10-12-2021, 10:58 AM | #309 |
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Looked through this thread and couldn't find a lot of feedback either way. What's the typical delta between the DCT and manual? From what I can tell, the fastest M2s at Nats were manuals, but I can't absolutely say that.
Sold my 128i and am hunting for a M2 to use in BS. Had a manual lined up, but the PPI was a disaster and the owner didn't want to fix or reduce the price. |
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10-12-2021, 01:09 PM | #310 | |
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10-12-2021, 03:44 PM | #311 | |
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Hence, depending on how good you are managing a launch, you can hook the tires easier with a longer 1st gear in the 6MT in addition to being able to manage the rate of weight transfer to the rear with the clutch engagement. Secondly, the DCT carries 55lb weight penalty everywhere, so it's power/weight ratio is 1.5% less than the 6MT.
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10-12-2021, 09:07 PM | #312 |
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It's hard to determine conclusively because the difference, if there is one, is pretty small. 6MT tends to be a bit more popular because of the lighter weight and easier ProSolo launch, but the M2 that won nationals this year was a DCT.
I think it's basically a wash. |
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10-14-2021, 09:13 AM | #313 | |
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As for launching any manual I always was a bit conservative on launches. Consistency wins almost every time. Again a DCT is more consistent. An autocross run is like sailboat racing. The person that wins is the one that makes the fewest mistakes. There are fewer variables with a DCT than a 6spd. I'm a 6 speed fan, but on a Solo 2 course I'd opt for a DCT. YMMV, Cheers, Steve Former EVO School Instructor
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10-15-2021, 09:37 AM | #314 | |
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Thanks, that makes a lot of sense. I've always autocrossed manual cars and have always shifted to second and let it be. For local courses, that's fine, but it's bit me on bigger/faster national-style courses. Interesting that the winning BS car was a OG M2 with the DCT. Now I'll just need to research maintenance. Lots of help, appreciate it greatly. |
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10-19-2021, 03:50 PM | #315 | |
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10-23-2021, 06:26 PM | #316 |
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Does anyone know of any street class legal shocks for the m2? I reached out to MCS and they replied that they don't and have no intention of making BS legal shocks for the m2.
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10-28-2021, 08:14 PM | #317 |
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There are very few street-class legal offerings. The only off-the-shelf option that I know of is the Bilstein HD shock. I don't personally know of anyone who's using them. They probably provide a little more rebound, but they tend to slightly raise the ride height on most vehicles (which negatively affects camber), they're more of a truck shock.
I know several people who run MCS, but the shocks have to be modified to make them street-class legal. I know ProPartsUSA will order MCS shocks and then make them street-class legal for you, but they also revalve them to be very stiff. Their philosophy is to control roll under street class rules by adding a ton of compression and rebound. It kind of works and some people do really well with that kind of setup, but others (including myself) have tried it and don't like it. I'm still running on stock shocks, as are many (most?) others. A high end shock is definitely an improvement, but unless you're willing to go through all of the cost and work to make a race shock legal, there's not really any better option than stock. Unlike older BMW's, the stock shocks on this car are valved kinda OK for autocross and track duty (at least with the stock spring rate). There's a reason Bilstein, Koni, etc. haven't bothered to market inexpensive off-the-shelf shocks for the car. |
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11-09-2021, 08:41 PM | #318 | |
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All in, you'd be looking at roughly $650: https://store.redshiftmotorsports.co...ompdampers.htm |
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11-13-2021, 06:07 AM | #319 | |
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11-22-2021, 03:41 PM | #320 |
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In the event anyone is looking, the TCKline shocks from the coilover kit are legal. Rears are direct bolt on, fronts they Charge 120 per shock to make stock springs work.
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11-26-2021, 10:10 AM | #321 |
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Do you know if the modification to the front shocks will allow you to run their coilver kit as well as stock springs or can you only run stock springs or lowering springs with similar perch requirements going forward?
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11-26-2021, 11:02 PM | #322 | |
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The improved handling from compression increase unfortunately does come at the expense of a harsher street ride. If that's a concern, I wouldn't hesitate to valve these a bit softer as we never ran them anywhere near full stiff except at Lincoln airpark which is a high grip surface. One other thing to consider with the MCS/ProPartsUSA setup is the slightly different end link mount location on the strut. I had custom length Ground Control endlinks built for this since the Dinan end links were too long. Those will come with the setup. |
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01-03-2022, 07:33 AM | #323 |
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Figure I would update this post with my solution to a 100 percent legal MCS shock. You need to either cut your stock perches, or find some from a member that did the sleeved lowering kit. Once you acquire the stock perches the modifications are relatively simple, cut the bottom of the perch level, removing the endlink tab completely, and clamp it on the mcs with collars top and bottom. You can line the mcs shock where the stock perch will sit with a 12 inch inner bicycle tube to ensure a tight fit and no wiggle prior to clamping, also assures the perch is centered on the shock. Once you center and clock everything, measure from the hub to the top of the perch on your stock shock, and set the MCS to be the same. From memory this equaled about 7 and 1/4 inches on my car. Let me know if you guys have any questions.
Please note, that current offerings are not legal and you can be protested if someone wants to go that route. Flipping the spring upside down is not legal, running supra perches is also not legal. Unless you want to have a spring perch made, this seems like the easiest option that retains correct orientation of the spring, includes isolators and clocks everything the same as factory. Let me know if you have any questions. |
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01-12-2022, 03:24 PM | #324 |
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Another thing I am trying to maximize tire size and choice on a m2c:
19x9 Et30 SM-10 with 7.5mm spacer running 275/30/19 660s 18x10 ET33 SM-10 with 295/35/18 Ao52s The diameter difference is essentially stock and everything fits well. I tested it with only 1.7 degree of camber in the rear and it doesn't rub autocrossing, however it did slightly rub the rear fender liner on a massive dip at highway speeds. For 2022 I'm going to dial in 1.9 degrees and in the rear and that should solve it. |
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02-16-2022, 06:14 PM | #325 |
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As we get closer to the start of the season I'm starting to shop for tires. I'm not seeing anything new so far that is going to be of help. Will the consensus for the M2C still be the 275/30/19 front 275/35/19 rear RT660s?
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02-17-2022, 08:47 AM | #326 |
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I was on this setup last year at 30psi front/ 30-32psi rear depending on whether I wanted the rear to be looser. I'm running a Hotchkis front swaybar as well. Several OG M2s ran this set up or 295 square A052s on 18 wheels. For me the set up felt pretty good but i did find that I could get the rear to break loose fairly easy w/ throttle inputs. Maybe this is a function of the M2C having a bit more torque than the OG M2. This year I picked up another set of wheels and will be trying 255/275 Yokohama A052 staggered set up on those wheels. I'm interested to see how each set up compares to each other in the upcoming testing sessions in March.
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02-17-2022, 01:37 PM | #327 | |
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02-18-2022, 11:06 AM | #328 | |
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A052's are the fastest street tire on the market today, but they have soft sidewalls that easily overheat with excessive rollover. A heavier (all modern street cars except the Miata are heavy) FWD strut suspension vehicle like your Civic was likely murdering those sidewalls, which hurts performance and tire life. The RE-71R, in contrast had a much stiffer sidewall and held up better, despite being a slower compound. The M2 has much better front camber retention and better weight distribution than the Civic. With camber correction hubs I'm getting 65+ runs out of my front tires, which is decent for a street-class car and a good indication that I'm not overheating the tires too much, though I still heat up and wear faster on the outside. Lighter ST cars with even more camber are getting 100 runs. The top three tires right now are Yokohama A052, Falken RT660, and Nanking CR-S. The Falkens are more similar to RE-71R's with a somewhat stiff sidewall with good turn-in response and are the cheapest to run. However, they need a bit of heat in them to turn on and they just flat out don't work at some low-grip autocross sites like Fontana. A052's work from the first run and have insane grip, and they even work in the wet. However, they have a mushy feel and wear aggressively, on top of being the priciest to boot. I haven't tried Nanking's yet, but they are supposedly more similar to A052's at a cheaper cost. I know more folks are starting to try them with A052's having supply issues. I'm considering trying them next. They're only available through Phil's Tire Service. |
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03-07-2022, 07:51 AM | #329 | |
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03-07-2022, 10:20 AM | #330 | |
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