[SEAT TIME RULES]

Originally Posted by peterbigblock

Most of what I’ve read is that high-flow or low-restriction filters don’t do as good a job filtering the air as an OEM paper filter. They also don’t flow as well as OEM paper once they start to get dirty. And they can deposit oil on the MAF sensor, leading to problems. We use them in race cars because they are cleaned after every race and do flow better at high RPMs where race cars run. For a daily driver, though, it’s a sketchy way to get maybe a few HP. After all, you’re filtering the intake air for a reason. So using an effective filter is best, even if you’re giving up a couple peak HP under ideal conditions. My two cents.

I agree with everything you said until you start modifying the car and your running more boost. If my car was stock I'd leave the OEM's in and take out the Charcoal elements.

I believe in Dry Reusable filters. which I clean every 10K.

Almost all the OEM intakes on Sports cars are optimized now anyways and the HP gains are all very shakey..

[GmizM2c]

Originally Posted by SEAT TIME RULES

I agree with everything you said until you start modifying the car and your running more boost. If my car was stock I'd leave the OEM's in and take out the Charcoal elements.

I believe in Dry Reusable filters. which I clean every 10K.

Almost all the OEM intakes on Sports cars are optimized now anyways and the HP gains are all very shakey..

I tried dry inserts, lost throttle response. Just removed charcoal media and the butt Dyno gains are real

[Saintjah]

I had the AFE pro5r and I didnt even notice any differenc. The only variable I did observe was increased silicon levels on routine UOA tests.