[chief1richard]

Anyone here using Monoballs for their front suspension. If so could you notice any difference in handling to make it a worth while upgrade. There seem to be several types out there. I will have my suspension out soon, and might be a good time to add them.

[M2C_PLUS]

Originally Posted by chief1richard

Anyone here using Monoballs for their front suspension. If so could you notice any difference in handling to make it a worth while upgrade. There seem to be several types out there. I will have my suspension out soon, and might be a good time to add them.

Yes. Millways. "Street" version) Tightens up the front end (better steering feedback/input response) and reduces the "squirming" front end under braking.

(Better upgrade than 255/275 tyres : )

[chief1richard]

Originally Posted by M2C_PLUS

Yes. Millways. "Street" version) Tightens up the front end (better steering feedback/input response) and reduces the "squirming" front end under braking.

(Better upgrade than 255/275 tyres : )

Not sure what if, anything that has to do with 255/275 tires. Did you install these yourself with a press or buy them pre-installed in new arms?

[MR RIZK]

He is just saying that the upgrade to the mono balls is money better spent then increasing the tire size.

Yes you need a press to install. If you don't have a press nor want to pay someone then buy the turner motorsport ones as they come preinstalled and install the arms yourself.

[bentom2]

The Turner bushings preinstalled in new OEM arms have been great for me. No new noises and nice improvement in steering feel.

[MR RIZK]

Originally Posted by bentom2

The Turner bushings preinstalled in new OEM arms have been great for me. No new noises and nice improvement in steering feel.

I second that no issues here either. Happy to be corrected on this but I believe the Millway, Turners and probably a few others use the same mono ball which I believe is a BMW item. All the manufacturers are doing is making a different carrier for it. For me the shortlist was Millway and Turner. Went with turner as I was lazy.

[M2C_PLUS]

Originally Posted by MR RIZK

He is just saying that the upgrade to the mono balls is money better spent then increasing the tire size.

Yes you need a press to install. If you don't have a press nor want to pay someone then buy the turner motorsport ones as they come preinstalled and install the arms yourself.

[Bee Pee]

As said already - retrofitted bimmerworld mballs into new TS/UCA and did the swap. No regrets only upsides.

[M2guru]

No regrets!

[chief1richard]

Guess I'll be buying the pr-installed as I don't have a Press. Anyone know which Turner Tie Rod Puller would work for the Ball Joints?

[chief1richard]

Originally Posted by PrinceCity

The turner pre-installed arms are $575. Wouldn't you get more for your money going for the SPL full replacement arms for $600?

https://www.splparts.com/products/fr...x-e8x-f8x.html

Those parts in that link do not fit the M2. However SPL does have the Lower Control Arms for $699. I will have to do some research on what the adjustability is for, as the Turner ones do not have adjustments.

[chief1richard]

Originally Posted by PrinceCity

Yes they fit. Says so right on the site and tons of m2 and m3 and m4 owners have them. And they let you dial in caster. Positive caster is more stable.

Thanks, I'll take another look.

[chief1richard]

Originally Posted by M2guru

No regrets!

Is a Tie Rod puller needed to release the Tie rod Joint? Ifit is , what type is needed?

[NISFAN]

Originally Posted by chief1richard

Is a Tie Rod puller needed to release the Tie rod Joint? Ifit is , what type is needed?

No, not needed. Just loosen the nut a few threads and give it a soft blow with a leather/copper hammer.

[M2guru]

Originally Posted by chief1richard

Is a Tie Rod puller needed to release the Tie rod Joint? Ifit is , what type is needed?

The reason that I got a whole new arm (shown in the video) was because I bent the ball joint trying to get mine out with the wrong tool - a short ball joint remover. Bought the big/taller one. I think I had so much trouble because of two MN winters. Now I don't drive it in the winter.

[chief1richard]

Originally Posted by M2guru

The reason that I got a whole new arm (shown in the video) was because I bent the ball joint trying to get mine out with the wrong tool - a short ball joint remover. Bought the big/taller one. I think I had so much trouble because of two MN winters. Now I don't drive it in the winter.

So you do need a Ball Joint Remover to remove the Tie Rod End? Do you know which one I would need on Turner's Web-Site, as they have several different ones?

[MR RIZK]

I would say in general you don't need the tie rod tool. Most times you just undo the nut till it passes the end of the thread a bit and give it a decent whack on the nut and on the cup and it should pop.

If it doesn't then this is when you need the tool. The area you live in like salty air has big influence if it will come out or not.

My suggestion is to test out at home first before you buy the tool. You can always just tighten the nut again and your alignment will be fine till when u have time to do the full replacement.

There was one post on BP where an owner with hulk like abilities managed to bend the shaft. I have no idea how he did this but can safely say in his situation a tool would have been required.

[M2guru]

Originally Posted by MR RIZK

I would say in general you don't need the tie rod tool. Most times you just undo the nut till it passes the end of the thread a bit and give it a decent whack on the nut and on the cup and it should pop.

If it doesn't then this is when you need the tool. The area you live in like salty air has big influence if it will come out or not.

My suggestion is to test out at home first before you buy the tool. You can always just tighten the nut again and your alignment will be fine till when u have time to do the full replacement.

There was one post on BP where an owner with hulk like abilities managed to bend the shaft. I have no idea how he did this but can safely say in his situation a tool would have been required.

That was me who bent the shaft. I am no hulk. It was a matter of the wrong tool and poor alignment trying send the threaded end of the ball joint through at the only angle I could with that wrong tool. That's why I got the bigger one: https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-3...-tool-20-80mm/. That worked for me with proper alignment.

[chief1richard]

Just want to be prepared when my MP Suspension and Camber Plates arrive. I Don't want to have to go Hulk on it.

[bentom2]

The ball joint popped out easily for me. It doesn’t have the same aggressive taper that lots of other cars have- that require a good whack to loosen. I don’t have the salt corrosion you guys in the NE have to deal with, so perhaps that could add some resistance, but if your car hasn’t seen much salt, you’re probably fine.

[chief1richard]

Originally Posted by M2guru

That was me who bent the shaft. I am no hulk. It was a matter of the wrong tool and poor alignment trying send the threaded end of the ball joint through at the only angle I could with that wrong tool. That's why I got the bigger one: https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-3...-tool-20-80mm/. That worked for me with proper alignment.

Do you know what the torque Specs are for the re-install?

[M2guru]

Originally Posted by chief1richard

Do you know what the torque Specs are for the re-install?

I don't recall. When I did it, I used the website TIS, or something like that, for information and that is not available any longer last I looked.