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      07-16-2023, 10:30 PM   #1
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PSA Differential Plug Torque is 45 NM!!!

Hello everyone just thought I share my recent findings with my differential fluid change. Like the title, the differential drain and fill plugs are 45 NM as per ISTA. DO NOT TORQUE IT TO 60 NM like a lot of videos would instruct, I seen videos even saying 60 ftlbs.

My differential fluid has been changed twice since buying the car brand new in 2018. Once at the dealership for the break in service and once in 2021 when I did it myself. Back in 2021 I didn't have access to ISTA so I watched multiple videos and they mentioned 60 NM so I trusted the videos and torqued it to 60 NM. I just did my differential fluid tonight (The 3rd time) and when I was trying to get the fill plug in, it was impossible to thread on. I pulled the plug out and found that part of the aluminum thread on the differential side was jammed in the plug. Upon further inspection it is 100% the differential side thread on the outer side, the fill plug that came out is pristine. I was lucky that I didn't try to monkey force the plug in and it was on the outside, I probably will replace my differential cover in time if the gasket leaks. Picture below of the damaged thread piece from my fill port on my differential. Thought I share and maybe save a couple of other folks from messing up their differential threads.

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      07-17-2023, 12:30 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tes View Post
Hello everyone just thought I share my recent findings with my differential fluid change. Like the title, the differential drain and fill plugs are 45 NM as per ISTA. DO NOT TORQUE IT TO 60 NM like a lot of videos would instruct, I seen videos even saying 60 ftlbs.

My differential fluid has been changed twice since buying the car brand new in 2018. Once at the dealership for the break in service and once in 2021 when I did it myself. Back in 2021 I didn't have access to ISTA so I watched multiple videos and they mentioned 60 NM so I trusted the videos and torqued it to 60 NM. I just did my differential fluid tonight (The 3rd time) and when I was trying to get the fill plug in, it was impossible to thread on. I pulled the plug out and found that part of the aluminum thread on the differential side was jammed in the plug. Upon further inspection it is 100% the differential side thread on the outer side, the fill plug that came out is pristine. I was lucky that I didn't try to monkey force the plug in and it was on the outside, I probably will replace my differential cover in time if the gasket leaks. Picture below of the damaged thread piece from my fill port on my differential. Thought I share and maybe save a couple of other folks from messing up their differential threads.

Attachment 3230439
Sorry to hear about that man, but this is also why I personally never watch YouTube for diy advice, because 90% of the time these YouTubers going off the top of their head for instructions. Or relying on generic info which may not apply to BMWs - like using anti-seize on spark plugs.

So I always follow ISTA.
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Last edited by F87source; 07-17-2023 at 05:27 AM.. Reason: I realized I sounded way to harsh to YouTube diyers.
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      07-17-2023, 04:56 AM   #3
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I’m inclined to reply as I feel personally attacked lol, in all seriousness, my video also states 60Nm; I didn’t have access to ISTA at the time and was ‘new to the game’. I apologize and will pin a comment stating that it should be torqued to 45Nm instead of 60Nm.
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      07-17-2023, 05:23 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HunterHofman View Post
I’m inclined to reply as I feel personally attacked lol, in all seriousness, my video also states 60Nm; I didn’t have access to ISTA at the time and was ‘new to the game’. I apologize and will pin a comment stating that it should be torqued to 45Nm instead of 60Nm.
Huh strange I didn't know your numbers were wrong, I didn't mean you (there A lot of other YouTubers I'm referring to out there, in particular the ones that load up their spark plugs with anti-seize and gap it down to 0.018" on a stock car. Big yikes because the bmw specific spark plugs like ngk or Bosch have plating on their threads which prevent seizing and bmw says never to use anti seize as it can leak onto the tip of the plug fouling it and causing misfire, or act as a torque multiplier and cause you to strip the threads. Also gapping down for no reason isn't ideal as it can cause misfires and rough running due to incomplete combustion) - because normally we talk about diy's and you get all your numbers right. I haven't really seen anything that you put out that is blatantly wrong, the only thing I had to nit pick was your jack stand placement lol.

Otherwise you and faarkle put out good content. There are others that have a decent viewership that dont.
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      07-17-2023, 08:57 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HunterHofman View Post
I’m inclined to reply as I feel personally attacked lol, in all seriousness, my video also states 60Nm; I didn’t have access to ISTA at the time and was ‘new to the game’. I apologize and will pin a comment stating that it should be torqued to 45Nm instead of 60Nm.
It's all good. I didn't want to blame it on individuals so I didn't mention any names. And TBH it wasn't just you and I did see some conflicting paperwork from BMW dealerships also stating 60 NM on a F80 forum. Anyway it is completely understandable everyone is just trying to help each other with DIYs, just part of the risk of DIY'in in the first place. Appreciate you pinning a comment
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      07-17-2023, 11:59 AM   #6
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Dammit I literally just did a diff flush last week with the wrong trq specs. Ty for this info
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      07-17-2023, 03:13 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F87Tomei View Post
Dammit I literally just did a diff flush last week with the wrong trq specs. Ty for this info
If you have a quick jack or something and can get to it easily. I would loosen it and retighten to 45 NM. Won't lose any diff fluid and relatively easy to do and I'm sure O-ring will be fine without replacing either. But then again as far as I can see, my car experienced the first documented damage, I'm sure you are fine at 60 NM considering how many people been torquing to 60 NM.
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      07-17-2023, 03:22 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tes View Post
If you have a quick jack or something and can get to it easily. I would loosen it and retighten to 45 NM. Won't lose any diff fluid and relatively easy to do and I'm sure O-ring will be fine without replacing either. But then again as far as I can see, my car experienced the first documented damage, I'm sure you are fine at 60 NM considering how many people been torquing to 60 NM.
Imo it's too late, the damage has been done. If you torqued it to 60 NM the strain has already been out on the threads and it's likely to have already permanently deformed and fatigued. So loosening it and retorquing it won't make a difference except add another load cycle to the threads for no reason. Imo just leave it till next diff oil change.
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      07-17-2023, 03:57 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F87source View Post
Imo it's too late, the damage has been done. If you torqued it to 60 NM the strain has already been out on the threads and it's likely to have already permanently deformed and fatigued. So loosening it and retorquing it won't make a difference except add another load cycle to the threads for no reason. Imo just leave it till next diff oil change.
So next diff change I’m basically going to have to buy a new diff cover I’m assuming since both the fill and drain plugs were both trq down to 60 nm.
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      07-17-2023, 04:48 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F87Tomei View Post
So next diff change I’m basically going to have to buy a new diff cover I’m assuming since both the fill and drain plugs were both trq down to 60 nm.
The threads are most likely stretched out and permanently deformed. But they might be able to be used at the proper torque specs for awhile longer. So I might hold off until I see the threads start to deteriorate, and once they do then switch the pan.
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      07-17-2023, 07:32 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F87source View Post
The threads are most likely stretched out and permanently deformed. But they might be able to be used at the proper torque specs for awhile longer. So I might hold off until I see the threads start to deteriorate, and once they do then switch the pan.
Yea that's a good point. Probably not worth at this point.

Quote:
Originally Posted by F87Tomei View Post
So next diff change I’m basically going to have to buy a new diff cover I’m assuming since both the fill and drain plugs were both trq down to 60 nm.
Yea I agree with F87source, if you don't find a piece of thread like me, probably fine to keep using it but just keep a close eye on it.

On the bright side, next time I do my diff fluid I'll make a whole DIY on how to change out the Diff cover LOL, I don't think it exists yet.
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      07-18-2023, 04:35 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F87source View Post
Sorry to hear about that man, but this is also why I personally never watch YouTube for diy advice, because 90% of the time these YouTubers going off the top of their head for instructions. Or relying on generic info which may not apply to BMWs - like using anti-seize on spark plugs.

So I always follow ISTA.
This is exactly what I mean by "bad youtuber advice" :




There literally could not be a worse example of absolute garbage youtube advice.
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      08-27-2023, 09:32 AM   #13
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I note that FCP Euro states the wrong torque spec (60 Nm instead of 45 Nm) on their listing for the diff drain/fill plug:
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...ial-drain-plug

Can the OP (or maybe F87source ) provide a snapshot of the ISTA torque spec so I can forward it to FCP Euro so they can correct their listing? I'm guessing if I just shoot from the hip and tell 'em they have the wrong spec, that might not go so well?
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      08-27-2023, 02:34 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jefe2000 View Post
I note that FCP Euro states the wrong torque spec (60 Nm instead of 45 Nm) on their listing for the diff drain/fill plug:
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...ial-drain-plug

Can the OP (or maybe F87source ) provide a snapshot of the ISTA torque spec so I can forward it to FCP Euro so they can correct their listing? I'm guessing if I just shoot from the hip and tell 'em they have the wrong spec, that might not go so well?
https://f87.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...&postcount=283

It's 45nm because they specify 5az.
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      08-27-2023, 03:27 PM   #15
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Perfect, that’s exactly the sort of reference I hoped for. I’ve forwarded it onward to FCP Euro. Hopefully they’ll update the listing.
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      09-04-2023, 09:49 AM   #16
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Thanks guys for sharing the proper torque for the fill and drain plugs. I just performed the 50k mile diff fluid change this morning and was glad I found this thread. YT has been invaluable to help me DIY but I always cross reference this forum.
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      09-05-2023, 05:53 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jefe2000 View Post
Perfect, that’s exactly the sort of reference I hoped for. I’ve forwarded it onward to FCP Euro. Hopefully they’ll update the listing.
Just checked it, and it still shows the incorrect value.
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      09-06-2023, 11:56 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CSBM5 View Post
Just checked it, and it still shows the incorrect value.
Yeah, their first response was to ask if I was getting my torque units mixed up:

Quote:
Perhaps there is some confusion in regard to the unit of measure. The correct standard measurement is listed at 44 lb-ft, but in NM you would be looking at a measurement of 60. If you feel this to be untrue, please contact service@fcpeuro.com with your VIN and we would be happy to check further.
So I’ve been trading a few further emails with them to clarify. We’re still getting to the bottom of it.
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      09-07-2023, 09:41 PM   #19
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Quick question, how often to change diff oil and transmission oil?
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      09-07-2023, 10:03 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ericlr1225 View Post
Quick question, how often to change diff oil and transmission oil?
I have seen a number of recommendations between 20k and 50k (miles), but I do not think that there is a general consensus yet.

I am at 34k miles and plan to do both soon and send the oil for analysis to Blackstone Labs to get objective data on the current state of the oil, I can share the data here if there is interest.
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      09-07-2023, 10:17 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by c0riolis View Post
I have seen a number of recommendations between 20k and 50k (miles), but I do not think that there is a general consensus yet.

I am at 34k miles and plan to do both soon and send the oil for analysis to Blackstone Labs to get objective data on the current state of the oil, I can share the data here if there is interest.
Driving style counts too. If you track your car or just put it around town.
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      09-07-2023, 11:19 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F87source View Post
Driving style counts too. If you track your car or just put it around town.
For sure. The problem is that there is not much data for either of those.
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