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      11-09-2021, 11:56 PM   #1
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As many of you know, I currently own a BMW M2 with a big turbo setup and because of this, I would like to keep up with maintenance as best as possible. I have made a list of products that I plan to use and was wondering if I could get some opinions on some of them. I heard some are not necessary, but I rather keep things running as smooth as possible, being better safe than sorry.

As for how often I plan to use these products:

I will use the Molygen oil change kit every 5,000 miles with Pro-Line engine flush

Jectron fuel injection cleaner, fuel cleaner system cleaner, and valve clean every 3,000 miles

Speed Tec gasoline additive after every 3-5 full tanks of gas used, 3,000 miles minimum (filled with 7 gallons of fuel left in system)

If you guys have any suggestions / recommendations, please let me know !

Thanks, Shane
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      11-10-2021, 12:07 AM   #2
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update: CERA TEC not needed for Molygen oil
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      11-10-2021, 08:06 AM   #3
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No, and HELL NO!
You don't need additives in oil. Oil already has carefully balanced additives. And if you are really that obsessed with health of your engine, use better oils. Liqui Moly is average at best product.
No additives for gas. Gas already has enough additives!
Good oil, Costco gas, and hit the road!
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      11-10-2021, 10:11 AM   #4
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Don't use any of that garbage. Switch to either Motul or PP oil, change it every 5k, and call it a day.
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      11-11-2021, 12:59 AM   #5
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You guys beat me to it lol. I was gonna write that's all garbage and a huge money waste.


If you want, I always run fuel system cleaner (the bmw stuff is chevron techron, but now they might have changed it so the small concentrated bottles might not be techron anymore) right before an oil change since I run ethanol based fuels and I want to ensure there isn't any gum or deposit build up.
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      11-11-2021, 12:36 PM   #6
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I was wondering what he might be doing to his engine that he needed to add that much Snake Oil?

I suppose using gas that's a blend of varnish and sulphur - as it was cheap - might make some of it necessary...
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      11-11-2021, 11:06 PM   #7
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I wonder if it is safe to use engine flush? As there is oil cooler, what will the remaining oil flush do to the engine?
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      11-12-2021, 12:12 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by K_C_ View Post
I wonder if it is safe to use engine flush? As there is oil cooler, what will the remaining oil flush do to the engine?
No do not use engine flush.

The left over oil in the loop is inevitable, hence why you should always let your car cool down before shutting it off (don't drive it hard before you know you're going to park and let it idle for a min or two before shutting it off) so the oil doesn't coke up from being in hot engine components like the turbo, and why you should do frequent oil changes. Because you don't want high mileage oil left over in the loop, but low mileage used oil will be fine since it would only be a fraction of the fresh oil you put in (I think the oil cooler loop holds 1-2 L of oil most likely ~1.3L).
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      11-12-2021, 12:26 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F87source View Post
No do not use engine flush.

The left over oil in the loop is inevitable, hence why you should always let your car cool down before shutting it off (don't drive it hard before you know you're going to park and let it idle for a min or two before shutting it off) so the oil doesn't coke up from being in hot engine components like the turbo, and why you should do frequent oil changes. Because you don't want high mileage oil left over in the loop, but low mileage used oil will be fine since it would only be a fraction of the fresh oil you put in (I think the oil cooler loop holds 1-2 L of oil most likely ~1.3L).
Exactly as what I thought too. I used to use engine flush for my old Honda Civic (B16A engine) before but I also stopped from using after an engine oil cooler was installed.
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      11-12-2021, 04:49 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by PackPride85 View Post
Don't use any of that garbage. Switch to either Motul or PP oil, change it every 5k, and call it a day.
which oil do you prefer better ?
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      11-12-2021, 04:50 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by edycol View Post
No, and HELL NO!
You don't need additives in oil. Oil already has carefully balanced additives. And if you are really that obsessed with health of your engine, use better oils. Liqui Moly is average at best product.
No additives for gas. Gas already has enough additives!
Good oil, Costco gas, and hit the road!
okay yea that's what I thought too. what oils do you recommend as the best ?
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      11-12-2021, 04:53 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M Fifty View Post
I was wondering what he might be doing to his engine that he needed to add that much Snake Oil?

I suppose using gas that's a blend of varnish and sulphur - as it was cheap - might make some of it necessary...
I'm on 93 pump lol
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      11-12-2021, 05:50 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shaneguags View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by edycol View Post
No, and HELL NO!
You don't need additives in oil. Oil already has carefully balanced additives. And if you are really that obsessed with health of your engine, use better oils. Liqui Moly is average at best product.
No additives for gas. Gas already has enough additives!
Good oil, Costco gas, and hit the road!
okay yea that's what I thought too. what oils do you recommend as the best ?
I guess you are out of warranty ? Go Castrol Edge 0W40 from your local Wal Mart and change it every 5k. Do UOA but order TBN and TAN analysis. I will read it for you, just post it here.
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      11-15-2021, 03:19 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edycol View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by shaneguags View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by edycol View Post
No, and HELL NO!
You don't need additives in oil. Oil already has carefully balanced additives. And if you are really that obsessed with health of your engine, use better oils. Liqui Moly is average at best product.
No additives for gas. Gas already has enough additives!
Good oil, Costco gas, and hit the road!
okay yea that's what I thought too. what oils do you recommend as the best ?
I guess you are out of warranty ? Go Castrol Edge 0W40 from your local Wal Mart and change it every 5k. Do UOA but order TBN and TAN analysis. I will read it for you, just post it here.
I have never done those analysis tho but yea I was told all oils are nearly the same. my shop told me to use liqui moly so I figured it was the best after seeing the reviews on it
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      11-15-2021, 03:29 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shaneguags View Post
I have never done those analysis tho but yea I was told all oils are nearly the same. my shop told me to use liqui moly so I figured it was the best after seeing the reviews on it
Your shop likely told you that because they were partnered with liquimoly, or they sell that stuff and recommend it because margins are higher so they get more money even though it isn't the best oil.


Just like with radar detectors, alot of pro installers recommend escort products because they have higher margins so they make more money not because they are actually the best. The best imo would be radenso, sublime range and good filtering - and when they release their AI based radar detector there will be no competition.
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      11-15-2021, 03:37 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F87source View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by shaneguags View Post
I have never done those analysis tho but yea I was told all oils are nearly the same. my shop told me to use liqui moly so I figured it was the best after seeing the reviews on it
Your shop likely told you that because they were partnered with liquimoly, or they sell that stuff and recommend it because margins are higher so they get more money even though it isn't the best oil.


Just like with radar detectors, alot of pro installers recommend escort products because they have higher margins so they make more money not because they are actually the best. The best imo would be radenso, sublime range and good filtering - and when they release their AI based radar detector there will be no competition.
ah yea I think they actually are partnered with liqui moly thinking about it😂 my main question is why would additives make the car less reliable ?
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      11-15-2021, 03:46 PM   #17
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ah yea I think they actually are partnered with liqui moly thinking about it�� my main question is why would additives make the car less reliable ?
Alot of shops are partnered with LM, then they run the LM flag in their shops. Depends on what additives, if it is engine strip or flush it could wash away lubrication or coatings on the metal causing more wear, bmw explicitly says in ISTA do not use additives or flushes. Also too much additives like metal additives could cause cat poisioning and kill your catalytic converter early, or cause more wear.

Otherwise oil has everything the engine could want, additional additives is just a waste of money.
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      11-15-2021, 04:04 PM   #18
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Quote:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shaneguags View Post
ah yea I think they actually are partnered with liqui moly thinking about it�� my main question is why would additives make the car less reliable ?
Alot of shops are partnered with LM, then they run the LM flag in their shops. Depends on what additives, if it is engine strip or flush it could wash away lubrication or coatings on the metal causing more wear, bmw explicitly says in ISTA do not use additives or flushes. Also too much additives like metal additives could cause cat poisioning and kill your catalytic converter early, or cause more wear.

Otherwise oil has everything the engine could want, additional additives is just a waste of money.
ah okay yea you make a good point with the lubricants, I'll stay away from the additives then. you said castrol the best ? someone else recommending motul 🤔
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      11-15-2021, 04:22 PM   #19
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ah okay yea you make a good point with the lubricants, I'll stay away from the additives then. you said castrol the best ? someone else recommending motul 🤔
Castrol is really good, motul xcess gen 2 5w40 is really good as well, pennzoil platnium euro 5w40 (quaker state euro 5w40 same oil) is also really good too.

TBH IMO the differences between these oils are pretty small, and they all pass extremely stringent testing by the euro OEM's. So honestly pick the oil that is cheapest and easiest to get in your area and don't look back. Me personally I sue pennzoil, I know that quakerstate in the USA is dirt cheap at walmart so that's a good option. Castrol is probably dirt cheap at walmart too, motul probably not.
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      11-15-2021, 08:15 PM   #20
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So F87source is in Canada and doesn't have access to some oils as we do and as cheap as we do.
First of all, take into consideration that BMW updated LL01 and LL04 specifications in 2018. BMW outright banned 0WXX oils in those approvals as they tend to either have more "true" synthetics and those cheaper ones have a lot of polymers. That means they will oxidize more (tru synthetics) or shear more (polymers).
However, that was done to boost OCI in B generation engines. So it doesn't affect N/S55 engines.
You can use 0W30 or 0W40 oils with confidence in M2 and they are cheap here.
How they stack against other oils? IMO Castrol Edge 0W30 (expensive on Amazon) and 0W40 (thicker brother of 0W30, super cheap in Wal mart) are best oils for BMW engines. From UOA I have seen they just like that oil. They are tru synthetics and have extremely low pour point and very healthy HTHS.
Now reason why all oils are not same is that approvals set up minimum requirements. True, those are stringent requirements, but there are good and REALLY good oils and then REALLY good oils but not quite right for certain applications.
So I will give you 3 examples:
Castrol Edge 5W40 is mediocre representative of Edge family. NOTHING special, basically bare minimum Castrol is getting away with. Liqui Moly products are in this category.
Castrol 0W30 and 0W40 are top of the line Castrol products. Especially 0W30. That was only oil I am aware that had for quite some time Porsche A40 approval but was 30 grade. Porsche later made some tweaks to approvals that eliminated this Castrol. It is darling of Euro enthusiasts since beginning of 2000's. Castrol Edge 0W40 is thicker brother of 0W30. I use it on track in my N52. Exceptional results.
Now third oil is Mobil1 0W40FS. Track capable oil like Castrol 0W40. Lots of ZDDP, and gentlemen's set of base stocks. But SAPS level (sulfated ash and phosphorus) is ridiculously high. If you had port injection engine like I do, no worries. But DI engines really don't like a lot of SAPS as SAPS is what carbon build up is made of. So excellent oil, just not for your application.

Now approved LL01 oils! Which one? As F87 mentioned Pennzoil Platinum Euro 5W40 is very good choice mostly bcs. GTL base stock, high HTHS, low Noack wtc. Very low Zinc so not as best option on track but best option to save timing chain guides in N20 as guides don't like Zinc.
Motul X-Cess 5W40 GEN2 is another very sophisticated oil. Great HTHS, good amount of ZDDP. But IMO, both of these are just notch below Castrol Edge 0W30/40 and Mobil1 0W40.
Now F87 and I discussed this a lot. He is in Canada and these 0WXX oils are fairly expensive, not readily available.
Here is my UOA of Castrol Edge 0W40 that has 47 laps at High Plains Raceway. To the righ is previous analysis of Castrol Edge 0W30 I used in winter months. No track. As you can see 0W40 did better although it was used on track. This UOA is as good as it gets.
So hopefully you have enough info. Ask if you need more information.
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      05-08-2023, 01:57 AM   #21
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So hopefully you have enough info. Ask if you need more information.
Anything changes when running Emix or full E85?
Street daily, canyon runs.
rarely tracking
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