[edycol]

Originally Posted by chris719

After spending a long time following the S54, S65, and S85 bearing issues, I would say that any speculation about oil affecting the bearing wear is just that. People ran every oil you can imagine in those engines and they still had abnormal bearing wear. I think you really need to know the root cause, because it may not be helped or mitigated by higher HTHS.

Yep, I have seen his posts on BITOG .

Bcs. ultimately it is engine design, not oil. People were trying to find oil that can mitigate that issue, but you can do so much with oil. Many engine manufacturers try to mitigate some issues with thicker or thinner oil. But that goes so far, in the end it if there is design or material problem….
Problem with 0W30 is motive. Is it recommended for best protection or mpg? It is mpg, bcs. CAFE. There is nothing exceptional about that TPT 0W30, and I bet you that Mobil 5W30 Extended Performance I run in my minivan is more robust. Both are ACEA A5 except M1 5W30 is loaded with GTL and PAO, while BMW TPT 0W30 with return to Castrol is probably Group III.
And as new development, BMW introduced LL19 specification. More sophisticated version of LL04. Same like VW (VW511.00, Porsche C40) BMW figured that many high performance engines cannot do well on thin oils. Trend is toward thinner oils (0W16 and 0W8), but BMW, Porsche, MB are introducing new specifications for oils with HTHS above 3.5.
You mentioned timing chain. Golden rule: less zinc and heavy oil. If that is your concern go Pennzoil or Quaker State 5W40 with API SP specification.

[M Fifty]

Originally Posted by F87source

Yeah he's a great guy, glad he's on here too.

But yeah for street driving I don't really feel FE oils will cause problems, but if you track get a non FE oil to ensure your hths isn't affected.

So, noting that the OP explicitly states that he doesn't Track the car, maybe he doesn't need to worry?

[F87source]

Originally Posted by M Fifty

So, noting that the OP explicitly states that he doesn't Track the car, maybe he doesn't need to worry?

Well non FE oils will provide more protection so long term there likely still will be a different between LL01 vs LL01 FE, how much of a difference idk. Maybe the difference will be one engine going 300,000 km and the other going 250,000 km idk. But there is a benefit of going non - FE oils which were only optimized for fuel efficiency over max protection.


Idk if you're off warranty just buy some LL01 oil (preferably if it also has porsche a40 And MB 229.5) at WalMart and you should be good. Like edy said to me, if it's LL01 approved it has been through the battery of very stringent tests and the differences between oils like PPE and Castrol and motul are minute and in the range of enthusiasts. It's like picking between intakes, one might just flow a tiny bit more than the other. But overall very close together in terms of performance.

[edycol]

One thing that 0W30 LL01 FE is better at is extreme cold. Not cranking capability, but KV40 will be lower and in urban driving, if doing short trips in winter, LL01 FE is better choice. I think BMW was going after that as many BMW owners short trip their cars a lot. That is where LL01 FE has better protection as it will flow better while engine is warming up. If car is driven longer than 10 miles one direction, LL01 is better choice even in winter.

[Robimplicit]

[QUOTE=edycol;27617616]
If you can source Castrol Edge 0W30 for decent price (AAP has it on sale usually) get that. Otherwise in this order:
Castrol Edge 0W40
Pennzoil Platinum Euro 5W40
Valvoline 5W40
Quaker state 5W40
I don't think M1 0W40 is best option (or any ACEA A3 M1) for any direct injection engines due to very high SAPS.


I found data sheets for Castrol Edge 0W-30 A3/B4 and Castrol Edge 0W-40 A3/B4 from 2014. Both had BMW LL-01 and MB 229.5 approvals, among others. 0W-40 also had Porsche A40 approval. These days Castrol Edge 0W-40 seems to be more available and about half the price of 0W-30. I'm trying to decide whether to spend more on the 0W-30 for a 2018 M2 out of warranty that won't have track duty; lives in midwest city with summer highs mostly in 80s and low 90s; and will have OCI of about 5000 miles. Very willing to get the 0W-30 if it provide better protection. Would you recommend 0W-30 over 0W-40 given these circumstances?
Thanks.

[edycol]

[QUOTE=Robimplicit;28106214]

Originally Posted by edycol

If you can source Castrol Edge 0W30 for decent price (AAP has it on sale usually) get that. Otherwise in this order:
Castrol Edge 0W40
Pennzoil Platinum Euro 5W40
Valvoline 5W40
Quaker state 5W40
I don't think M1 0W40 is best option (or any ACEA A3 M1) for any direct injection engines due to very high SAPS.


I found data sheets for Castrol Edge 0W-30 A3/B4 and Castrol Edge 0W-40 A3/B4 from 2014. Both had BMW LL-01 and MB 229.5 approvals, among others. 0W-40 also had Porsche A40 approval. These days Castrol Edge 0W-40 seems to be more available and about half the price of 0W-30. I'm trying to decide whether to spend more on the 0W-30 for a 2018 M2 out of warranty that won't have track duty; lives in midwest city with summer highs mostly in 80s and low 90s; and will have OCI of about 5000 miles. Very willing to get the 0W-30 if it provide better protection. Would you recommend 0W-30 over 0W-40 given these circumstances?
Thanks.

It is tough call.
I have weak spot for 0W30 so I would always go that if I had to choose. They are basically same oils, but 0W30 has less viscosity improvers and lower Noack which means less waste.
I run in the winter 0W30 in my N52. Engine just loves that oil. Nice sound, revs better, no any kind of unusual noises even though I started car as low as -38.