[FaRKle!]

So I've seen a good amount of videos covering spring only swaps, but few that really cover the whole process of springs and dampers. And none of the videos I saw talked about how tricky using the appropriate passthrough socket for the rear damper can be. Also, below you'll see the convenient torque spec table I made so you can print it out and post it in your garage.

Well here's my take on the work, and making sure you have the right passthrough tools to do it.

Originally Posted by Index

0:00 Intro
0:21 Tools overview
2:23 Engine bay parts removal/loosening
4:22 Removing the wheels
4:47 Front wheel well components removal
7:22 Removing the front spring and strut
7:57 Front spring components overview
8:25 Front strut/spring unit assembly
10:13 Front strut/spring assembly installation
11:42 Front wheel well components installation
13:31 Securing things in the engine bay
15:03 Rear headlight levelling sensor notes
15:36 Rear damper removal
16:31 Rear spring removal
17:47 Rear spring overview
19:14 Rear damper unit disassembly
20:53 Rear damper components overview
22:02 Rear damper unit assembly
23:09 Rear spring installation
24:03 Rear damper installation
24:52 Camber arm and components securing
26:52 Wheels installation

[H20neun]

thanks! I plan to do kw has install soon so this will be very helpful

[detroitm2]

Nice.

For the rears, I just put a pair of vice grips with a rubber sheet (to protect it) on the shock shaft and hit it with my impact a couple times, came right off.

[chief1richard]

[QUOTE=FaRKle!;27095935]So I've seen a good amount of videos covering spring only swaps, but few that really cover the whole process of springs and dampers. And none of the videos I saw talked about how tricky using the appropriate passthrough socket for the rear damper can be. Also, below you'll see the convenient torque spec table I made so you can print it out and post it in your garage.

Well here's my take on the work, and making sure you have the right passthrough tools to do it.

Well done! Best DYI video I have seen on installing Coilovers.I will be doing this soon if I can ever decide on which suspension to go with. Not knowing that Autozone Pass Through would have hung me up for hours.

[FaRKle!]

Originally Posted by detroitm2

Nice.

For the rears, I just put a pair of vice grips with a rubber sheet (to protect it) on the shock shaft and hit it with my impact a couple times, came right off.

While this works in a pinch, it's not advised to use an impact on the top nuts (and BMW specifically says not to in ISTA) because it can loosen the nut on the opposite side of the shaft inside the damper that secures the piston/shim stack.

[nioh_lbbm2]

I love the amount of work you put into your videos with helpful time breakdowns and descriptions

[Mospeada]

awesome vid i have seen his other vids before. very complete and informative. torque specs are crucial

[2020M2Competition]

Another great video

Many thanks

Keep up the good work!

Can we assume that a suspension upgrade is in the works and, if so, can you give us a hint on what you're planning?

[Mospeada]

would love to see camber plate replacement and after market shock replacement. torques to use for CF brace, aluminum brace, camber plate bolts, the whole works...

[FaRKle!]

Thanks for the feedback guys!

Originally Posted by 2020M2Competition

Can we assume that a suspension upgrade is in the works and, if so, can you give us a hint on what you're planning?

For me personally, I probably won't be changing the suspension (dampers/springs) till mid or late next year (I'm keeping an eye out for a set of used H&R coilovers to use as donor parts).

That said, I've been in contact with another M2C owner who's having Fat Cat Motorsports do some bespoke dampers for him. That's one of the main reasons why I was pulling my suspension apart, so they could measure our dampers/springs, wheel travel, and motion ratios to tune his dampers accordingly. Eventually I'll be using them for my custom project.

Originally Posted by Mospeada

would love to see camber plate replacement and after market shock replacement. torques to use for CF brace, aluminum brace, camber plate bolts, the whole works...

I'm sure I'll get there eventually . Either that I need a friend getting camber plates for their F8x that wants me to install, haha.

[David.m]

Great video.

Just to add re the rear strut top hats, the found the Schwaben 18mm strut nut socket got in the hole on one side but not the other. The problem was a small lip of alloy (looked to be from a join in the mould), I just filed off the excess alloy to make a smooth wall for the problem side and the socket went in fine (& of course you can then tighten to correct torque).

[FaRKle!]

Originally Posted by David.m

Great video.

Just to add re the rear strut top hats, the found the Schwaben 18mm strut nut socket got in the hole on one side but not the other. The problem was a small lip of alloy (looked to be from a join in the mould), I just filed off the excess alloy to make a smooth wall for the problem side and the socket went in fine (& of course you can then tighten to correct torque).

Wow that's lucky! Mine wasn't even close to fitting the rear top mount.

[chief1richard]

I have a set I just bought of the Shwaben Pass Throughs. Be aware that these sockets are very weak and not meant to be used with high torque. I was tightening a Ball Joint with one, and bent like a pretzel. Now I need to replace the 18mm one, which is the only one I needed when I bought the whole set.

[2020M2Competition]

Any thoughts with respect to using the Bilstein B6 HD replacement struts/shocks with the factory top mounts?

As you noted in your video, the Bilsteins come with an even larger 22mm top nut

Do you think it would be possible to use the stock 18mm nuts on the Bilsteins?

I believe they both use M14 x 1.5 threads

[FaRKle!]

Originally Posted by 2020M2Competition

Any thoughts with respect to using the Bilstein B6 HD replacement struts/shocks with the factory top mounts?

As you noted in your video, the Bilsteins come with an even larger 22mm top nut

Do you think it would be possible to use the stock 18mm nuts on the Bilsteins?

I believe they both use M14 x 1.5 threads

There's no issues using B6 with the factory top mounts. Even though the nut itself is larger, they should both have the same thread size (this isn't true for all aftermarket dampers). If the threads are the same you can use the factory all metal top nut, but be careful when torquing it to the BMW metal nut spec. Bilstein uses softer metal for their top mount posts, and at least when they use a hex counter hold, the hex will strip if trying to use BMW torque specs. If you look at the torque specs Bilstein puts in their manuals for their nylocs, you'll see it's lower than BMW's.