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      08-31-2020, 02:29 PM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M Fifty View Post
ECS Tuning actually sell the official BMW tool for use on the standard nut - but it costs more.

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...302360213~oeb/
Crazy, basically double the schwaben price (which is good quality IMO)
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      08-31-2020, 03:46 PM   #68
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As with everything else, others may sell for less (market dependent)
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      08-31-2020, 06:10 PM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kankles View Post
I know this is an older post but in case anyone else is curious. The stock 14x1.5 (ID) top nut is an 18mm (OD) and a schwaben tool is super helpful in removing.

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben...3046sch01a-01/

A lot of aftermarket (KW) use a 14x1.5 (ID) nylock style nut that has a 22mm (OD). For these a 22mm O2 sensor socket works really good.

TEKTON 47749 3/8-Inch Drive by 7/8-Inch (22 mm) Offset Oxygen Sensor Socket https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GMN4D1Q..._VIptFbHQHRK4E
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kankles View Post
Crazy, basically double the schwaben price (which is good quality IMO)
For the same price as the shwaben thing, you can just buy the pass through spline socket set (Amazon: Crescent X6 is what I bought). Find a thin walled 10mm 1/4" drive and it'll fit up the middle. I had the schwaben and socket set and found the sockets much easier (and you can use them for other things instead of a one off!).
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      09-01-2020, 12:14 AM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mosely View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kankles View Post
I know this is an older post but in case anyone else is curious. The stock 14x1.5 (ID) top nut is an 18mm (OD) and a schwaben tool is super helpful in removing.

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben...3046sch01a-01/

A lot of aftermarket (KW) use a 14x1.5 (ID) nylock style nut that has a 22mm (OD). For these a 22mm O2 sensor socket works really good.

TEKTON 47749 3/8-Inch Drive by 7/8-Inch (22 mm) Offset Oxygen Sensor Socket https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GMN4D1Q..._VIptFbHQHRK4E
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kankles View Post
Crazy, basically double the schwaben price (which is good quality IMO)
For the same price as the shwaben thing, you can just buy the pass through spline socket set (Amazon: Crescent X6 is what I bought). Find a thin walled 10mm 1/4" drive and it'll fit up the middle. I had the schwaben and socket set and found the sockets much easier (and you can use them for other things instead of a one off!).
Good call on the pass through set. I was eyeing these but I already had the other sockets.

Here's a set that includes an 18 and 22mm.


Channellock 39100 Ultra Access Socket Set, 16 Piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PB39K9I..._KGDtFbGD2S616
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      09-01-2020, 10:34 AM   #71
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For the 10mm hex shaft, the brake bleeder wrench works perfectly.
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      09-01-2020, 03:33 PM   #72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kankles View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mosely View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kankles View Post
I know this is an older post but in case anyone else is curious. The stock 14x1.5 (ID) top nut is an 18mm (OD) and a schwaben tool is super helpful in removing.

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben...3046sch01a-01/

A lot of aftermarket (KW) use a 14x1.5 (ID) nylock style nut that has a 22mm (OD). For these a 22mm O2 sensor socket works really good.

TEKTON 47749 3/8-Inch Drive by 7/8-Inch (22 mm) Offset Oxygen Sensor Socket https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GMN4D1Q..._VIptFbHQHRK4E
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kankles View Post
Crazy, basically double the schwaben price (which is good quality IMO)
For the same price as the shwaben thing, you can just buy the pass through spline socket set (Amazon: Crescent X6 is what I bought). Find a thin walled 10mm 1/4" drive and it'll fit up the middle. I had the schwaben and socket set and found the sockets much easier (and you can use them for other things instead of a one off!).
Good call on the pass through set. I was eyeing these but I already had the other sockets.

Here's a set that includes an 18 and 22mm.


Channellock 39100 Ultra Access Socket Set, 16 Piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PB39K9I..._KGDtFbGD2S616
Just ordered that Chanellock set for when I get round to fitting my V3s
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      09-02-2020, 07:58 AM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeF87LCI View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kankles View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mosely View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kankles View Post
I know this is an older post but in case anyone else is curious. The stock 14x1.5 (ID) top nut is an 18mm (OD) and a schwaben tool is super helpful in removing.

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben...3046sch01a-01/

A lot of aftermarket (KW) use a 14x1.5 (ID) nylock style nut that has a 22mm (OD). For these a 22mm O2 sensor socket works really good.

TEKTON 47749 3/8-Inch Drive by 7/8-Inch (22 mm) Offset Oxygen Sensor Socket https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GMN4D1Q..._VIptFbHQHRK4E
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kankles View Post
Crazy, basically double the schwaben price (which is good quality IMO)
For the same price as the shwaben thing, you can just buy the pass through spline socket set (Amazon: Crescent X6 is what I bought). Find a thin walled 10mm 1/4" drive and it'll fit up the middle. I had the schwaben and socket set and found the sockets much easier (and you can use them for other things instead of a one off!).
Good call on the pass through set. I was eyeing these but I already had the other sockets.

Here's a set that includes an 18 and 22mm.


Channellock 39100 Ultra Access Socket Set, 16 Piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PB39K9I..._KGDtFbGD2S616
Just ordered that Chanellock set for when I get round to fitting my V3s
Let us know how it turns out
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      09-02-2020, 12:37 PM   #74
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On cars with a slightly less unusual nut, I have used a large 1/2" drive spark plus spanner with the rubber cup removed and a selection of 3/8" to 1/4" extensions and sockets.

Once again, on the stock strut tops - when torquing up the nut - once it's seated (for which you do need both the 'outer' and 'inner' sockets), you can just use the the torque wrench on the nut without having to hold the shaft.

HTH
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      09-02-2020, 12:38 PM   #75
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Obvs. this does not apply when using camber plates fitted with ball races.
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      09-02-2020, 03:52 PM   #76
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I went ahead and used a pass through, worked perfectly for me.
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      09-04-2020, 01:24 PM   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kankles View Post
:
Let us know how it turns out
[/QUOTE]
If anyone needs a cheap pass thru set can recommend that one above.
Shipped in 4 days US to UK, looks like it'll do the job just fine feels pretty solid in hand (I have plenty of snap-on tools for work) comes in handy case too.
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      09-13-2020, 01:58 PM   #78
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Fitted my KW's today, think they still require some adjustment. Just wanted to see what ride height others have gone with. Mines probably a bit too low to be practical at the moment.

About 377mm front
And 386mm rear

That has actually settled slightly measured 385 and 390 when first installed.
Not actually heard any rubbing as of yet and I'm running 255/275 on 437m

Cheers
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      09-13-2020, 03:26 PM   #79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeF87LCI View Post
Fitted my KW's today, think they still require some adjustment. Just wanted to see what ride height others have gone with. Mines probably a bit too low to be practical at the moment.

About 377mm front
And 386mm rear

That has actually settled slightly measured 385 and 390 when first installed.
Not actually heard any rubbing as of yet and I'm running 255/275 on 437m

Cheers
Post a picture! I want to see how low you are sitting.
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      09-13-2020, 04:04 PM   #80
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Here's a few quick phone pictures
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      09-13-2020, 08:30 PM   #81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeF87LCI View Post
Here's a few quick phone pictures
5 to 10mm difference front to back seems about what to shoot for. Ride height is a bit subjective. You're probably about 10mm lower than mine sits. Not sure where you measured from, but the alignment rack put mine at 600 front, 607 rear.
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      09-14-2020, 02:27 AM   #82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by detroitm2 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeF87LCI View Post
Here's a few quick phone pictures
5 to 10mm difference front to back seems about what to shoot for. Ride height is a bit subjective. You're probably about 10mm lower than mine sits. Not sure where you measured from, but the alignment rack put mine at 600 front, 607 rear.
I measured from bottom of the rim to the edge of the wheel arch. Like I say, it's already settled a fair bit so could do with lifting it 10-15mm. Heard a slight little chafe on front arch liner this morning too
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      09-14-2020, 01:07 PM   #83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeF87LCI View Post
I measured from bottom of the rim to the edge of the wheel arch. Like I say, it's already settled a fair bit so could do with lifting it 10-15mm. Heard a slight little chafe on front arch liner this morning too
So, just out of curiosity, how did you come up with "About 377mm front. And 386mm rear", if you measured "from bottom of the rim to the edge of the wheel arch"?

The diameter of the wheel should mean the measurement is the thick end of 600mm not 400mm.
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      09-14-2020, 02:53 PM   #84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M Fifty View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeF87LCI View Post
I measured from bottom of the rim to the edge of the wheel arch. Like I say, it's already settled a fair bit so could do with lifting it 10-15mm. Heard a slight little chafe on front arch liner this morning too
So, just out of curiosity, how did you come up with "About 377mm front. And 386mm rear", if you measured "from bottom of the rim to the edge of the wheel arch"?

The diameter of the wheel should mean the measurement is the thick end of 600mm not 400mm.
Ahh shit my bad! The should be 5xx not 3xx
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      09-14-2020, 03:58 PM   #85
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeF87LCI View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by M Fifty View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeF87LCI View Post
I measured from bottom of the rim to the edge of the wheel arch. Like I say, it's already settled a fair bit so could do with lifting it 10-15mm. Heard a slight little chafe on front arch liner this morning too
So, just out of curiosity, how did you come up with "About 377mm front. And 386mm rear", if you measured "from bottom of the rim to the edge of the wheel arch"?

The diameter of the wheel should mean the measurement is the thick end of 600mm not 400mm.
Ahh shit my bad! The should be 5xx not 3xx
In that case, you're about 20mm lower than I am
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      09-17-2020, 11:26 PM   #86
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeF87LCI View Post
Fitted my KW's today, think they still require some adjustment. Just wanted to see what ride height others have gone with. Mines probably a bit too low to be practical at the moment.

About 377mm front
And 386mm rear

That has actually settled slightly measured 385 and 390 when first installed.
Not actually heard any rubbing as of yet and I'm running 255/275 on 437m

Cheers
Looks good! I'm at max ride height as my front tires are aggressive (265/35 RSR on 437M).

I will try to install the linear springs this weekend as they've just arrived from KW
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      09-18-2020, 02:14 AM   #87
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I've since raised mine. Didn't like how low it'd gone, front tires were starting to tuck under the arch. It should be around 595mm mark, need to re measure.

Sits way better now...
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      09-19-2020, 11:26 AM   #88
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KW V3 rear height adjustment: While installing linear springs today we also drilled some holes into the upper rear spring mount so we can use a two-prong tool to hold it into place while you raise/lower the ring/spring. Works great. (This is a tool for installing/removing discs on a Makita cordless grinder but could use many other tools to accomplish this.)

Thanks Megator and Nico
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