[BarrettDB]

Although I've seen some OLD posts related to TSW Rotary Forged wheels, I haven't seen anything that is recent. As such, I'd be delighted to get some feedback...

TSW makes a few wheels that fit the current F87 M2 Competition that are "Rotary Forged." I haven't seen them in person, but the designs are acceptable, and may be a good alternative to the 788M style wheel.

They weigh between 20 and 21 pounds (depending on size), so a few pounds more than some other forged wheels, but a lot less than cast wheels.

They make a new wheel that is very attractive, called the Neptune, that is Rotary Forged (and 20lbs each). There are a few others worth considering as well, including the Bathurst, and the Watkins (a true directional wheel). Some of these are available in the same sizing configurations as the OE wheel, but a few, including the Neptune are available as either 19 x 8.5 (front) and 19 x 9.5 (read) OR as 10 x 9 (front) and 20 x 10 (rear).

Thoughts anyone?

[MASHCT]

Check out Beyern, too - TSW brand specifically for BMWs. The Ritz is sharp one.

[BarrettDB]

You’re right! Nice indeed. Thanks!

[Maynard]

Originally Posted by BarrettDB

Although I've seen some OLD posts related to TSW Rotary Forged wheels, I haven't seen anything that is recent. As such, I'd be delighted to get some feedback...

TSW makes a few wheels that fit the current F87 M2 Competition that are "Rotary Forged." I haven't seen them in person, but the designs are acceptable, and may be a good alternative to the 788M style wheel.

They weigh between 20 and 21 pounds (depending on size), so a few pounds more than some other forged wheels, but a lot less than cast wheels.

They make a new wheel that is very attractive, called the Neptune, that is Rotary Forged (and 20lbs each). There are a few others worth considering as well, including the Bathurst, and the Watkins (a true directional wheel). Some of these are available in the same sizing configurations as the OE wheel, but a few, including the Neptune are available as either 19 x 8.5 (front) and 19 x 9.5 (read) OR as 10 x 9 (front) and 20 x 10 (rear).

Thoughts anyone?

Rotary forged is certainly nothing new, I don't think even this term is. They are improved cast wheels, but not up to forged standards. Those weights are equivalent to forged factory specs, and cast metal is lighter, so that means less meat in the wheel (and if you look, you can probably find cast wheels down into the 18 or 17# range, if you dare). I've run OZ wheels on track for 4 seasons on my 228 - top notch brand and a similar flow-formed technology. I recently learned that all 4 wheels have minor warpage (still able to Hunter balance, but showing signs of the impacts with gators and potholes). On the M it will be forged only. Aftermarket wheels aren't tested to the same stressors, and seldom get the amount of engineering time and effort; if there is an acceptable factory wheel it will generally be a better bet. Try shopping for the forged aftermarket wheels that the pros use to see what it takes to get light weight and adequate strength (easily 1500-2k/wheel to start). You can find relative values, but no way around the basic rule that you can only pick 2 of the 3 goals: low price, low weight, and high strength. Not to dis Bayern; they're a good company and I'm sure a reputable product (I wanted Bathursts for the 228 but they didn't come in the right offsets), but it won't be as strong as a forging.

[BarrettDB]

Originally Posted by Maynard

Rotary forged is certainly nothing new, I don't think even this term is. They are improved cast wheels, but not up to forged standards. Those weights are equivalent to forged factory specs, and cast metal is lighter, so that means less meat in the wheel (and if you look, you can probably find cast wheels down into the 18 or 17# range, if you dare). I've run OZ wheels on track for 4 seasons on my 228 - top notch brand and a similar flow-formed technology. I recently learned that all 4 wheels have minor warpage (still able to Hunter balance, but showing signs of the impacts with gators and potholes). On the M it will be forged only. Aftermarket wheels aren't tested to the same stressors, and seldom get the amount of engineering time and effort; if there is an acceptable factory wheel it will generally be a better bet. Try shopping for the forged aftermarket wheels that the pros use to see what it takes to get light weight and adequate strength (easily 1500-2k/wheel to start). You can find relative values, but no way around the basic rule that you can only pick 2 of the 3 goals: low price, low weight, and high strength. Not to dis Bayern; they're a good company and I'm sure a reputable product (I wanted Bathursts for the 228 but they didn't come in the right offsets), but it won't be as strong as a forging.

Excellent input and much appreciated. Just want to be as well informed as possible, and for this specific car, it would appear that forging is more in line with the vehicle, so my investigation continues. Thank you!!!