750S 2CH powered on!

The BlackVue has a tendency to die after awhile and no lights on the BlackVue except SOLID front white LED. I have to manually unplug the power cable at the front camera and then plug it back in and press and hold the power button in order to turn in on again.

Can anyone assist?
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      12-22-2019, 02:46 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thecartel View Post
I am so frustrated at the moment because my Cellink Neo is charging and discharging regardless of whether I do LOW input (5A in, with 5A fuse in Fuse147) or HIGH input with (9A in, 15AMP Fuse in Fuse147) but it does not keep my BlackVue DR750S 2CH powered on!

The BlackVue has a tendency to die after awhile and no lights on the BlackVue except SOLID front white LED. I have to manually unplug the power cable at the front camera and then plug it back in and press and hold the power button in order to turn in on again.

Can anyone assist?
Sorry I cant assist but I'm having the exact same problem with my Thinkware F770 at the moment. Fuse 147 just doesnt seem to work for me. Also tried fuses 146/148/154 which are meant to be ignition switched fuses but nothing works. Really confused!
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