[M Fifty]

How tight do you think they need doing up? NewTIS suggests an initial torque then a further quarter turn - so stretch bolts.

Did you take the strut tops off during installation, or leave them in place and just undo the nut on the shaft of the strut? If you didn't touch them I suggest leave them well alone.

[VisualEcho]

Originally Posted by M Fifty

How tight do you think they need doing up? NewTIS suggests an initial torque then a further quarter turn - so stretch bolts.

Did you take the strut tops off during installation, or leave them in place and just undo the nut on the shaft of the strut? If you didn't touch them I suggest leave them well alone.

The video I used suggested taking them completely off of the car, so that's what I did. I torqued them to 30 Nm as per the instructions in Mosely's DIY.

[M Fifty]

How tight did they seem when you undid them?

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...uts/1VnYnOqVpQ

[VisualEcho]

Originally Posted by M Fifty

How tight did they seem when you undid them?

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...uts/1VnYnOqVpQ

Not terribly tight. And no one said to replace the strut bar nut either.

I have a feeling I'm going out of my way for things that most people just do.

On a side note, dropped another thread, and she sits pretty close to perfect now IMO. 2.5 threads showing.

[VisualEcho]

And another shot from the front. Doesn't look as perfect here. Seems it changes depending on the lighting.

[Drop the hammer]

On the subject of adjusting the heights. Note the rear spring cups fit into the frame holes (stock cups removed). And there’s an un-even coating on the frame that sometimes causes the rear springs cups to not sit evenly in the frame from side to side. This causes one spring to sit higher than the other when the adjusters are at the same height, and that causes the opposite front corner to be more compressed. Care should be taken when setting the initial ride heights and then trying to match corners. Really need to corner balance with scales.
Now that my springs have settled I’ll take another kick at it, might try to lift the front from Center jack point and level the rear adjusters first, then do front.

[VisualEcho]

Originally Posted by Drop the hammer

On the subject of adjusting the heights. Note the rear spring cups fit into the frame holes (stock cups removed). And there’s an un-even coating on the frame that sometimes causes the rear springs cups to not sit evenly in the frame from side to side. This causes one spring to sit higher than the other when the adjusters are at the same height, and that causes the opposite front corner to be more compressed. Care should be taken when setting the initial ride heights and then trying to match corners. Really need to corner balance with scales.
Now that my springs have settled I’ll take another kick at it, might try to lift the front from Center jack point and level the rear adjusters first, then do front.

You're a bit late to this party, but it's great info for sure!

The 3/16" higher passenger rear has been noted for many years, so since I'm sitting at that exact difference I'd say I'm spot on there. And my fronts are even to a 32nd (until my next measurement).

[eeyang92]

Originally Posted by VisualEcho

And another shot from the front. Doesn't look as perfect here. Seems it changes depending on the lighting.

Damn, those ferric grey 437m's look amazing.

Originally Posted by VisualEcho

You're a bit late to this party, but it's great info for sure!

The 3/16" higher passenger rear has been noted for many years, so since I'm sitting at that exact difference I'd say I'm spot on there. And my fronts are even to a 32nd (until my next measurement).

Wait, this is a thing? I thought it was just something with my suspension.

[eeyang92]

Btw, for my street settings, I run Rebound 15o and Compression 12o all around. I found that this works extremely well on the street - it's not too floaty and hitting dips doesn't kill me. Every time I swap it back to my track settings it feels like I can feel every pebble on the street lol.

[VisualEcho]

Originally Posted by eeyang92

Damn, those ferric grey 437m's look amazing.

Thanks man. Hard to capture them in pictures, really. The camera gets confused trying to balance the darker body with the lighter wheels, so it ends up over-exposing the wheels to bring out the shadows in the body. It's frustrating because I have to do multiple exposures to fix the issue...every time. In real life they are much more subtle, and utterly fantastic. Everyone that sees them in real life says they are a major upgrade.

Originally Posted by eeyang92

Wait, this is a thing? I thought it was just something with my suspension.

Yup, it's a thing, and apparently for quite some time now.

Originally Posted by eeyang92

Btw, for my street settings, I run Rebound 15o and Compression 12o all around. I found that this works extremely well on the street - it's not too floaty and hitting dips doesn't kill me. Every time I swap it back to my track settings it feels like I can feel every pebble on the street lol.

Thanks for the info. I went with 1 click softer on everything and it feels great on the street (if a bit bouncy), but I'll experiment for sure, so thanks for your settings info!

[Wei718]

Originally Posted by VisualEcho

OK, so this is a tale of 3 nuts, and 10 bolts.

The first picture shows 3 nuts.

The middle one is what came on the top of my front, and rear struts.

I was advised to buy 2 of the left one, which is the same, but shorter, but had no where to put them.

The nut on the far right came lightly screwed to the top of my used M Performance suspension, but hadn't been used.



I ended up using the 2 new bolts (middle) on the front struts, and re-using the old nuts on the rears. Not sure if that's right, but it is what it is.

Anybody got any ideas on this one?

I just finished installing mine. For the life of me i couldn’t get the new rear top mount nut onto the shock. I think you should just bypass that if you’re planning on putting a new one onto your rear.

[VisualEcho]

Originally Posted by Wei718

I just finished installing mine. For the life of me i couldn’t get the new rear top mount nut onto the shock. I think you should just bypass that if you’re planning on putting a new one onto your rear.

Not sure what you mean by new rear top-mount nut.

It's confirmed now that the front and rear top nuts are the same, they are the tall 12-point nuts, which is the middle one. Which one are you speaking of?

[VisualEcho]

Got my alignment today, and it was somewhat interesting. I know I was trying to get back to -1.5° after the drop, but the tech said the bolt had run out of adjustment.

[Wei718]

Originally Posted by VisualEcho

Not sure what you mean by new rear top-mount nut.

It's confirmed now that the front and rear top nuts are the same, they are the tall 12-point nuts, which is the middle one. Which one are you speaking of?

It’s definitely different in terms of the size, the smaller one is on the rear the larger one is on the front.

What I meant was I could not fit the new smaller one onto my rear strut, it just would not go in so I reused my original nut. However the new 12pt nut for the front fits perfectly fine.

Here’s how it’s sitting. It’s low enough for me.

[VisualEcho]

Originally Posted by Wei718

It’s definitely different in terms of the size, the smaller one is on the rear the larger one is on the front.

What I meant was I could not fit the new smaller one onto my rear strut, it just would not go in so I reused my original nut. However the new 12pt nut for the front fits perfectly fine.

Here’s how it’s sitting. It’s low enough for me.

So your OEM top nuts were the same front to rear as well?

Your car looks fantastic, great finish on those wheels sir!!!

[M Fifty]

Ah - I remember this one: The hex nuts that come with the kit didn't leave enough clearance to fit a socket over them and still fit within the recess on the upper mounting for the rear damper. The BMW 12pt nut as mentioned is smaller diameter leaving space to fit a socket.

[Wei718]

Originally Posted by VisualEcho

So your OEM top nuts were the same front to rear as well?

Your car looks fantastic, great finish on those wheels sir!!!

Hard to see but the lip of the nut would not go past where it needs the strut threading.

[Bee Pee]

Originally Posted by VisualEcho

Got my alignment today, and it was somewhat interesting. I know I was trying to get back to -1.5° after the drop, but the tech said the bolt had run out of adjustment.

You need more camber upfront 😉

[VisualEcho]

Originally Posted by Bee Pee

You need more camber upfront ��

Haha, right...

Honestly, camber differences front to rear bug the shit out of me. On my Lotus I have them matched (easy to do, shims) @ -2.2°.

I think it's close enough on the M to pass.

On a side note, my drop came out an 8th lower on the passenger side than the driver's side, but I suppose that's fine because when I get in the car it'll maybe even out a bit.

The rear passengers side is still higher, like it was, but only 2/16 instead of 1/16, so that's good. If were going to track the car it'd be front camber plates, and corner balanced, but I don't see a need on a street car.

[ASAP]

Any updates on driving experience?

[VisualEcho]

Originally Posted by ASAP

Any updates on driving experience?

It's absolutely fantastic. Just a bit more bounce than stock (due to the stiffer springs). Less crash, less noise, just wonderful.

[VisualEcho]

So hard to capture this drop, which IMO is perfect IRL. I think the crown of the tire is what really helps it. Had I fitted the car with 275/295 for a flatter sidewall it just wouldn't have worked as well to my eye (at this height).