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      02-20-2017, 07:20 AM   #111
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Thanks, interesting.
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      02-20-2017, 03:55 PM   #112
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CommitConfirm View Post
The one on the left is the 'new' switch with the extra button. The one on the right is the 'old' original switch.
OK, with this new information and my original goal of simply installing a switch between the new pins (the ones now present with the new P/N 9252912 that comes with the P button), I tore into this. And got frustrated. My theory was that there is a new button with two wires going to it, so it should simply be connecting or disconnecting them to turn off the camera. Not the case.

The one thing I learned definitively is that the switch is held in by tabs at 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock. Trying the jimmy the switch out at 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock was stressful and unproductive. If you unclip the alcantra boot around the shift knob (mine is 6MT, but DCT should be the same), you can simply press in the tab that is forward of the traction Off button and right under the surface. Press it in (towards the back of the car) and it will pop up. You can't reach the back/6:00 one this way but it should pop right out when the forward clip is removed. Mine was super tight and didn't seem to want to budge with the credit cards and trim tools.

Regarding a cheap or hidden way of triggering the effing camera off when you take it out of reverse, I was not able to figure out how. I shorted the two new pins to each other, to ground, to various other pins and could not get it to work consistently. I could scratch pin 10 (I'm calling the new pins 9 and 10 since they are lower right when you look at the harness) to pin 8 (yes eight) and was able to get it to turn off the camera most of the time but it was erratic and wouldn't work with a simple switch. Scratching repeatedly usually did it, sometimes immediately sometimes not.

So there's something that little switch is doing to the signal, or I'm a moron, or both a and b. I had a multimeter on it and tracked what happened to what pins. I was more interested in figuring this out as a challenge rather than saving $100, but I failed. Now I see bmwdd's post about the PDC retrofit but not sure if it's related to this or not.

Don't mean to confuse anything or anyone on this thread, so suffice it to say the switch p/n from the OP works great and this is irrelevant.
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      02-20-2017, 04:22 PM   #113
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On the OEM new part you have the additional momentary switch and an led. I suspect the whole switch cluster has a common earth and the two additional pins are the + side for the led and switch.

It should be straight forwards to find the common earth. Once you find this you can confirm which of your pin 9 or 10 are the switch.

Simples
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      02-23-2017, 02:43 AM   #114
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New switch installed and working, finally piece & quiet after reverse parking.
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      02-23-2017, 04:35 PM   #115
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Prodigy. View Post
New switch installed and working, finally piece & quiet after reverse parking.
Its the best mod I have on the car
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      02-24-2017, 02:30 AM   #116
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CantComplain View Post
So there's something that little switch is doing to the signal, or I'm a moron, or both a and b. I had a multimeter on it and tracked what happened to what pins. I was more interested in figuring this out as a challenge rather than saving $100, but I failed. Now I see bmwdd's post about the PDC retrofit but not sure if it's related to this or not.

Don't mean to confuse anything or anyone on this thread, so suffice it to say the switch p/n from the OP works great and this is irrelevant.
The missing wire between the console switch unit and ICM was a guess. But it can be easily verified if anyone of you (whose P button on the console switch doesn't work) can take out the cable plug from the console switch unit and take a picture, so that we can compare the total pins with those who got it work, any one?
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      02-24-2017, 12:24 PM   #117
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwdd View Post
For those without backup camera from factory, unplug the console switch and check the wire plug if there is a cable for pin 2

If pin 2 is missing, then this is the missing wire. You need to make yourself a wire (something like 50-60cm), then route the cable from the console switch cable plug pin 2 to ICM (located under the iDrive controller area) cable plug pin 6

This is not something new and actually how F20 / F30 retrofit the Front PDC option (exchanging the console switch is part of the Front PDC retrofit) and it totally makes sense that F87 follows the same. You can find the official BMW retrofit guide here on page 10 which explains the steps with diagrams how retrofitting console switch is done (and forget the rest).

Now I speak it more slowly, hope it doesn't make it awfully complicated to prevent you from trying I don't own a M2 so I can't verify it unfortunately.
I've about to take delivery of my LBB DCT with no backup camera. By the time I found this thread it was too late to change my build. This is one of the first mod's I'll be looking to do, so off to do some more research. Thanks for posting this information. MJ
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      03-07-2017, 03:36 AM   #118
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One of the cheapest and best mod to have on my car.

THANK YOU!!
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      03-14-2017, 11:34 PM   #119
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Installed mine. So much better than stock and the annoying beep can now be turned off after reversing. Confirmed executive package is needed for this to work, but part is plug and play. I swapped out the rocker switch for the stock m2 rocker switch. Swap took 20 mins.

My buddy ended up not picking up his m2 so I have an extra one now available we got used from a junk yard if anyone wants it's condition (8/10). $45 shipped within the US. PM me for details.
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      03-17-2017, 10:22 AM   #120
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R0ME0 View Post
Installed mine. So much better than stock and the annoying beep can now be turned off after reversing. Confirmed executive package is needed for this to work, but part is plug and play. I swapped out the rocker switch for the stock m2 rocker switch. Swap took 20 mins.

My buddy ended up not picking up his m2 so I have an extra one now available we got used from a junk yard if anyone wants it's condition (8/10). $45 shipped within the US. PM me for details.
R0ME0 Just tried to PM you back but your mailbox is full... let me know when there's some room and I'll resend? Thanks!
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      03-17-2017, 12:05 PM   #121
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R0ME0 Just tried to PM you back but your mailbox is full... let me know when there's some room and I'll resend? Thanks!
Inbox is now clear. Sorry about that.
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      03-17-2017, 02:30 PM   #122
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Sorry for the daft question, buts what's the item in your cupholder? Seen a few of them posted in pics but not sure what they are?
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      03-17-2017, 05:48 PM   #123
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Sorry for the daft question, buts what's the item in your cupholder? Seen a few of them posted in pics but not sure what they are?
I'm sorry but my balls are not crystal!

Who's cup holder and what's In it?
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      03-17-2017, 05:54 PM   #124
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Originally Posted by Cibbersicks View Post
Sorry for the daft question, buts what's the item in your cupholder? Seen a few of them posted in pics but not sure what they are?
M Performance Exhaust Bluetooth Button (opening and closing exhaust values).
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      03-20-2017, 06:24 PM   #125
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Just installed the switch and decided to make a quick test video to show this bad boy in action (manual transmission ) I'm loving this mod! Better than the clutch stop.

Enjoy!

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      04-12-2017, 05:13 PM   #126
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Just received mine to install this weekend
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      04-17-2017, 11:38 AM   #127
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwdd View Post
The missing wire between the console switch unit and ICM was a guess. But it can be easily verified if anyone of you (whose P button on the console switch doesn't work) can take out the cable plug from the console switch unit and take a picture, so that we can compare the total pins with those who got it work, any one?
bmwdd

Sorry for the delay in uploading this picks of my car which does not have the backup camera installed (as requested).




Here is a self drawn schematic, with the cable colors identified.


I'm thinking of disconnecting the battery at the weekend and then stripping the dashboard, I'm guessing the wires will find there way into the back some where.
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      04-17-2017, 12:41 PM   #128
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mjsaville View Post
bmwdd

Here is a self drawn schematic, with the cable colors identified.


I'm thinking of disconnecting the battery at the weekend and then stripping the dashboard, I'm guessing the wires will find there way into the back some where.
All the wires (except PIN 4, the red + grey wire) go to the ICM module which is located under the hand brake lever (see diagram below).

I've looked at the wiring diagram again and I think the wire you missed is PIN 1 (i.e. from your schematic, the top right empty hole next to the yellow/blue wire), this wire should be signal wire for the "P" button.

You will need to make a wire and connect PIN 1 of the console switch connector to the PIN 28 of ICM connector, as per the wiring diagram below:





Those people who just switched the console switch and worked, can confirm they do have a wire at PIN 1

ICM Location (A78):



ICM Connector:


Last edited by bmwdd; 04-17-2017 at 12:56 PM..
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      04-17-2017, 03:53 PM   #129
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bmwdd

Thanks for posting the info, this is great.

So, just to confirm a couple of things, I am in agreement my standard cable is one wire short. You are right, Pin 1is missing with the cable missing also.

As my original switch has an extra pin compared to post: 99 , where CommitConfirm original switch as 2 pins missing which is weird, anyways.... Because of this, I fitted the updated switch to see what happens. Although it does not work the Green LED light illuminates on the parking button which is interesting (see below):



With your schematics I now have half a chance of resolving this. Now I need to work out how to get access to the A78 module. Looking at my first picture it looks like there are cables below the selector stick is that the A78 module?, wires shown circled in Red:


Any idea what the BMW partno for the ICM cable is? I'm figuring if I get an old cable I can cannibalize a wire with the correct pins at each end?

thanks for assisting though, very much appreciated?

MJ

Last edited by mjsaville; 04-17-2017 at 06:12 PM..
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      04-17-2017, 09:43 PM   #130
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mjsaville View Post
As my original switch has an extra pin compared to post: 99 , where CommitConfirm original switch as 2 pins missing which is weird, anyways.... Because of this, I fitted the updated switch to see what happens. Although it does not work the Green LED light illuminates on the parking button which is interesting (see below):
This is the expected behavior. Pin 2 (the yellow-blue wire) is the wire which makes the light illuminates when Park Assist mode (i.e. the screen showing front / rear parking sensor / parking camera if you have those options) is enabled. As Part Assist is turned on by default and you have PIN 2 connected, when you've fitted the new switch, you will see the green LED illuminated. Now, you need PIN 1 also connected so you can switch off the Park Assist mode using the "P" button (and thus the annoying beep beep beep sound which is what you guys want to achieve now), then the green LED will be switched off accordingly.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mjsaville View Post
With your schematics I now have half a chance of resolving this. Now I need to work out how to get access to the A78 module. Looking at my first picture it looks like there are cables below the selector stick is that the A78 module?, wires shown circled in Red:
No, it is not, I'm borrowing a picture that I managed to find from the internet for which the ICM is clearly shown (sorry to steal the picture but as it is coming from another forum, I can't put a direct link here)



Quote:
Originally Posted by mjsaville View Post
Any idea what the BMW partno for the ICM cable is? I'm figuring if I get an old cable I can cannibalize a wire with the correct pins at each end?
You don’t need any part no. for this, it's just an ordinary cable that you need to make yourself. You would need to buy 2 bushing contacts like below and clamp them at the 2 ends of the cable (picture from internet):



To fit the clamped cable with bushing contact into the wiring loom at the console switch end, following this picture but ignore 1 and 2 as it was meant to pull the cable out of the plug. Instead, push the bushing contact into the plug after the blue plastic buckle is lifted (picture from internet):



Now the tricky part is how to get access to the ICM connector, it's not an easy task especially if you have a big hand. You can first try to access it from the up top, but if you can't, you will need to remove the rear air vent and the vent tubing and try to access from the rear (with a stretching long hand). After you've unplugged the connector, you should be able to insert the other end of the cable into the plug in a similar fashion (not exactly the same, but you'll figure out).
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      04-17-2017, 09:50 PM   #131
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After spending the weekend putting kms on the car for break-in I kept flicking between Sport and MDM mode.

I was wondering if it was possible to add F8X steering wheel controls and wire the M1 button to DSC button and M2 button to 'Sport' mode.

Would allow hands to stay of the wheel. I know it's not really a hassle to go finishing for the actual button but a consideration at least.
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      04-18-2017, 02:25 AM   #132
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwdd View Post
This is the expected behavior. Pin 2 (the yellow-blue wire) is the wire which makes the light illuminates when Park Assist mode (i.e. the screen showing front / rear parking sensor / parking camera if you have those options) is enabled. As Part Assist is turned on by default and you have PIN 2 connected, when you've fitted the new switch, you will see the green LED illuminated. Now, you need PIN 1 also connected so you can switch off the Park Assist mode using the "P" button (and thus the annoying beep beep beep sound which is what you guys want to achieve now), then the green LED will be switched off accordingly.



No, it is not, I'm borrowing a picture that I managed to find from the internet for which the ICM is clearly shown (sorry to steal the picture but as it is coming from another forum, I can't put a direct link here)





You don’t need any part no. for this, it's just an ordinary cable that you need to make yourself. You would need to buy 2 bushing contacts like below and clamp them at the 2 ends of the cable (picture from internet):



To fit the clamped cable with bushing contact into the wiring loom at the console switch end, following this picture but ignore 1 and 2 as it was meant to pull the cable out of the plug. Instead, push the bushing contact into the plug after the blue plastic buckle is lifted (picture from internet):



Now the tricky part is how to get access to the ICM connector, it's not an easy task especially if you have a big hand. You can first try to access it from the up top, but if you can't, you will need to remove the rear air vent and the vent tubing and try to access from the rear (with a stretching long hand). After you've unplugged the connector, you should be able to insert the other end of the cable into the plug in a similar fashion (not exactly the same, but you'll figure out).
Thanks very much for this, I also did a bit of digging on the internet last night. I'm off today, so will see if I can pull the alcantara around the handbrake and see if I can eyeball the ICM. I'll post back later...

MJ
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