[F87source]

Originally Posted by Nezil

I'm not sure I'd say it's lower rate, but less well thought out.

FTP = Masata... If you're thinking FTP, make sure to budget for the screws and clamps to make it better. Also don't buy if you're ever going to do WMI (which I strongly recommend by the way - don't know why it seems to have a stigma).

WMI has a stigma because people always cheap out and use the cheapest and crappiest system available (doesn't apply to you because you did things correctly going with aquamist), this means leaks over time. Also these systems have absolutely terrible fail safes leading to blown engines when those crappy systems leak or clog. The next issue is poor atomization from the nozzles by these sub par systems leading to unequal meth distribution and pooling of meth in the pipes. Also injection strategy on all but 2 systems are pathetic because they PWM the pump leading to slow response times vs. PWM a fast response solenoid making it react quick like a fuel injector (you don't see cars pwm a fuel pump they pwm the fuel injector and a meth kit should be the same), also there are only 2 kits that are truly progressive. Also tunes are important because if you misfire the car shuts off fuel delivery but not spark, so if you meth kit doesn't shut off flow you will get hyper lean cylinder conditions resulting in engine failure. So far I do not believe any kit can monitor and shut of injection during misfires, torqbyte may be close since they can tap into the canbus and monitor that data and aquamist if they so choose can have the HSF controller monitor all 6 fuel injectors and shut off spray when any of those 6 injectors shuts off due to misfires. An alternate solution currently only offered on MHD is meant for PI and meth and that shuts off the coils to the misfiring cylinder to prevent hyper lean conditions.


So imo there are only 2 systems out there that do all of the above properly and that is aquamist and torqbyte's cm5 lt and lts. But for the torqbyte system you will probably have to use aquamist jets since they are the best of the best, only issue is that they are BSP fittings not NPT so you will need adapters.

[dasblack]

Originally Posted by Wattens

Mines at 24,000miles and is a 05/16 build, not sure if previous owner had issues but it gets up to 46 degrees here in Sydney as well. She didn't pop over summer, but I've got a metal VRSF one ready to go on when warranty finishes in a few months.

Originally Posted by Wattens

Mines at 24,000miles and is a 05/16 build, not sure if previous owner had issues but it gets up to 46 degrees here in Sydney as well. She didn't pop over summer, but I've got a metal VRSF one ready to go on when warranty finishes in a few months.

My pipe cracked yesterday at the exact same mileage and car build. It felt like I hit something or a part of the engine broke off

[Shahaf2911]

Originally Posted by Poochie

So, to update this thread, my charge pipe cracked from the TB, the dealer replaced it with a revised version and Geico paid the bill.

Hopefully, the revamped plastic pipe holds up, for the remainder of my ownership 🤞🏼

Original cracked pipe on the top, new, enhanced pipe on the bottom.

That's great news I'm happy to hear everything has went smoothly
Thought I wasn't awake there was a revised version of the charge pipe! Have you seen an actual difference from the one they replaced to the broken one or did the dealer tell you it's a revised version of the old charge pipe (because it's a known issue ?) ?
It's kinda weird if it's really a revised version as if it is, it should have been a recall not a fix for a problem once it brakes as it got to the point they made a revised one ahah

*EDIT* where did your post go it was here 5 minutes ago

[Poochie]

*Sorry, there are two active threads on the same subject, I replied to the wrong one.*

So, yes, below, is a photo I took today of the new, revised pipe and lower one is the original, broken pipe that they replaced.

Photo of both juxtaposed; notice the enhanced lip, which attaches to the throttle body.

[3t3p]

does charegepipe flow on the N55 really matter so long as it isn't restrictive?

or put another way has it been proven that brands claiming higher flow with their chargepipes have proven any gains?

trying to decide which pipe to get thinking of playing safe with the forge solution

[Shahaf2911]

Originally Posted by Poochie

*Sorry, there are two active threads on the same subject, I replied to the wrong one.*

So, yes, below, is a photo I took today of the new, revised pipe and lower one is the original, broken pipe that they replaced.

Photo of both juxtaposed; notice the enhanced lip, which attaches to the throttle body.

Oh I really didn't notice! I do have the same charge pipe as the revised one they installed for you so I just assumed they changed to the same one, my dealer didn't even tell me there is a revised version so it's nice to know that
Thou it's still weird they have a revised version for a product they know fails but do not make a recall for that product

[MZWIE]

The problem with the OEM CP is not the flange attachment. It breaks just below that. The plastic becomes brittle over time and the vibrations make it crack.

[PackPride85]

Originally Posted by MZWIE

The problem with the OEM CP is not the flange attachment. It breaks just below that. The plastic becomes brittle over time and the vibrations make it crack.

It is the flange. You can see it in Poochie's pics and pretty much every other pic on this forum of it. It's because you have the open slot for the clip and very little material on the other side for the flange connection on the TB. As the motor moves (and IC doesn't) the pipe needs to flex somewhere. The ridged section usually is designed for that but the flange is the weak point and breaks.

I also think I answered my question from the other thread about how they were able to increase the length of the flange on the pipe and still have it line up with the clip opening on the throttle body. See attached image.

[3t3p]

always wondered what that metal weight is on that pipe, anti resonance?

[McGary911]

I joined the club yesterday. Appointment at the dealer on Wednesday.

Anyone try one of these? I may have an upgraded one in my future.

https://x-ph.com/vr-speed-factory-vr...-m235-335-435/

[akkando]

Originally Posted by McGary911

I joined the club yesterday. Appointment at the dealer on Wednesday.

Anyone try one of these? I may have an upgraded one in my future.

https://x-ph.com/vr-speed-factory-vr...-m235-335-435/

Yes. They sent me the one for the n54 instead of the n55. Eventually after very slow communication I got the correct part. Had a shop install it for me since the car was going there anyway for some other stuff. A week later the little locking nut or whatever that seals where the meth bung is came loose and was leaking air I could hear. Shop put it back on tight and with locktight. Not sure if that was shop error, defect, or flawed part. Since then no problems.

People also had fitment issues on xdrive n55 vehicles but I think that's been resolved.

[McGary911]

Originally Posted by akkando

Yes. They sent me the one for the n54 instead of the n55. Eventually after very slow communication I got the correct part. Had a shop install it for me since the car was going there anyway for some other stuff. A week later the little locking nut or whatever that seals where the meth bung is came loose and was leaking air I could hear. Shop put it back on tight and with locktight. Not sure if that was shop error, defect, or flawed part. Since then no problems.

People also had fitment issues on xdrive n55 vehicles but I think that's been resolved.

Thanks.. if I go that route I’ll do the locktite on the meth bung before it goes on the car. Good tip.

[tranck]

Originally Posted by McGary911

I joined the club yesterday. Appointment at the dealer on Wednesday.

Anyone try one of these? I may have an upgraded one in my future.

https://x-ph.com/vr-speed-factory-vr...-m235-335-435/

That's what I put on (VSRF) instead of the OEM BMW plastic one.

[PackPride85]

All the CPs are fine now. A few had some fitment options when the car first came out (common for aftermarket companies to rush things to market) but they've all been fixed. The VRSF you just need to tighten the meth bung plug. I think its even in the instructions they give you.

[BMWF87Melb]

Been seeing a few cracked charge pipes on my local M2 Facebook group and I'm thinking whether I should replace my charge pipe with an aftermarket one even though I don't have any issues with the car at the moment.

My car is a 2017 6MT with 41,000km. No tune and the only mod is an MPE. Car has not done any track days and the car is no long under warranty too.

I don't plan on tuning the car or doing any performance type mods, but I am considering to just change the charge pipe for peace of mind. Have people here been changing the stock charge pipe to an aftermarket piece just as a preventative measure?

I just don't want to be caught out with a car that has to be towed away especially if I'm out with the family.

I've never replaced a working component on a car as a preventative measure but this is the first bmw I've owned so it's a bit of foreign ground for me

Even though the part and install will be around $450 USD, I'm leaning towards biting the bullet on this so I can avoid what pretty much seems like a a regular occurrence even for stock cars.

Is that fair to say it's very common for stock n55s to have this issue over time? For stock cars, from what I've read on these forums and Facebook groups, it really seems like a luck of the draw type of thing?

[PackPride85]

Originally Posted by BMWF87Melb

Been seeing a few cracked charge pipes on my local M2 Facebook group and I'm thinking whether I should replace my charge pipe with an aftermarket one even though I don't have any issues with the car at the moment.

My car is a 2017 6MT with 41,000km. No tune and the only mod is an MPE. Car has not done any track days and the car is no long under warranty too.

I don't plan on tuning the car or doing any performance type mods, but I am considering to just change the charge pipe for peace of mind. Have people here been changing the stock charge pipe to an aftermarket piece just as a preventative measure?

I just don't want to be caught out with a car that has to be towed away especially if I'm out with the family.

I've never replaced a working component on a car as a preventative measure but this is the first bmw I've owned so it's a bit of foreign ground for me

Even though the part and install will be around $450 USD, I'm leaning towards biting the bullet on this so I can avoid what pretty much seems like a a regular occurrence even for stock cars.

Is that fair to say it's very common for stock n55s to have this issue over time? For stock cars, from what I've read on these forums and Facebook groups, it really seems like a luck of the draw type of thing?

No one really knows the exact cause. My guess is the plastic becomes more brittle in climates where you have big temperature swings. Could also be related to a manufacturing defect during production.

We can confirm if it does break, bmw is replacing with a modified version that is beefed up in the problem area. I'm not sure if you can buy this version directly from bmw parts. The aftermarket ones I have not seen develop any issues, including my own.

[Shahaf2911]

Originally Posted by BMWF87Melb

Been seeing a few cracked charge pipes on my local M2 Facebook group and I'm thinking whether I should replace my charge pipe with an aftermarket one even though I don't have any issues with the car at the moment.

My car is a 2017 6MT with 41,000km. No tune and the only mod is an MPE. Car has not done any track days and the car is no long under warranty too.

I don't plan on tuning the car or doing any performance type mods, but I am considering to just change the charge pipe for peace of mind. Have people here been changing the stock charge pipe to an aftermarket piece just as a preventative measure?

I just don't want to be caught out with a car that has to be towed away especially if I'm out with the family.

I've never replaced a working component on a car as a preventative measure but this is the first bmw I've owned so it's a bit of foreign ground for me

Even though the part and install will be around $450 USD, I'm leaning towards biting the bullet on this so I can avoid what pretty much seems like a a regular occurrence even for stock cars.

Is that fair to say it's very common for stock n55s to have this issue over time? For stock cars, from what I've read on these forums and Facebook groups, it really seems like a luck of the draw type of thing?

In my opinion you should just change it, as mine broke when I was bone stock 30k miles.. it's cheap and if you don't replace it it might crack and go inside the engine meaning expensive repair (something that can happen it's just luck if it happens or not)) and for ~100 bucks I don't think it's a risk worth taking

[mike@x-ph.com]

Originally Posted by Shahaf2911

In my opinion you should just change it, as mine broke when I was bone stock 30k miles.. it's cheap and if you don't replace it it might crack and go inside the engine meaning expensive repair (something that can happen it's just luck if it happens or not)) and for ~100 bucks I don't think it's a risk worth taking

+1

[EDWYER]

Yep, 1st thing I will change.

[memetm2]

I just got mine cracked at 27k with everything stock. Factory warranty replaced it for free.

[mike@x-ph.com]

Originally Posted by memetm2

I just got mine cracked at 27k with everything stock. Factory warranty replaced it for free.

[Olgunan]

Finally blew…16' w/19k miles on the clock