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      03-28-2019, 07:49 PM   #23
AndrewC1989
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brianpdx View Post
Hi, I can help. I just went through this whole situation. Strangely, the part # I used is different from either part # you listed. This part # I can guarantee is accurate for the M2 LCI gauge cluster (non-Competition): 62-10-8-097-793. It's MPH.

Link for reference: https://www.getbmwparts.com/oem-part...10-62108097793

Good luck.
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      03-29-2019, 02:32 AM   #24
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Thank you both for this.
Now I'm worried there are so many part numbers flying around where logic tells me there should be far fewer. Where did you get this particular part number from?

I suppose I could ask Schmeidman who seem to be able to obtain it.
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      03-29-2019, 09:56 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3t3p View Post
Thank you both for this.
Now I'm worried there are so many part numbers flying around where logic tells me there should be far fewer. Where did you get this particular part number from?

I suppose I could ask Schmeidman who seem to be able to obtain it.
Lots and lots of searching the internet. I started with andrewc89's original post, and went from there. The part # he describes (post #1 of this thread) is no longer available. I consulted realoem.com, the link in my previous post and several others, and it consistently came back 62-10-8-097-793. Took that part # to my local dealer, and they confirmed it. There was a tiny bit of a leap of faith on my part to pull the trigger, but I did, and it paid off. It's the right one. Black background, white numbers and red dials, illuminated by LED day or night, lights on or off. Do a quick Google search on 62-10-8-097-793 and you'll get several hits. Pelican Parts, Tischer BMW, etc. I ended up getting mine from Otto's BMW in Pennsylvania. It had to be shipped to them from Germany.
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      03-30-2019, 03:18 AM   #26
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So it appears that strangely, BMW fairly routinely replace some part iterations during the course of a car's lifecycle with corresponding updated part codes.


Yes it is the leap of faith factor. I can do this only when sure the part is correct. I worry about me being UK and you guys in the US having different parts though realise they ought to be universal.

OK! I see how you got to your part number now through real OEM. If I do it for a EURO car and RHD the part number is slightly different.

Right I think I am nearly there!

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=62_0637

I don't understand which part is correct; ending 269 or 792.

792 appears newest (if it matters at all) and superseedes 269 but is 'nonexchangeable retrospectively'

269 IS exchangeable retrospectively

So which one is right?!

Last edited by 3t3p; 03-30-2019 at 08:11 AM..
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      03-30-2019, 08:54 AM   #27
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I feel your pain, 3t3p. Unfortunately, I don't have anywhere else to direct you. The only part # I know, which I've confirmed is guaranteed to be the LCI gauge cluster at least for the M2 in the US, is 62-10-8-097-793. I have no first hand experience with any other gauge cluster part #s. Best of luck.
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      03-30-2019, 11:36 AM   #28
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I wonder what real differences are between US and euro units that are both MPH?
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      05-28-2019, 03:25 AM   #29
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Hi, do you want to sell your old one?
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      05-28-2019, 03:33 AM   #30
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Originally Posted by zhm2102 View Post
Hi, do you want to sell your old one?
Sold it on eBay a long time ago
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      06-04-2019, 11:41 AM   #31
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Have got it installed and working yesterday, pics to come. It's much better







Darren Wood in the UK fitted and coded, props to them for stepping up to do the job.
Gutted there's no separate oil temp, thought the newer guage had it? Must be my 2016 car not having right sensor. Unbelievable BMW...

This was the version I used: 62108098269

Last edited by 3t3p; 06-16-2019 at 10:18 AM..
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      07-02-2019, 01:57 PM   #32
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1996 BMW 318is  [4.75]
2012 Audi Q5  [4.50]
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So, if you install the MPH version, can you still have the digital speed display in the center read in KPH? (Have a US Spec car in Europe so need the best of both worlds!)
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      07-02-2019, 07:24 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by dtmurf View Post
So, if you install the MPH version, can you still have the digital speed display in the center read in KPH? (Have a US Spec car in Europe so need the best of both worlds!)
Yeah I think it can be changed in iDrive
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      03-12-2020, 12:06 AM   #34
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Originally Posted by 3t3p View Post
Gutted there's no separate oil temp, thought the newer guage had it? Must be my 2016 car not having right sensor. Unbelievable BMW...
Dang that sucks. My 2017 shows the new style oil temp gauge
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      03-14-2020, 01:07 PM   #35
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Hi Guys
I have m235i xdrive from 2015
Will this cluster work with my car?
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      03-16-2020, 12:28 PM   #36
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Just don't wipe em down
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      03-24-2020, 12:51 AM   #37
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Re working on m235xi.....

I have the same car, when I asked IND they said they could code it to
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      09-25-2020, 12:06 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndrewC1989 View Post
This is a DIY guide for any of you retrofitting an LCI instrument cluster in your 2016/2017 Pre-Lci M2.

First thing you'll need is the instrument cluster itself. It costs around $975.

This is the US part #:



(I believe the KPH cluster is part # 62108095725 but please double check this)

If you want to make your life easy you can buy it from IND with a coding package included:

https://ind-distribution.com/product?sku=IND-F87LCI-GCR

I bought mine here:

https://www.schmiedmann.com/

If you source the part and coder yourself you can save ~$200 so that's what I'd reccomend doing.

Anyway once you've ordered the cluster and have it in your possession you will need:

1. A torx wrench set

2. A plastic pry tool

3. Someone to code your car for you

Keep in mind you may have to lower and raise your steering wheel multiple times in order to get the best angle you need during this installation. (you can do this with the lever on the steering wheel column)

Now that you have everything you need let's begin.

Start by unscrewing these two torx bolts on the inside top part of the cluster:



Depending on your current steering wheel height you may have to lower it to have the room you need to fit the torx wrench in there.

Once you have the two screws out you can grab your pry tool and start prying the top of the cluster out. I placed it in between the two torx holes and then used my fingers to pull it down towards myself. You'll want to pull down from the top of the cluster.

Be careful when prying and pulling as there are 2 connections in the rear of the cluster you do not want to damage or rip out:



The area is tight and dark so it might help to use a flashlight or cell phone flash to help with visibility.

The colorful wired connection should just pull out with force while the black and green optical connection has a plastic clip you need to press to release. Once you have these two cables unplugged from the back of the cluster you can raise your steering wheel back up because you will now have to squeeze the cluster through the top gap in the wheel like so:



As you can see I turned it sideways and face down to get it out. If for some reason it isn't fitting it means your steering wheel is at the wrong height. Trust me it will come out easily when you have your wheel in the right setting.

(I actually totally forgot the wheel can pull towards you as well so if you just do that it will probably come out easier then doing it the way I did it in the photo)

Now just set your old cluster aside and do everything in reverse.

Take the new cluster and push it through the same gap and plug the cables back in the same areas.

Getting the new cluster through the steering wheel will be a little easier as it's much thinner than the Pre-LCI one. Plugging it back in will be a little tricky though as the wires are not very long, space is tight, and visibility is poor.

Once plugged in make sure to test your connections. Press the start button and make sure the cluster lights up:



You'll get a TON of warning lights and errors but don't panic, this is normal. The car still has to be coded.

Once you're sure you have power going to the cluster you can shut off accessory mode and line up the cluster with the bottom of the dash. Once you're sure it's sitting correctly just push the top up so the holes align with the screws you removed earlier. Reinstall the torx bolts and your physical install is done.

You will of course still need to code the car...

https://www.motor-talk.de/forum/akti...hmentId=722387

Since I didn't have this info at the time what I ended up doing was outsourcing the coding to a professional coder who did it for me remotely. Using a laptop with windows on it, an ENET cable, Virtual Box, TeamViewer and ESYS he was able to have it remotely coded for me in 5-10 min. Easy peezy. Only downside to this is that it was an additional cost of ~$150.

Also, I'm sure a question I'll get is "can the coding be done in bimmercode?" and the answer is no. It must be done in ESYS.

Anyway once the coding is complete you should be up and running error free:



If you have any error messages showing up in idrive don't panic. Just reset the date and time and any service intervals that may have been triggered and you'll be good to go. (You can reset service lights by putting the car in accessory mode and pressing and holding the milage reset button and then scrolling through the menu).

And there you go, all done!

My total cost for the project came out to $1112.19

Just wanted to finish by giving a big thank you to TXSurfer who helped me through this entire process. Really appreciate it

And yeah...that's it. If you guys have any other questions feel free to ask below. Cheers.
Thx for the write up. I'm in the market for a new instrument cluster. My M2 is originally from Canada, and unfortunately, the retrofit one is having issues.
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      10-22-2020, 08:24 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndrewC1989 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by zhm2102 View Post
Hi, do you want to sell your old one?
Sold it on eBay a long time ago
[QUOTE=AndrewC1989;24839567]

May I ask what you got for it?
Pricing out this mod right now.
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      10-24-2020, 09:37 AM   #40
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[QUOTE=SebsM2;26830324]
Quote:
Originally Posted by AndrewC1989 View Post

May I ask what you got for it?
Pricing out this mod right now.
I wouldn't sell it doubt you'll get much and see my thread about can't update istep due to LCI cluster retrofit!
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      10-24-2020, 09:52 AM   #41
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[QUOTE=3t3p;26835185]
Quote:
Originally Posted by SebsM2 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by AndrewC1989 View Post

May I ask what you got for it?
Pricing out this mod right now.
I wouldn't sell it doubt you'll get much and see my thread about can't update istep due to LCI cluster retrofit!
[QUOTE=3t3p;26835185]
Quote:
Originally Posted by SebsM2 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by AndrewC1989 View Post

May I ask what you got for it?
Pricing out this mod right now.
I wouldn't sell it doubt you'll get much and see my thread about can't update istep due to LCI cluster retrofit!
Thanks. OP let me know that in a private message.
For now, I may just hold off on the retrofit for now.
That moves my GTS hood to next in queue 😬
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      05-12-2021, 03:41 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndrewC1989 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bee Pee View Post
Reads like you know way more than me on this - can you expand why M2C cluster wouldn't work as an upgrade to a pre-LCI cluster, given LCI OG m2 cluster works wo issue once coded....
I haven't tried it myself so I don't have any 1st hand evidence to present to you, but looking at it logically you can immediately see the potential issues that arise. The Pre-LCI and LCI M2 are both N55 cars. There weren't any major changes made between them. The M2C is a completely different story. It has an S55 so you have different driving modes, displays, a different tach and speedo with different redlines...




Sure the screen at the bottom is digital but the rest of the gauge isn't. Given the physical differences and changes between the two, It's very unlikely it would be able to function as intended in an N55 car. How would you even code it? You have M2C hardware that would be using standard M2 coding. Then, assuming the wiring is even the same, at the very least you'd be missing a few display lights in the cluster and/or have a few extra one's that are there but are totally unusable. And that's the best case scenario. In all likelihood a majority of the hardware it simply won't work, and even if it does it might not display the information correctly since it would be calibrated for a different car/engine. You probably wouldn't be able to tell what driving mode you're in, how fast you're going or what rpm you're at. All for what? The logo that says M2 instead of M?

Also keep in mind, once you mate a cluster to a car the vin and milage stay with it. You won't just be able to buy an M2C gauge, plug it in, code it, see if it works and resell it or return it if you have issues. Once it's plugged in and coded it's no longer able to adapt to someone else's vehicle without taking it apart and soldering a new chip onto it. So unless you have $1000 to waste and a shit load of time on your hands to conduct this experiment you're much better off just getting the N55 LCI cluster. Aesthetically It's almost identical to the M2C gauge and it'll function 100% with 0 compatibility issues. It's a no brainer.
To reply to these questions, just installed m2C cluster and it work perfectly, the only real difference is 1000 rpm more that have to be considered! Except for this the driving mode, visibility from the 1 st generation is much much better! Buy used and cleared eeprom. Total cost around 650/700
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      05-12-2021, 04:38 PM   #43
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To reply to these questions, just installed m2C cluster and it work perfectly, the only real difference is 1000 rpm more that have to be considered! Except for this the driving mode, visibility from the 1 st generation is much much better! Buy used and cleared eeprom. Total cost around 650/700
A bit a surprised that it worked but good to know!

Do you have the specifics on what coding was needed?
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      05-12-2021, 04:54 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndrewC1989 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by beppeM3+123d View Post
To reply to these questions, just installed m2C cluster and it work perfectly, the only real difference is 1000 rpm more that have to be considered! Except for this the driving mode, visibility from the 1 st generation is much much better! Buy used and cleared eeprom. Total cost around 650/700
A bit a surprised that it worked but good to know!

Do you have the specifics on what coding was needed?
If you buy used you have to erase eeprom desoldering it. If new go straight to the following simple coding procedure:

Connect to car, read fa ,inject cafd, code the kombi with oem fa of the car.

Adjust local time

Enjoy it!
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