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      03-19-2019, 05:32 PM   #1
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Monster DIY: KW V3, torque specs, re-indexing, spacers, alignment, coilovers install

I recently installed some KW V3 coilovers and found the lack of good DIYs and instructions frustrating, so I’ve done my best to create the most comprehensive guide which includes the following and should apply to the M2, M3, and M4 (F80, F82, F87):
  • Tools and parts required
  • Torque specs - all per BMW
  • How to properly jack up the car without a lift
  • Removal of OEM front and rear suspension
  • Install of KW V3 coilovers (and height settings) and spacers
  • Re-indexing and part numbers for one time use torque-to-yield (TTY) bolts (important step that almost everyone skips)
  • Alignment

***Mods, can we get a section specifically for DIYs instead of having to always search through old posts?***

Section 1: Tools
  • 16mm socket x 2 or (socket + wrench)
  • 18mm pass through socket (must be 12pt, hex wont work!)
  • 10mm socket (preferably not too deep and with a ¼” drive)
  • 21mm socket x2 (or socket + wrench)
  • 16mm wrench or pass through socket
  • T30 torx
  • E18 socket
  • Pry bar or strong metal piece (could probably use large flathead screwdriver)
  • Sharpie
  • 22mm pass through socket (can be hex or spline)
  • Jack/Jack stands
  • 4x4 or 2x4 wood x 2
  • Spring compressor (or clamps if you’re taking a ghetto approach)
  • Tape measure/ruler
  • Knife
  • Flat head screwdriver (small)
  • Blue painters tape
  • Torque wrench (will need ranges from 20 Nm to 165 Nm)
  • Extensions of different lengths (helpful)
  • I recommend NOT using an impact gun as KW and BMW specifically recommend against it as it can damage the strut by spinning the piston.
  • New bolts and nuts as below in "Re-indexing section"
  • Spacers - Anti-seize and Steel brush or drill attachment

Section 2: Jacking the car up without a lift
  1. Before you do anything, measure the distance between the center of the hub to the bottom of the fender and record this for each side. Mine was 14.5” on both fronts, 14 ⅜ right rear and 14 5/16 left rear
  2. Make sure car is in park (and/or has parking brake on)
  3. Loose lugs on all 4 wheels (I use a plastic non-marring socket)
  4. Jack the side lift point (front) and place a jackstand under the rear jack point + a 2x4 or 4x4 under the front tire.
  5. Move the other side and do the same (jack under side lift point (front), etc)
  6. The car should be high enough to reach the front center jack point, use this and place the final two jack stands under the side front jack points.
  7. Double check that everything is secure!
  8. Remove wheels

Section 3a: Removing front suspension
  1. Remove dust cover and plastic shroud (flathead to remove plastic clips + 10mm x 3 near windshield - turn 90* don’t force); rubber has plastic cap that locks into strut tower, both should pop right off
  2. Loosen the strut top mount nut - Using the 18mm pass through + 10mm up the middle to hold the piston from spinning; don’t take all the way off, just break it loose
  3. Disconnect the sway bar - Using 16mm passthrough or box wrench + T30 torx
  4. Remove headlight sensor (2x 10mm wrench - driver side only) where it connects to control arm
  5. Disconnect the brake pad sensor and other wires from their plastic connections so they hang freely
  6. Support the ball joint with a jack under very light tension.
  7. Remove the pinch bolt from the strut - 16mm bolt and nut
  8. Remove the strut bar bolt from the upper strut mount (E18 socket)
  9. Remove the 5 strut mounting bolts (16mm x 5)
  10. Place blue painters tape on the fender edge to protect it
  11. The strut should not be free, slowly lower the jack and it should drop down
  12. Push down on the control arm assembly as you gently pivot the entire strut assembly to the outside of the fender (be extra careful not to scratch your fender, clearance will be very close but you can do it)
  13. Once free, insert pry bar into the pinch bolt area and pry while pulling the strut out at the same time (a quick spray of PB blaster made this much easier)
  14. The strut should be fully removed, repeat this for the other side.
  15. To remove the top hat, compress the spring using spring compressors and use your 18mm passthrough + 10 mm socket as used to loosen it previously, take care not to damage the paper gasket.

Section 3b: Removing rear suspension
  1. Remove shock mounting bolt (18mm nut + bolt)
  2. Using sharpie, mark the position of the camber bolt (just to the left of the strut bolt in pic above) on both the bolt and the nut (I suggest taking a picture so that you’ll remember as well).
  3. Remove the camber bolt (21mm socket + wrench or two sockets, it’s very tight so bring some muscle)
  4. The camber arm is not free and should drop
  5. Remove the upper shock mount (E30 torx x3) and remove the shock from the car (it can be compressed by hand if you’re having trouble getting it to clear)
  6. Push down on the camber arm to decompress the spring and pull it out
  7. Optional: If your coilover kit requires it, the top hat for the upper spring mount may need to come out (it does for KW), hammer a flat head in between it and the body to break it free.
  8. Rear suspension should be full removed
  9. To remove the shock top hat mounting, gently pry off the plastic pointing thing without damaging the paper gasket (use a flathead) and then remove the paper gasket
  10. The strut nut can then be removed using passthrough socket


Section 4a: KW Coilover Front Install
  1. First decide on your ride height - adjustment range per KW is from 0.6-1.6” drop for the front (you could go lower but I’m just quoting their figures). (https://www.kwsuspensions.com/extras...Q/352200BH.pdf)
    • They quote 150mm-175mm as the adjustment range - this is measured from the point where the spring meets the perch to the center of the pinch bolt hole on the strut mounting assembly
    • Assume that 175mm distance = 0.6” drop and 150mm = 1.6” drop. I set at 163mm and got right around a 1” drop.
  2. Next set your damping/rebound; I went 1 click softer on rebound and compression all the way around
  3. Cut the rubber boot top portion from the OEM shock boot and place it on top of the KW spring, aligning it to the spring edge. (documented in KW instructions link above)
  4. Install the OEM top mount onto the KW coilover and rubber OEM mount - uses a 22mm nut and requires pass through socket to avoid turning - torque to 50 Nm
  5. Next, take the lower sleeve (gold colored thing) and insert it into the pinch bolt mount, taking care to line up the opening (I used a dead blow hammer to seat it)
  6. Next, slide the assembled coilover into the sleeve (may need to gently pry the joint open again to get it to fit - note, the nob on the coilover must go into the aligned slot in step 4)
  7. Rotate the coilover and hub back under the fender (should not have clearance problems as it is lower than OEM)
  8. Tighten, but do not torque the pinch bolt (BMW manual calls for a new bolt as this is one time use, I recommend replacing - p/n below) and don’t forget to include the brake line bracket attachment
  9. Measure from the center of the pinch bolt hole to where springs seat on collar (as above) and set to your desired ride height), verify twice and write it down!
  10. Raise the jack under the ball joint and guide the coilover into the upper mounting point and install the 5 strut mounting bolts - Torque to 30 Nm each
  11. Reconnect the upper strut bar - Torque to 56 Nm
  12. Torque the NEW pinch bolt down - Torque to 56 Nm (make sure the shock is fully seated in the collar)
  13. Reconnect the sway bar and Torque to 28 Nm
  14. Make sure all the brake line clips are back in place; reconnect headlight sensor
  15. You are done! See section on re-indexing bushings next

Section 4b: KW Coilover Rear Install
  1. First decide on your ride height - adjustment range per KW is from 0.8-1.8” drop for the rear (you could go lower but I’m just quoting their figures). (https://www.kwsuspensions.com/extras...Q/352200BH.pdf)
    • They quote 15mm-35mm as the adjustment range - this is measured from the point where the spring meets the perch to the upper spring mount
    • One would assume that a 35mm distance would then equal a 0.8” drop, but I set it at 35mm and got zero drop, so YMMV on this (pending spring settling)
  2. Next set your damping/rebound; I went 1 click softer on rebound and compression all the way around
  3. Install the spring first (remember the helper spring goes on the bottom and the adjustment collar goes on the very top, make sure the KW lower rubber mount is seated against the control arm properly) - note the spring will want to pop out sideways so be careful, once you have it lined up, gently raise the car by jacking under the control arm until it has enough tension not to fly out.
  4. Transfer the shock top mount from the OEM suspension to the new KW one and reinstall the paper gasket and the plastic piece (I recommend having it so the rebound adjustment points outward) (torque to 38 Nm)
  5. Mount the shock upper mount first by installing the 3 upper torx bolts (torque to 28 Nm)
  6. Using a NEW bolt (original is one time use), mount the shock to the control arm but do not torque!
  7. Mount the eccentric camber bolt and line up exactly how it was before hand with the sharpie marks (prying the arm back and forth and using creative jack points will help with this) - Torque to 165 Nm (yes 165, not a typo)
  8. Jack the entire hub up to your final ride height (original measurement minus desired drop: so for me this was 14.5” - 0.8” = 13.7” from center of hub to fender).
  9. Once you are at this ride height, then you can tighten the lower shock mount to Torque 100 Nm+90* (this means you tighten til 100, and then turn an additional 90 degrees). Important that this is done at ride height - see re-indexing section for further steps

Section 5: Reindexing and replacing 1 time use torque to yield bolts

This is important! Read below and if you’re having a shop do your install make sure they do this!

Why does the suspension need reindexed?
  • BMW recommends this! When you lower the car, the bushings that are already torqued down from the factory as well as any that you torque without the car on the ground, will twist as the car settles to ride height, diminishing the performance and life of the bushings. To prevent this from happening, you must re-index the bushings to the new ride height. To do this, you have to torque them down at the final ride height and NOT at the old ride height or even worse with the hubs hanging free in the air. This is very difficult without a lift, but can by done by jacking the hub to the final ride height as discussed in the KW install section above. BMW calls this “tighten down in normal position”
I’ve compiled a list of the bushings that need re-indexed below.
  • Unfortunately, many of these bolts/nuts are one time use. This means that you can’t just loosen it, raise the hub to ride height, and then tighten it up. This is because the bolt is torqued to the point that it stretches slightly, so reusing it puts you at risk of a failure (see stories on any forum on this happening after suspension install)
  • Here are the areas that need re-indexed on a coilover/spring install and the parts for the bolts/nuts needed (total price is around $80 for all bolts but that is much cheaper in the long run compared to bushing failures or even worse a catastrophic bolt break)

Rear
1 = 100 Nm + 90 degrees - 07119905610 + 33326760668

3 = 100 Nm - 33326760668 + 07119906489

2 = 165 Nm - 31106768886 + 31106786144

Front
1 = 100 Nm + 90* - 31106885777 + 31106767496

2 = 100 Nm + 90* - 33326760668 + 31106797237


List of bolts and nuts needed:
  • 31106797237 x 2
  • 33326760668 x 2
  • 31106885777 x 2
  • 31106767496 x 2
  • 31106768886 x 2
  • 31106786144 x 2
  • 33326760668 x 2
  • 07119906489 x 2
  • 07119905610 x 2
  • 33326760668 x 2

Section 6: Spacers
  • Make sure hub is clear of any rust or debris - use a wire brush or wire attachment for drill to clean the hub mounting points on both the wheel and the hub
  • Apply a SMALL amount of antiseize to the hub mounting point on the the hub and on the spacer itself where the wheel will sit.
  • Align and install wheels
  • Tighten the wheels in a star pattern while spinning the wheel it to seat properly on the spacer/hub
  • Final lug torque 140 Nm
  • Recheck and tighten after 100 miles or so

Section 7: Alignment


I prefer the following modifications but YMMV based on application, set-up, etc
Rear:
  • Toe to 0* 08’
  • Camber goal 1*50’ depending on initial
  • Diff between L and R camber < 0* 15’
  • Total toe < 0* 16’

Front
  • Toe aim < 0* 07’
  • Toe different side to side < 12’
  • Diff between L and R camber < 0* 15’ (not adjustable without plates)
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      03-19-2019, 05:48 PM   #2
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Fantastic write up!
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      03-19-2019, 06:23 PM   #3
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Good man! 5*!
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      03-19-2019, 07:28 PM   #4
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thanks for this; going to install suspension in the next couple of months
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      03-19-2019, 08:30 PM   #5
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Quote:
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Fantastic write up!
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Originally Posted by Billy_BMW View Post
Good man! 5*!
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Originally Posted by infinitekidM2C View Post
thanks for this; going to install suspension in the next couple of months
Thanks guys! I took some pictures during the install and will try to add those later as well!

Open to feedback on anything I've missed as well!
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      03-20-2019, 02:36 PM   #6
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Comprehensive.

There are only 2 things I might suggest changing:

1. Unbolt the front shocks from the strut tops and then let the suspension droop to release the spring. It make removal from the wheel arches less of a clearance issue. The strut top can then be removed separately and fitted to the KW. Obvs, if you buy new strut tops to go with the KWs, this isn't necessary.

2. Tap the upper spring mount at the rear with a soft mallet and it will drop off without risking damage to the underseal.

HTH
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      03-20-2019, 03:55 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mosely View Post

***Mods, can we get a section specifically for DIYs instead of having to always search through old posts?***
So much this!
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      03-22-2019, 01:59 AM   #8
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Mosely wow so much detail. Shame only the gen x's will read it and the gen y's will want a video

Thanks for taking the time. I will wait patiently to see the write up when you do a turbo swap or remove the engine
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      03-22-2019, 11:10 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MR RIZK View Post
Mosely wow so much detail. Shame only the gen x's will read it and the gen y's will want a video

Thanks for taking the time. I will wait patiently to see the write up when you do a turbo swap or remove the engine
I got caught with my pants down halfway through the job not having an 18mm pass-through 12 point and 22mm pass-through hex and had to make multiple trips to home depot/amazon one day shipping to get the job done over the weekend so I hope this saves others from the same fate!

I'll definitely do some detailed write-ups on whatever I do!
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      03-22-2019, 12:07 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MR RIZK View Post
Mosely wow so much detail. Shame only the gen x's will read it and the gen y's will want a video

Thanks for taking the time. I will wait patiently to see the write up when you do a turbo swap or remove the engine
I'm from gen z. I only learn through infopills inserted into my nose.
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      03-23-2019, 02:01 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mosely View Post
I got caught with my pants down halfway through the job not having an 18mm pass-through 12 point and 22mm pass-through hex and had to make multiple trips to home depot/amazon one day shipping to get the job done over the weekend so I hope this saves others from the same fate!
If the budget stretches what I have done for many years is if I'm missing a particular style spanner/wrench etc I buy the set as I know if I'm missing that now I will need the same style in another size at a later date. This allows me to grow my tool collection organically instead of going nuts buying tools. I just pretend it is a gift to myself.

This way your pants stay on and you have happy neighbours..
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      03-23-2019, 10:28 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MR RIZK View Post
If the budget stretches what I have done for many years is if I'm missing a particular style spanner/wrench etc I buy the set as I know if I'm missing that now I will need the same style in another size at a later date. This allows me to grow my tool collection organically instead of going nuts buying tools. I just pretend it is a gift to myself.

This way your pants stay on and you have happy neighbours..
Ended up with a bunch of new tools after this one.
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      03-23-2019, 11:03 AM   #13
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Nice write up Mosely. Thanks for taking the time to put this together.
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      03-23-2019, 01:42 PM   #14
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Can we convert this to foot pounds?
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      03-23-2019, 02:52 PM   #15
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All my Torque Wrenches do both?
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      03-23-2019, 03:11 PM   #16
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Quote:
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Can we convert this to foot pounds?
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Originally Posted by M Fifty View Post
All my Torque Wrenches do both?
I used Nm because this is how BMW reports them. Can easily convert with google if you'd like.
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      03-23-2019, 03:24 PM   #17
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Also, wanted to add that I did the rear height adjustment today. As I mentioned above, KW specifies a 20mm adjustment range (Point A 15-35mm) for a drop of 0.8-1.8". As I only wanted 0.8-1" drop, I initially went with 35mm between the rear perch and the top mount. This resulted in ZERO change in the rear ride height.

To adjust rear perches:
1. loosen the rear wheel, jack the car up (easiest way for this is side rear jack point, toss a jack stand under the rear subframe where the camber arm meets it).
2. The plastic of the fender liner will be in your way, there is a 10mm nut right next to the perch adjustment (towards the back of the car) that you can remove and hold the plastic out of the way
3. Spray your lube of choice on the threads where they meet the perch AND where the perch rotates on the upper spring (you'll find an abundance of people saying they can't adjust the rears because the who system rotates, and that thread of the guy who cut notches into his upper mounts recently, but I had zero issues with this when properly lubed)
4. Turn COUNTERCLOCKWISE to lower the car, CLOCKWISE to raise the ride height.
5. As for final settings, I ended up around 21-23mm to be fairly flush with the fender and equal to the front drop. Pictures coming soon.
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      03-23-2019, 03:34 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mosely View Post
Also, wanted to add that I did the rear height adjustment today. As I mentioned above, KW specifies a 20mm adjustment range (Point A 15-35mm) for a drop of 0.8-1.8". As I only wanted 0.8-1" drop, I initially went with 35mm between the rear perch and the top mount. This resulted in ZERO change in the rear ride height.

To adjust rear perches:
1. loosen the rear wheel, jack the car up (easiest way for this is side rear jack point, toss a jack stand under the rear subframe where the camber arm meets it).
2. The plastic of the fender liner will be in your way, there is a 10mm nut right next to the perch adjustment (towards the back of the car) that you can remove and hold the plastic out of the way
3. Spray your lube of choice on the threads where they meet the perch AND where the perch rotates on the upper spring (you'll find an abundance of people saying they can't adjust the rears because the who system rotates, and that thread of the guy who cut notches into his upper mounts recently, but I had zero issues with this when properly lubed)
4. Turn COUNTERCLOCKWISE to lower the car, CLOCKWISE to raise the ride height.
5. As for final settings, I ended up around 21-23mm to be fairly flush with the fender and equal to the front drop. Pictures coming soon.
You shouldn't be lubing the spring perches. With driving, dirt gets trapped in the lube. So then when you go to adjust the height in the future, that dirt gets forced into the threads, causing a bad time.
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      03-23-2019, 04:32 PM   #19
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KW appear to suggest - on page 6 of the V3 installation instructions - that the rear spring perches should be removed in order to adjust them?

https://www.kwsuspensions.com/extras...Q/352200BH.pdf

But yes. Greasing the threads on KW height adjustable suspension is unlikely to be a Good Thing.

There 'may' be an argument for greasing the threads on non-stainless steel height adjustable suspension, but that means you need to clean it all off before adjusting the spring preload...
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      03-23-2019, 04:41 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M Fifty View Post
KW appear to suggest - on page 6 of the V3 installation instructions - that the rear spring perches should be removed in order to adjust them?

https://www.kwsuspensions.com/extras...Q/352200BH.pdf

But yes. Greasing the threads on KW height adjustable suspension is unlikely to be a Good Thing.

There 'may' be an argument for greasing the threads on non-stainless steel height adjustable suspension, but that means you need to clean it all off before adjusting the spring preload...
Yea, we were on the phone with them for a while about that stuff and how the rears are adjusted. They stand by their instructions and product saying that's the best way to do it. Even though on other versions of their coilovers, they have a nut at the bottom of the perch to adjust them without removing the perch. Not sure if that nut was on an old design that they found a flaw in and removed it from future versions... or if that design was only for a different vehicle. They wouldn't provide details or answer any questions we had about why there isn't a nut on the bottom of the M2 perches and how their rear adjustment makes no sense and is purposelessly difficult. They just kept insisting that their instructions were correct and the best way to design and go about it.... which is why I ended up getting slots cut into my perches.
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      03-23-2019, 04:51 PM   #21
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Just wait until you try it with the MPS versions - there are no helper springs to relieve the pressure on the rear perches.

The fronts can be adjusted by hand on the M2, so it is a bit of a contrast...
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      03-23-2019, 08:38 PM   #22
Mosely
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Drives: '18 M2 | '20 X5 | '07 E92
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Regarding the lube thing, I meant just for adjusting the perches. A little degreaser afterwards to clean things up, agreed you don't want to attract dirt but it also doesn't matter once you're happy with height. Next time I take them off will be if they fail or when I sell the car/upgrade coils and KW even include the instructions on cleaning above the perch, then slide up and clean below, before making large adjustments. Thinking about it actually, I'd rather a little dirt stick to a non-moving part than rust develop.

Not sure why KW recommend removing to adjust, its quite easy once you get it moving to do it on the car and the only thing turning is the adjustment collar.

Edit: Here is the final stance, just a quick cell shot

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Last edited by Mosely; 03-23-2019 at 09:02 PM.. Reason: added pic
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