[Thescout13]

Originally Posted by chris719

Are there any differences other than the CDV? I'd be concerned the slave cylinder is different other than only the restrictor. I suppose if the pedal feels ok and the clutch disengages there's no issue, though.

No identical piece with a bigger hole where restrictor is. Go search my CDV delete thread. Lot of good info there.

[DarthFader]

Originally Posted by David.m

Is this a straight swap, no mods required? Have seen where guys pull the restrictor out of the oem slave cylinder, just swapping would be easier.

If your doing the job yourself, then just pull clutch slave, take the restrictor out of the stock one and bolt it back up (it's super hard to get the restrictor out while the clutch slave is bolted to the car).

I took my car to an Indy to do the work so I just provided the clutch slave with no restrictor - straight swap. Figured it was an easy swap for the mechanic - wasn't going to ask him to modify the part.

I then pulled the restrictor out of the stock one and gave it a friend who is planning on doing the cdv delete.

[doughboy]

I went for 20% reduction and -10mm height, initially with OE knob. This equated to about 23% reduction in throw.

Yes a most definite reduction in throw and increase in shift precision and weight.

Noise issue was a problem but the raceseng knob sorted that, now wonderful..

[chief1richard]

Installed the Autosolutions Shifter with 20% reduction and stock height with Stock Shift Knob. In regards to noise, my experience is there is no noise coming through Stock Knob. It was the single best upgrade done on my M2. Well worth the money.

[flybigjet]

I talked to Ronald at length today and put in my order. 3.5-4 weeks to ship.

I went with a 20% reduction, stock height (w/ stock knob), and 80A+ bushings.

This is for a NON-track car.

I vacillated between 15-20% (and I'm still uncertain that I haven't screwed it up).

Ronald also has a new bushing choice-- a 70A. He hasn't used them on anyone's yet as he just got them in stock a few days ago. He says that these should stop any NVH complaints. I was very tempted, but didn't want to be the "test case".

For comparison purposes-- stock bushing are 40A.

Any feedback on 15% vs. 20% reduction?

And, is everyone more or less happy with the 80A+ bushings with the stock knob?

R.

[Montaver]

Originally Posted by flybigjet

I talked to Ronald at length today and put in my order. 3.5-4 weeks to ship.

I went with a 20% reduction, stock height (w/ stock knob), and 80A+ bushings.

This is for a NON-track car.

I vacillated between 15-20% (and I'm still uncertain that I haven't screwed it up).

Ronald also has a new bushing choice-- a 70A. He hasn't used them on anyone's yet as he just got them in stock a few days ago. He says that these should stop any NVH complaints. I was very tempted, but didn't want to be the "test case".

For comparison purposes-- stock bushing are 40A.

Any feedback on 15% vs. 20% reduction?

And, is everyone more or less happy with the 80A+ bushings with the stock knob?

R.

Also emailing him today, I track my car so he recommended 22.5%. Sounds like 80A+ and 70A+ will be very similar. I'm tempted to go with 70A just to minimize any chance of NVH as I don't want to change shift knob.

[tropicatango]

80a+ bushing here and stock knob, zero noise, absolutely nothing to complain

[Bee Pee]

Originally Posted by David.m

Is this a straight swap, no mods required? Have seen where guys pull the restrictor out of the oem slave cylinder, just swapping would be easier.

Originally Posted by DarthFader

If your doing the job yourself, then just pull clutch slave, take the restrictor out of the stock one and bolt it back up (it's super hard to get the restrictor out while the clutch slave is bolted to the car).

See YT clip in the link 3:30 in shows f series CDV removal with slave in situ and no drilling required !

Much less hassle/$$$ than buying another slave cyl.No brainer.

[Thescout13]

Originally Posted by Bee Pee

See YT clip in the link 3:30 in shows f series CDV removal with slave in situ and no drilling required !

Much less hassle/$$$ than buying another slave cyl.No brainer.

Originally Posted by Bee Pee

See YT clip in the link 3:30 in shows f series CDV removal with slave in situ and no drilling required !

Much less hassle/$$$ than buying another slave cyl.No brainer.

Go to the thread on the F3x forums and you'll see multiple people had leaking and clutch issues after doing this method. No issues reported like this for the full replacement. This looks like more of a hassle and headache than replacing it with an already perfect one that was manufactured that way.

[flybigjet]

Reading and reading and reading up on this and just confusing myself.

Query: What do the different durometer's of bushings DO?

i.e. three choices: 70, 80+, 95.

NVH goes up as the number goes up. Got that.

But, what's the DIFFERENCE between them? i.e. What do they do that you feel?

Most specifically, 70 vs. 80-- what difference will you feel?

TIA

[Thescout13]

Originally Posted by flybigjet

Reading and reading and reading up on this and just confusing myself.

Query: What do the different durometer's of bushings DO?

i.e. three choices: 70, 80+, 95.

NVH goes up as the number goes up. Got that.

But, what's the DIFFERENCE between them? i.e. What do they do that you feel?

Most specifically, 70 vs. 80-- what difference will you feel?

TIA

Rubber notchiness vs mechanical clickiness is the best way I can put it. 80a are the perfect bushings IMO and I wouldn't change a thing about their NVH. Love the visceral almost race care feel and sound feedback.

[Bee Pee]

Originally Posted by Thescout13

Go to the thread on the F3x forums and you'll see multiple people had leaking and clutch issues after doing this method. No issues reported like this for the full replacement. This looks like more of a hassle and headache than replacing it with an already perfect one that was manufactured that way.

Yes those same threads also flag what PITA to get slave cyl top bolt is to access to remove / refit.

I don't advocate CDV removal using a drill but using a dry wall / self tapping screw as a CDV extractor with slave cyl is FoC and successful. Fact.

From yr post, you spent the money on the slave cylinder before trying this 😂😂😂😂

[Montaver]

Originally Posted by flybigjet

I talked to Ronald at length today and put in my order. 3.5-4 weeks to ship.

I went with a 20% reduction, stock height (w/ stock knob), and 80A+ bushings.

This is for a NON-track car.

I vacillated between 15-20% (and I'm still uncertain that I haven't screwed it up).

Ronald also has a new bushing choice-- a 70A. He hasn't used them on anyone's yet as he just got them in stock a few days ago. He says that these should stop any NVH complaints. I was very tempted, but didn't want to be the "test case".

For comparison purposes-- stock bushing are 40A.

Any feedback on 15% vs. 20% reduction?

And, is everyone more or less happy with the 80A+ bushings with the stock knob?

R.

I just pulled the trigger on 20pc reduction, stock height, 70a bushings. 1-2 weeks. Can't wait!

[flybigjet]

Originally Posted by Montaver

I just pulled the trigger on 20pc reduction, stock height, 70a bushings. 1-2 weeks. Can't wait!

What made you go with 70A instead of 80A+?

That's the one thing I'm still vacillating over.

[Montaver]

Originally Posted by flybigjet

What made you go with 70A instead of 80A+?

That's the one thing I'm still vacillating over.

Because I don't want any additional NVH. The reality is there probably isn't much difference between 70 and 80. If you check the power flex bushing scale 70 is a good spot for the street.

[gphung]

I've been on 80a+, 20% reduction, stock height, CF M Perf knob for a couple of months now, and there is zero added noise as far as I can tell. The knob does vibrate more than before, but it doesn't bother me one bit. I don't rest my hand on the knob (and you shouldn't be), so it doesn't bother me at all. Also with the audio system muted, I still don't hear any additional noise. Zero regrets.

FWIW, if you're unhappy with your 80a+ purchase, you can always ask Ron to exchange it. He's an awesome guy, and I also read not too long ago on this thread (after I already got mine) that somebody on here was able to do that. Granted you'll need to visit your shop two more times and is a bit of a pain in that sense (and a bit costly), but at least the option is there. Don't think too much about it, IMO. You're not gonna really know until you try it out for yourself. 80a+ isn't like it's the 95a bushings.

[Thescout13]

Originally Posted by Bee Pee

Yes those same threads also flag what PITA to get slave cyl top bolt is to access to remove / refit.

I don't advocate CDV removal using a drill but using a dry wall / self tapping screw as a CDV extractor with slave cyl is FoC and successful. Fact.

From yr post, you spent the money on the slave cylinder before trying this 😂😂😂😂

I had a shop do it all at once when I was doing my short shift kit so paid nothing for the install and $70 for the part. Rather pay that and not have to worry about the headache if I messed it up myself. Always shocking to me how cheap people can be with modifying a $60k car.

Bet you're the type of guy who drills holes in his exhaust and intake to "get more sounds bruh" for an expensive car rather than doing it the right way or the clean way. If I've learned anything in my years of dealing with supply chain for components, is that a 1 for 1 replacement for a component to achieve a purpose is ALWAYS better/safer/more reliable compared to making any modification to the original component at home.

But given how butthurt you are about my post, seems like you like to half ass things and not do them right and clean.

[Bee Pee]

Originally Posted by Thescout13

I had a shop do it all at once when I was doing my short shift kit so paid nothing for the install and $70 for the part. Rather pay that and not have to worry about the headache if I messed it up myself. Always shocking to me how cheap people can be with modifying a $60k car.

Bet you're the type of guy who drills holes in his exhaust and intake to "get more sounds bruh" for an expensive car rather than doing it the right way or the clean way. If I've learned anything in my years of dealing with supply chain for components, is that a 1 for 1 replacement for a component to achieve a purpose is ALWAYS better/safer/more reliable compared to making any modification to the original component at home.

But given how butthurt you are about my post, seems like you like to half ass things and not do them right and clean.

You've chosen to make this personal.

You clearly know FA about me so best wind your neck in, grow up and stop being a twunt.

[Thescout13]

Originally Posted by Bee Pee

You've chosen to make this personal.

You clearly know FA about me so best wind your neck in, grow up and stop being a twunt.

Originally Posted by Bee Pee

You've chosen to make this personal.

You clearly know FA about me so best wind your neck in, grow up and stop being a twunt.

ok Aitch. You do you.

[mzcp]

Received my AS SSK with 20% reduction, OEM shifter height and 70A bushings.

[flybigjet]

Originally Posted by mzcp

Received my AS SSK with 20% reduction, OEM shifter height and 70A bushings.

When are you getting it installed? You're the first (as far as I know) to go with the 70A's, and I've been vacillating between the 70A's & 80A's (I'm "on order").

I'd really like to hear a "ride report" before Ron gets to my build!

R.

[mzcp]

Originally Posted by flybigjet

When are you getting it installed? You're the first (as far as I know) to go with the 70A's, and I've been vacillating between the 70A's & 80A's (I'm "on order").

I'd really like to hear a "ride report" before Ron gets to my build!

R.

I'll get it installed on Monday. I won't have anything to compare it to. UCP is already installed and I like it.