[ksalih]

Originally Posted by eeyang92

Don't quote me on this - but according to vorshlag a "loose" top nut will cause the bearing to move in directions it shouldn't (it should only spin on one axis), which can cause premature wear, and also noise.

But as you found, it could be the lack of lubrication, so these could be separate issues

Where is said bearing located, exactly? Easy to lubricate after removal of the nut? ..or only accessible after disassembly of the strut top hat, etc?

[eeyang92]

Originally Posted by ksalih

Where is said bearing located, exactly? Easy to lubricate after removal of the nut? ..or only accessible after disassembly of the strut top hat, etc?

Couldn't tell you sorry, that would depend on how the GC's are made. But the bearing is generally located directly under the top hat.

[BCM M3]

I just installed GC plates on my M2C and had this same noise. Talked to Jay at ground control and he was very helpful. I retorqued the strut nuts to 45lb-ft and the noise is almost gone...just a slight creak from the rubber perch near full lock remains. I had a hard time holding the strut from spinning even with a proper strut nut socket as it's a fair amount of torque to hold with a small 10mm wrench and it starts to chew up the top of the strut. I wound up grinding 2 flats onto a thin walled 1/2" 22mm socket so I could use a 3/8 torque wrench and 10mm socket on the shaft in reverse while tightening the 22mm socket with an adjustable open end wrench.

[HP Autosport]

Originally Posted by eeyang92

Don't quote me on this - but according to vorshlag a "loose" top nut will cause the bearing to move in directions it shouldn't (it should only spin on one axis), which can cause premature wear, and also noise.

But as you found, it could be the lack of lubrication, so these could be separate issues

A sealed bearing should be used. Not sure what GC is using in this application.

[ksalih]

Originally Posted by BCM M3

I just installed GC plates on my M2C and had this same noise. Talked to Jay at ground control and he was very helpful. I retorqued the strut nuts to 45lb-ft and the noise is almost gone...just a slight creak from the rubber perch near full lock remains. I had a hard time holding the strut from spinning even with a proper strut nut socket as it's a fair amount of torque to hold with a small 10mm wrench and it starts to chew up the top of the strut. I wound up grinding 2 flats onto a thin walled 1/2" 22mm socket so I could use a 3/8 torque wrench and 10mm socket on the shaft in reverse while tightening the 22mm socket with an adjustable open end wrench.

Do you have a picture of what you used (2 flats onto a thin walled 1/2” 22mm socket)? I’m trying to visualize as I am running into the same issue. I figured a thin walled 22mm was at least necessary.

[ksalih]

Ensured my strut nut was torqued sufficiently and am still experiencing the same noise/feedback as before - it’s unchanged. This really is unacceptable, even if benign, from GC. I reached out to them but have yet to hear back. I assume they’ll ask me to lubricate the bearing. PITA... I don’t want to remove the strut just to lubricate a bearing and pay for front axle alignment again... I’ll reply back here with their suggestions, regardless.

[M Fifty]

Noting that on the stock suspension the shaft of the strut in bolted to a piece of steel plate rubber mounted in the strut top, maybe the problem is the ball race that most camber plates seem to use?

[wavyyyy]

Add me to the list, installed them on Friday. Didn't really get a chance to drive until yesterday, definitely having the exact noise that's in the video. Might just take them off, which will suck as I actually do like them.

I've reached out to GC Support and I'll follow back here.

E: Running them with KW V3s, never had this noise before the Camber plates so I'm sure it's caused by them.

[Daytona_550]

I have GC plates on stock suspension and have the same noise in the vid above. If this is normal "because race car", then I'm ok with it, but if it is due to a loose strut nut I want to take care of it.

The shop that installed my GC plates is 1-hr away, so looking at doing this myself. I've read thru these posts and seems it's an easy enough job to check the tightness of the strut nut. I have a fairly complete set of std sockets, torque wrench, torx, hex, etc.

As far as special tools, is this the correct one to take care of it? Anything else I am missing that I should know in advance?

https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-3...t-socket-18mm/

[j23]

Had GC street plates on prior BMW's. Too many noises that I've never been able to isolate and solve. Lesson learned. Never again.

You'd have to pay me to run GC plates again. Switched to stock top mounts and all my personal problems went away too lol

They're just not street friendly, despite what you may have been lead to believe. Frankly, I don't see the need for GC plates on a car that sees mostly street use.

If you're desperate for more camber due to aggressive wheels or tires, maybe you should reconsider your choices. If you absolutely can't live without camber plates, be prepared to forever experience harshness, creaks, and metal-on-metal noises.

Fun fact: all camber plates start out quiet.

[ksalih]

Update from GC - they suggested applying PTFE lubrication to penetrate the spring perch bearing. This has absolutely no impact on the issue and it’s still very evident.

Why do they act as if my case is the only case with this condition (it’s evident others are in contact with GC with similar conditions - you’d think they’d chat).

He suggested I swap out the spring perch bearing. Not looking forward to removing my strut again but I’ll likely try this.

[j23]

Originally Posted by ksalih

Update from GC - they suggested applying PTFE lubrication to penetrate the spring perch bearing. This has absolutely no impact on the issue and it’s still very evident.

Why do they act as if my case is the only case with this condition (it’s evident others are in contact with GC with similar conditions - you’d think they’d chat).

He suggested I swap out the spring perch bearing. Not looking forward to removing my strut again but I’ll likely try this.

I had similar issues with them in the past. This was years ago. Every time I reached out and told them about noises or fitment issues, they acted very surprised and settled on telling me that's the nature of the plates. They also suggested some ghetto "solutions", one of which was to apply chain wax spray on the bearing.

I said enough. Uninstalled my camber plates and went back to stock mounts. All problems solved.

I was one of the first people to try out the brand new Moton singles on my M3 many years ago. GC sold me camber plates that did not fit the shaft. After a lot of back and forth and waiting, they finally corrected the situation. But the noises from the plates never completely went away, despite replacing the plate bearings with genuine BMW and using chain wax.

My advice to everyone: don't install aftermarket camber plates on a street car. You may think you're fine now because they're quiet for the first couple months or so, but sooner or later you're going to feel AND hear them. If you're okay with increased noise and harshness, I salute you.

Of course some of this is also dependent on the environment that your car spends most of its time in. If your car never sees inclement weather, your experience may vary slightly.

I know some are going to claim that their camber plates didn't increase any harshness whatsoever, but I find that they're either in denial, not very observant, or both.

There's a reason why the stock mount is so thick and rubbery. Just compare the two side by side and you'll instantly know why camber plates make noises.

[MR RIZK]

Originally Posted by j23

Fun fact: all camber plates start out quiet.

The quality also dictates how long they are quiet for

But you are correct it is a matter of time. Environment, use time and driving style just are factors in the equation of imminent unhappiness for some.

Fun fact number 2: In my case 25mm lowering with vorshlags the minimum camber I can get out of it is 2*. If you want less seek alternate options.

If anyone is concerned about noise in anyway and wants camber plates the best choice is the Millway street editions.

As j23 said don't believe anyone that says rose jointed camber plates are like oem unless their commute is via an ice ring.

[eeyang92]

Sounds like there's a market for OEM-like insulation camber plates lol. You would think after decades there would be some solution.

[j23]

Originally Posted by eeyang92

Sounds like there's a market for OEM-like insulation camber plates lol. You would think after decades there would be some solution.

Herein lies the problem. It's a logical suggestion, but I'm not sure it would work.

The stock mount is a lot beefier all around vs your typical aftermarket camber plate. It needs to be this big and rubbery in order to isolate the noise. As a result, the stock mounts don't provide as much travel as camber plates do, nor is it necessary since they are made to work with the stock struts. Tradeoffs all around.

Stock mounts and camber washers would be my suggestion. Best way to alter camber while keeping the ride entirely noise-free.

However, I'm not sure if this can be done on the M2. https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-4...er-motorsport/

[Daytona_550]

Originally Posted by BCM M3

...I retorqued the strut nuts to 45lb-ft and the noise is almost gone...just a slight creak from the rubber perch near full lock remains...

Was the 45ft-lb torque recommended by GC? The TIS appears to call for 71NM (approx 52ft-lb).

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...ing/1VnXvKMdwj

[iBrakeLate]

Originally Posted by Kingkow

Some update on the plates, it seems there wasn't enough lubrication between the yellow plastic "bearing" and now seems to be better. I'll give it some more KM Before concluding.

However during disassembly, I realised that with my KW DDC suspension, the top nut is barely grabbing 1/2 of the threads of the strut. Is that sufficient? Could that be the cause of some of the knocking sound I get?

Be very careful with those oval nuts. They can end up stripping the strut rod once you install them and try to remove them.

[scanthemelon]

Posted some time ago in this thread with the slip-stick noise. Called up GC, and they recommended I pull the steering bearing out and apply some marine grease, typically used for boat trailer wheel bearings (lol). In any case, I was able to DIY this back in July. It doesn't require you to mess with anything that would impact alignment, just pull the perch and bearing.

I cleaned up the grime and debris, applied the marine grease, and reassembled. Seems that it did the trick for a while but during a recent drive on a warmer day I heard the same noise.